scamlin

If you plan to join Chris and I on Saturday, please email the following at scamlin at restructassoc dot com: Name Boat (Model, color, length) Your cell phone number Emergency contact name Emergency contact phone number(s) We'll be filling out a float plan and having the info in advance will save time during the beach briefing so we can get on the water. With the predicted swells from the SE and the many ledges and shoals around and east of Bangs, conditions could include large breaking seas which is why we're posting it as level 3/4. Also, why helmets are a good idea. Forecasts also call for patchy fog, so a chart, compass and navigational skills would be a really good idea for each paddler. Water temps are about 54 degrees. We expect to be off the water about 5 PM. For the stewardship portion, it would help if you brought some trash bags and perhaps work gloves if you're concerned about debris. I believe there is poison ivy on this island. Given the season and the forecast (mild winds), I'm bring insect repellant. Thanks. Scott

Just to add a little background to Chris' post: forecasts are calling for 4-5 foot swells from the E veering to SE on Saturday and Sunday. While it could be fun for more advanced paddlers, this day and camping trip was intended for paddlers new to the ocean and camping. Even in the protected waters around Cape Porpoise, Level 2+ paddlers would be pinned down. We hope to schedule similar trips later this summer. Scott

Jeff: If it's the model we all bought in the group buy, it's a Standard Horizon HX460S. The owner's manual is on the Standard Horizon site: http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm...mp;isArchived=1 Look for Section 4.8 on p. 13. This radio can do a "dual Watch" not as obvious as other radios, but uses the radio's Priority Scan feature. Interestingly, you can set any other channel--not just 16 or 9--to be the monitored channel in the background. Scott

Michael: I, too, prefer the flexibity and ease of flat tarps. I used them for many years on wilderness canoe trips on lakes in northern and eastern Maine. My preferred tarps were the blue or green plastic coated tarps with the grommets: big, cheap and flexible, if not very durable. What I didn't like was the incessant drumming sound when the characteristic NW winds came up, often day and night for several days. The sound was enough to drive you crazy and kept you awake at nights: no amount of tightening or adjustment would eliminate the flapping. That's when I started looking for a wind shedding tarp. Scott

Ed: Last time I remember driving through Belfast, I noticed the factory, but this was many years ago. It's possible that tarps are still produced at this location, but the brand name Moss is gone. When repacking after the workshop, I noticed the label on my old Parawing said "Moss Seattle, WA" which I assume is where Cascade Design is headquartered (or was). So I guess they kept the label for a while after they bought Moss. As for price, I've had my eye on the VistaWing for over 10 years, waiting for a good deal. I got it for not much of a discount last December in the annual auction of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail--a 740 mile inland water trail from Old Forge, NY through Lake Champlain, Quebec, NH and the northern rim of Maine. I figured I didn't mind getting a small discount since I was looking for an excuse to support a worthy organization. As for pitching: the VistaWing has no "beaks" as some tarps do, but it really does not want to be set up by folding it. As long as you keep the basic shape, it can be set with a steep or shallow pitch, or on an angle with the rear or a side down to the ground as a wind break. Once you start deforming the wing shape by folding it over a line, however, you lose the curve and the wind shedding feature. I've set the parawing on broken ground: just adapting the pitch to the terrain and pulling taut. Scott

