San Juan Islands with Body Boat Blade

[...]

San Juan Islands with Body Boat Blade

Background:

Back in May, I noticed a new learning opportunity being offered by Body Boat Blade (BBB) on Orcas Island, Washington. It was called “Journey on the Sea – 5 Day Skills Camp” from August 18 – 22. The concept was to paddle the San Juan Islands, camp along the way and receive training across a wide spectrum of skills. It sounded like a great opportunity and I called to reserve a spot. Little did I realize at the time, it would exceed all expectations and serve as a catalyst for my desire to return often to paddle the Pacific Northwest.

Pre- work:

With help from Leon at BBB, I began to sort out the issues regarding dry suit, boat, chart, reference web sites and lodging for before and after the trip. BBB is very familiar with assisting paddlers traveling long distance and all concerns were easily addressed. I will admit I did focus on organizing myself with the logistics necessary to get to class and back home with no confusion. Since each way required the use of five different modes of transportation with time sensitive connections, good organization skills were helpful. Surprisingly, I found the entire process very enjoyable and a highlight of the adventure.

Over the three months leading up to the trip, I began acquiring items I would need to paddle the SJI as well as explore the amazing community of Eastsound, WA. I would recommend a good nautical chart and Captain Jack’s Tide and Current Almanac for Puget Sound. I would also highly recommend a reservation at the Golden Tree Hostel for before and after lodging needs.

Once I nailed down the travel logistics and gear requirements, I turned my attention to understanding the paddling and camping options. At this phase of the adventure, I began a dialog with our coach, Matt Nelson. Matt is the perfect blend of expert sea kayaker, superb coach and supportive/understanding teacher. He encouraged me to invest time and effort in my prep work. He stated, “The more you invest in your prep work, the more you will get out of the trip.” That was exactly the approach I was seeking.

Arrival on Orcas Island:

I read that Eastsound, WA had been judged one of the ten best small towns in the USA. I wanted to understand why Eastsound was special and how this affects the year round residents. Clearly during the summer months there are many off-islanders and many of the services in town cater to the tourists. However, if you look carefully you will find the spots frequented by the locals where they go to relax and tell great stories of their lives. From what I learned, I believe Eastsound deserves it’s designation due to the spirit of the year round residents as they graciously welcome new comers and support each other especially during the winter months. I hope to visit Eastsound often.

Class Begins:

BBB has a shop on Prune Alley with space to facilitate an easy effective teaching environment. The class would consist of Matt, Connie and me. I would come to discover that Connie is a great paddler with a can do attitude and a warm gracious personality that made you feel you knew her for many years as a treasured friend. We were just the right number of paddlers and our personalities complemented each other.

Upon arriving in class I thought I might know something about trip planning and risk assessment. Little did I realize my knowledge would turn out to be less than one tenth of the knowledge Matt possessed. What surprised me even more was how easily Matt achieved the knowledge transfer as well as the methodology used to encourage me to be an active participant in analyzing situations.

We would be “Three upon the Sea” and as such we would need to spend our first day understanding how to work together as a team. Our safety and enjoyment would depend on our ability to make careful observations, good decisions and demonstrate solid teamwork. Communication would be the unifying thread. Matt guided us along with encouragement and lots of positive reinforcement.

Paddling the San Juan Islands:

During my prep work I noticed we would be paddling during a full moon phase with the moon in perigee. This would result in the strongest currents during the month of August. On top of that, we would see a tide cycle with the ebb in the AM and the flood in the PM each day with the strongest currents on the ebb. Matt had carefully chosen the trip dates to challenge the students and require us to engage in the trip planning and risk assessment process each day. Our trip planning resulted in minimal paddling effort as we paddled far and wide taking advantage of the currents and wind. Each day we would go with the flow and have the wind to our backs.

We began the trip from North Beach on Orcas and paddled to Patos Island via Point Doughty. We would camp on Patos our first night. From Patos we paddled to Sucia and then to Matia where we camped on our second night. Then on to Clark for the third night and eventually to Obstruction Pass for our take out and drive back to the shop. Our trip allowed us to visit the most beautiful islands in the archipelago.

Each day was full of opportunities to learn and improve our skills while being surrounded by some of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen. I kept repeating to Matt, “I hope you realize you live in paradise”. Matt’s style was to allow each student to determine on their own how much they were able to absorb. Since we were learning for as much as 12 hours each day, you needed to carefully pace yourself in the knowledge transfer. With some coaches the transfer is like being on the wrong end of a fire hose. With Matt that never happened. He could sense when you needed a break and we would go in search of bald eagles. Connie and I both asked Matt hundreds of questions. But we sensed he enjoyed the process. We were a happy team all fully engaged in the sport we love.

