Brian Nystrom

It just goes to show that there is never a shortage of bad ideas...

Shouldered or not is definitely a personal preference and I lean heavily toward the shouldered camp. I don't know your level of comfort with GPs, but I strongly recommend shouldered paddles to people new to GPs, as the shoulders make centering and canting the paddle easier. The shoulders provide positive stops for the thumbs and additional leverage to cant the blade. However, once one has learned GP technique, it's not a difficult transition to a shoulderless paddle; it just requires a bit of adaptation. With a shouldered paddle, the cant is controlled by pressure against the shoulder from the pads at the base of the fingers and happens pretty much automatically. I find that I have to wrap my hands around the shoulderless paddle more and use my finger tips to help control the cant angle. It's not a big deal, but it is different. Many paddlers like the ease of sliding the paddle without shoulders and the paddles are typically a bit lighter, due to less wood in the blades. There is also a little less blade area, so if you want the same bite on the water, you may want to add an inch or so to the overall length compared to a shouldered paddle. If you're looking to reduce strain and/or increase your cadence, stick with the same length paddle. Looking at the Gearlab site, they only have the shoulderless paddle in the shortest (205cm / 80.7") and longest (230cm / 90.5") size, neither of which is ideal for an average sized paddler. While they appear to be nicely made, the price makes me shudder when I consider you can make your own GPs less that 1/10 the price.

A backband only inhibits rotation if it's too tall. If it's supporting your pelvis as it should be (rather than your lower back), it's not an issue.

That's not surprising considering that during the boom years of the late '90's to early 2000's, the majority of sea kayakers were middle-aged. There were a reasonable number in their 30's, but I don't recall many 20-somethings.

I suspect that's true (people following the latest fad) and also that many paddler who were very active during the "kayak boom" years have either lost interest, changed their preferred activities or aged out of the sport. I also noticed a few years back that many experienced paddlers were dropping out of clubs and doing their own thing. With less participation and leadership, organized group trips are bound to dwindle.

Here's a tutorial showing how I restored my red Anas Acuta: http://briannystrom.com/?page_id=115 The deck was really rough in some areas, so I had to be quite aggressive with sanding it. This will only work on boats with thick gelcoat, such as VCP and NDK. However, the extra fine sanding (600 grit +) and buffing process will work with most boats. Sanding through to 1500 grit produces a basic level of gloss, which is brought to full depth by buffing with the compounds. It removes very little extra material and the final finish is better than if you try to buff after 400 or 600 grit sanding. It's actually faster too, since you're not trying to remove significant scratches through buffing.

In case Werner doesn't come through for you, there's a relatively simple solution you can try. Mix up some epoxy and lightly coat the worn area(s). Allow it to cure FULLY, then carefully fit the two halves back together by lightly sanding away any excess epoxy until you achieve a perfect fit. If you happen to have fumed silica (Cabosil) available, adding it to the epoxy makes it more abrasion and wear resistant. You may have to repeat this process every season or two, but it will keep your paddle working well indefinitely. BTW, the same technique works for worn adjuster/spring clip holes in both ends of the shaft.

My understanding is that the flexible keel helps keep the hull in the water in swells, effectively increasing the waterline and reducing wavemaking drag. It may have been developed accidentally (a cracked keel or failed joint), then put into common practice because it worked. As for the bow and stern, there has been a lot of debate about them. I tend to subscribe to the theory that the bow design is an homage to the sockeye salmon and simulates the hooked jaw the males develop during spawning. The fact that it may improve performance is likely a fortunate accident, but has resulted in the design's longevity. I don't know of any real explanation for how the stern design was developed, but it apparently works.

That's only true if the flex in question absorbs your paddling energy. That's typically not the case. In some circumstances, a more flexible boat can be more efficient. The classic bidarka kayaks of the Aleut were often specifically designed to allow the keel to flex, as it was more efficient in waves.