Ernie: The two tarps I showed at the workshop were Moss/MSR brand. (Moss used to be an independent manufacturer based in Belfast, ME. Cascade Design bought them out a number of years ago and now markets the designs under the MSR brand.) They make tarps with the ridge and edges cut on a curve or wing shape so that when pitched, they shed wind without flapping. Compared with flat tarps, wing or catenary tarps are better in the wind while flat tarps are somewhat more flexible for different uses. The small tarp I had at the workshop is a 12' Moss Parawing over 10 years old: it didn't flap a bit in a stiff wind last summer camping in the Vinalhaven area. Unfortunately, MSR no longer makes the Parawing, but does make some small tarps of new design. MSR still makes the VistaWing, another old Moss design, which was the larger tarp at the workshop: it is a mid-size one, good for small groups (2-4) but reasonable to carry. My only complaint is that given the curved ridge, the 6' poles do not allow you to stand upright under the tarp. http://cascadedesigns.com/MSR/Tents/Baseca...staWing/product This design is also available in a much larger size as the OutfitterWing (6-12 people) but it's almost 12 lbs and unrealistic for a kayak. NRS makes a similar size tarp, the River Wing. It would make a great emergency tarp for an guide or trip leader to carry to get a large group out of the rain, even on day trips. These tarps are not cheap (the VistaWing goes for abotu $180 retail) but are very well made and durable. MSR also makes silnylon tarps which are lighter. As Peter says, light and strong = expensive. Here's a listing of other tarps: http://www.backcountrygear.com/tent/tarps_wings.cfm One thing to watch for is that nylon tarps generally will stretch when wet, distorting shape and making it harder to keep it taut. If not very well cut, they are difficult to keep pitched correctly. I have a 19' Walrus tarp (another disappeared manufacturer) similar to the old 19' Moss Parawing, but with a lighter fabric. It works OK, but when it rains, the water collects in bulges where the fabric sags inside the hemmed edges. That's one reason why some high end double wall tent makers switched to designs with a polyester fly a number of years ago (no stretch), even as the tent floor material remained nylon. I don't have any silnylon shelters, but I believe they are also susceptible to stretch. Scott For the technically minded, a catenary curve is a hyperbolic cosine. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catenary for an interesting overview. My labeling of the tarps at the workshop as a catenary cut was based on the old literature from Moss; the current MSR site does not claim the design is catenary.

John: Here's the Pains Wessex product listing. http://www.pwss.com/ProductSpec.aspx?Produ...119&CatId=5 I was wrong: hang time is 40 seconds, not 90. Not sure of the distance, but it should be easy to figure given the earth's curvature and the estimated height (300 meters). Not sure if the intensity is an issue at the 20 mile distance, but I can tell you when the Coast Guard shot one off from South Portland in April, it was easily visible across the harbor.

Despite the checkered history of some NSPNers, I feel compelled to update our experiences: At the Coast Guard open house in South Portland in late April this year, we chatted with the coasties and some local outfitters. They told of a local man who did exactly that on the 4th of July in Portland. The CG caught him and the fine was pretty stiff ($5,000 if I remember correctly). Based on these conversations, I for one was convinced the Coast Guard will not cut people slack and look the other way on the 4th. Scott

I just replaced my Skyblazer flares (expired 2007) after a bit of a search. Joel at NESC told me they were off the market for a while: seems there were problems so they were redesigning them. Must be the "improved" features. On the old ones, the plunger dropped out of the tube easily and could be pushed back. I was not brave enough to try opening up these new ones--which on casual inspection look a bit tighter. If you figure it out, let us know. While shopping I saw the new Paine-Wessex parachute flare. It appears to be a substantially better product than the older model: the business end has an O ring and screws off and the tube is a robust plastic. Seems to be much more waterproof: the old one had an O-ring, but it was a slip fit I think. In any case, the foil over the pyrotechnical material disintegrated after 5-6 years (I know, it expires after 3 years, but the longevity is an indicator of waterproofness in my opinion). For those who are not familiar with a parachute flare, they are an entirely different class of signaling device: 1000' vs. 300', 90 second hang time (thanks to the parachute) vs. 10-20 second for skyblazer. Not cheap at $45 apiece but gets attention at a much greater distance. Scott

Thanks for the clarification. Hadn't seen this new Valley innovation. My solution to flopping toggles down the highway is low tech: a loop of thin (1/8-3/16") elastic cord that goes under the decklines at the nose attachment point (rdf). It can be hooked over the bow and stern toggles, holding it to the deck. The elastic cord is so stretchy that it easily allows the toggle to be pulled over the end of the bow/stern for use by a swimmer (the cord is then around the bow/stern below the toggle line). It even allows--gasp--the toggle to be used to carry the boat. You can check out my set up at the camping workshop tomorrow in Topsfield. Scott

