risingsn

Here is a trip that is currently on going. It is called the Vacation to Hell & is sponsored by IR. This years trip is from Baffin Island to Ellesmere. As I remember it their is a sixty mile open crossing, I know its not the Pacific, but their are no polar bears in the Pacific. Then their is a 50 mile portage across a glacier. Of course all unsupported. Team Sweetwater has consists of 4 paddlers, one each from Switzerland, The UK, Tenn, & FL. Here is the url http://devon.irvacationtohell.com/ Enjoy!

skin on frame...got it. thanks

Hmm, I'm not so sure. Carbon is a great conductor so if anything it might facilitate a strike. I always, jokingly, tell students that in a T storm they should find a paddler with a long carbon paddle. I wouldn't want to put my hands in the water on either side of the boat. This creates a path (up one arm, through the body, & down the other)for the current to follow if it is traveling through the water. My 2 cents

Sorry, but an SOF is...?

The helmet I use is made by Cascade, their primary business is hockey helmets. If you look them up on the web you will find a link to their kayak helmets. It is very comfortable & secure & provides full ear protection. I got mine with a removable face mask (long story). It wasn't cheap, but I know too many people that have had head trama & its not a good thing. Their was an artical in Sea Kayaker ( I think) which delt with a white water paddler that died of a blow to the forehead even though he had a helmet on. The conclusion was that his helmet had a built in visor & the force of the water lifted the helmet high enough off of his forehead that he could take the hit. Built in visor might not be a good idea. If I were to buy a helmet today I would get one manufactured by a company in Australia...unfortunatly I don't remember their name. It is the same company that makes the helmet that John Carmity wears (John, this is where you jump in of you reading) When it comes to helmet I wouldn't by based on price.

...no PFD, no helmet, no comment

OK, I have two tow rigs. My first was an NDK, your basic rope in a bag w/ a velcro closure, a big mouth & a web belt like most. This spring I bought a Palm Ocean Tow ( www.palmequipmentusa.com/acatalog/accessories.html#aPLM_2dS470 ). This unit is has a smaller bag but the line is the same length as my NDK. This is an updated model, the old one only had 21' of 1/2 inch wedding. The best part of this rig is the belt, it is padded. Also the binner attaches to the outside of the belt so it is always available & you don't have to open the binner to get it off the belt, just pull & its in you hand & ready to go. Their is no float (a good thing for my$) but the line & rig floats. The only draw back is that it has a small mouth so will take a minute or so to reload, when I'm done with a tow I just stick all of the line in my PFD. My second choice would be the North Water rig.

Hi Phil, I have used them w/ teaching rolling. The problem with them for this use is that it would have to be stored on deck for quick access & take up a lot of room. I prefer nothing on my deck. That would also be one (but not the most important) of my objections to the 'roll aid'.

Ah yes...'common sense', but then again, 'common sense is not very common' these days.

...and here is the test. Capsize, wet exit, hold on to your boat & paddle, oh and then put on your PFD

Daisy chaining... OK I'll jump in. I have 2 tow rigs (NDK & Palm), both w/ 40' of line. I start my daisy chain some where in the middle working back toward the belt ending @ the shock bungie. I make it short enough so that the bow of the victim is about 3'-4' off my stern. It is secured w/ a SS biner which is tied to the end of the line. This allows me to simply reach back @ any time & pop the biner to go from a short tow to full length. Out of curiosity, who manufactured the failed tow rig?

I do agree that the 3 has style over the Matrix. I'm looking for a little more room & MPGs. Thanks for the help guys.

Hi Joe, A quick side note. I was planning on a Matrix & am surprised to hear that the Mazda 3 gets 31 mpg. Is that measured or EPA. Thanks, Chuck

So here is may take on the forward stroke... it is the most difficult stroke to master. I came to this conclusion after taking a class w/ Karen Knight & Bob Foot about 8 years ago. During the class she related an incident in one of her classes for "experienced" guides, she asked them (about 10) to demonstrate a forward stroke w/ body rotation. None could do it. I have been working on it ever since. Two years ago @ the Sweet Water Symposium I was fortunate enough to get a private lesson w/ Jan Kleck, an L5 coach out of San Diego. This lesson was for a high angle stroke but should work for all, just adjust the level of your hand. One thing that she said was that you arms just connect your body to the paddle, nothing else. I plant the blade in the water (quietly, very big w/ Karen Knight), from their it is all body rotation, my high hand crosses in my line of sight parellel to the water. Watch your paddle & you will see that the blade stays perpendicular to your boat. It was a quantum leap for me. Next step was the Core Paddling coarse that Ben Lawry teaches, another quantum leap. We can chat about this all day & watch videos but until some one w/ great experience can place your hands in the proper position on the paddle & show you step by step how you body should unwind it will be almost impossible to put it together. My advice, contact Ben ( www.seacliffkayakers.com ). Well, there is my 2 cents ($3.95 w/ inflation)

Thats why I carry my tow belt bag in front of me...

I'm for the bungee, I can feel the give that it provides in the bumpy stuff. I use a SS biner that I got @ West marine to release my daisey chain, it is secured to the lop on the bungee. with nylon cord, so that I don't loose it. I have had to release it in bumpy stuff & it works for me.

This is the cow tail that I use it has a fast tex (sp) buckle for a quick release. www.virginiaseakayakcenter.com

Jon, That's super, I appreciate it. I also like the biner in the photo since it will not allow the line to slip out of the gate.

Josh, congrats on getting your rack sorted. Now the most important thing is to use it (alot).

no comment

Naturally, to each his own. The Thule bars are rated to 165#. I have had over 220# on mine, enough to cause my roof to deflect.

It is important to remember that if you activate a strobe @ night you will night blind all of the paddlers in your group. I'm on the 4th season with my ARC light, its on my PFD & always gets a salt bath when I'm on the water. Still works for me. I do rinse it after every trip along w/ the rest of my kit.

The OB will probably take Thule 52" bars which will easily take 2 sea boats on Set2gos. Your head should be safe.