djlewis

My rack is readily detachable

Ummm... I hope it doesn't detach too readily -- like on Rt 95 at 70 MPH.

Seriously, I'm not sure what your rack technology is, but "readily detachable" usually translates -- for all kinds of devices -- to "less secure", sometime a lot less. The price of convenience is often performance. All the more reason to use bow/stern lines IMHO -- remember, their purpose is not tighter tie-down but backup in case of failure. If you're going to drive into a ditch, however, because of the distraction, by all means leave them off. Just please do a sécurité call with your driving route.

Oh, faw gawds sake, David, read the whole post and especially the link to this http://www.nspn.org/forum/topic/8532-to-pause-or-not-to-pause/?hl=pause. It’s all been explained over and over and over and …

Oh, faw gawds sake, David, read the whole post and especially the link to this http://www.nspn.org/forum/topic/8532-to-pause-or-not-to-pause/?hl=pause. It’s all been explained over and over and over and …

He, Leon -- watsa problem? I agree with (and thought my post was consistent with) everything you say in your reference post save one point. For one, I called out, but did not specify, the tradeoff of the momentary pause that you so eloquently address in your post.

The only thing I might differ on is "your paddle is pushing in the wrong direction against the water for .088 feet (about 1 inch)". My experience is that you need not push in that teensy interval. If you leave your grip a tad loose for that instant, the paddle will just ride with the (apparent) current past the boat and neither brake nor propel. But I can see I might be wrong -- maybe better to push that inch so as to have an inch more when you do pull. I'll leave the tradeoffs at that level of detail to you speedy experts.

Anyway, my main target was Christopher -- and his ever-amusing style of calling anyone and everyone publicly on their foibles -- who was being a bit foible-ish himself in assuming there had to be braking. But hey, maybe I'm the foiblisher.

That's all -- no need to get hot under the neck gasket. Are you still in Fla, where it's pretty hot to start with? Hope to see you soon for summertime paddlin (

Peace. --David.

Then Lisa wrote this among her sensible response: <The experts always say to hesitate at the catch until the whole paddle is in the water before pulling back and unwinding the rotation> and with this statement I am slightly lost -- sorry, LH! Surely, if one hesitates when placing blade into watery stuff, then one is totally and momentarily applying <drag> to the picture -- ie, totally counter-productive? If the blade is not moving backwards, then it is acting as a speed brake -- has to be!

If I may interpret the lovely and talented (and fast!) Lisa, I think she meant that the experts leave their paddle loose in the water for that instant before it is fully buried. They do not apply forward (toward the bow) pressure to brake the boat. Instead the paddle rides ever so slightly backwards (toward the stern) for the ever so slight moment before applying sternward pressure. Or more precisely, the not-yet-fully-buried blade stays stationary in the water while the boat moves ever so slightly past it.

There's obviously a tradeoff there, but the experts are experts (and fast!) partly because they calculate and execute such tradeoffs more skillfully than us ordinary paddlers.

So, Sir Godfrey, you may have experienced a perverse image of the racer actually working to slow their boat down. But I think you should be a tad more charitable to your betters, that they might know whereof they speak, and imagine a more plausible interpretation of their -- thankfully brief -- description. And I do apologize for being far more wordy than Lisa, but when charitable imagination fails, perhaps detailed explanations become necessary.

--David

Like Leon (yes, I agree with Leon -- wanna bet on it?! ) I think of the bow line as a last-ditch measure to keep a kayak from careening down the road should any part of the rails/rack/saddle/strap system fail catastrophically. I figure at that point, no matter what I do, my kayak and perhaps car are gonna take serious hits, but better that than my boat crashing through someone's windshield or driving them off the road or over the median.

