scamlin

Folks: The MITA event in Newburyport is primarily directed at MITA members as well as friends who love and paddle in the Maine islands and support MITA's mission of stewardship. This is not really a public event if only because of space limitations. So if you are thinking of coming, you really need to RSVP as we are close to the limit. Of course, MITA welcomes the interest of NSPN members and we're glad to give you more information. Let me know if you'd like to join us this Sunday. Scott

I had good luck on short notice in Somerville at United Divers. Not cheap but very professional and done in a couple of days. If it's local for you, give them a call at their Somerville location. http://www.uniteddivers.com/ Scott

I had a similar diagnosis (ulnar nerve compression) that led to numbness, pain and (after 10 years) severe atrophy of muscles in my arms and hands. Eleven doctors and many tests later, the 'best hand surgeon in Boston' suggested relocating the nerve to inside my elbow and was ready to cut. I thought to ask him if it would cure my problem and his answer was: 'don't ask me, I'm only the surgeon.' The point is: make sure you get a second opinion, preferably from someone other than a surgeon to make sure other causes are conclusively ruled out. The risks for this procedure are small, but they are there, so it pays to be sure. In my case, the good surgeon did graciously recommend a great (and for me fourth) neurologist who finally correctly diagnosed my syndrome (nothing to do with the ulnar nerve). Two visits to the physical therapist, and a year of gradual recovery and I had 80-90% of my hand strength back. Good luck. Scott

Bethany: About a year ago, there was an article in Sea Kayaker magazine on increasing breath holding capacity via structured training. I remember the author calling it pyramid training and claiming you could increase holding time by a factor of three or more with several weeks training. If you're interested, I'm happy to dig around and try to find it. That much said, breath capacity not the most important thing in combat rolling (i.e. unexpetedly for real rather than planned practice). One quick suggestion: if you've failed to come up once or twice, a quick dog paddle near the surface with one hand is often enough to grab a quick breath. The mental part is really the key. And practice in conditions the path. Scott

David: A delayed response (dial up only in GA): Since Jed and you have outlined the factors involved, I'll try to keep my response simple. My memory of Jed's explanation was that a boat in motion tends to lock in the leading end while turbulence makes the trailing end easier to move sideways. My attempt to straighten out the veer was to lean waaayyyy back (thus locking in the stern even deeper) and digging in at the stern and sweeping out only about a third of the sweep (where the boat won't move). This frantic sweeping had no effect on the veer except to accelerate the boat, making the veer worse. Jed's advice (as I remember it)? Lean forward to unweight the stern and lock in the bow a bit, and sweep the third toward the bow where the turbulence makes the water 'loose'. Solved my problem. By the way, I've found edging helps maintain the straight line, but won't by itself straighten the boat once it starts to veer. The effect of edging on the DIRECTION of turn is quite modest, especially compared to the momentum of a turn. The main effect of edging on turns is to shorten the waterline, which allows an easier turn. For minor deviations and not a lot of speed, edging will gradually turn a boat back on course. But once a turn is well under way, an edge on EITHER side will only accelerate the turn. Try it and see for yourself.

Brian: Good solution, but sealing the DC input port would make it difficult to use the cigarette lighter adapter to recharge on the road. I've found that a plus when on remote trips where the rental car is the only source of power. Or overseas when you don't have an adapter for the local plugs. Scott

Rick: I think Nigel said that the one at his center is Pete's FIRST kayak, the one that sprang the leak. Nigel bought it, well, just because it is a historic kayak. Not sure where the second one is, the one that made it to Ireland. Scott

I too have wide feet (EE) with a narrow heel. I swear by NRS Kickers: low cut, 3mm neoprene, plastic shim in sole, fit in most boats. They even have them at fire sale prices in Mens/Unisex sizes 4-6 for $14.95: http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfi...327&deptid=1141 For the 5mm, high cut version of the boot, albeit at full price, see: http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2315&deptid=1169 No Scandanavian blood unless you count the genes scattered by Vikings across Great Britian 1000-1200 years ago. Scott

Congratulations are in order for those who passed: well done! It represents a lot of dedicated practice. And kudos to those who are still working on their strokes. I didn't pass the first time I took the test and didn't deserve to since I didn't execute two of the strokes properly. The list of those who had to retake BCU tests at MIKCO is a long and honorable one, including some on their staff. As as several have pointed out, the atmosphere of testing at MIKCO is not to pass the hurdle, but to guide the learning. I learned from the MIKCO staff and also from fellow club members. I practiced in the company of NSPN paddlers. And it was Jed who finally showed me the secret of how to correct a full speed backwards paddle when it starts to veer off course, which allowed me to pass 3*. That was what I found valuable: not the certification but the structure to focus on what needs improvement and the discipline to do it. Best luck to Paula, Christopher and Suz...and anyone else going for it this weekend. Scott

