scamlin

I'm curious what happened to the Traverso Award. For new members, it has been given for many years to the most improved NSPN member. It was named for Jim Traverso, a club member who lost his life leading a white water trip in Nepal in 1999. See http://www.nols.edu/alumni/leader/00winter..._00winter.shtml for Jim's biography. See http://www.nspn.org/forum/index.php?showto...amp;hl=traverso for Traverso Award mention from last year. Scott

Like John, Nick and others, I'm satisfied Pentax Optio WR owner, three seasons in and out of water. Size and waterproofness are the winners. The lens on these cameras is entirely internal, so it disappears in the PFD pocket. Chief complaint is a noticeable shutter lag (common to this class of camera). Low light sensitivity could be better and the lack of a viewfinder is a disadvantage in sunlight. You get used to these limitations. For any waterproof electronics, remember to apply silicone grease sparingly to the rubber seal once or twice a season; it will extend the gasket and your camera's life significantly. You can get it at camera specialty stores. Scott

Bethany: When are you going to get her into a kayak? She sounds trained and ready.... Do the video, seriously! I'd like to see it. Scott

Phil: Actually, the quickest method is to rinse them in the ocean! Yes, it's salt water, but has a lot lower concentration of salt than the repeatedly layers of dried salt that builds up over the day. You'll have spots, but not the thick crust. Can't take your hands off the paddle to swish the glasses in the water? Do a roll or grab onto a partner's bow and dunk face first. Probably a good idea to have a retainer strap to keep from losing them. Same trick works for GoreTex paddle jackets or drysuits, particularly on multi-day paddles where there is not time. The salt build up compromises the breathability of the fabric; a rinse in the ocean removes most of it. Or you could try the Rain-X and report back whether it works. I'm sure many on this message board would appreciate the research. Scott

Bill: Can you recommend an optimal photo resolution that will balance good detail with economizing on storage space on the site? Scott

Ernie: Here's a rough and abbreviated translation from the Norwegian. Not much help.... "I haven’t paddled the boats referred, so what I say below is speculation based on what I’ve read. I’m going to buy a NKD Explorer someday. I’d really like to get some opinions comparing the Romany with the Romany Surf. From the specs, it’s better for larger paddlers and surfs better, if paddles somewhat slower on the flat. It’s a Romany but as a new boat, does it have the well known Romany qualities on the water? It’s an interesting boat since the Romany Surf comes in plastic for those of us who are rough on our boats. [Lots of handling questions follow such as is it easy to learn in as the Romany, as easy to roll, etc.] I’m looking for the security and handling that the Romany is know for, but can’t fit into the Romany. __________ I can’t comment since I haven’t paddled the Romany Surf. The nearest boat to what you describe is the Romany HV. Both the Romany and Explorer surf well, so I’d expect the Surf to be good also, perhaps better at surfing. Why do you want plastic? NDK boats are very solid and made to land on stones. ________________ My next planned purchase is a glass Explorer. I’m interested in the Surf out of curiosity and because I’d buy it for the lower price for a friend who is buying it as a first boat. For me, a plastic boat would make sense to try it out with the idea of selling it if I didn’t want it. It’s easier to sell a low cost boat. _________ I called the kayak shop and Bert told me the following: The Romany is a better all-round boat. It is 54 cm in the beam while the Suf is 56 cm. In reflecting waves, the Romany will feel livelier than the Surf. It is a bit faster than the Surf. The Surf surfs better than the Romany but it will be experienced as a more specialized product. It was developed from the Romany designed for heavier and larger paddlers (the Romany HV/Posiden). ___________ I have both the Explorer HV and the Romany HV. The Explorer is faster and accelerates fantastic. I bought the Explorer when I realized that the Romany was too heavy and slow. So I have a Romany HV for sale—or I’ll use it for surfing—but I think the Explorer is really great. So my tip is to buy an Explorer so you have a kayak that is fast, surfs good and has enough room to pack your stuff for trips.

