Brian Nystrom

Yeah, you read that right and no, I haven't gone off the deep end.

I'm working on a method for repairing VCP hatch covers and I need damaged examples for testing, but only have a couple of my own. Specifically, I'm looking for covers where the flat center section has cracked, split or completely punched out, but the vertical section that fits on the rim is still intact (this seems to be the most common failure mode). If you have any kicking around, I'll be happy to get them out of your "I know it's junk but I can't bear to throw it away" pile. If I come up with a viable repair method, I'll return them to you repaired so you can test them and provide feedback. Worst case, I'll have helped you do a bit of house cleaning.

I currently have a method that looks promising, but I'm in the process of testing materials and adhesives. The ultimate goal is to be able to repair them for around half the cost of replacing them.

Surely there must be some other "packrats" like me out there that keep this stuff.

Oh -- and is the Pintail design finally dead?

No, although VSK will apparently only build the newer design now (no more pre-'95 design boats). Pity, that.

Are your compasses screwed securely to your boats? If you're using bungee or hatch cover mounted compasses, that's likely the problem as it can be difficult to align them accurately and consistently.

Assuming that you have securely mounted compasses, have you adjusted the lubber lines on them? In case you're not familiar with that term, a lubber line is the line on the compass that indicates your heading. This needs to be adjusted so that it lines up with the centerline of your boat or it will not indicate your heading accurately, but it's something that most paddlers never think about. The instructions that came with your compass should tell you how to align it.

Hey there,

Newbie me has just discovered I have worn heel divots in my Romany hull (first FG boat- second season)

Can some of you "old salts" (no gerentological defamation inferred) cast some knowledge my way?

1 Is this common?

Yes. Kayak manufacturers typically don't add sacrificial material the the high wear area where one's heels rest. Sand and rubber heels make a perfect tool for grinding away the resin and fiberglass

2 What are the remediation options?

If you've worn through the glass, it should be replaced, as gelcoat alone has little strength. The process is similar to any other type of fiberglass repair, with one exception. After you build the area back up, I would add an extra layer or two of fiberglass and fill the weave completely. This will be your sacrificial layer that you can renew as often as necessary.

For repair instructions, see my related albums on Webshots at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg

3 Future preventative options ?

See above

A different theory would be more in line with documented behaviour of bears.

Actually, this shark's behavior is in line with what they typically do. There are posts by a shark researcher on one of the other forums that confirm that this is exactly what she would have expected a shark to do under the circumstances. It's apparently very predictable behavior.

What I find most interesting is that that this really wasn't an "attack" per se, as great white attacks on seals, surfers and other things they perceive as prey are generally swift and violent. In this case, the shark simply grabbed the boat and didn't even shake it, which seems to indicate that it was curious and simply trying to determine if the boat was something edible or not. Sharks are known to mouth objects of all types for this reason, as their mouth is their only real way of examining anything they can't identify by sight or smell. It's too bad that there's no way to identify or track this particular fish, as I suspect that it probably won't bother kayaks in the future, now that it's learned that they aren't food.

That said, WHAT AN EXPERIENCE! I can't say that I'd want to go through it!

Getting the work area dry is vey important. Since its a hole (enclosed space) , thats a tall order, so any type of fan or vacuum will help. Applying acetone over the area will acelerate H20 evaporation, and clean the work surface too.

It's also important to remove any salt that may be in the hole. That will require rinsing it very well, then drying it thoroughly. Rinsing with water will remove the salt, then rinsing with alcohol will remove the water and speed drying.

I would go with marine epoxy over goop or silicone caulk. Once you have used silicone, no other material will work if applied over that area, and totally removing silicone is difficult. Epoxy can be sanded, painted over, more epoxy added later etc.

I agree that a sealant is not the best product for this type of repair. Use epoxy.

Although it may sound counterintuitive, using a drill to actually enlarge the hole slightly may be a good idea. It will remove any damaged material that could compromise the epoxy bond and it will reduce any tendency for cracks to form at the point of the hole. It may be easier to get patch material (epoxy) into the larger hole, as well.

Gee, it looks like I'll never find a good home for the 230cm Camano that's been gathering dust in my basement since I switched to sticks years ago.

It seems to me that the best way to handle the tire deflation issue would to do a little surveillance. A kayaker or two should park there, with someone else in another vehicl to watch the cars from a distance, where they could photograph or video record the perpetrator. Once you have that type of evidence for the police and the perpetrator ends up in court, it should put a damper on this kind of stupidity.

I saw and talked to Ernie about his Velcro Tape (hook side of the velcro tape, not fuzzy side on the bow and stern) on his boat and he has been satisfied so far with that.

I suspect that won't last. One thing that happens with the "Industrial Strength" Velcro hook is that when it gets cold, the adhesive fails and the hook peels off, leaving the adhesive behind.

