David M

Warren, Huge congrats! You worked hard for this. It was fun watching you prep and integrate the Alaska experience into the process. You rock! David

Many congrats... rock and roll!

I have to admit it’s with some sadness that I read Warren’s final post. Great job! I have been living and reliving the experience as I’ve traveled on business this week and have been able to sneak peeks at the unfolding narrative. The following supplements to the trip report may be more of a personal journal with accompanying takeaways so - readers beware. I’ve used categories to keep my otherwise random and myriad thoughts somewhat containerized. Because of a camera failure early on, I am relying on Warren’s wonderful pictures. Consequently, the reader is left with only my words and they somehow have evolved into many. My apologies are offered in advance. By way of context I am a relative newcomer to the kayak community, with limited kayak camping experience but when the opportunity presented itself early in January I jumped at it and continued what was already feeling like a pretty steep learning curve. I had purchased my first boat in 2010 for what I thought then was the sole purpose of exercise on local fresh water lakes. As an above knee amputee of some 30 years, finding exercise outlets that required minimal leg involvement have been a constant quest. I naively assumed that kayaking was all about upper body. Also, I had no interest in the ocean. All of that was to change. Preparation: In the second year of my kayak career I was introduced to the concept that there was much more to kayaking then met the eye. Safety issues, the synthesis of body, boat and blade combined with the challenge of the ocean environment all convinced me that I needed help. I was introduced to the BCU system and pursued formal coaching. Suz Hutchinson did a wonderful job of providing a strong foundation, assisting in reforming some bad self-styled habits and instilling in me a love and healthy addiction to the sport. John Carmody has continued that process through 2*,3* and 4* training. There was also significant peer learning along the way from friends and NSPN members, many times one in the same. A trip like the Prince William Sound (PWS) trip was two years ahead of my personal plan but because of the investment of others I was able to board the plane for Anchorage feeling well prepared. The Plan: The plan was to paddle from Valdez to Whittier on PWS. There were no pullouts or restocking options in between. It is true wilderness. High on the list were exploring glaciers close up and taking in all that PWS has to offer. The draft plan developed by Warren with input from the rest of the team and a final vetting by our local escort/guide was framed around a 12 day trip (11 nights) with allowance for 2 weather days at an estimated 140 nautical miles (nm). The GPS indicated 140.55 nm at takeout, a testament to Warren’s planning! Escort/Guide Services: Our escort was Ryan Collins of Paddlers Realm www.paddlersrealm.com . Ryan is the consummate professional. His extraordinary leadership skills, strong kayaking skills (BCU and ACA) blended with local knowledge and an easy going manner of facilitating group conversation were significant factors adding to the team’s success. He communicates clearly and was also ready to transfer skills such as bear-hangs, water collection and purification and much more. His degree in philosophy and prolific knowledge of the Seinfeld TV series added to the humor and never ending conversations at both breakfast and dinner. He also has access to both NDK and P&H boats! Paddlers Realm’s website differentiates between guided and escorted (this trip) services. The essential differences are that in an escorted trip each participant is expected to minimally paddle at the BCU 3* level, supply their own kayak safety equipment, dry suit and water-proof tent and land-based clothing. In addition, the escorted team has significant input into the route and navigation planning. The PWS Team: In addition to Ryan the team of 4 included: Beth from Alaska, Michael from New Jersey and Warren and me from NSPN. All contributed immensely to the harmony and success of the team. Attesting to this is the fact that after spending 12 days in close quarters, we chose to do dinner in Anchorage a day after getting off the water. It was four hours filled with laughter and reminiscing. PWS Overview (source PWS: A Travelers Guide, Holleman, M.): Size: 10,000 square miles Location: 60 degrees Lat. in South Central Alaska, 60 miles east of Anchorage, 300 miles northwest of Juneau Geological content: We passed through 2 distinct geological zones: sedimentary and basalt each with remarkable shoreline presentations. Features: 3,500 miles of heavily convoluted shoreline, more than 150 glaciers, 34 major islands and hundreds of smaller islands Precipitation: Average of 200 inches per year. Navigation: Trip planning involved numerous resources including nautical charts, NOAA tide and current info, Google Earth and National Geographic hiking maps. On the water we combined hand railing, pilotage and chart work and map references. Key differences navigating in PWS were both the eastern variation and the relative small number of aids to navigation. We only encountered a handful on this trip. In addition, we needed a resource to assist in locating sources of water. For that reason and others the team referenced both charts and maps (see below). Daily tide information was readily available for Valdez and Whittier and was extrapolated to the particular days journey. Currents with