subaruguru

I know, I know. It's just a whatever-length aided by a tuned coil. I used to have to build them to trim long ham antennas as a kid too. Basically a box of coils and switches so that one could use a fixed-length antenna for different wavelengths, "tuning" its electrical length easily. Beats getting on a ladder in the winter or in a storm! I just noticed that the Standard Horizon I have has an exposed 7" flex-whip...probably extended 2-3 inches into the body, totaling about 9.5", or a 1/8 WL. Is it then "goosed" with a coil or some other means? Dunno. To cut to the chase: I simply wonder if using a true 1/4 WV (19") would significantly improve reach, and therefore reduce battery usage too? I could imagine some kind of waterproof "extender" that could pull out and extend the existing 7" to 16" (+ 2.5" in the base)? Or an upside-down "J" that could loop GENTLY around one's neck? Ok ok.... I'm discussing this very topic with the clowns on an auto site who are comparing cute stubby antennae. I just killed an hour comparing sensitivity vs antenna length using FM (88-108...not too far from our 146MHz) and an efficient and reproducible capture ratio used by the seek function of an auto receiver. Worked nicely: Antenna Length (in) ..... Stations "captured" cleanly 0" ... 3 stations 1" ... 13 (anything's better than nothing!) 2" ... 13 3" ... 14 5.5" ... 21 (starting to get somewhere) 8" (1/16 WL)... 24 16" (1/8 WL).... 29 (nice compromise for a fixed car antenna) 24" ... 34 (this increase was a bit unexpected) 31.5" (1/4 WL) ... 37 (nice old-school telescoping whip for an auto) 41" (whip max) ... 37 (as expected, no improvement over 1/4WL yet) 63" (1/2 WL) ... wish I had one on hand.... You said "Been there. Done that." You've tried an 19" 1/4WL antenna on a marine VHF? What'd you find? I understand the not insignificant ergonomic hurdles, but I'm very curious about performance improvement.

Hi Ed, That's my hypothesis. An antenna is really a transducer of sorts. Or maybe think of pushing a fluid through a pipe: the smaller the orifice the higher the pressure needed to move a given amount. When I was a kid I learned that it wasn't so much the power of my ham radio transmitter that was important as it was using as long an antenna as possible that was tweaked to match band wavelength (in this case I recall c. 80 ft being correct for high efficiency, as I didn't have a 160 ft yard). Hi Bob, Interesting premise re battery management, but I believe that ergonomics (VERY short antenna) is a given primary design constraint, and that the balancing act becomes battery type (cost) vs. power output, and thus drain cycles. However I think the "overdrive" issue you mention is a red herring for portable marine VHF, as saturation (signal overload) and possible resultant audio clipping is not a critical issue. As kayakers don't we struggle more with antenna placement (keeping it as high off the water as possible to help with earth's curvature) while using an incredibly inefficient antenna both for reception AND especially transmitting? I don't think intelligibility is compromised by overload as often as by poor signal to noise ratio, and the latter can be greatly improved with a longer antenna. Because reception requires little power, battery issues are less critical, but in transmitting we're really trying to push a signal through a small hole, using as much power as possible for only meager success. It occurs to me that a limiting factor too is overheating via too-fast battery drainage. A friend of mine flies RC gliders using tiny super-high RPM motors that drain a battery pack in in 90sec, getting both REALLY hot. Can't have that in a small radio either.... Again my antenna thoughts are based on classic RF theory and NOT state of the art product designs. Hence my post-hibernation queries.... Nice to hear from ya.