Back at the Shop:

There we were, Matt, Connie and me at the teaching table with Leon and Shawna in the background. Good friends recapping our great adventure. We would end the day just as we did each day with a thorough debrief. There would be big smiles and lots of laughter as we reflected on our greatest achievements and for me, my greatest moments of embarrassment. The trip had exceeded all my expectations.

Epilogue:

Clearly I feel myself being pulled back to BBB and the Pacific Northwest as a result of this very positive experience. I hope other members of NSPN might consider joining me next summer as I journey back to see good friends and relive fond memories. If you do feel this is the type of adventure you seek, please contact me and we can begin the preparation process.

Oh! I almost forgot! Yes, I saw lots of bald eagles, seals, porpoise, a sea lion and minke whales. I will also fondly remember a couple very happy mice on Clark’s Island. But I will hold that story for another day.

Warren Parlee
P.S. Picture to follow in a separate posting.
August 25, 2013

[Doug]

Wow.... Great adventure Warren. I envy your ability to get away from the northeast for such a great experience. I'd love to join you one day in the great northwest San Juan's.

I was fortunate to have some instruction from Shawna and Leon 6 or 7 years ago at a symposium near Tampa. I wonder if the Matt you traveled with was the Matt that was with them at that symposium who helped me figure out why I couldn't keep up with the group on a paddle to an outside island. He struck me as quite an exceptional fellow back then and took it upon himself to work with me. He seemed to be born with a paddle in his hand.

Looking forward to seeing your photos.

Doug

[JohnHuth]

Thanks for posting that. I've taken courses from Leon and Shawna. It sounds like a fantastic time!

[rfolster]

Welcome home, Warren! Seems like you had an incredible trip, and I am glad you got to go.

[BethS]

That sounds fantastic Warren, and thank you for sharing your adventure with us. I hope to paddle in that region sometime in the near future, I've been to the area for hiking trips but have never kayaked there. It is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been.

[prudenceb]

Welcome home, Warren. I've been thinking of you on your long-fantasized trip, and am thrilled that it turned out to be everything - and more - you thought/hoped it would be. Assuming I have two operational knees by next summer, count me in!

pru

[Dave M.]

Welcome back Warren. Sounds like one incredible trip. I can't wait for you to regale all the details.

Dave

[...]

Doug,

I suspect the Matt you met in Tampa was Matt Nelson who was my coach. Matt has an amazing background with extensive experience with multi-day kayak expeditions in Alaska and British Columbia. My knowledge grew geometrically every hour I worked with him.

As a case in point, my previous on-water navigation method of using a chart and compass to calculate a back bearing to verify location proved to be inefficient when the water is moving under you at 2.7 kts, which was typical during our crossings. New environment needed new knowledge which Matt provided. We were constantly determining and readjusting our range, which facilitates setting your ferry angle to arrive at your destination. Without proper angle you could easily be swept out into the high risk channels where commercial boat traffic moved at 20 kts speeds. I would not recommend paddling those waters without proper orientation to the currents and one should never paddle there without a thorough understanding of Captain Jack’s Tide and Current Almanac.

We were fortunate is that the wind was not an issue. Frequently the wind will pick up speed and be in opposition to the direction of the current. At that point wind waves build. That is not the only challenge. The archipelago has many ledges and reefs where the current can switch directions and move at top speed. If you are unfortunately enough to go for a swim and loose hold of your boat, the wind will send the boat in one direction and the current will sweep you in the opposite direction. Our daily risk assessment each morning was critical.

All this knowledge of wind and its effect on moving water would be essential for what I hope will be an expedition in Alaska some day. It is nice to dream!!

Warren

[EEL]

"We were constantly determining and readjusting our range, which facilitates setting your ferry angle to arrive at your destination. Without proper angle you could easily be swept out into the high risk channels where commercial boat traffic moved at 20 kts speeds."

Warren:

A question. Do you mean with the current was causing you to constantly adjust to maintain the range or that you were needed to frequently determine a new range for a new course? Its amazing how fast those big ships move through and go from small dot to towering giant isn't it?

I believe your trip description shows how valuable it is to paddle in different environments as the skills from one do not always suffice for another and thus you become a better, all around paddler.

Ed Lawson

Envious

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Ed,

The current was causing us to constantly readjust our range as we were being “set” to either the left or right. Frequently the range we were using would not work as we got closer to the island so we would need to quickly find a new range. We were also concerned at times that we might be staying on course, but not making any progress forward so we needed to determine additional ranges from the sides to measure our forward progress. At other times we could not find an adequate forward range so we used our paddle shaft to set a range based on forward and reverse points of reference. Facinating!