Just a reminder that NSPN's 2009 Camping Workshop will be held on Wednesday, June 10 at the Gould Barn in Topsfield. (1 Howlett St., Topsfield, MA 01983) With the club's ties to the Maine Island Trail Association (MITA), there will be island camping trips this summer to Maine, so here's a chance to find out what you need to know to come along. While the workshop is primarily designed for new campers, members who have already camped from their kayaks may want to come to pick up tips or add their own experiences. The program runs 6:30-9:00 PM but we'll have some equipment set up about 6 PM if you want to come early. If you plan on coming, please reply here so we have an idea of the total count. Program 1. Introduction 2. Trip planning 3. Food, fuel and water 4. Site selection & set up 5. Leave No Trace 6. Camping equipment 7. Boat packing 8. Q & A We'll have four types of kayaks on display with full camping gear, with opportunity to ask questions of their experienced owners. Presenters include Deb Duncanson, Dave Duncanson, Paula Riegel, Peter Brady and Scott Camlin. Hope to see you there! Scott

Dana: Could you explain exactly how the toggle clip snagged on your deck lines? I'm not sure I understand what clip means: the black plastic bar attached through the eye at the bow with loop of white nylon line? Toggles are considered safety equipment by the Brits: an essential hold for a swimmer (maybe the paddler) to hold onto a kayak. They are more convenient than deck lines to either tow or be towed from the water. They can be important particularly in surf as they are designed to be held even if the kayak window shades in a wave. If they can snag on the decklines of another boat, that's a real problem but I've never heard of this happening before. Thanks, Scott

Barry: How about a canoe? Time-tested, no fuss and stable. Easy to move around in on the water. Hauls a load of gear. Kids love them as they can lean over the edges or jump in. And since they are somewhat out of fashion (due to kayaks), you may be able to find a used one cheap. Scott

Agree with Suz: no bungies on toggles. They have much less strength and deteriorate over time. If you need the toggle in a rescue situation, it needs to be bomb proof so use a strong line. Scott

Gene: I've repaired my spray skirts many times for cuts, both on the nose where you've experienced them as well as on the sides (at the sharp edge of the rim) from other boats during rescue practice. Neither of my skirts originally had a rand or any reinforcing material. The skirts are used on an Explorer and a Romany 16. My standard repair is to glue the cuts back together with AquaSeal, a very strong and flexible glue. Just make sure the edges are more or less touching each other and reasonably aligned. They don't need to be perfect (unless cosmetics are a critical concern). For small cuts, the tension in the material is enough to hold the edges together. If the split is an inch or more, I've either loosely sewn the edges together or temporary stapled them together. Just be sure to force some glue into the crack so the edges are saturated. Don't worry about the strength of the thread: AquaSeal is stronger than the neoprene, so the thread or staples are merely used to keep the edges aligned until the glue sets. The glue itself can span a 1/16-1/8" crack with ease once set, but it will sag and drip until then. It's more difficult on the nose where the skirt has to bend around the rim. Don't expect a flat AquaSeal section to flex around and under the rim: you will have to fiddle to shape the skirt as if it is already conforming under the rim: AquaSeal will take on and maintain any shape you devise. I've used straight pins to tack the material in place and sticks, boxes and other stuff to position the skirt. Be relatively sparing with the glue: while flexible after setting, if it gets thick it doesn't flex much. Also, try to avoid a solid block of AquaSeal for more than 2-3 linear inches if you can help it, so the skirt still stretches where it needs to. After several repairs, I started preventive measures: running a thin layer of AquaSeal about 1/4-1/2" wide on the inside where the shape rim hits and also on the outside where rescued boats cut through the skirt. Sort of a homemade rand. Works great: the AquaSeal adheres tenaciously to the nylon fabric on the neoprene and is much tougher than neoprene. I'm still repairing a skirt I got over 10 years ago: looks ugly but is still functional. Personally, I'd avoid adding neoprene as the bulk could be, well, bulky and make a good seal difficult. Besides, neoprene tears pretty easily so it won't do much better than the skirt material that got cut up in the first place. AquaSeal ends up being a custom applied rand that really resists cuts. In fact, Glacier 2 mm neoprene gloves fit me perfectly, but the seam at the base of the wrist splits after a season or two. So I've taken to applying a preventive bead of AquaSeal along the seam on the outside when I first get a new pair and they last several times a long. Good luck. Scott

