scamlin

Kevin: I was browsing Brian's link and found a description for how to make a sprayskirt: http://www.wwslalom.org/skirt/index.htm Scott

Christopher: I think the problem is not the quality or attraction of Jonathan's class. The problem is that as a dedicated civil servant in the U.S. Park Service, he is on duty on weekends welcoming the public and thus forced to offer this excellent 2-day course on weekdays. The well-attended and well-appreciated previous class Jonathan offered to NSPN was a weekday evening session for 2 hours. Best Regards, Scott

Jason: I'm of the trim persuasion. The basic idea is to get a smooth form to pull the gasket over that you can cut against. I think I used a quart yogurt container for the neck gasket. It needs to be snug enough to not move around, but not excessively tight. Then I took a new, sharp single edge razor and carefully cut about 1/8" bands using the existing edge as a guide. Some mark the gasket with a pen; I did it by eye. It doesn't need to be exactly straight, but should not have jagged places (i.e. where you restart the cut) as these can lead to tears. The most important thing is to be patient and take off only a very small amount each time. Because the gasket material itself is tapered, it will seem too tight then all of sudden, about right. Obviously, once you've cut it off, it's gone. You can always wear it a couple of times and trim it again. I trimmed my neck gasket in four or five installments, trying it on between each cut. The final fit should be snug but definitely not unduely tight or painful. Eye buldging is probably a sign you need to cut off more. Hope this helps.

Suz: The LV has the same hull as the regular Romany. The main differences are a smaller cockpit, a lower deck and shorter bulkhead. If it fits, get one. Scott

I heard today a second hand report from someone who attended the Sweetwater symposium that the weather system that blew through Florida last week was a fairly serious cell. Winds in the 60-70 range, off-shore if I heard correctly. The staff at Sweetwater evacuated 120 boats off the beach in the middle of the night because of the potential storm surge. Which points to the other tidbit: the storm was in the marine forecast; it is unclear whether the paddling party listened to it. As for second-guessing the leader: it appears there were serious lapses, but we should always remember two things: We weren't there, so we don't know what really happened, what the conditions were or what wise or not wise decisions were made. And second, such incidents are rarely the result of one major bad decision, but rather a series of small judgement calls based on partial information with an uncertain future. Things that are clear and simple from the outside after the fact are usually confused and complicated while they are happening. We've all done what in retrospect are dumb things--probably most of the small lapses in this case at one time or another--and did not end up in a news report only because they didn't line up into a disaster.

David: MIKCO has indeed run Baja trips in the past several times. I believe my point was that like many outfitters, they don't go unless there are enough clients to make it worth the while. By why speculate here? Just call them and ask. Scott

There is more to it than that. The whole shape of the deck around the opening changes, the height at various points is different resulting in different angles to fair the surface around the opening back down to the part of the deck that does't change. The thigh braces alone are at very different heights and location. When Valley came out with a keyhole cockpit on the Pintail (late 1998?) they considered it quite an achievement because of the tricky retrofitting on a boat originally designed for an ocean cockpit. A dual-style mold could be done but it would either involve significant compromises or additional glass or padding. My guess is the reasong for the keyhole is that the ocean cockpit market is so small that it is uneconomic--not just the typically expensive deck mold but the cost of marketing and stocking multiple types of boats. Anybody want to guess the percent of ocean cockpits sold on new sea kayaks in 2004? 3%? 5%? 1%?

The technique of kicking until horizontal and then dragging yourself up with your arms is exactly the preferred method for getting on the rear deck of a kayak for an assisted rescue. A transferable skill! Scott

Brian: I'll help where I can. Otherwise, I'll be working on my boat or watching John hack away at his Explorer. Scott

A dissenting option: You can keep your feet warm and wet simply by wearing the appropriate neoprene sock inside a neoprene boot. Divers do it all the time. If you wade into the ocean when launching, some water will get in, but it will stay warm. I use a 3mm sock in a 5mm boot and stay warm through rescure practice down to mid-40s water temps. You can cinch your drysuit pant cuffs to the boot to minimize water infiltration. And despite the testimonials of the Chota mukluk crowd, you don't necessarily need anyting more than an ankle-high bootie. The main drawback is prune-feet, not cold. Booties are great, but there is always the risk of puncture or tears in the booties (latex or GorTex), with the attendant compromise of the drysuit. Scott

I have the same problem (longer and skinnier) and my wetsuit size varies with the manufacturer. A few tips: As Brian suggests, the key to warmth is snug fit around the torso. So lean towards the torso fit (weight) unless it is really uncomfortable in length. A new wetsuit will be....snug. While it doesn't really stretch much, it will loosen up in the first season. Pay particular attention to the fit around the armpits and on the back between the shoulder blades. Gaps in either area increase cold water infiltration. On the other hand, any binding in the armpits will be pretty after an hour or two of paddling. Height is a deceiving indicator since the only real issue is torso length: a long neck or even long legs can make your height a poor indicator of wetsuit fit. I get a reasonable fit with a suit that is one size too small in height and in the lower range in weight. If it helps, I've found that a NRS Farmer John in large fits well. For Hydroskin shorts and short sleeve, I fit a medium. (I'm 6'-2" and 175 lbs.) If you do take Brian's advice and go for a drysuit, it's worth it to get a custom size unless you're close to a stock size. I ordered a Kokotat and got a medium with 2" each added in the sleeves, legs and torso. The additional $ was well worth it. Scott

And 'George Orwell' wrote the book 1984 in a small cottage on the Isle of Jura, which is one of six islands in Scotland that has a distillary producing single malts. It's about an eight mile walk from the cottage to the north end of Jura overlooking Coryveckan.