Yes, the big ships were moving very fast. There was also tug boats pulling very large barges. Matt was particularly concerned about those since apparently kayakers do not survival an encounter with those vessels! There were risk equations being adjusted all the time.

All great stuff which was new for me. My previous comfort level was turned on its head. I love when that happens!

Warren

[kate]

So happy for you, and envious of your trip! Looking forward to reading about it in more detail, and seeing pictures. Such a grand big world, so many places for kayaking....

Kate

[...]

Kate,

I thought of you and your experiences with moving water in the Bay of Fundy. From your trip report I could not detect a significant concern with wind on moving water.

At one point Matt, Connie and I were assessing our risks with rounding the headland at Patos Light. The wind had kicked up the seas and we were faced with waves, some breaking, from one angle and fast moving water at an opposing angle. The question for me was, do I edge to gain low brace support as the wave breaks on beam, or do I attempt to moon the current? A wrong decision would leave me on the rocks of the headland or swept out into the strait. At the time, I thought about how the Bay of Fundy might be a little more hospitable.

Luckily for me, we decided not to round the headland at that time.

Warren

[kate]

I was fortunate that at Bay of Fundy I didn't have strong winds (in fact, I postponed the trip by several days due to a hurricane moving through). Much smaller body of water too, less volume and fetch. If I understand your scenario, seems to me that the waves are the more powerful force, so bracing into them would be the way to stay upright. Not rounding the headland - even better. Always preferable to make a good decision and avoid undesired risk. The difficulties at Fundy are with the very cold water (better have rescue skills down) and the strong and unpredictable currents (better have some whitewater skills down). (Well, and also navigating a seascape that looks radically different six hours later.) It's very much like paddling a river - a river that changes direction twice a day! Anyway, your SJI trip sounds much more challenging than my Deer Island trip.

k

[...]

Kate,

Yes, like Fundy the water is cold in SJI. We all wore dry suits since the water temps were around 51 degrees. One day I unwittingly asked Matt if I could practice rescuing Connie in very fast moving water. Connie did a great job doing a wet exit. As I left the eddy, and focused on Connie being swept away, I forgot for a moment about the current as I attempted to catch up to Connie. All is take is a second for the current to catch your mistake and over I went. It was one of my more embarrassing moments. Connie’s facial expression was priceless! Poor Matt had to get Connie in her boat, and then tow us to an eddy so I could get back in my boat. I probably was in the water for only 5 minutes, but I was frozen even wearing wool layers under the dry suit. In those waters you “play” very carefully!

Warren

Edited August 26, 2013 by Warren

[Phil Allen]

Warren,

Sounds like a great trip. Looking forward to the pics.

Phil

[...]

San Juan Island Photos – Part 1 of 3
Orcas Island

The ferry terminal at Anacortes, WA serves as the gateway to the San Juan Islands.

I would travel from Anacortes to Orcas via Lopez and Shaw through Peavine Pass. You can see Orcas Island in the background. I actually made a trip very similar to this when I attended Seattle University and at the time I promised myself that I would return. That was 35 years ago. The promise was being fulfilled.

Arrival at Orcas with a great sense of anticipation.

I walked from the Golden Tree Hostel to the Body Boat Blade shop where I would prep my loaner Explorer with the custom cockpit minicell foam inserts that were crafted for me by Tom Bergh. At the end of the trip I would remove the inserts and they will become part of my travel kit as I explore the world.

On the town green in Eastsound, the Saturday Farmer’s Market was underway. There is a strong and supportive desire by the residents to buy local and the market was well attended. There were also a large number of minority groups well represented in this diverse community.

A picture of Matt on North Beach just as we were ready to launch and begin our journey.

Connie on North Beach with Patos Island above her head off in the distance. Because the ebb tide was flowing at max, paddling directly across would have been very difficult even with a radical ferry angle. We chose to paddle a half mile up the coast and ferry over in a wide arc to Patos. The plan worked well.

A view of Sucia Island from Long Beach.

Next part - Patos Island

Warren

Edited August 26, 2013 by Warren

[Katherine]

Welcome back, Warren! Such a wonderful experience; I am very happy for you.

[Lallen]

Warren, so happy your trip brought you joy. I am sure your skills jumped to a whole new level, all while having the time of your life. Pacific Northwest paddling is on my bucket list-hope to get there one day. So many places to paddle-not enough time and resources! Thanks for sharing your trip.

[...]

Lorrie,

Thank you!

As you know, the great journeys in life are simply a whole collection of small actions that are assembled in a purposeful manner. One day you look back and realize where you have been and a smile comes to your face.

Warren

P.S. Congratulations on passing the ACA L3 Instructor Certification Exam!! A Great Journey indeed! Smile!