First, a little clarification, fiberglass boats are composite boats. They are composed of layers of fiberglass bound with a resin (polyester, vinylester or epoxy). As for the advantages of carbon fiber, Kevlar or combinations thereof, there's a difference between the theoretical advantages and the way they're commonly used. Kevlar could produce a more durable boat and carbon fiber could produce a stiffer boat. However, what manufacturers typically do is to use these materials to produce lighter boats, which may not be any more durable or stiffer than the same design in fiberglass. There's nothing wrong with that, it's simply a design decision. There's also an expectation from the paddling public that higher-cost boats will be lighter, which may help to drive these decisions. There are also compromises involved. Kevlar is a tough material (it's used in body armor) and it's very light weight. However, it tends to get fuzzy when abraded and it will float on the resin if it's not vacuum-bagged, resulting in excess resin in the layup, leading to excess weight and diminished strength. Carbon fiber is very stiff, but has poor abrasion resistance, so it needs to be protected from contact with abrasive surfaces. Like Kevlar, it needs to be vacuum-bagged to achieve optimum strength and weight. In racing boats, you may see either or both of these materials used with little more than a light clear coat for protection. This results in really light, stiff boats that aren't very durable, but they're expected to be handled carefully to prevent damage. In a sea kayak, protective layers of fiberglass and gelcoat should be used in order to protect the carbon fiber and/or Kevlar layers from the inevitable contact with rocks, stone beaches, other boats and such. Consequently, they'll be somewhat heavier, but still lighter an a comparable all-fiberglass layup. If you're considering such a boat, it's a good idea to find out how it's constructed and determine if the layup is optimal for your intended purpose. If you really baby your boats (I've seen paddlers who wouldn't even rest their boats on sand), you can get away with a really light layup. If you expect your boat to endure the bumps and scrapes of more typical handling, look for something with better protection. If you like to play in rock gardens, you probably want to stick with an all-fiberglass layup.

It's important to remember that roles on the water can change in a big hurry. While we tend to think in terms of rescuing others, we could easily become the one in need of rescue. Your tow rig might be needed to rescue you at some point, so carrying it always is a good practice.

That is really sad, as Deb was a truly kind and gentle person. She will be missed...

Linda sold her Anas Acuta, but I can't find any way to delete the ad I posted for it. What am I missing?

I have to agree with Dan, The knowledge that comes from instruction - whether you pay for it or get it through mentoring programs in the club - is the most valuable tool a sea kayaker can possess. Unfortunately, it also the least likely thing obtained by new paddlers, as it requires time, effort and practice. Most people think they can buy a few safety accessories and be good to go, whether they actually know how to use them or not. They simply don't understand the potential for problems on the water or the reasons that they need to take precautions. Back in the day, when NSPN used to offer an outstanding trip leader training program, there was always a transformative moment when paddlers suddenly "get it", which I experienced both personally as a student and saw in the eyes of students when I helped to teach it. Once you experience that, you never look at paddling quite the same way again. The same thing happened the first time I was involved in a medical emergency on the water; the lessons from training really hit home when it's someone you know and care about who's in trouble. You can't buy these things, they have to be experienced. It's good to hear that people are reading "Deep Trouble". I didn't realize that there was a "volume 2"; I'll have to grab a copy. The club used to have a list of recommended gear for paddlers and required gear for trip leaders. Do those still exist? If so, they're a great place to start. Although it's been a decade or so since I last led a trip, I rarely paddle without the full complement of trip leader gear. I guess the training worked. ;-) Additionally, until you've spent some time on the water and understand why you need various types of gear and what works best for your particular needs, it's hard to make informed purchases. Being able to borrow and try a variety gear from other paddlers and hear their rationale for selecting those items is invaluable in making gear purchase decisions.

I guess it's the term "dump neck" that's confusing me. What is that?

Is the purpose of the Anorak to create a waterproof suit for use on land? Perhaps I'm missing something here...

As for the Idol suit, I haven't seen it in person, but it looks like the best two-piece solution on the market. It's definitely innovative. It doesn't seem like any more of a hassle to don and doff than a shoulder-zip suit and may require much less awkward zipper tugging. It seems to have some nice advantages and minimal disadvantages. Here are a few things to consider: The knob makes a pretty large lump that could potentially cause discomfort, depending on one's body shape.Is the suit still waterproof and will it stay zipped if the cover or knob are lost or damaged? Although that's probably unlikely, stranger things have happened on paddling trips...The extra thickness around the hips might require some adjustment to any hip padding in the boat. If the cheek plates on the seat are a close fit, this could create an issue.The video says you can wear the top separately, but it doesn't say that the bottoms can be. It would be worth clarifying that, if it's a concern for you.Some people like to use the shoulder zip on a traditional dry suit to ventilate when off the water (at lunch breaks, etc.). While you can take the top off of the Idol, will the pants stay up?Perhaps Lorrie or Suz can shed some light on this.