Al: Yep, 3mm is standard and for good reason: it's the minimum you need in water colder that 60 degrees. The flexibility issue is really not an factor with Farmer John's since the arms are unencumbered. A Farmer John covers the torso and groin, two regions vulnerable to chilling. A full wetsuit jacket may be suitable for rafting or winter surfing/windsurfing, but not paddling. One reason NRS wetsuits are a standard (I recommend them highly) is that the two-way zipper goes WAY down, making relief while wearing a PFD and spray skirt, even in a boat, a simple process. NRS also has a an Expedition Jane model with a strategically placed relief zipper that women rave about. Be aware, however, that any Farmer John solves the flexibility problem by creating another: flushing of cold water around the armpits, down the back, etc. That's why a Farmer John--any wetsuit for that matter--needs to have a TIGHT fit. It should feel a bit like a corset or girdle: a bit springly and without gaps. And why it won't really protect you unless you have a way to minimize the flushing around your torso. A paddle jacket or drytop with good seals on the wrists and neck will do this. They won't keep you dry once you go swimming in a capsize (the waist is always a weak point) but even if the suit gets flooded, the jacket/drytop will allow that water to warm up and keep you relatively safe (though not warm). I have four or five hydroskin garmets and wear them all summer. But while comfortable, Hydroskin is only .5 mm of neoprene and will not give anywhere near the protection from hypothermia as 3 mm. It's simple physics. Ditto for the fleece alternatives such as Henderson: they simply are not substitutes for 3mm neoprene IN THE WATER. Don't believe the claims. Remember also that almost all wetsuit neoprene has a outer nylon skin. Nylon is a great evaporator of water and wet neoprene will chill rapidly (latent heat for the technical types), which is why wetsuits are not great cold weather gear in the air. (Urethane coated neoprene such as the NRS Mystery Shirt Jill cites is an exception). This is not an issue in the water, the main concern of paddlers, but can be an issue if you depend soley on a wetsuit to keep you warm while in the boat. Case in point: over Labor Day, I was surprised to get mildly hypothermic on a sunny afternoon in the 60's wearing a long sleeve NRS Hydroskin top under a PFD. The water was over 70 degrees, but all it took was a few mild splashes and a 10-12+ KT wind for two hours. My fingers were so numb, I could barely fasten the straps on my roof rack after the paddle. A polyester base layer would have helped; a paddle jacket over the Hydroskin would have been even better. The key is to get a windproof layer over the neoprene for the wind; neoprene is designed chiefly to limit heat loss in the water.

MTI has a low tech "Angler" model with big pockets but not much else http://mtiadventurewear.com/Products/PFDs//Multi/1Angler.htm Check out their Rescue series: you can take off the tow belt and use the rest. Palm used to make a five-pocket model (the Ocean?) that included a large emergency pouch on the back. I left mine at Walden Pond one practice session, never to be seen again. Can't find anything similar for Palm today. Most of the models seem to be going to the low slung 'action' style with little room for pockets. Scott

John: The way to raise the issue whether the club can officially take a position on this (or any public issue) is to get it in front of the board. Contact Mike Crouse (President) or any board member and ask them to put it on the agenda; club members can present things to the board themselves if appropriate. See the "Contact Us" link at the top of the NSPN page (above). Taking the initiative to form a group, discussion board, meeting or whatever does NOT need board approval. In fact, it's in the spirit of the club for members to step up and take action, subject only to whether you can convince/attract others...including the board. Scott