the exception of narrow passages such as the approach to the Shoup Glacier were inconsequential in this area of PWS. The team had regular evening debriefs that also included projected next day plans. The daily trip plan with weather (great VHS access throughout PWS), potential hazards and contingencies was agreed to in the morning before launch. This was often incorporated into the normal breakfast chatter. The tide information turned out to be critical in that more often than not our camping spots were adjacent to the “beach” and any miscalculation would potentially result in a soggy night at least. Fortunately our use of various measures not the least of which was the Rule of Twelfths allowed us to project safe and dry camping spots. I found myself applying the principle at several of our lunch stops playing a game with Mother Nature on whether I could predict how far I had to haul my boat. Additionally, at about midpoint in the trip we had both a full moon and lunar perigee. The tidal range was in excess of 17 feet. We discussed our location carefully that evening! Nautical Charts: 16700, 16708, 16713, 16712, 16705 National Geographic Trails Illustrated Maps: Prince William Sound East, Prince William Sound West Additional Resources: Kayaking and Camping in Prince William Sound, Twardock, P., Cruising Guide to Prince William Sound, Lethcoe, N. & J. Weather: PWS winds tend to be influenced by the general circulation from the Gulf of Alaska. Occasional summer lows create moderate to strong winds from the south, southeast or east. Winds in the sound are locally variable in direction and strength. Local variations in temperatures (think glaciers) often create local winds that can overpower the general circulation. Ridges, valleys, islands and passages of steep sided fiords channel and block general wind circulation. Average highs were in the mid-50’s with some 60’s and average lows in the 40’s. Water temps were in the high 40’s with water temps near the glaciers in the high 30’s. While the prevailing winds are typically southwest in PWS, Ryan proposed the westerly trip from Valdez to Whittier to accommodate for paddling in low systems with the prevailing winds more to our favor. I actually found the weather delightful, including the torrential rain we experienced for multiple days. After all, it was no surprise. I tend to melt so the cooler temps especially the climate/weather systems around the glaciers were welcome. Personally, attitude was as much an antidote to the weather as our high-tech materials. I went into the trip expecting that we could have as much as 12 days of steady rain and was looking forward to managing its effects. However, I have to give due credit to the gear. Storm cag, dry suit, paddling hat, tent, rain gear (hat, jacket and pants) and boots all performed as advertised. Several times I used www.outdoorgearlab.com (a backpacker’s site) to research camping gear and non-paddling clothing. Kayak: I’m somewhat superstitious or preferential in my habits. I wanted to duplicate as much of what I was used to as possible. I rationalize that some of that feeling is less than neurotic in that the Cetus accommodates my prosthetic paddling limb very well. I felt fortunate in both being able to paddle a Cetus MV and I had purchased a 4 piece Werner Cyprus to travel so life on the water was all good. Water: My very limited camping experience did not require collecting and purifying water. PWS has an abundance of glacier fed streams and waterfalls. Ryan schooled us in the collection and purification of ample water. In addition, the simple tarp method of capturing rainwater worked like a charm. We regularly carried about 60 liters between us. We used both Warren’s and Ryan’s Katadyn Base Camp Water Filter. It is a gravity system with a capacity of 5 gallons and a fast flow rate. Meal Planning: The plan called for each team member to be responsible for their own breakfast, lunch and snacks. Each team member would prepare 2 group meals. Our group meals included some great tasting manufactured dehydrated meals and home brew where folks had dehydrated their own concoctions. We enjoyed Mexican, Italian and a range of other options. Of note was the fact that even the seemingly smallest contribution went a long way… wild salmon to enhance a dehydrated meal with salmon base, tequila and lemonade aka Margarita on Mexican night, having to sing for your meal, mystery chocolate offerings, a stash of wine at key points of deprivation along the way and… even a “Thanksgiving Feast” prepared by Ryan on our final night with all the trimmings. We ate very well. As most meals were water based the combination of the Jet Boil and MSR systems allowed us to boil lots of water very quickly. Coffee was available early, always a necessity and the group meals were prepped so we were all able to eat a warm meal together. Kayak Packing: I knew this would be a challenge. First of all, where does all this stuff fit!?!? Second, how could I efficiently empty the boat each evening, and set up camp, only to repeat a reverse of the process the next morning. To a seasoned kayak camper this was no big deal. I must have conducted mulitple test-packs carefully weighing each dry bag. I determined that my Cetus performed best if I distributed the additional weight (100lbs) roughly 35% to the front, 25% to the cockpit and 40% to the rear. I scoured the internet and talked to folks all in an attempt to establish an effective routine. Did I say I can become obsessive?! I finally established my own system. With 4 hatches (front, mini in front of the cockpit, day