Received the latest West Marine mailer touting all the new radios while reading an email from a fellow paddler annoyed that his new fancy GPScumRadio's antenna tickles his left nostril. Well! I just finished replacing my 1/8 wavelength Miata's FM shorty antenna (16") with a "proper" old-school 1/4 wave (31.5" for NPR/college c. 90MHz), and will be comparing S/N ratios (probably cheating by just using the autoscan counts). So naturally my brain cross-fired and I thought about calculating ideal antenna lengths for our VHF use (156-177 MHz). Simply: 1/2 wavelength: 72" (some say 5/8 wave can be better: 81"!) 1/4 wavelength: 36" (damned good) 1/8 wavelength: 18" (pretty ideal compromise for kayaks?) 1/16: 9" (yech...getting pretty weak, but has that old-school look!) 1/32 wave" 4.5" (probably what's used in the bulk of our modern choices...and pretty useless without unobtanium batteries?) Manufacturers have to use HUGE battery power and thus fast drain-rates to overcome the poor signal strength capability of such short antennae. Anybody successfully install a waterproof true 1/8" wave (18") telescoping antenna on their portable marine radio? Could be good for poking, pointing out seascape features, etc.... Or what about a flexible J-shaped 18" "hook" antenna that could, oh I dunno, hang around one's neck, solving both the attachment AND signal strength issues simultaneously? Thoughts? Ideas? Pros and cons?

Oy oy oy! Respectfully, Archimedes

I was going to offer a rec for the Brunton 85R flush-mount, as its larger card is MUCH easier to read than the ubiquitous 70, but since you had a built-in recess.... But now that you're complaining... think about mounting an 85R a bit closer. It's a great compass, and I strongly prefer it to its smaller cousin. Sometimes a bit cheaper, too, is you can find one.

In the merriment of raffling 45 gifts to our lucky Holiday Party attendees I forgot to offer the only joke I thought up for the event: "A fellow paddler, having grown up with vague memories of blessings of fleets, decided to cover several bases after purchasing a new kayak. He watched as a priest sprinkled water on it, and then held hands with a minister as they prayed, but was chagrined after the shaman finished chanting when the rabbi ran over to his beloved newbie, flipped it over and cut off a half-inch of its skeg!" Sssss....BOOM!

Yippee!

Hey Bob, I should be able to attend and help out, as before. Glad we could resuscitate this CWW. Thanks, Ern

Amazing...breathtaking. Thanks for posting! Ern

Hi Ben, I forget where I bought the bright red stuff that's been holding up for over three years now on my carbon paddles, but while at a True Value yesterday noticed that 3M is producing their Duct Tape in orange, red, bright yellow, et al, for cheap. May be worth a try. Ern

Mike, Terrific! See you at 11. Best to park in the rear near the trees. Ern

Tom H and I are meeting up tomorrow (Sunday) at 11AM at Tuck's Point, Manchester, for a leisurely L3. Winds will be light SE, so we'll probably head up towards Gloucester Harbor to maybe catch a lil' push back. Actual agenda to be decided by participants at the briefing. Promises to be a great day! Ern

Tom H and I will set out of Tuck's Point at 11:30 Sunday if you want to join us. I'll double-post. Ern

Oh boy....sorry if this fizzles, Godfrey. Tom H and I are hoping to get out on the water Sunday (tomotrrow). Wanna help plan something? Anything from easy Tuck's/Lane's choices or a deer launch to the Hahba Islands works. Ern

Greetings! I may be up for either day or eve, but cannot commit yet. Keep me in the loop. Ern Later: too late. Gotta work Sat PM. Next time.

Lis, Just a quickie: I had a fitness Kayakpro JET with a OE "pull bar" attached ahead of its footrest plank. I assume this setup is prevalent for these types of kayaks? See ya in the sunlight. Ern

Join Leon, me et al at Tuck's Point Manchester at 11AM Tuesday for the pick 'o the week L3-4 paddle (agenda to be decided at briefing). PM for easy parking. Ern

Hi Karen, I have a Necky RIP (8 foot surfer) you can borrow anytime. I can't comment on the appropriateness of its use for a child, though. Call me at 781 483-3922. Cheers. Ern

Sounds terrific. I'm a most probable attendant! Ern

No confusion re the two hulls, only the Qwest's date of introduction: CRCK had described it as a "new" boat (maybe just to their fleet?) on the paddle in 2005 or 2006. I'd assumed new MODEL too. My small error. Also, please read more carefully...I'm just quoting OTHERS" descriptions of stability profile, and what I SAW when one spilled a newbie twice and a proficient paddler once; and of course the repeated CRCK concise description from just last Friday, which would indicate that it may be a great match for someone of your size, strength and rolling skill, but perhaps not a smaller, older guy of less experience as our newcomer. But maybe his son is a better fit, and with advancing skills will fit it fine. I suspect they'll find out in time, as we all do.