David: Yes, I think it is worth it, but only--as you indicate--for the barometer. I base the recommendation on getting an earlier version of the Pathfinder. Opinions follow: 1. The important function is the barometer. The Casio has the very useful feature of sampling atmospheric pressure every 2 hours and graphing it over the past 18 hours, so you can see the trend line. The sampling rate and period are about right in my opinion: the Timex watches do it every minute or two (unnecessary and way too much battery drain)and while they store data, you have to retrieve it reading by reading. The key thing on the water is the trend, which indicates changing weather. A barometer really becomes necessary on an expedition in an area where you do not have access to radio weather forecasts. I use it regularly but really to educate myself on the weather: with it, I can correlate what I see with trends and levels of pressure. 2. I find the thermometer is useless when worn: body heat throws it off by 5-15 degrees, depending on air temperature, what what you are wearing, and whether you are dunking it into the water as you paddle. The worst is you don't know the size of the error so you can't compensate. It is accurate only when off your wrist, which may have some value. 3. The compass could be useful in a pinch and maybe convenient, but I question how much. It seems you'd have to stop and hold it steady and level to work accurately. More importantly, if my experience with my GPS is any guide, enabling the compass feature comsumes battery life rapidly. I wouldn't want to depend on this as my backup compass or for that matter anything electronic. You should have a compass mounted on your deck for travel anyway and a cheap backpacker compass in your PFD pocket that would provide backup (and doesn't need batteries to work). 4. Tides might actually be useful on a longer trips but you'd have to know how accurate it was and how many places are covered. For day trips, you can look it up before you leave home. I wouldn't pay much for this feature. 5. The most important feature is: telling time. Knowing the time and the elapsed time can be useful and in some cases critical information for safe travel. Examples: time of tide and current changes, navigation (dead reckoning), estimated speeds, time before it gets dark, time to turn around, estimating position of lost paddlers, search and rescue information, coordinating radio calls, getting weather forecasts, identifying lights, meeting other parties, etc. Frankly, telling time is the only really critical function you need on your wrist. 6. When buying watches for kayaking, look at a waterproof rating of at least 100 meters. You can find them starting in the $50+ range when discounted. Some last only a couple of seasons before the water catches up with them, but I have others which are still going strong after 3-4 seasons. I would not take a chance on a 50 meter watch like the Timex offerings: they are barely adequate for washing dishes. On anything beyond a day trip, I carry an inexpensive spare watch in case the one on my wrist fails. 7. I like an analog watch for time with an LCD/digital alarm and other functions. Analog watches usually come with a crown, which is vulnerable to water intrusion. The expensive watches solve this with screw down stems, but watches in the $100 range do not have this feature. The LCD analog hands on the Pathfinder David found may be a good compromise, but if you regularly need the backlighting to see the hands, it will consume a lot of battery life. As for Casio watches, I've had relatively good luck with them: relatively cheap with lots of features and you don't cry too much when it dies or you lose it. I've bought four over the past 7 years of kayaking and two are still working. Two more tips: First, rinse your watch religiously in fresh water (no soap!) after every outing, especially if it has sensors such as a barometer. I slosh vigorously and blow the water out of the little screened place on the sensor. I can often taste a little salt coming out, evidence that the crud you don't want in there, gets in there and could build up. Second, get your batteries changed before long trips. I had one die the first day on a three week trip in Canada. (I burned a half a day trying to find batteries and ended up buying another watch when they couldn't find the second battery in the watch case). I had another die a few days before the trip to Shetland this year and was lucky to have a chance to replace it here. When you get your batteries changed, make sure to get a real watchmaker who knows how to open and reseal the case on a waterproof watch. This is not an operation for a drug store clerk. You can have the seal tested after the battery is replaced, but it costs about $10 where I go. My concern with the power consumption of fancy features is not so much the cost (although it ain't cheap) and the hassle (of getting to the watch store) to replace batteries. Rather it is reliability: not having the watch go dead in the middle of a trip or compromising the waterproof seal by frequent replacement of the battery. One last tip: if you are over 40, bring reading glasses as some of the labels and LCD symbols are truly microscopic. I am reminded of this every time I can't figure out what mode it's in and the damn alarm goes off at 2 AM. Scott

Suz: Lest you think I am completely anal or don't have a life, my rinsing of the strobe is pretty automatic: it's attached to the PFD so when the PFD gets rinsed, the strobe gets rinsed. While we're on the topic: To rinse gear, I have a large plastic tub ($7 at Bradlees which I guess is out of business). I toss all the gear in the tub while the hose is running. I let the gear soak while I'm washing down the boat. Then I slosh and toss into another smaller tub, drain the water out (less weight) and carry it to the garage where I let it drip dry. Benefits compared to hosing each piece: 1. A lot easier. 2. I stay drier. 3. Use a lot less water. 4. Soaking for several minutes loosens salt and crud, resulting in cleaner gear. Actually, soaking does all the work. I do not use any soaps or disinfectants as they end up in the groundwater. No real smell problems as long as gear is rinsed (salt water harbors lots of nasty bugs) and dried thoroughly (moisture is necessary for bug breeding).