Sid: I'll second your concept. I've put nieces, nephews and assorted kids of frinds into my Avocet and Romany. It works, but if they're under 14 or so, they are much happier in the used Impex Sea Breeze I got: 14' and 21/5" beam. It's a real sea going kayak, just more their size in terms of cockpit fit and ease of handling. I've had many small adults (under say 140-150 lbs) be happy in it as well. At 6'-2". I fit and can paddle in it, but I would hesitate to take it out myself if I had a choice. It's fun though. The Sea Breeze hull and stability is similar to the Romany, just smaller: shallow V-bottom with rounded chines. It has only a rear bulkhead and no day hatch, not a problem for kids generally. Just be sure to get a good float bag for the bow. Impex makes a two bulkhead version of this hull in the Mystic, still no day hatch. Both are very light to carry. I've not found the narrow beam a problem for kids at all. Impex makes a couple of other basic 13-14' boats that are well designed: check out the Irie and the Gale. http://www.impexkayak.com/formula.html Scott One final consideration: do the kids a favor and find a smaller kids paddle. Both the length and weight of an adult paddle is a real barrier for them to learn and have fun.

Graham: The Avocet is a fine boat and, depending on your wife's size, should be OK for most club paddles. Yes, it can be a bit slower than a longer boat, but not much. Under 4 KTS (which would be considered a fast pace for a club trip), there is very little difference in hull resistance between a 16 foot and a 17-1/2 foot boat, other design factors being equal. At and above 4 KTS, the longer hulls are faster. As for being poly, the experts say the difference compared with glass boats is small, on the order of 3-4%. Not sure what you mean by straight legs and how it affects rotation and edging. I'm 6'-2", and my plastic Avocet allows plenty of rotation and edging. I can raise my knees so they are in contact with the thigh braces which is exactly what you need (in addition to hip fitting) for edging control. As for rotation, if anything her legs should alternately straighten on the side of the stroke, if at all. My only problem with the Avocet is fitting my feet under the low deck: I have to splay my toes to the outside with my heels together. This does not affect rotation or edging; rather, after a couple of hours, pressure on the foot pegs cause my knees to hurt a lot due to the fact that my knees are not aligned properly. The Nordkapp is a fine boat but is considered an advanced design because it has relatively low initial stability (tippy on flat water) and hard tracking (hard to turn) due to relatively low rocker. With practice and good technique (edging on turns), a skilled paddler can do fine with it, but it is a challenge so she should definitely try it out. I've personally only test paddled the Nordkapp, so others who've owned them will have more hands on experience to report. Note that several models of the Nordkapp have been produced over the years, at least three generations that I am aware of: original (narrow, hard tracking with ocean cockpit), Jubilee (fuller in chines, bit more rocker I think, keyhole cockpit); and the current model called the Classic (retained some of the rocker but back to the ocean cockpit). They have also had two stern designs: the standard hull (the old HS) and the integral skeg (the old HM). If you want a new Nordkapp with a keyhole cockpit, youre only choice is the poly version. http://www.valleyseakayaks.com/nordkappclassic.htm The NDK Explorer is designed for similar use (expedition/camping and rough water) but the hull design is different. The chines are more square and the bottom a modified V hull which gives it much more initial stability and very solid secondary stability (on the edge). It is known as a very secure rough water boat often recommended for new paddlers: it's a boat to start with and hard to outgrow. It had a reputation for uneven quality a number of years ago, but build