What I do -- run the line through the toggle loop *and* under the deck line and/or through the metal loop on the front bolt if there is one; IOW several attachment points. I realize they (or the rope) may all fail too under the stress of a loose boat flailing from a 65-mph moving vehicle, but I hope they will at least slow the boat down and ground it, and prevent it from becoming an airborne missile. I also don't pull the bow line guitar-string taut -- tent hitches rather than trucker hitches, the latter being known to break boats. I figure the straps' job is to grip the boat tight, and the bow line is, as I said, only for catastrophic failure.

Question to Brian -- do you give the whole system a thorough inspection and serious stress test every time before venturing out, or at least frequently? One of the characteristics of "catastrophic failure" is lack of warning signs, the system having silently deteriorated to the point that the stress takes it over the edge without overt prefiguration. As a last ritual before getting in the car, I grab the stern and give it a good hard shove in both sideways directions. One time that revealed the straps were not tight enough.

Note to Marc -- I think you could loop the bow rope cleverly around the base of the monkey fist to perform the above-stated last-ditch function.

--David.

Thanks to Wayne, Will, Fred, and Nancy for sharing their boats, paddles and knowledge. Their level of expertise, instructional talents, hard work and, willingness to share was exemplary. These folks gave up their Sunday and volunteered to help us learn the art of Greenland rolls. They not only talk-the-talk but also, walk-the-walk of the "Pass-It-Forward" model.

Les

And thanks to you too, Les!

--David

Thanks for asking the question regarding who is using "electronic" navigation aids. For the past five years I have been printing my own charts on water proof paper (Rippedsheets, #100771, 8.5 X 11) using a demo copy of Rose Point Coastal Explorer. You heard me correctly, the demo copy continues to work five years later. My problem now is that my computer is getting so old I need to replace it; Rose Point no longer gives you access to a demo copy (as far as I can see). The water proof paper by Rippedsheets is one of the best products I have ever used. It has exceeded all of my expectations. It's rip proof, you can print to both sides using a standard ink jet printer, and I have not seen any fading. The paper runs about 50 cents per page.

The question I have now is: What navigation software would you recommend that is either free or very low cost?

There are public domain versions of the NOAA charts online but I have never tried printing with them.

I use MapTech, which I bought years ago. But it isn't cheap. What I usually do -- nope, *used* to do -- was use MapTech to print a multiple-sheet image of 4, 6, 9, 12 or even 16 sheets, tape them all together, then go down to Kinkos to laminate part of it at 11x14, with a chart on both sides. I got so good at that I could print a set and tape them all together accurately in about 45 minutes. That has left me with a great collection of charts for most of the places I regularly paddle, from RI to Maine. One drawback, however, is that trips often extend over more than one of those laminated 11x14's, since it's impossible to anticipate all the variations, and sometimes that is very annoying. Also, over the years, some of those laminates have delaminated and leaked.

In the last few years, I have switched mostly to the pre-printed, full-size, double-sided waterproof charts that you can buy online or at many stores. But many of those are more at powerboat cruising scale rather than kayak scale. So they don't cover everyplace you'd like to paddle at a good scale. But at least when they do, they give you a full-size waterproof chart that needs no case.

As for cases, I have found exactly one full-size case that both seals well and holds up over time -- Ortleib. There may be other good ones on the market now, but my Ortleib has worked for years, and I have stuck with it. I have a collection of leaky and/or degraded cases of other brands, if anyone would like one ;-)

I'd be interested in more details about Rippedstop pages. I see them online for $2 per 8x11.5 sheet, which seems not bad. But what about stitching several together -- is that possible, and if so, how would you recommend doing it?

--David

There is a beach you can land on next to the Ferry stop. Tom Berg of MIK (Maine Island Kayak) uses this location to store and launch some of his boats and hold events. There are a couple of restaurants a short walk from there as well as a place to rent bicycles if you want to check out the island that way. It is quite populated but a very interesting little island, especially the outside. Tom seems to always welcome visitors but I have always called first.

Doug

Here's the beach and route from Eastern Promenade... http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5846989

You can also (or used to be able to) launch from a dock just north of the ferry station, with the advantage of being able to park in the ferry terminal garage.