That's the beauty of Gore-Tex; you buy it once and you pretty much own it for life!

I carry a credit-card sized magnifier that fits in my chart case or PFD pocket. It only cost a buck or two. Here's an Ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=pocket+magnifier+-loupe&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcredit+card+magnifier.TRS0&_nkw=credit+card+magnifier&_sacat=0

Be careful with ice and anti-inflammatories; they should only be used for acute injuries, not as prophylactic measures. The inflammatory response is what causes muscles and tendons to grow and strengthen, what's commonly known as the "training response". Anti-inflammatories and icing blunt this response and slow growth and healing. While they are beneficial when the inflammatory response gets out of control (strains, sprains, tendinitis, etc.), they should not be used for the normal aches and soreness caused by exercise. That minor soreness is a good thing, as it indicates that you exercised enough to do yourself some good. Recent research on stretching has reversed long-held beliefs about its benefits. Stretching actually reduces the strength of muscles by up to 30%, so it should not be done before or during exercise. However, post-exercise stretching can be beneficial. The best way to avoid injuries is to warm up gradually and thoroughly before engaging in strenuous activity.

There's one simple thing you can try that may help. Spiral wrap some ~1/4" rope or bungee around the crossbars. That breaks up the airflow, which will kill any resonance. That may not be the issue, but it's worth a try.

Yes Leon, that's exactly what I meant. There's a simple way to validate this. Find a few rubber bands of the same size (for cyclists out there, a chunk of inner tube is perfect), that will fit pretty tightly on your wrist. Put one of them on and see how it feels. Then start adding them, positioning each beside the others (not on top), to simulate a wide rubber seal. Then you can judge what feels more comfortable. As for the effect of trimming a "straight" seal that Phil asked about, what you end up doing is removing the bulk of the straight section (typically ~1"), so what's left is the taper and a short straight section. In the case of a very large size disparity, you may end up removing all of the straight section. I want to make it clear that I agree that tapered seals are a good choice for these situations; my point is that if you have straight seals, you can make them work and use them until they're worn out.

If only that were the case. Allow me to add a bit more context to the subject. Stretching seals only works well if they're reasonably close to a good fit to begin with. If you have a substantial difference between the seal size and your wrist size - which is often the case with factory installed seals - stretching often doesn't work at all. Additionally, attempting to stretch seals enough to accommodate a large size disparity damages them and shortens their lifespan. That leaves trimming as the only viable solution for that situation and contrary to your assertion, it works. There's no point in cutting off perfectly good "straight" seals that can be trimmed to fit comfortably in order to install conical seals that will also need to be trimmed to fit; it's a waste of money. Sure, once the original seals wear out and need replacement, you have a variety of sizes and options with essentially no difference in cost, so people can choose whatever they need at that point. What I object to is your unnecessarily expensive solution. Changing seals multiple times to find the perfect fit is neither inexpensive nor convenient for people who don't do their own repairs (remember, DIY types like us are the exception, not the rule). I am simply explaining that there is no need to do that until the original seals are worn out, since any type of seal can be trimmed to fit. If you want to dispute any of this, that's your prerogative.

I beg to differ. I have been trimming "straight" seals successfully since my very first dry garment and it works just fine. Reducing the length of the tight area does NOT make them "feel worse". It definitely improves blood flow, as a smaller area of the wrist is constricted by the seal, seal pressure in that smaller area does NOT increase and the overall pressure on the wrist is greatly reduced. Additionally, if it's trimmed to the point that it's comfortable (as I described above), it provides a watertight seal and eliminates issues with cold hands and wrist soreness. Straight seals still have a tapered section, it's just more abrupt than on conical seals. This means that once you get close to the right fit, you have to trim in smaller increments until you achieve the desired fit. While this may not suit your personal preferences, it works fine for me and many other people. Please stop telling people that it can't be done or doesn't work, as that's simply not true.

I always trim my wrist seals for a comfortable fit. If you can't pinch them between your thumb and forefinger and easily lift them off your skin, they're too tight. They don't need to be uncomfortably tight to seal well.