rfolster

Heather, as you can see, opinions and suggestions run a wide range, so let me try to give you a few different things to think about to either help or hinder! Grab a snack and a drink, it's a long one!!! Your current boat is stable, but slow. This is a common combination, and you should understand that, for the most part, a faster boat will be less stable than you are used to. However, with a little bit of practice and patience, you should get used to it. Therefore, when demoing boats, don't let any feelings of twitchiness or instability affect your decisions too much. This is just a natural step of the development process as a paddler. You have done a lot of overnight camping trips already (assuming in the Sedna?), so any boat with an equal or larger storage capacity will suffice for continuing overnight trips. If you are looking to more extended trips, the only extra room you might need is for the additional food, water, and maybe an extra change of clothing. That will not take up much additional room compared to the amount of gear that is always needed for ANY camping trip, whether it is for one night or many. Even just an upgrade to a more packable tent or sleeping bag can offset the additional space needed. Generally speaking, going to a 16+' boat from your current 15' will probably have more storage space. You are looking for a boat that is "pretty fast" - but to the people on this forum, that can mean many different things. Are you just comparing to the Sedna, which is probably making it hard to keep up with other paddlers, or do you want to really cover some miles!! If you are just looking to go faster than the Sedna, then most any longer and/or narrower sea kayak will suffice. There is also differences in hull configurations that can get pretty technical, but basically a boat with a greater taper from the bow to the cockpit should be faster. Boats with vertical or "plumb" bow (think butter knife front) like many of the Rockpool boats, will really slice through the water and be a very fast boat, but with that high speed comes some sacrifice of maneuverability. Some might argue this, and say they can maneuver their boats just fine, but it is basic boat design physics. You ask for a boat that is "pretty stable", but that again is perception. If you want a boat faster than the Sedna, it will be less stable. The question you need to ask yourself is, how much less stability are you willing to work with in order to get the speed you want? As I said before, you should be able to get used to it, but it is just a matter of how much effort and time you want to put it. Ruddered boats is a big area of controversy. Many sea kayakers view boats with rudders as "cheater" boats, or for the less-experienced paddlers. That is, until you get into specialized boats like surf skis, then rudders are ok? My thoughts about rudders (and skegs) are that they are a tool. Period. Different tools have different uses. Boats with rudders generally need them to turn because their design does not lend towards turning the boat just by leaning or "edging". I would suggest you look further into what the differences are, how each work and why. Then make a decision on whether or not you want to stick with a rudder. My only advise is,, don't just stick with something because you are used to it. I will combine the ruggedness (dragging over rocks) with weight, as it is a mixed conversation. Basically, plastic is most rugged (nearly indestructible aside from warping), and typically heaviest (although can be similar weight to some "expedition" fiberglass boats with additional coats of glass and resin). Carbon fiber is stiff, but brittle and challenging to repair, but also the lightest. Fiberglass is most common, being a little lighter (in general) to plastic, a little flexible (but can develop cosmetic spider cracks), and relatively easy to repair. I don't recommend plastic because of the weight and speed (sorry everyone, but I believe that, taking direct comparisons, plastic is slower than fiberglass or carbon). I would also be against carbon fiber for you because you don't want to be dragging that over rocks. One option is to get a "50/50" which has fiberglass bottom and carbon fiber top, but that is typically a custom-ordered boat and might be hard to come by right now. I don't think you will go wrong with an all fiberglass boat. Overall, I think your budget is fine, unless you start looking at brand new custom-built 50/50s or expedition layups. Other options like custom colors, sparkles, or a select number of manufacturers can add to the expense. Buying a used boat has the advantage of getting something that you can easily sell again if it just doesn't work out for you, typically near the same value you paid, or at least for less than the cost of renting a couple of times. You can always opt to sell and buy a new version if you fall in love with the model. Sorry this is so long, but hopefully it was a little educational. Don't be afraid to continue reaching out to the club for help. Many people have been willing (at least pre-pandemic, and probably will soon again) to let others try out boats to get a feel for them, so it never hurts to at least ask. This is especially true if someone might be thinking of selling their current boat.

Welcome back!! Just so you know, as a Guest you are welcome to post to the General Message Board, and Classifieds forums, as well as view the Trips and Trip Reports Forums, but won't be able to post to them or use the Private Message system. If you would like to reactivate your full membership ($15 for twelve months), please let me know by posting here or send an email to membership@nspn.org and I will have the system generate a renewal email for you to.