--David

I hear that Carl Ladd of Osprey Sea Kayak does this very competently -- he'd be my first choice.

My second choice would be United Divers of Somerville, who has a great gasket specialist contractor (or did a year or two ago).

Yes, you could also send it back to Kokatat, but then you'd be without it for weeks, pay higher prices and shipping, and not get custom fitting (which matters less for wrists).

--David

As we all know, to move across current to a waypoint you need to angle your kayak upstream enough so that your strokes work to counterbalance the downstream drift. The proper heading angle is called the crab angle (or ferry angle). Holding your heading at the crab angle, you will travel a straight line to the waypoint and, obviously, this is the shortest distance to the waypoint. Under the simple assumptions of a right-angle current, the ferry angle is calculated as the arcsine of (Current Speed/ Paddling Speed). A fairly decent approximation is Current Speed ÷ Paddling Speed X 60°. With a GPS, all you have to do is keep the arrow (line or whatever) lined up to the top of the display.

But, instead, suppose you want to cross the river in the minimum time and are indifferent to where you arrive on the other side of the river. This could be important; for example, if you are heading from an island to shore when a storm is coming soon you may want to get to any place on the mainland shore ASAP.

Although the crab angle will minimize the distance traveled across the river, it won’t minimize the time to get to the other side of the river, etc. Can anyone guess the correct angle to travel at to minimize the time of travel. Although it’s not easy to derive the answer, it turns out that the minimum-time angle doesn’t require any calculations.

PS

I was kayak fishing yesterday and decided to head closer to shore where I saw birds diving at a fish-feeding blitz all along the shore. I just wanted to get somewhere near shore ASAP before the feeding blitz ended. There was a strong cross current and cross wind. I guessed right for the correct heading angle which I analytically validated at night because there was nothing interesting on TV.

PPS

Although I chose an optimum heading angle the feeding blitz ended before I got to it. But I did catch one small barracuda while trolling on the way home.

Same as Bill's answer. Assuming straight, parallel banks and parallel current (and neglecting turbulence effects), the time-optimum angle has to be 90 degrees to the banks, that is aim "straight across". Why? That will get you across in exactly the same time as if there were no current. It can't possibly be any faster -- the crossways component of the current is zero, so no boost is possible. There's pretty much your proof, without the formal math, which is just simple vector trig anyway.

Too much time on yer hands, Leon?

>> I actually think it's fun

Except maybe for the bruises. But how else would serious kayakers recognize each other away from their boats except for the bruised legs.

http://www.biologicalunhappiness.com/DSM-OCD.htm is probably the closest.

I prefer Stohlquist-the gaskets are thicker-the suit sizing is better fitting and while they use their fabric, not Gore-Tex it breathes just fine. And I love the neoprene neck over latex which is not an option with Kokatat. Oh yes-on sale half the price of Kokatat. Had one for 3 years no problems yet!

The Stohlquist suits do sound good. I too like neoprene neck gaskets. I have an OR dry top with one, and it is very comfy and just as watertight as a latex gasket, at least with the fit I have. I tested it by playing dolphin for 5 minutes, and not a drop got through.

But the lower price on Stohlquist non-gore-tex suits illustrates exactly what I said -- every gore-tex suit comes with a built-in insurance policy, and you do pay for that -- plus the brand name.

Actually, you fund it. And me. And anyone who buys a dry suit from Kokatat. Or a gore-tex suit from anyone. Or maybe anything gore-tex from anyone.

So, may as well "collect" what you paid for, that is, a replacement suit. (I did too!)

Try Smugmug. Usually I don't add text below pics unless I post a pic that someone else took so I give them credit for it so the ability to do is there. Quality of picture display is unmatched and the ability to purchase or sell prints is available. Check out www.pixel8er.net for an example. Unfortunately this site is not cheep.