quality seems to have been fixed the past several years (only an issue if you are buying a used boat). Explorers are among the most rugged boats on the water but are on the heavy side with stiff layups and thick gelcoat. You should be aware NDK makes an Elite version of the boat (about 8-10 lbs. lighter) by using considerably less gelcoat. Elite layups are not common in the US but at least one member of NSPN owns one. http://seakayakuk.com/index.php/The-Sea-Kayaks/ Since both boats are quite differnet in feel from the Avocet, your wife should definitely spend at least a day in any boat she is considering. Finding a Nordkapp may be a bit tricky as they are no longer common; post here and you're likely to get someone to loan you one. The nearest dealer is NE Small Craft in Rowley, MA. but they do not show Nordkapps in stock on their website. The US distributor is the Kayak Center in Wickford, RI that shows a few used composite Nordkapps; the only new Nordkapps are plastic. Tom Bergh at Maine Island Kayak Company (MIKCO) in Portland, ME has at least one used Nordkapp Jubilee listed on the MICKO website at a good price. There are plenty of Explorers in the club and people will be glad to let you try it out if you post. Or you can demo a boat at a dealer. A lot of Explorers in NSPN came from MIKCO; Tom Bergh is one of the best around at fitting you in your boat, so if that is a concern he can take care of you. He is stocks a large number of new Explorers (currently on sale) and a couple of used ones as well. The other big dealer in the area is the Kayak Center in Wickford but the website shows only a couple of Explorers in stock. If you want to consider other boats of the Nordkapp/Explorer type, some good models to consider are: Valley Aquanaut (17.5' version of the Avocet), the P&H Capella series and the Impex Force series. All are common in the club so you should find it easy to borrow one for a test paddle. Your wife was concerned about pace. The Explorer has average or slightly less speed for it's length; the Nordkapp is somewhat above average speed for it's length and definitely faster than the Explorer. However, they are not all that much quicker than the Avocet which is really a fast boat for it's length. Again, at club speeds (typically 3 KTS), hull length just does not make that much difference. In fact, the Valley Avocet/Aquanaut hull is a very efficient at any speed. Paddling technique and paddle length are much more important for boat speed than hull length. Proper rotation and blade entry/exit make a big difference as your wife understands if she is worried about rotation. And many paddlers who struggle with pace when using a paddle of 220-230 cm find an significant improvement when they switch to 215 or 210 cm paddles. Why? More leverage. Good luck. Scott

Les: As Phil and Gary's comments neatly illustrate, there are two uses for a VHF: communication within your party (mostly coordinating among yourselves) and communication to other boaters and the authorities. Both have a safety dimension, but Bob's recommendation mostly applies to the latter: calling for help in an emergency. While a VHF has limited emergency use on inland lakes and rivers (mainly because few if any other boaters or the Coast Guard are listening) there is exception: where there is regular commercial or motorized/sail boat traffic. Think areas near or in major harbors (Baltimore), major rivers (Hudson) or lakes (Champlain). Boats in these areas are like to monitor and respond to distress calls and the CG is present. If you ever paddle on or near the Cheseapeake, both the risk and the help are there, so yes, a VHF should be considered essential eqiupment. Scott

Saw a couple of new rescues that are interesting variations on the bow rescue and the T rescue. Might be fun to experiment this season. Videos in the article. For the second one, you need to click on the " Video Ladder Style Assisted Rescue for Sea Kayak" link just below the YouTube clip of the first one. http://gokayaknow.com/