I want to make sure that we are getting terminology and concepts right. What exactly do you mean by "tiedown" straps? You definitely need straps to hold a kayak to whatever transport system you are incorporating, whether it is foam blocks, j-bars, cradle feet, etc. If you are asking about whether or not to use a bed-rack with mounting system vs just laying the boat on the cab roof and tail gate using only straps and padding, you are better off with the bed-rack since you put less stress on the boat and the truck and it is more secure. You will want something to protect the boat from the bars, since two hard objects against each other will cause damage to the softer object (your boat!). J-hook support systems are popular, but since they hold the boat on its side, they create the highest overall height, and not ideal for taller vehicles like your truck/rack. Cradle-style feet (like on the car in the above pictures) will support the boat well, and can be used on your truck rack. The only downside is that they hold the boat top-side up, and so the bow and stern will create high points to be aware of. This is also true with the foam blocks (seen on the truck), but they tend to be less expensive than the cradle feet and less bar-shape specific (round / square / oval). I have even seen "pool noodles" put over rack bars as a cushion, but keep in mind that they are not made for that purpose, and so effetiveness and lifespan will need to be taken into consideration. If you are able to manage it, mounting the boats upside down (as mbhazeltine) suggested using foam blocks on the bed-rack will offer the lowest overall height. The boat topsides are also flatter than the bottom sides, so you get more support upside down than right side up. What you need to watch out for is that the bow of the boats may curve down enough to hit the cab of the truck, which would be bad. You would need a tall enough rack to prevent that from happening. Hopefully this will help you understand that the actual truck bed rack you choose, whether it is the Bakflip CS carrier or some other brand of rack, doesn't matter as much as what mounting system you want to secure the boats to the rack. You should consider that first, and then decide if the rack you want will work with it.

Short answer.... Yes. Walden Pond sessions have struggled in the past years due to overcrowding of the parking lot, so those sessions tend to be more sporadic, but still a long-time favorite due to its location and history. Chebacco Lake sessions typically start mid-May to early June, depending on weather and water temperatures. There are occasional algae blooms to keep us away, but tends to be rare. There have also been some salt-water-based practice sessions held around the Portsmouth area (if I remember correctly), which has lot's of sheltered water to play in, as well as opportunities to explore open water. I don't see any overwhelming reasons why these sessions couldn't run again this summer, albeit there will be the potential conundrum of vaccinated and unvaccinated people commingling together, so I would expect social distancing protocols to remain in effect at least into the summer. My recommendations would be to keep an eye on the Trips forum as well as the calendar for posted sessions as they get scheduled.

Dan, I took the liberty of changing the title of the post to reflect your change of plans. I hope that is OK.

Quite a paddle, Andy! The "relive" video-map thing is pretty cool.

Sent you an email just now, so you can follow up with me through that.

The current list of COVID-19 lower-risk states and territories includes: Hawaii Missouri Oregon Puerto Rico Washington

Could be a membership issue, since non-members can read the trips forum, but not respond. If you want to PM the member name to me, I can have a look into it.

i believe Rick Crangle has done this. Might be worth reaching out to him.

I think it comes down to who is creating the tide predictions. NOAA does not have any predictions for the Narrows, but Canada does, probably because it is part of the greater Canadian waterways of Passamaquoddy & Fundy. Since St. John is the closest major port, all tide predictions are based on that. Another indicator of this is to look at the chart depths. Most NOAA charts are in feet, but the couple of that include Canadian waters have soundings in Meters. Want to guess where they might be getting the bulk of their chart data from?

Just got an email from Snapdragon confirming that they have shut down. They are hoping to partner with another manufacturer, but nothing firm yet. Let's hope that they can, so don't count them out just yet.

Alex, there was an issue with your automatic renewal not being applied. I will let tech support know to fix it, but in the meantime, I have given you the access you need to use the forums.

Joe, you have come a long way from that cold and windy morning on Devereaux Beach not so long ago. I know that you have worked hard for it - Good job!!