I like SmugMug too. I don't know much about their free service, since I gladly pay $40 or so/year for the "pro" version. Really clean interface and layout, and no software to download. But if you can take the download, Picasa does the trick too, and I think you get 1GB free.

I use a Garmin GPSmap (a couple of them, in fact). It is water resistant, but I always keep it in an Aquapac. I think that the constant salt water exposure is just too much for a device like that.

But maybe the older ones are built better -- wouldn't surprise me.

--David

A hockey player is paddling a kayak on a truck. Where are they going and why?

Hard to believe you're willing to lose again!

Oh, so you accept the bet, even before you know what we're betting on?! In that case, make it $10,000 -- like a recent losing presidential candidate. You too can be a loser!

Shake?

Hey, Leon, I'll bet you a hundred dollars...

I had the good fortune to participate once again as a volunteer student in the latest BCU 4**** assessment with John Carmody and three other coaches: Jenn Kleck, Steve Maynard and Todd Wright. I am thrilled to inform you that Lorrie Allen passed the assessment!

Wow -- congratulations Lorrie! And with that lineup of coaches/assessors, it's an especially great accomplishment.

--David

ROFLMAO -- "Everyone on the scene was covered with small particles of dead whale."

As for leaving large chunks un-particalized, coulda predicted that.

http://www.mbl.edu/b...-falling-apart/

WOODS HOLE, Mass.—Salt marshes have been disintegrating and dying over the past two decades along the U.S. Eastern seaboard and other highly developed coastlines, without anyone fully understanding why. This week in the journal Nature, MBL Ecosystems Center scientist Linda Deegan and colleagues report that nutrients—such as nitrogen and phosphorus from septic and sewer systems and lawn fertilizers—can cause salt-marsh loss.

“Salt marshes are a critical interface between the land and sea,” Deegan says. “They provide habitat for fish, birds, and shellfish; protect coastal cities from storms; and they take nutrients out of the water coming from upland areas, which protects coastal bays from over-pollution.” Losses of healthy salt marsh have accelerated in recent decades, with some losses caused by sea-level rise and development.

“This is the first study to show that nutrient enrichment can be a driver of salt-marsh loss, as well,” says David S. Johnson of the MBL, a member of the team since the project began in 2003.

This conclusion, which surprised the scientists, emerged from a long-term, large-scale study of salt marsh landscapes in an undeveloped coastline section of the Plum Island Estuary in Massachusetts. Over nine years, the scientists added nitrogen and phosphorus to the tidal water flushing through the marsh’s creeks at levels typical of nutrient enrichment in densely developed areas, such as Cape Cod, Mass., and Long Island, N.Y. (Usually, nutrients originating from septic systems, sewerage, and soil fertilizers on land flow with rainwater down to the coastal ocean.)

A few years after the experiment began, wide cracks began forming in the grassy banks of the tidal creeks, which eventually slumped down and collapsed into the muddy creek. “The long-term effect is conversion of a vegetated marsh into a mudflat, which is a much less productive ecosystem and does not provide the same benefits to humans or habitat for fish and wildlife,” Deegan says.

(see link for more)

Interesting. When we paddled Monomoy about a month ago, the water temps were distinctly colder than usual for that time of year in that place. I didn't use a thermometer or check the historical charts, but a dip of the hand made me pretty sure that it was on the chilly side -- I think I estimated 65-67, and if memory serves, it's usually well over 70.

I figure there are always local variations due to the shape and location of the gulf stream and other prevailing currents.

This is the site I used to determine the sea heights, although I was using the Warnings & Forcasts section to pinpoint exactly where I was looking at. How were you able to determine the swell direction?I have been told that surf sites notoriously exagerate the forecasts - surfers love surf! I was using Magic Seeweed to work on last weekends forecast until I was steered to the NEARCOOS site.