For what it is worth, the Trip Leader Committee and Trip Coordinator require helmets for any official trips or training that are planned near rocks or in surf (with or without rocks). In fact, we require helmets when rescue training or practice is conducted on moving water (surf, rough water, current) even with no rocks due to the risk of heavy moving boats. Trip leaders also have the option of requiring helmets if they choose. You could make the case helmets should be worn on any Level 3 trip due to the possibility of rough water and the temptation of casual rock play, but the club has not gone there to date. The club cannot require anything for unofficial SNG events, including helmets. Tow belts are useful equipment, but rock gardens in surf or swells (or breaking surf without rocks) are about the last place they should be used due to the risk of entanglement. Only very experienced paddlers should reach for a tow to pull someone out of trouble. In most situations, if you can safely reach the person in trouble, it is possible and preferred to tow them without a rope--a so-called "contact tow" where the assisted paddler holds onto a safety line or draps over the deck of the rescuer's boat. Most of us should save tow lines for assisting others over distance on open water, not extracting them from dicey situations. Scott

Bob: Thanks for the tutorial--greatly appreciated. Now, where to find good, micro-chip-controlled chargers? I recently got a Night-Rider bike lite for Beth. Went with the NiMH battery because the alternative was lead-acid and weighed a ton. And the NiMH had somewhat more capacity. Only problem is....the instructions (reinforced by the knowledgeable saleman) emphasize that you MUST charge it exactly 9 hours. They practically promise that if you forget and leave the battery on the charger for 20 hours, it is permanently damaged. Plus, if you leave it unused over the summer (when commuting requires no lite), it may drain completely and you can throw it away. Hard to believe a consumer product with a $75 battery has this degree of vulnerability. (The battery represents over half the cost of the lite). The included charger? I wouldn't even call it a charger: it's a simple AC adapter (a transformer block with a thin wire and plug). Kinda like you see included with cheap consuer electronics (e.g. phones) with no batteries. NO CHARGING controls at all....except the poor, nerve-wracked owner. The instructions suggest if you are the "type to forget things" (apparently when 9 hours is up), you should buy a timer at your local hardware store. A reliable low tech solution I guess. We won't mention that a set time such as 9 hours is unlikely to be the correct charge as it does not take into consideration how discharged the battery is in the first place. The web site says you can tell if a partially drained battery is charged before the 9 hours if it is warm. More low tech. Is there a reasonably priced after market charger available with some kind of digital control? Or is a hardware store timer really the best alternative? Scott

Here's the Maine company that makes custom kayak covers: http://www.kayakcovers.com/ Gloria Krellman is a fine lady making customer covers. Never used one, but she runs an honest business. Gloria is also one of the original sponsors of the reborn Gulf of Maine Sea Kayaking Symposium held in Castine, ME in July. Best, Scott

Al: While I have the 70P installed permanently on my boats, when at the BCU sumposium in Georgia, I was motivated to by a bungie-mounted compass for night paddling since the forward position of the 70P is impractical (can't see the damn thing). I picked up the Brunton 58 kayak compass: http://www.brunton.com/catalog.php?item_id...d_category_id=4 Pluses are: Four bungies, rather than two, for greater stability Small size (can store in hatch as backup) Relatively low profile Well made Has potential for interior illumination (same compass unit is also available on a auto dashboard mount with a light) There is a small chamber on top of the clear dome and a channel leading to it. I forced a small chem light into the chamber, which proved serviceable on a night paddle. More tinkering could result in a way to use lightsticks in the dome without removing the compass from the base. Note this is a relatively small compass (maybe 3" in diameter) so there are not a lot of precise degree markings. However, given the 10 degree margin of error in paddling, this is not a great drawback. I like it as a back up, temporary mount compass. I think I paid $40 or $45 for it. Scott