As the main paddling season nears and people are thinking about trips, the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the Coast Guard (CG) have some valuable resources online that can aid in planning. NOAA focuses on charts and related ocean information, the Coast Guard on Aids to Navigation and current navigational information. CG information is provided according to CG Districts: the northeast from NJ to Maine is District One. Below are descriptions and links for useful resources on line and in pdf format (you'll need the Acrobat Reader): Learn about Charting Products. For an overview of NOAA resources see the list at the link below. In particular, check out the links under "Learn About Charting Products" for good information on what NOAA offers. http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/staff/chartspubs.html NOAA Charts. A few years ago, NOAA made its charts available online for free. They are in the BSB format and require separate software to view and use. NOAA offers a free reader, but you may be better off with a commercial product. Downloading charts is not simple: you need to find the charts, "order" them (which involves compressing them into a zip file), downloading them, unzipping them and then opening them with your software. However, they are free. See http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mcd/Raster/index.htm to get started. Note at the bottom of the page are links to demo versions of chart readers. Chart No. 1. If you are reading charts, it helps to know what the symbols on the chart mean. The comprehensive guide is NOAA's Chart No. 1 which can be downloaded as one document (85 Mb) or section by section. Essential for chart reading, but you will need a color printer if you want to use them in printed form. http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mcd/chartno1.htm#toc Tide and Currents. Links to the familar tide and current predictions. http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/tides09/ http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/currents09/ Radio Marine Forecasts. Radio broadcasts of marine forcasts by the National Weather Service may make more sense if you know which stations cover which sections of the coast. See first link below for a Service Chart showing station location and frequency and much useful info on the reverse side (though note the caution that this chart is no longer updated). Select "Front" and "Back" for the Eastport to Montauk chart. A chart listing the fequencies for common channel designations (WX1, WX2, etc.) is on the second link with additional general information on the NWS's radio offerings. http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/pub.htm http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/wxradio.htm Coastal Pilot. A cruising guide with all sorts of local information along the coast. It is a supplement to nautical charts, providing info not easy to show on a chart. You can download the entire pilot or just the section of the coast of interest. Note Coast Pilot 1 covers Maine down to Provincetown; Coast Pilot 2 covers south of the Cape to NYC. Don't forget to check the Critical Corrections page which shows the current edition of the pilot and corrections for each volume. This reference is particularly valuable on unfamiliar coasts. http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/nsd/cpdownload.htm http://www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/nsd/cpilot1-3.htm Light List. A master list of all aids to navigation, though large at 384 pages. The first 31 pages alone are worth the download as they show color diagrams of bouys, signals, etc. Note this document is published annually. They occasionally publish a corrections list as a summary (see link). For completely up to date information, you need to check the Local Notice to Mariners to get any changes since the last annual publication (see below). You will need to click on the pdf for District One. If you are going to depend on bouys and lights, you need this one as the aids on your chart may be moved, missing or out of operation. http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pubs/LightLists/LightLists.htm http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pubs/LightLists...ons/default.htm Local Notice to Mariners (LMN). Besides weekly bulletins on changes to bouys and lights, it reports other activities of concern to boaters such as bridge and channel status, construction, exclusion zones, etc. Very good to check when planning travel in unfamilar waters. (See examples of notices at end of this email). http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/lnm/d1/default.htm Navigation Rules. You may have heard of the "Rules of the Road": here's the official version and if you're wondering, yep, every one of them applies to you in a kayak. http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/rotr_online.htm There are many other resources on the NOAA and CG sites, worth an evening's browsing if interested. For instance, there is the list of all VHF marine radio channels, current listings of regions where the military is deliberately scrambling GPS signals, and lots of other info on advanced GPS services. The good folks at NOAA and the CG are trying hard to use technology to make their tax supported information easy to access. They're even experimenting with podcasts, MP3 files, and pushing buoy and weather info to cellphones and PDAs, etc. Enjoy. Best Regards, Scott Examples of noticres in Local Notice to Mariners: ME - CAPE NEDDICK HARBOR TO ISLES OF SHOALS-CAPE NEDDICK HARBOR The Coast Guard has established a safety zone 100 yards on either side of the Cape Neddick Harbor Bridge, also known as the Shore Road Bridge in Cape Neddick, Me. No vessel traffic is allowed to move within 100 yards of the bridge without permission from the Captain of The Port, Sector Northern New England. Affected mariners are requested to contact Coast Guard Sector Northern New England on Channel 16 VHF-FM for further information. Chart 13283 MASSACHUSETTS – NEWBURYPORT HARBOR AND PLUM ISLAND SOUND – PARKER RIVER – Bridge Construction and Vertical Reduction – Construction of the new Route 1A (High Street) Bridge at mile 1.8, across the Parker River at Newbury, Massachusetts, is underway and will continue through 2010. Containment netting has been installed under the bridge reducing the vertical clearance by pproximately one foot or less. Work barges will be located a various locations and will move upon request. Working hours are from 7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. Mariners should exercise caution while transiting the area. Chart 13282 LNM 09/09 (CGD1)