The standard NDK backband attachment is to the seat supports, not the hull. So there is no need to seal the bolt: just unbolt the old backband, slip on the new backband and retighten the bolt. As for the bungie, most Explorers have a small stainless steel loop bolted to the bulkhead behind the seat. Just clip or tie the bungie for the new backband to it. If for some reason it is missing, pick up one at a marine store (such as West Marine) with some stainless bolts and nuts. In this case you might want to put a bit of sealant on the bolt, but the water leakage is negligible if you don't. Scott

Ed: It wasn't bells and whistles (not sure why you'd assume that) as it had pretty standard features. Not sure of the others, but for me it was the JIS7 waterproof rating, lithium battery and the small size. Scott

I agree with Suz and others: for electronic gear in salt water, it's just a matter of time. My rinse technique is sloshing gently in clean water, blowing the water out of the speaker and letting it air dry. One tip: regularly apply silicone grease to all rubber gaskets-like several times a season. Makes a better seal and preserves the rubber. Some manuals say to replace the gasket once a year; you decide. You can get a small tube of silicone at photo specialty shops or online (though the shipping is often more than the product). Scott

I'm getting into this thread late, but the one time I paddled a WS Tempest 170, it was in almost identical conditions: gusty winds in excess of 20 KTS with a sharp chop. The boat was almost empty. I too found the boat hard to control in beam to quartering winds: the lee cocking was significant. I think there is something about the boat in these specific conditions. Other similar boats can react the same way. My old Necky Arluk III, also with a high foredeck and low afterdeck, almost took me out to sea at Blue Rocks in Nova Scotia in 1999. Same scenario: winds over 20 KTS, empty boat, excessive leecocking. It was early in my paddling career; at that point, the only way I could figure out how turn around was to accelerate backwards and use edging and momentum to get around. These incidents make a serious point: even if it happens only once every few years, uncontrollable leecocking can be dangerous in an offshore wind. In the Gulf of Maine, strong offshore winds show up every time a cold front blows through followed by strong NW winds. If you can't turn around, your only alternative to a long ride offshore is to paddle backwards all the way home. Scott

Motorboats start using Fox Creek and the canal as soon as they are on the water. Like kayakers, they will go through to Essex Bay anytime above the half tide. I've seen them slalom through the upper creek at speed. Not a reason to avoid Fox Creek, but a reason to keep a heads up and particularly in the high grass between Castle Neck and Essex Bay, keep to the side of the channel. Yes, the lower the tide, the less likely a motor boat, but not a reason to let your guard down. Scott

The CG's rationale is that the various carriers do not implement *CG consistently and can get confused which CG station to route the call to. It adds time to sort it all out. The exception is Alaska where the CG stations do have a coordinated system and are maintaining *CG cell phone service. The CG suggests boaters who use cell phones dial 911, which is better organized to route the call to the appropriate CG. Of course, the best way to contact the CG is via VHF radio on Channel 16. Radio also has the advantage over cell phones: distress calls are heard by any other boaters in the area, who also may be able to come to your aid. Scott

Brian: I think the theory is that a stiffer hull has speed benefits for both acceleration AND once at cruising speed. In both cases, flexing of the hull is asorbing the paddler's energy instead of transmitting it to forward motion. I could also imagine that flexing could create more distortions in hull shape and therefore more turbulence and drag. In these senses, kevlar and glass hulls that come out of the same mold may not act the same in the water. Granted the differences are small (as both Impex and Leslie pointed out) but over the long haul, may add up. One practical demonstration of the effects is that racing boats are not only very light, they are very stiff. Same theory as for for bike frames, which are also very stiff. Rather than dismiss out of hand the effect on stroke follow through, I'd be curious what the rationale is. Scott

Any equipment can fail--cradles, bars and straps/ropes and, yes, even the tie down points for bow and stern lines. One difference with any J-type cradles is that the strap usually attaches only to the J-cradle itself. Cradles or bars that route the strap under the bar are probably more secure, other things being equal. Another issue with J racks is that it is possible to cinch down the boat, but find that road jiggling rotates the hull to another angle in the J-rack which needs a shorter length strap to stay tightened. In other words, points on the hull bridge points in the J-rack to start, but the vibration settles the hull deeper into the rack which makes the strap too loose. Happened to me twice when I was using Malone racks: in one sense operator error, but easy enough to do since the boat seemed tightly secure (even shook the car with the boat). The good news as others have pointed out is that the bulge of the boat in the middle makes is difficult for the boat to slip out lengthwise. Whether you use bow and stern tie downs or not, you really need to think through the attachment of the bar to the vehicle and--as Mike points out--inspect all the components (strap, cradle, bar) and test the setup every time. Scott