Like Suz, I prefer flexibility. Here's what I look for in cold-water gloves: 1. Raw neoprene which give excellent grip. 2. No or minimal interior seams, which can cause irritation. I'm not a big fan of designs with multiple layers of different materials, as these require multiple seams. 3. Glued seams which means the glove is waterproof (except around the cuff). This will keep cold water from seeping in during paddling but not if you go for a swim. 4. 2mm thickness which is plenty flexible but warm enough for most paddling. 3mm or above makes it harder to feel the paddle (and perform other tasks that may be safety-related) but are sometimes necessary due to very cold waters. My favorite is the Glacier Glove Aleutian Water Sport: 2mm, glued seams, raw textured all over, very flexible, lined, tight fitting. Main drawback is that the seam at the base of the palm blows out after a season or two, a problem I've largely solved by applying a bead of Aquaseal to the exterior seam when they are new. Not for really cold water, but fine April-November. Retail about $30. https://secure7.nexternal.com/shared/StoreF...ount2=428153634 Glacier also makes a heavier model with a blue hyperion palm and knuckle inserts for more pre-curve; while comfortable for their weight, they are too thick for me unless it's really cold. I've also had good luck with Chota models, again in plain, raw neoprene. Finally, for dead-of-winter paddling, you need a dry glove such as the Nordic Blue. Scott

The Iceland circumnavigation Christopher refers to was completed by Chris Duff, Leon Somme and Shawna Franklin. The website for the expedition is at http://www.icelandexpedition2003.com/ along with photos and regular updates which tell the story. It is not, however, a detailed logbook useful for piloting. I imagine any of them would be happy to point you to further resources or answer questions. John Burleigh did the solo circumnavigation, also in 2003. His a website is at: www.iceland2003.co.uk but does not appear to be up and running now. Scott

It would be exciting to have one here in the northeast and there is an unfilled need, but the economics and the near saturation of mega events in the kayaking world make it imperative to find the right time and niche. It seems every outfitter and retailer on the east coast has its own symposium or 'paddle days', so there are a lot of competing events. Based on what I saw at Sea Kayak Georgia, it takes a HUGE amount of work as well as infrastructure (meeting space, housing, dining or restaurants, transportation, launch facilities, boats for those from away, gear to rent/loan, reservations, administration, etc.). Not to mention someone or several entities willing to put cash up front and absorb the risks. And realistically, it may take a few years to develop it to a point where it would pay for itself. I think it would be difficult to pull off without the sponsorship/collaboration of one or more outfitters as well as some vendors. Not to mention the ability to pull in some well-known and highly-regarded instructors as a draw. What is the target audience: general kayaking or advanced paddlers? Vendors or training? BCU only or ACA too? Or non-certification courses? What would be different and attractive? A BCU symposium on the known model but in a different location and at a different time of year? How would it be distinguished from, say, the Gulf of Maine Sea Kayak Symposium in July? That event is sponsored by a number of small scale commercial outfits in Maine and a large number of volunteers. The clubs attend and do some promotion, but are not organizers. GOMSKS brings in some of the same instructors and vendors we see at the BCU symposiums here and on the west coast, but the event is not oriented towards BCU instruction. Great idea; lots to think about. Scott

David's summary of MITA's mission and goals is on target. I want to thank the NSPNers who turned out this afternoon: over 50 people attended--the majority MITA members but a good number who were just interested in learning more. The audience included quite a few people from Boston Sea Kayak Club as well as other organizations such as AMC and some area yacht clubs. We even had a few sailboat and motor cruisers--long time supporters of the Trail--who braved the mostly kayak crowd. It was great to see people mixing and making connections. Aside from Director Karen Stimpson's talk, we saw a slideshow by Bob Arledge and David Boyle from Bath, ME. Along with Mike Marino, in August 2003 they paddled the entire trail and then some from Portsmith, NH to the Canadian border. They had fog the first two weeks which made it easier to do the entire 320 miles in 18 days (no distractions). They also perfected a technique for traveling fast and light: eat in restaurants whenever you can! We hope to have another MITA gathering in the spring. In the meantime, you can learn more about access and stewardship on the Maine islands at www.mita.org. Any questions, let me know. Scott

We have room for a few more, but we do need an RSVP to keep within the room capacity. Let me know at scamlin at restructassoc dot com or call 617 484-9089 until 10 PM tonight. Scott

Richard: It ain't a brain teaser if you google the answer. You're supposed to think!!!! (Or maybe you already figured it out and were just citing the research). Scott

Well, I picked up a used 90WR on ebay for the Shetland trip (very cheap: the shipping was almost as much as the camera). Looked in good condition and was a trooper in Shetland for about 15 rolls which turned out fine. However, half way through a roll of film on Casco Bay, it died. New batteries, worked for 10 shots or so and then there were no signs of life. It's still got a half a roll of film with shots of NSPNers with the Queen Mary II in the background. Anybody have experience reviving this venerable model? No obvious damage or shocks... Scott

You like your coffee hot. But you also like milk in your coffee. Problem is that after you buy your coffee, it's a 10 minute walk to the put in where you'll be drinking the coffee. The question is: do you put the milk in the coffee at the store, or do you put the milk in a separate container and add it to the coffee at the put in? Which method gives you the hottest coffee? Scott

The only place where there is metal to metal contact is at the neck. I've found that if the flask is stored upright, it stays hot longer. If on its side, conduction bleeds heat to the outside of the flask, warming it to the touch while cooling its contents. Beyond this, I've found that FULL stainless thermos flasks stay hot for over 24 hours, but partially full ones get cold within a few hours. Hmmmm, a case of Liliputian physics? Or something else? Scott