hatch and oval rear hatch) in the Cetus I chose dry bags in 3 different colors for each of the larger hatches: blue for the front, yellow for the rear and yellow striped (created these with a sharpie) for the day hatch. I used the mini hatch for electronics, daily snacks and a few emergency items. I selected Seal Line Kodiak Window 5-liter dry bags. My sleeping bag and tent were packed in OR compression drybags. I used a Kayak Academy tapered bow bag for my clothing. My objectives also included having my spare paddle as the only item on deck. The combination of the different colors, labeling and windows made for smooth land/water transitions. Additionally, I packed my tent in front of the cockpit foot pegs and had a 4 liter dromedary between my legs, one behind my seat and another in my day hatch to centralize the weight to the cockpit as much as possible. The bulk of the food was packed in the rear hatch. The system worked well and the boat did not appreciably weather or lee-cock. The group divided: bear hangs, fuel, poop shovels, and the group shelter. Supplemental Comments to Warren’s report: 1. Valued the bear management and spray training provided in Valdez. While we couldn't take the spray canister on the plane, I did purchase my own “holster” as a souvenir. 2. The GPS recorded our speed at 9.2 knots coming out of the narrow passage from the Shoup Glacier on day 2. I was still adjusting to the handling characteristics of my loaded boat so I was a bit on edge. Once through it however I wanted to turn around and do it again! 3. In negotiating Valdez narrows I lost count of the number of fishing boats actively engaged in setting their nets. On at least two occasions Ryan approached the boats and asked if we could paddle over their nets. They reached for quite a distance. Not in your life would I have done that without local input. 4. I’ve lost count of how many times I would say “Hey Bear, Hey Bear” when landing or walking through the woods. 5. The explosive rumble of glaciers calving is awesome. 6. Warren said it but the wildlife was off the charts: moose, black bears, puffins, humpback whales, porpoises, harbor seals, river otters, sea otters, porcupines, stellar sea lions, black oyster catchers, belted kingfisher, harlequin ducks, tundra red backed vole, pigeon guillemots, bald eagles, kittiwake black legged gulls, hermit thrush, loons and on and on. (Detail provided by Beth. She is an avid admirer of all things wild and botanical. Her commentary was a true value-added to the trip.) 7. The extra daylight (sunset 11ish, sunrise 5ish) allowed significant flexibility. Longer breakfasts, extending our paddles on a couple of days and a more leisurely approach to ending the day were all a part of it. 8. I was going to attempt to enter the laundry list of plants that Beth identified, but given she identified many of them with their Latin names; I can’t even begin to spell them. Suffice it to say it was a huge education. It gave me a literal wakeup call to stop, and yes you guessed it… smell the roses. 9. While we maintained more than a very respectful distance to the Stellar Sea Lions they apparently didn’t get the memo. It was a bit disconcerting. I’m not sure if the rest of the team believes me, but I really did get bumped 4 times in succession on the bottom of my boat right under the seat. Maybe it was just flirtation. 10. While we encountered some challenging sea states (in predictable places) as the pictures indicate we also had more than our fair share of calmer waters. 11. The group shelter (see pics) turned out to be one of the most valuable pieces of equipment. I can’t begin to imagine what the bugs would have been like. During the heavy rain on the day we stayed off the water we spent the vast majority of the day, waxing philosophical in relative comfort. Inquiring about the manufacturer unfortunately it was made by a woman in a cottage industry some 25 years ago. It was little used and in excellent condition. 12. The head net took some getting used to. I lost track of how many times I found myself trying to jam my toothbrush through the mesh. 13. I’ll provide comments on the SPOT device once I have had the opportunity to play with the tracking and conceivable include our track as a link. Notes to Self: 1. Take more extended day trips in the future. 2. Electrician’s tape on the fingers does work for blister control/prevention when gloves are not preferred. 3. I had 2 partially filled 5 liter bags of trash/waste at the end of the trip. Next time consider repackaging to minimize waste. 4. Get more IKEA bags. They work! 5. A small piece of a plastic table cloth civilized feel when prepping meals. 6. The effectiveness of a well-functioning team is directly proportional to open communication, problem solving and complimenting the strengths and limitations. 7. Remember to thank the many folks that helped me prepare for this trip. Finally: So there you are, my ramblings are complete. If you have made it to the end… congrats! This was an incredible journey that I feel fortunate to have made but there is one last item and it needs to be done in public. I have to thank my dear friend Warren Parlee who invested heavily in bringing me up to speed on all things Alaska and PWS and camping in a very wet environment. We had innumerable conversations on gear, mindset and success criteria. As we both jokingly put it Warren took me on as “a project” to make sure I was ready and able to fully engage and enjoy the trip. Thanks Warren, in true NSPN spirit, you’ve truly demonstrated the value of paying forward by investing in others!