Conditions at Isle of Shoals on Februery 27, 2009 The data from last Friday are below. It has a familiar pattern of launching in reasonable conditions only to find the return the conditions are considerably worse. During prep and launch (11 AM to 12:30 PM if press reports are accurate), the winds were about 15 kts from the SE. From Odiorne Point, the winds would have been directly head on, a very stable direction to paddle a kayak. When he launched to return at 3 PM, the winds had picked up considerably, 25-28 kts over the next several hours, a range only advanced paddlers can handle. Still out of the SE, they would have been following seas, the most unstable direction for a kayaker. Also, with sunset about 5:30 PM, he would have had 2-1/2, maybe 3 hours at the most of daylight to cover almost eight miles. If he had the skills to surf the swells and with the tail wind, it is possible to make 4-5 kts, so it is doable in two hours, but it's a gamble. Station IOSN3 - Isle of Shoals, NH Real time continuous wind data February 27, 2009 First, the conditions before and during launch from Ordine Point: #YY MM DD hh mm WDIR WSPD GDR GST GTIME #yr mo dy hr mn degT m/s degT m/s hhmm 2009 02 27 12 30 159 9.8 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 12 20 163 9.8 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 12 10 164 9.3 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 12 00 164 8.2 160 9.8 1159 2009 02 27 11 50 167 7.7 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 11 40 167 7.7 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 11 30 167 7.7 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 11 20 168 7.2 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 11 10 170 7.2 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 11 00 169 7.2 160 9.3 1002 Conversion factor: 1 M/S = 1.944 Knots 7.2 M/S 14 kts at 11 AM 8.2 M/S 16 kts at 12 Noon 9.8 M/S 19 kts at 12:30 PM 2009 02 27 18 00 153 14.4 160 15.4 1739 2009 02 27 17 50 155 14.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 17 40 157 14.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 17 30 156 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 17 20 156 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 17 10 158 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 17 00 159 12.9 160 15.4 1625 2009 02 27 16 50 159 12.9 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 16 40 159 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 16 30 157 13.9 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 16 20 156 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 16 10 154 13.9 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 16 00 156 14.4 160 15.4 1549 2009 02 27 15 50 156 13.9 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 15 40 156 13.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 15 30 159 11.8 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 15 20 159 12.4 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 15 10 162 12.9 999 99.0 9999 2009 02 27 15 00 164 12.9 160 14.4 1454 12.9 M/S 25 kts at 3 PM 14.4 M/S 28 kts at 4 PM 12.9 M/S 25 kts at 5 PM 14.4 M/S 28 kts at 6 PM Scott