The Quest is an old Derek Hutchinson designed boat make by P&H it has been around since at least 2000 and is a very very different boat from the Valley Q Boat. I know. I didn't confuse the two "Qs". The Q-boat (was it called the Qariaq?) story was to illustrate that even the most experienced paddler (Keith) admitted that paddling a hull that's NEW to him can lead to difficulties in unexpected conditions.

Doug's reference to that incident tweaked my memory: A few weeks following I met Keith as we were co-safety-spotters at an REI Demo Day. Not having any knowledge of him nor the USCG-involved event, I asked him what happened. Long story short (see that post) he summarized that a good deal of the problem was his unfamiliarity with that newer kayak (Q boat) in those conditions, adding that he thought he would've been ok, and NOT capsized, in his tried 'n true Explorer. VERY interesting.... The Quest premiered right around the time ('05?) I took a first Ocean Skills Session with CRCK in Cohasset. They used the new Quest for a larger guy, who quickly capsized twice in only very light chop. The assistant staff trainer promptly swapped 'yaks with the paid participant, but also capsized in moderate chop later (it was an unuasually choppy day...estimated by Dave (CRCK) at 4-5 footers at one point!). Once we hit the current/eddy work, there's was an all-in, as expected, with further training, and all went well. Not having heard much about the Quest since, I asked about it again, and was told that it's a 'yak for "a really big guy with good rolling skills who can control its combination of high volume cockpit and tender hull." So maybe incorporate that bit of reference in your thinking and kayaking plans. Maybe the Quest is better for your taller and heavier son, assuming he doesn't mind a rounded hull, and can advance to control it in conditions? The cowboy entry is still not within my repertoire, even in a pool! So although it sounds like you're a natural athlete, strong swimmer, etc., I would exercise the caution all have suggested, as well knowing that your paddling an advanced hull that may be more easily tamed by a bigger guy, or maybe added ballast? I dunno. Good luck, and be safe. It can take awhile to learn all the handling quirks of a new hull in "conditions", as both stories indicate.

Hi Guys, Impex closed at 4 today, so I got impatient and decided to rip it out...in the rain...while on the roof rack. Oy. Once I got the hexed collet off (long reach!) and found no hints I loosened the controller end and pulled the skeg out, seeing a major compound bend right behind said heat-glued mount. Probably happened when I slammed onto a rock with skeg deployed a while back. Decided to grab two pliers and dekink, lube, and finally thread it back together, but of course it wouldn't work until I figured out that the hex cllet acts to pinch the cable sheath into position. Loosening, positioning the sheath, and retightening the collet seems to result in decent function. It was suggested that I might as well install a new cable and skeg (they're sold together) is a good idea, but as it rained harder I decided to just persevere and save what I had. We'll see.... Thanks for the tips. Ern

Seeking the skeg guru: Thought my Force 5's skeg had just picked up a rock, result being its stuck closed position. But nothing in there, and a very hard tug with pliers was required to pull it down. Then it wouldn't push back up past about 1/2-way, despite jiggling the UN-kinked control end. So I left stuck 1/2 way down for yesterday's paddle, but even that's too much resistance for easy lean-turning the Forces. After a quick Google-check I hear of a variety of geometries and fasteners used back there, making repair not obvious. So I got in there with a flashlight and see a fully sealed system with the in/outside cable "hole" secured by a plastic hex nut. But as I jiggle the system externally...both from the controller end or push/pulling the skeg itself, I can't feel ANY movement at either end of the cable. Since it's a sealed sheath system (at least until it leaves the hex groomet into the skeg "box", I can't see where there would be a kink possibility (again, the controller end is unkinked, but unable to be budged. I suppose there could be a more "open" space near the skeg attachment that can allow a rock "punched" skeg to kink its cable at the skeg end. Is THAT the likely culprit? Or is it possible that the relatively sturdy and stiff cable somehow just seizes unkinked somewhere in its run? It'd be helpful have a hint so I'll know whether to buy a new cable before I tear it apart, or even drag it to CRCK if it's a three-handed job. Thanks a bunch. Ern