Brad: If your rack dents a plastic hull, you're probably tightening the strap too much. It merely needs to be a bit snug, not a death grip. With the friction of the rack and the shape of the boat, it's not going to slip out even at highway speeds. Scott

Thought you might be interested in the thoughts of Chris Cunningham, editor of Sea Kayaker Magazine, who faced a similar situation: http://www.seakayakermag.com/2007/07e-news...pril/meddle.htm Scott

Jason: On one of his visits to NSPN about 6 or 7 years ago, Derek confirmed that he had never built--much less tested--such a device and neither did he know anyone who had done so. Just an idea he had.... Scott

Ben: The old Standard Horizon 460SX units take a battery case for backup AA power, but when you use them, you lose the waterproof rating. Make sure to check any unit you consider that it remains waterproof. Scott

Here's a tip if you want to paddle in cold water. REI is having it's annual 20% off one item sale. If you've been eyeing an expensive drysuit or paddling jacket, this could be the time to get it. (Assumes stock sizes fit you.) If you're an REI member, you can apply your rebate as well. http://www.rei.com/index.jsp?cm_ven=email&...v1_gm&id=header Follow the link below to the Kokotat gear where they have full drysuits with relief zippers for both men and women. Note the cheaper TROPOS Super Nova suits are not fully waterproof. If you can't swing a drysuit, the Action Jacket is my favorite: the GoreTex breathes well, the latex gaskets keep your arms dry and the neck opens to ventilate. Very versitle and comfortable. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?sto...0&query=kokotat I have no interest in REI other than being a member for 35 years. Scott

Peter: I've been using Reliance water jugs for years while backpacking and kayaking. They're cheap, rugged, easy to carry, easy to fill, convenient to pour and collapse for storage. They stand up full or partially full. Two 2.5 gallon jugs fit nicely side-by-side in my rear hatch up against the bulkhead. http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...00226&langId=-1 Downsides? The spigots occasionally open slightly and leak in the hatch if I'm careless. After a season or two, the plastic begins to give the water a plastic taste. And after many seasons, they will eventually crack. But for $6.95 apiece, you can replace them. Scott

Ed: While some people seek WFA training to get BCU/ACA certifications, that was not the intent or result of the two previous WFA training sessions arranged by NSPN (SOLO in 2002 and WMA in 2004). The target audience was current and prospective NSPN trip leaders (though First Aid training has never been a requirement of NSPN trip leaders). About three dozen NSPNers took the WFA/CPR training in 2002 and 2004 (many twice). Only a tiny percentage of NSPN trip leaders or WFA participants have ever pursued a commercial instructor/guide career (even part time), so your assumption that WFA courses are only appropriate or of interest to professionals has not been the case at NSPN. You point that basic First Aid training (such as WFA) can be dangerous in the wrong hands is valid but I think misleading in this case. I took both WFA courses and remember their central message: you are not qualified to make judgments about the medical status of patients, so get them to qualified medical facilities. If I remember the material correctly, the standard of care was based on what you needed to stablize a patient for up to two hours until medical help was available. That's it, no heroics three days from civilization. I personally benefited from the full WFA/CPR courses and have applied specific instructions that were probably beyond a 4-hour course. Since the 2004 course, I've drawn on the course for a sprained knee (fall on a beach in Marblehead on an NSPN trip), fractured neck (fall down a stair at a family event) and vasodilation and unconsciousness after a spinal impact (a fall while hiking in the White Mountains). In all three cases, the First Aid was stabilization until the patient could be seen by a medical person (physician, ER and radiologist and Wilderness EMT followed by personal physican, respectively). In each case, the full WFA training reinforced the need to seek medical attention even though the patient in each case said they were fine. And in each case, I quickly remembered what to do because we had practiced repeatedly in realistic hands-on scenarios only possible in an extended course. My point is that while a WFA course doesn't guarantee good judgment, it has a better chance of developing it than ignorance. I'd much rather have all my fellow paddlers with WFA training than paddlers who have no training or just CPR. So, yes, it is appropriate for NSPN to arrange for WFA training and encourage all paddlers, not just trip leaders or SNG organizers, to take it. I'd be interested in taking a full WFA course arranged by NSPN. I agree with David that WFA had the better offering, though it may have been the particular instructor. I don't intend to start a long thread or debate, just want to offer some club history and support the current club leadership in their efforts to improve us all as paddlers. Scott