The NSPN Board of Directors is looking for new members and invites you to join us for 2021. The BOD is the decision-making body of the club. Our role is reviewing ongoing club business (finances, membership, website, etc.), managing workshops and club events, creating policies, and guiding the overall direction of the club. Aside from three officer positions, there are no set duties associated with individual BOD positions. Currently we meet once a month, generally on a Tuesday evening, from September through May. Meetings are on Zoom - you can join us from anywhere! We do enjoy socializing and aim to meet a few times a year in-person (COVID-permitting) but the majority of the work can be done virtually. All NSPN members are welcome and eligible to apply (must have active membership), with any paddling experience or length of club membership. We are looking for members with a desire to make NSPN the best club it can be! If you are interested in joining us, or know someone who might be, please email robert@NSPN.org. Please include a quick note explaining your interest in joining, and send it our way by Dec 1. Please feel free to contact any of us directly with questions or ideas. We look forward to a great year of paddling in 2021. - Jane, Janet, Mike, Rob and Sue

I prefer not to wear extra layers of clothing to sleep in since it is probably the coldest part of the day when you are ready to shed your cozy sleeping gear and venture out of the tent. For that reason, I want to be adding "portable layers" to compensate for the "sleeping layers" being left behind. But, to each their own. My suggestion would be to start with getting either a bag liner or a blanket (down or synthetic is a completely separate argument) or both. I have found this to be an ideal sleep system for me that allows for adjustment throughout the camping season. Between a bag liner, a blanket, and a moderate sleeping bag, I can have multiple combinations that fit a wide range of temperatures. The liner and blanket don't take up any more room than a warmer sleeping bag would, and costs much less than buying a separate shoulder-season bag.

Use the Browse tab at the top of the forum, and it is the left-most option underneath the tab bar.

Temporary access Is being provided to David while his membership is being reinstated (still having issues with PayPal), so feel free to PM if you wish. Edit - membership issue resolved!

The whole area inside of Pierce Island and New Castle is very protected from the Piscataqua and well suited for many recreational boaters, as long as they keep their distance from the river. This is one of the first places Cathy and I went when we started kayaking (actually rented here a couple of times) and it is where we got interested in ocean kayaking. It is entirely possible that something happened in these “calmer” waters (still challenging in high winds) and the empty kayak was taken by wind and tide to Wood Island where it was found. it is a sad and unfortunate outcome, and my heart goes out to his family and friends.

I would say, from personal experience, that fears about tipping over and not getting back up are NOT irrational! However, while I will agree that learning to roll is an incredibly valuable skill, I place just as much value on bracing to prevent needing a roll and re-entry for when a roll fails. I just feel that, too often, the idea of learning how to roll is seen as an be-all-end-all of skills with others being put down as lesser.

This is, in my opinion, the most important part of the conversation. There is NO kayak that will prevent you from having a harrowing experience in a storm along the Maine coast, but skill will make the situation better. If you choose a kayak based on where your skills are now, your skills will remain where they are. If you are willing to "grow" into a more capable boat, you will learn quickly and be happier with the results. My suggestion would be to renew your membership and take advantage of as many lake sessions, skills sessions, or professional trainings, all of which can help you work on your stability and bracing. This is a critical first step in getting comfortable in any sea kayak, and will have a profound affect on which boat you choose next. Who knows, maybe you will be back in an explorer before you know it!

Actually, the recommendation for hot packs was specifically in research for Man O'War, which happens to not to be a jelleyfish. However, I got the impression that vinegar will work for most, if not all, jelleyfish stings, and the researchers are trying to get information out that it will work well for the Man O'War as well, and therefore a unified approach to any jelleyfish-like creature could be utilized.

Might be worth packing a bottle of vinegar in the boat if paddling the warmer waters of the southern NE coastline. New research has identified that vinegar is best at neutralizing the toxins. They also state to NOT rinse with salt water, as that seems to just spread the micro-stingers and increase the reaction. If you can have some sort of heat pack as well (there are some reusable gel heat packs on the market), those might help as well to reduce swelling after stingers are removed (need gloves to remove). Without getting mired in rescue-scenario details, based on the individual's reactions to the sting, I would follow up with an immediate evacuation, either return to the put-in, the nearest populated landing (for readily-gained assistance), or possibly call for a May-Day if chest pains or shortness of breath ensue. Basically, the individual should be gotten off the water and seek some level of medical attention, even if just simple home remedies will suffice.

Could be a kink in the cable right at the skeg, so I would suggest starting to look there. Might also loosen the cable at the control knob and see if the knob itself is sticking. Beyond that, I am at a loss. Others may have further insight, so feel free to update this thread with your findings.

There is probably a problem with the slider system, since you shouldn’t need that much leverage to move it. Slider should move easily with the push of a finger. I would investigate the system and see if there are any kinks in the cable or if the sleeve is binding somewhere. Also check that the sled itself is not binding.