I have seen them attached to the front hatch cover, FWIW.

With rubber hatches, that's not much more accurate than using Velcro.

The term you're looking for is "Wire Nuts".

I have it on two kayaks. I can vouch that it is definitely more readable than the trusty 70p. I have screwed it in, however, and I am happy with the product.

I agree that screwing it in place is the way to go, as Velcro will allow misalignment and the potential for loss if it gets whacked hard or someone steals it. If it's screwed in place, you can align it accurately and it's essentially theft proof.

“Kayakâ€, a lightweight boat that is covered, except for a single or double opening

in the center thereof, and is propelled by a paddle.

----------

It sounds like the following would be excluded:

- Any kayak with two or more hatches, since it will have three or more "openings"

- Older Brit' boats, as they're anything but "lightweight"

- Anything built by NDK, since they all weight a ton

- My old fiberglass BBK Recluse, which at something over 65# weighed more than any other single kayak I've ever seen.

On balance, the final bill seems pretty innocuous compared to the garbage that was originally proposed. Apparently, at least a few people on Beacon Hill got the message that kayakers and canoeists were sending, and exercised something rarely seen from those hallowed halls, common sense.

Now, if they would extend the PFD provision to all open boats say, under 50', they might really save some lives.

Did anyone else notice that they misspelled "flotation"? Maybe some of them did go to public schools after all.

I regret to say Brian that it is time for us to start wearing name/address tags in addition to those in our boats. Especially when traveling in unfamiliar or confusing places.

I have an address tag. It says "home", 'cause that's where I live.

BTW, the boat is a Tahe Marine Greenland.

Thanks Ed. I'd love to take a look at it sometime.

What's a label? What were we talking about, anyway? Is this the Alzheimer's forum or not???

no, her name is gail.

Oh...I don't usually name my boats.

Is that an Anas Acuta?

They will still make you a boat with OC won't they? All you need to say is pretty please and open your wallet a bit more.

They still make both versions for the same price. Not only that, but my understanding is that they will make the older versions of the AA (flat aft deck) and Pintail (original hull shape, flat aft deck) on special order. In both cases, you'd end up with the superior older design, but with modern construction, which is truly the best of both worlds.

Fact is, if I want to paddle an Anas, my only option is the keyhole version. At 6'-3" I can't get into any of the smaller Greenland style boats with ocean cockpits without scraping my kneecaps off.

Have you actually tried an ocean cockpit AA or Pintail? I've got a 35" inseam and not only can I slide right in, but I actually pad the foredeck down 3" on both my AA and Pintail. There are a lot of other people's SOFs that I can't get into and the Nordkapp with an ocean cockpit is problematic due to its high aft deck, but the AA and Pintail are easy to get into compared to most others and quite roomy once you're in.

I've paddled the AA and a few others with keyholes. The keyhole is clearly easier to get in and out of. However, I prefer the ocean cockpit for paddling. I like having support all the way across the front with no opportunity to have a thigh slip from under a support with things get bumpy and upside down.

Since I intend to spend LOT more time paddling than getting in and out of the kayak, I prefer the ocean cockpit.

My sentiments exactly. In some ways, the keyhole cockpit is a metaphor for American attitudes in general, that minor convenience takes precedence over function and we've lost our understanding of what's really important.

I also tend to feel that a large spray skirt takes up space and creates a feeling of clutter on my front deck. Some may suggest that I'm irrational on that one.

For me, it's not clutter, but the wasted "real estate" on the foredeck. That space that's wasted with a huge spray skirt is the perfect place for a chart case and a contact tow.

it's not your age. It's the Decline of Civilization.

We'll know that the end is near when the AA is no longer available when the keyhole cockpit becomes the only option.

Hi Leon,

I saw this a few years ago. I wonder if it could be a handful after the roll up when peerson just needs to stowaway and go.

It's also a one-shot deal, unless you can change CO2 cartridges in conditions or blow the thing up under water.

We tried the bow roll rescue at Lake Gardner last summer. Everyone there (including Rick S., Paula, etc) who tried it agreed that it sucked.

That's what I figured. It just doesn't make any sense as a rescue technique.

at the meeting a week back or so someone mentioned the bow roll rescue....after we do the rescues that have an application we're comfy with, we can practice that if you'd like....i personally think it's in the same category as cowboys and paddle floats....notice the bath tub like conditions and now imagine that with moving water and wind and the bow pitching about and putting your face and previously pristine pearly whites around that same pitching bow....think the whole prospect is sketchy at best.

This definitely falls into the realm of "stupid kayak tricks". I can't imagine this technique having any possibility of success in anything other than dead-flat conditions with a practiced and calm "victim", which is not what's going to happen in real life. Just imagine trying to do the same thing in beam seas with a "victim" that's thrashing or completely limp. Ain't gonna' happen! Sea Kayaker should be ashamed for publishing this nonsense!