Rafting is indeed the preferred method, but you need a backup plan if there are only two of you and the other paddler (or you for that matter) is unstable but needs a tow. The technique we used to teach for a disabled paddler was to put one float on each blade, but keep the paddle in the paddler's hand. Even a weak paddler has enough strength to do a sort of passive brace while under way and stay upright. It helps to hold the paddle shaft at the waist against the cockpit rim or even keep it tucked under the paddlers arms or the hem of the PFD if the paddler cannot sit up. The problem with putting them under the deck lines while underway is that the floats can hit passing waves and get knocked loose; in addition, could tip the kayak in a beam sea. Besides, keeping the paddle in hand is simpler to deploy and remove. As for sleeping, the first problem is finding a stable position within the cockpit. Sitting is inherently unstable and uncomfortable. You'd need to remove the bow bulkhead to lie down, but that creates obvious problems with storage and safety (little or now bow flotation). Ed Gillet did this on his 62-day paddle from San Francisco to Hawaii, but he was in a large doube (a stock Tofino a made by Necky), so he had the room to spread out. I believe he used sponsons while sleeping. Sponons are the standard method for adding stability on the water. They are inflatable floats attached at water level along each side of the cockpit. They have their limitations, not to mention a controversial history in the kayaking world. Here's a link to a manufacturer: http://www.harmonygear.com/sea-kayak-sponsons Here's a good (long) thread on paddlewise about the use of sponsons: http://www.paddlewise.net/topics/boatequip/sponson.html And, amazingly enough, the source of the controversy referred to in the thread is still at it--after almost 20 years--and still making sponsons controversial. Too bad for an otherwise useful product in certain applications. I won't include his link, but if you're not paddling in this cold weather, a search on the topic may turn up an evening of entertainment. Scott

While not really addressing Leon's on water handling question, one functional advantage of overhang, bow and stern, is it is less likely to foul on seaweed. Not a big issue on the east coast, but on the west coast (CA and Vancouver Island) it can be a significant problem: bull kelp will stop you cold. The sloped shape of the keel tends to ride up and over while paddling forward and back; the higher point of the bow/stern is less likely to get under the kelp. You can imagine similarly riding up over other objects in the water: float lines, cables, underwater rocks and beach bottoms (when surfing). As mentioned above, the raked bow is becomes really important in rough shore or dumping surf landings as you can paddle straight in and ride up onto enough shore to scramble out quickly. More to Leon's point, while the Epic/QCC assumption that "longer waterline length = higher hull speed" is accurate in principle, my understanding is that below, say, 4 kts, "wetted surface area = friction" is a more important factor in the speed of the kayak. You could argue that shorter boats are in principle faster--or at least no slower--for a given effort if paddled less than about 4 kts. Of course there are a lot of other factors as mentioned in previous posts, but it suggests that focusing only on waterline length is relevant only when paddling near hull speed, which for most kayakers (e.g. racers and fast expeditioners) is above 4 kts. There was a link posted a few months ago that plotted curves for a large number of kayaks of a considerable range of waterline lengths, and the theoretical speed (if I remember correctly) was almost identical up to about 4 kts and only then did the usual suspects (such as the Epic 18) diverge. (I'd welcome help from anyone who can provide the link.) That said, at least one well-regarded designer (Matt Boze of Mariner Kayak) suggests that: "The raked and flared ends increase the effective waterline length allowing a faster top (hull) speed without the extra wetted surface (frictional drag) at normal cruising speed that longer waterlines suffer. " http://www.marinerkayaks.com/ (See also under Model History Boze's description of the Coaster mentioned above). It appears he is saying is that as a kayak approaches hull speed, it is sitting in a trough; as the ends tend to bury, the waterline increases, thus effectively increasing hull speed. Hmmmm, not sure the angle of the hull wave really lengthens the waterline all that much, but it could. I still think Leon's question is valid, but my non-technical hunch is that the advantage of overhang, if there is one, is secure, predictable handling in rough, choppy, roiling seas where the reserve bouancy of the overhang dynamically comes into play by increasing floatation as the boat ends get buried in the waves. The simple-minded idea is that, other things being equal, your boat is better off on top of the water rather than being buried in it, especially in dicey situations. That said, I remember one well known kayak designer telling me his boats had a steadier ride precisely because they had narrow bows, designed to knife through waves rather than bob up and down over them them (albeit with a wetter ride as Paul S. points out). Definitely a winter topic when we all have too much time on our hands. Beats shoveling.

Agree with Gary's suggestions, though there were reports a couple of years ago of cars getting broken into at the Dutch Neck lot when left overnight. Don't know if that's sorted out since, but you might ask when enquiring. Scott

Which part are you having trouble with? The slider, threading the tube or the skeg itself? Scott