Edited August 27, 2013 by Warren

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San Juan Island Photos Part 2 of 3

Patos and Sucia Islands

Most of the island camp sites in the San Juan Islands are operated by either the Washington State Parks (A great iPhone application is available via the App Store.) or the Washington Water Trails Association (WWTA). WWTA oversees the Cascadia Marine Trail which offers great camping options for the non-motorized boating community, kayaks and sailboats. You can join WWTA in a manner similar to MITA and obtain assess to the island camp site guide book.

Patos Islands are composed of Patos Island and Little Patos and are located in the Gulf of Georgia at the extreme northwest corner of the San Juan Island group. They are separated from the Canadian islands to the west by the deep waters of Boundary Pass which are conspicuous for their strong tide-rips. There are amazing rock formations on Patos and Sucia

Here is a picture of Patos Light with Boundary Pass in the distance. During the night winds from the Strait of Georgia sent waves to hit the headland the next morning.

Most of the island camp sites have great toilet facilities. My handy dandy poop kit, which I brought with me, was a real novelty to Matt and Connie.

A picture of Matt and Connie taken during one of our many navigation lessons. Matt was always very patient with us and tailored each lesson to the student.

Evening sunset from our camp site at Patos with two large ships in Boundary Pass heading toward the Strait of Georgia.

A picture taken from Echo Bay, Sucia Island with Orcas Island in the background. In addition to a great toilet facility, Sucia had access to drinkable running water to fill Dromedary bags. Talk about luxury camping!

Edited August 27, 2013 by Warren

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San Juan Island Photos Part 3 of 3

Clark Island

This is a picture of Rosario Strait with a dreaded tug boat pulling a barge. Kayakers who inadvertently get sucked under the barge will die. Sobering thought!

Clark Island with a rock formation called The Sisters on the right. Great for moving water lessons with Matt.

This is a picture of Orcas Island as seen from Clark. Orcas Island has a steep vertical side facing Clark. It was fun to get real close to the “steep and deep” side of Orcas which had edible seaweed growing on the rock face. We would ride up and down the rock face and snag pieces of the seaweed for our eating pleasure.

Mt Baker as seen from our camp site on Clark Island. Amazing!

Gravel beach on Clark. They were everywhere and very easy on the knees!

Happy paddling Buddies on Clark.

Those who know me remember how I treasure the early morning when I can hold a hot cup of coffee, watch the sunrise, and quietly enjoy my “Maxwell House Moment”. And yes, Matt, I do drink Maxwell House coffee! This particular morning was very special as a sat on Clark Island with a view of Mt Baker on the horizon. A special morning indeed!

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San Juan Islands

Final Photos

The Happy Paddling Buddies. It is always a special achievement when everyone really still likes each other at the end of a kayak camping trip.

This is a view of Matia Island. The smaller land mass is called Puffin Island. In my opinion, this was the most beautiful of all the islands we would visit. Surprisingly to some, I did not take any other pictures of Matia. In a way, that was done on purpose so that I would feel a responsibility to return and complete unfinished business. Perhaps we should always set a new goal as we finish a journey? Matia awaits my return.

As I complete this picture posting, I am reminded of a memorable moment at the Boat Body Blade teaching table at the start of our trip. Matt asked Connie and me to describe our goals for the class and he would write them on a white board so we could revisit the list as the end of the trip. Connie would go first and stated three very clear goals. She wanted; 1.To polish her already good paddling strokes, 2.Improve her abilities to break in and out of the current via the eddy and 3. To improve her on-water navigation skills. All admirable goals and Matt seemed very pleased. I was next and ready with my three goals. You could see the joyful anticipation on Matt’s face. I wanted; 1. To see bald eagles, 2. Take pictures, 3. Have a quiet time each morning to savor a hot cup of coffee. The shocked look on Matt’s face will last in my mind’s eye for a lifetime.

What Matt did not understand at the time was the true significance of this journey for me. This trip was the reason I began sea kayaking. Prior to my mom’s death, she encouraged me to make this journey as long as I learned to kayak in a safe manner. I promised her I would complete this trip. The plan was to take these picture and return to share them with my dad. Unfortunately my dad died before he could see them. However, as I assembled them into this thread, I could sense they were there with me and we all smiled.

Live your dreams and keep smiling!

Warren

[prudenceb]

Beautiful!

pru

ps - and I think you have learned your lesson well about the importance of having fun/enjoying the ride in addition to everything else...

[Gcosloy]

Warren-

Thank you for your wonderful lessons learned in kayaking and in life.

[Lallen]

Warren, I am sure your guardian angels were with you on this trip. Your Mom would be so pleased to know you made the journey. And that you acquired the skills you needed before undertaking the trip so you could truly savor the moment. Which is after all, what it's really all about!