Folks, I returned from the Alaska trip and had less than 24 hours before leaving for a business trip. I plan on addding some to the developing narrative on the weekend. In the meantime I've loved following the thread. Warren you're dong a great job at capturing our journey. It was a wonderful trip with much to take in and learn. In all candor I should point out that some of the SPOTs perceived errors were in fact user induced. I'll explain later. David PS: Pru, I don't think there was a day that I didn't think of you as I settled into my white and green cetus sans the bear.

Folks, turns out I need to paddle closer to home. Looks like a wonderful day! Enjoy David

I will do the L3. David

Doug, I'm also so grateful for your efforts in putting these together. Thanks! Notwithstanding my weekend travel schedule, I would have to say that the couple of times Ipswich was an option the time was the major factor in not attending. The Haverhill time worked perfectly when I was in town. In my case Portsmouth is a real plus. See you on the water. David

Doug, the Olympus looks like a great option. I'm doing a two week trip to Alaska in early July so I pulled the trigger to get familiar with the camera. I purchased it from B and H Photo in NY. We do a lot of work related purchases with them. I ended up grabbing a three year protection plan covering "water immersion and drops." I'm also looking at Salt-away thanks to this thread and an Aquapac cover. I suppose that's a bit obsessive with a "waterproof" camera. Thanks to all for the good conversation.

That's a great point Nancy. There was at least one mention of a barrier/case above. What has the experience been with neoprene or other cases? Any recommendations?

Folks, Can't thank you enough for the input it was very helpful sorting things out. I'm a week or so away from pulling the trigger. Seems like spring should be just around the corner. Looks like its going to be the Panasonic TS5. Thanks again.

Looking to purchase a new "waterproof" digital camera in the $300 range. I've spent a number of hours reviewing various online forums and comparisons. I've now narrowed that list down to three. Would very much appreciate input on the following or personal experience outside of this list. Olympus TG-2; Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS5; Pentax Optio WG-3. My initial considerations are overall durability in the saltwater environment, ease of use and still picture quality. I currently use a Contour Roam for video. Thanks in advance for the good conversation. David

Totally agree with Rob on all counts. Invaluable exercise. In fact, on closer inspection of my suit this morning I found one vulnerable spot on the edge of my neck gasket. The information shared last evening allowed me to assess and consider my options. In the past it would have already been on its way to Kokatat. Thanks Suz!

I can do the 8th or 9th with a preference for the 9th.

Definitely interested!

Kevin, Read this too late during a break from cleaning my office. I have to get my priorities straight. David

Folks, I appreciate this input. Its helped me sort some things out. I too want to avoid becoming a human pyrotechnic, yet be ready should the circumstances dictate. I had actually purchased a laser flare on an impulse buy http://www.greatlandlaser.com/ some months ago and stowed it in my kit. This exchange prompted me to go to the website and review the product. I also found numerous reviews online. I'm going to increase my familiarity with the laser including its aim. Bill and others, do you recommend one personal locator beacon over another? Same for the Solas strobe? Thanks much!

I'm looking to update my safety kit to include some day and night signaling e.g flares and smoke. Are there any recommendations/experiences on the various types and sources of both? Look forward to the conversation.

Great news. Looking forward to it!

Peter, I am definitely up for this. David

Count me in.

Sounds like a great opportunity. I plan on attending. David