Rick: Like Suz, I use the ACR C-Strobe and it's running light cousin with the clear plastic focusing lens on top. Both have lived on my PFS and both have been bombproof for 4 years. That said, I've never had to use the strobe and have only used the running light a couple of times. I rinse all gear in fresh water after use. I test the strobe and light about once a month, mostly for the battery. Never had a problem. I do carry an extra of each in my emergency ditty bag as a back up. I keep meaning to find a good grease to lube the O-ring, the only thing aside from battery leakage that would seem to be at risk. The grease would both protect the rubber/plastic and help maintain the seal. I'd welcome suggestions for a good grease for this and other similar applications (like the rubber plug on the AC charging port on my Standard HX406S VHF radio). Scott

I dunno, Rick: the get up he's wearing looks like a monk's robe and with the beard and the intense stare, it appears he's taken some kind of vow. Wales may have Euro paddles, but they practice strange rites, live in spartan quarters and drink strong brews. Seems to me he's a goner. So watch out for your brethern over there and make sure he gets back in one piece.

I too was taught early on to not cross the center line of the kayak with the upper hand, but multiple coaches have worked to undo that advice. However, there is a grain of truth in the old school teaching: not crossing the center line is a indirect way to limit paddle travel past the hips. So the effect of crossing the center line depends on what the paddle blade is doing in the meanwhile: if it's traveling out to the side for follow through and an exit, then fine. If it's traveling back and up or back and under the boat, then it's not so effective. To extend Andrew's point about shaft angle: I find the side exit works both for a touring stroke (less than 45 degrees) as well as a high angle racing (or fast touring) stroke. I'm curious if others observe the following effect: on the high-angle strokes, I find my shaft stays at the same angle and sweeps sideways for the last foot or so of the stroke. To make this work, both arms are swinging in parallel to the side from the shoulders and the upper hand definitely crosses the centerline. I'm thinking this helps keep the paddle plade closer to an optimum angle (vertical and perpendicular to the stroke but angling out away from the hull). I can't help noticing this motion looks suspiciously like a wing stroke. The point about exit being a natural extension of follow through is, I think, the correct concept rather than a flick (as I had posted). I have had coaches teach the flick by dropping the upper hand; it gets the blade out of the water at the hips, but is less than optimum for positioning the blade for the catch on the next stroke. I think you want the entry of the blade as vertical as possible while still being out in front as possible (for the power phase Andrew pointed out), something that you can't do with the now on-side hand low as a result of the flick on the previous stroke. So as the upper hand transitions to the on-side, power hand, it stays relatively high--just below shoulder level in my experience--so it is in a good position to come down for the catch on the next stroke. If you start the catch with the on-side hand low, you either have to raise it again, take a fairly short stroke with entry by the knees or suffer a relatively spashy horizontal entry. Am I on the right track? For those who have used the wing paddle, how is it different from what has been described in this thread?

I believe Brian used a 12 oz. cloth. (The cloth and many other supplies and tools were generously contributed by Michael Brokenshire as neither Brian or I had brought anything). I was amazed how well five layers of this relatively heavy cloth fit in the feathered hole Brian created. To be clear: one layer with resin was applied first from the inside overlapping the edges and supported by the milk jug plastic and a foam seat. There were five layers applied from the outside onto the inner layer and the feathered edges of the hole, each patch slightly smaller than the previous (see photos). Brian kept mumbling he had room for one or two more patches and could have saved some of the buildup of gelcoat later on. The trick is to build up the fiberglass/resin matrix to near but still below the eventual surface of the gelcoat. If it's too high, no big deal as you can sand the fiberglass/resin down as needed. Too low, and you just need more layers of gelcoat. To me, the key to a successful, strong, even beautiful patch was the form provided by the plastic cut from the milk carton and supported by a blow up foam seat wedged beside the seat. It maintained the contour of the chine and gave a solid base for the cloth layers as they were laid down. The milk jug plastic released easily: it did not stick. Only if you get some resin oozing around and on top of the plastic would it stick slightly, but without glass, resin doesn't have much strength. We only had to sand down some minor ridges around the edge (sparing use of resin helped). Very slick repair by Dr. Nystrom. I learned a lot by watching: fundmental principles (e.g. good support for the patch to maintain the contour), knowledge (e.g. how much hardner to add), experience (e.g. what the gelcoat does when it 'kicks') and improvisation (e.g. create 'forms' out of packing tape to build up gelcoat on the keel). I want to publically thank Brian for the repair, but more importantly for taking me to school. Scott Surgical Assistant and Photographer