Michael: Well, if you want to spend half that much, you can pick up a cheaper one at your local West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...dkey=SiteSearch Less mechanical advantage than the 35 model, but small enough to fit easily in a kayak hatch. You could extend your stay on an offshore island due to weather or convenience. Besides, it's a chance to get another kayak toy. Scott

I've had very good luck with a Casio Pathfinder Triple Sensor watch. It has a barometer with an 18 hour trend graph at two hour intervals (9 data points). The axis has only about 7 bars, but scrolls as the pressure changes. It is not labelled either, but you can see the current reading and guage the rest. Allowed to see overnight trends and gave a very intuitive sense of pressure. Reliable, durable and intuitive. Can't say I predicted a storm with it, but learned a lot about weather by tracking it. The real value is if on an extended trip without access to weather forecasts. Got the watch originally for $99 ($250 retail). It was a metal case and had analogue hands. Lost it October 2005 on the beach at the Merrimack. Found the same watch on line last winter, this time for $150. See http://www.princetonwatches.com/shop/casiopathfinder.asp for examples of the current Casio line up with different combinations of features. General Comments Some Casio watches have a much shorter trend period (six hours?). Find one with the 18 hour trend. The tempurature feature on a wrist watch is decidedly limited use: mine is not accurate when worn since it is influenced by body heat. The only time it is accurate is when it off my wrist for 10-15 minutes. The compass feature can be very handy, but a similar feature on my GPS eats battery life, so consider if it is worth it. I don't like the backlighting when tilted feature on some watches: it would be triggered often when paddling and anyway consumes battery life when you don't need it. Much prefer analogue watch with glow-in-the-dark hands. Easy to see at night and no fuss with backlighting. Have had several Casio watches with resin cases die after a couple of seasons. I don't think they are as rugged as metal cases, though the resin ones are less expensive. 100 meter waterproofness is the minimum you should consider. 50m watches don't last while kayaking. Scott

If you are capsizing and trying to stop your full capsize so you can do a sweep (or C-to-C) roll, try raising the paddle blade AWAY from the surface of the water as you capsize. This puts the shaft of the paddle PARALLEL to the water as you hit. The feeling is letting your arms give with the water, extending your hands away from the body as your torso falls into the water and leaves the paddle at the surface. There are two advantages: a lot less you stress on the joints and muscles and the paddle is already laying on the surface. From this position (with the paddle perpendicular to the boat), I find it easier to do a C-to-C roll as I'm already in position. But it is easy to move the blade forward to initiate a sweep roll if that's your preference. Harder to describe than do. Scott

Ernie: You bring up some subtle points in paddle design and length. However, your theme that total paddle length doesn't mean much without knowing blade (spoon) length seems to me to apply only to bent shaft paddles. I paddle only straight shaft, and my hand placement does NOT change with different blade lengths nor for that matter shaft length. It's pretty much determined by my shoulder width; I just grab where my body wants them to be. I do change the width sometimes for more power (wider grip increases leverage) or a change of pace to vary muscle use. In fact, that's one of the reasons why I don't like bent shaft: there is only a very small range of adjustment you can make in the width of your grip. Straight shaft gives you lots of choice. Of course, if you need the bent shaft to deal with wrist issues, it's well worth it. There is a manufacturer that gives you the ability to size blade length (and width) separately from paddle shaft length (and style): Lendal. Their 4-piece PadLock system let's you mix and match, plus it travels easily. In addition, it gives you can repair a broken shaft or blade by swapping out the part. They even have bent shafts. See http://www.lendal.com/page.asp?pgid=500010058 I use them exclusively and like the flexibility. Scott