I don't have the race experience, so I'll defer to the experts on the wing stroke. But I have been taught that regardless of style, you should remove the blade from the water when it is about even with the hips--a lot sooner than most paddlers do. The reason is that there is very little additional forward propulsion after the hips, particularly as most paddlers are lifting the blade at that point. The resistance of the paddle feels like it is adding a lot to the speed of the boat, but if you observe other paddlers doing it, you will see they are in effect merely lifting about a gallon of water straight up into the air. Not only is this wasted motion, it actually is pulling the boat deeper into the water, increasing the underwater profile of the boat and the accompanying drag. The bobbing motion may also create some turbulence. Other paddlers sort of spear the blade downward at an angle to the rear or hook the paddle in towards or even under the boat. Again, it feels effective, but has little or possibly a detrimental effect on forward motion of the boat. JP, the guru instructor at MIKCO several years ago taught us to flick the paddle out to the side by swinging the arms from the shoulder without flexing the elbows, rather than lift the blade up (which can be done only by bending the elbows). This works with either a fairly high angle shaft or a more relaxed 45 degree shaft. JP used to coach the Welsh national racing team, so I've always assumed this was a sort of wing paddle influenced racing technique, though adapted to the euro paddle. All I know is that it works as a fast touring stroke. The real propulsion is in the first foot or so of the stroke, particularly if you reach way forward by the toes and get the blade all the way in the water. Of course, you need a lot of torso rotation to do this, but that's another story... Hope this helps. Ken? Andrew?

Actually, when you're in front of the fire, fire up the movie at the link and look at the mechanics of the stroke. This is a good object lesson for a forward stroke, one you can actually see because it's not inside the boat. Points to Note: Knees pumping Torso rotation--check the shoulders Subtle rocking and dipping of hips--driven by knees and rotation Straight wrists--neither laterial bending or rolling While elbows are bent slightly, they do not flex during the stroke Blade exit to the side, not back Only slight critique is that blade entry is back behind the knees, rather than out by the toes where it belongs Good mechanics whether you are racing or touring Scott

Because of the loose fit, it's much more comfortable--as in not as tight. You just don't get the tight around the middle feeling. Also, less resistance when leaning and rotating. The rim of the skirt is much softer and has a naked neoprene (skin out) finish, so it is very watertight. Also, there is a reverse seam at the rim with a separate 2" piece that goes under the rim, making the seal that much more watertight. On the other hand, there is more material kind of bunching up under the PFS and around the cockpit opening which you can get used to or it can seem, well like a lot of stuff around your waist. Also, I found it took a bit of practice to get the rear seal started on the cockpit when putting it on: it's more of a delicate operation to find the rim under all the material and get it positioned. Not really a problem with practice, but I'm more used to grab and snap on. Did not have problems with water pooling as it slants out from under the PFD.

I'll second Brian's good words for BushSport and Quasar skirts: I have one of each and found them good, no frills solutions. The BushSport is a little lighter and strechier: easier to get on, but won't stay on a my plastic Avocet. The Quasar is more of a white water grade skirt, heavier and stiffer to snap on (Beth won't use it for this reason), but it has stood up and fits very well. I got both at MIKCO. Way too many rescue practice sessions have taken their toll, however, by cutting the neoprene between the rim of the cockpit and the boat being rescued. The BushSport (which is older) also cut through at the rim near the grab loop. I gooped it togther with AquaSeal: it ain't pretty but is still going strong. The Quasar (newer and heavier) is standing up better but its many small cuts from rescues need to be hit with AquaSeal before they cut all the way through. There are reinforced skirts available: some kind of rubber layer inside and/or outside to limit just this kind of damage. Besides the additional cost, however, these kind of skirts can be a bit more difficult to put on and remove as they are stickier. This is more noticeable with glass boats; plastic is so slippery that the sticky rubber helps. Would be interested in hearing from those with reinforced skirts: ease of on/off and wear. Scott

Karen: The group buy was organized by Jeff Casey and somebody else. We all got copies of the receipt showing all the radios. If you need one, there are over 20 of us who (should) have copies. There was no serial number, so any copy will do to prove you bought it. I believe it was bought at West Marine in NH. I also believe that you can return it to any West Marine for an exchange...assuming it is within the warantee period. We bought them in March/April 2003, so it's probably out of warantee (I remember it was a year). No harm in trying at a retail store: they are very responsive. If not, Brian is right: you're dealing with the factory. Scott

Keep'em coming... Scott

Thanks for some great writing and a peek through the tear in the wetsuit to the people inside. We're blessed with many who are paying attention. Scott