How do I use the NOAA graphical site to determine swell direction? It's a tad tricky. First, look at the perimeter on the right; where the swell is largest (the color coding the darkest) is generally the "from" direction of the swell. Also, looking at the lines between different swell levels (the "iso-swell" lines) shows you the rough direction. But sometimes the largest swell on the perimeter is off the area of the map, like right now for Sunday. So you have to infer it from the symmetry. Today's forecast for Sunday is an example. You can infer the shape of the darkest patch to be centered about SE, which also fits with the directions of the iso-swell lines. But the simplest way is to go to the surfmagazine site (formerly swellwatch) and look at the arrows. BTW, I've always found those methods to be consistent. I have both of these bookmarked. There are other surf sites, but I use this one by habit (from swellwatch days).

I don't know why the surf sites would exaggerate the swell forecasts -- that would just disappoint the surfers who would catch on quickly and stop using the site. The site doesn't make any money from bigger forecasts, do they? Or are the sponsored by concessionaires at the beaches? In any case, I have found the NOAA graphical forecast and swellwatch-now-surfmag to be pretty much in line. The nearcoos site is new to me, but it only goes out a day or so -- am I seeing it correctly? I looked at magic seaweed a year or two ago, ans it does the job too, as I recall.

I posted this site before -- on one of your threads, no? Did you see it?

http://graphical.wea...ineDay.php#tabs

Move to Sunday (an iffy forecast on Wednesday) to see why there is such a discontinuity at the NH-MA border (aka the Merrimack). The swell is coming from the SE, so the "shadow" of the cape extends to just about the Merrimack -- everything below is in the shadow, above is not. Looks like there is also a bit of shadowing and refraction from Cape Ann to accentuate the effect in this case.

Confirmation from the other site I posted...

http://forecasts.sur...ght_none_Sat_-1

But not as easy to see, as there is no one view of both the Cape and NH.

I highly recommend these sites to see what is going on in detail, so you don't need to depend on the wide swaths in the standard NWS/NOAA forecasts.

Whoops, looking more closely, I see that the two models differ a bit -- SurfingMagazine has the edge of the shadow a bit farther south, so the south and east sides of Cape Ann get 5', but the NOAA graphical puts the shadow farther north, sparing Cape Ann. Well, it's a long way off, and the two forecasts may well converge by the time Sunday arrives.

Ah, the "ease" of learning to roll... Several years ago, I signed up for rolling classes at CRCK. Knowing that it would be a challenge, I signed up for three three-hour pool classes in a row.

At end of first three hour class: I was almost in tears with frustration! So right-left, upside down-rightside up confused I hadn't a clue what they were trying to teach me or what I was doing. It made no sense while I was doing it, and it made no sense after when I tried to think about what I'd been trying to do. And it hadn't helped to see several athletic types master the roll in less than one session...

At end of second three hour class: I understood! While I hadn't yet rolled, at least I understood what was supposed to be happening. All that right-left confusion was a little bit settled.

At end of third three hour class: I'd rolled! Not reliably. Not over and over. Not on both sides, but I went over and came up 360 degrees later.

From there, I got a reliable roll...Then lost it.

Then spent almost a weekend getting coached with Cheri and Turner and Greg Stamer. Working with GP, my roll got broken down and built back up. Now, it mostly works - on both sides.

Except of course when I'm in a situation where I'd like it to work... when my brain can still betray me, and I am prone to rolling failure.

Always something to work on in this sport...

pru

I feel your pain, Pru -- sounds a lot like you are in the middle of my story. What finally got me to a reliable combat roll was tons of practice. In practice sessions I'd try a deep high brace (unlike Brian, I did not start with bracing, the way EJ recommends) or a scull, fail and presto -- an opportunity for a (sort of) combat roll. A few hundred (well, maybe one hundred) of those, and I had a much better roll, almost combat-ready -- in pools and flat water. The next step was being on a training with Steve Maynard at Tybee, in the Triangle on a day with good confused overhead stuff of all kinds from all directions. He said -- ok, everybody now just go roll in that for 30 minutes -- using every variant you can think of to capsize, voluntarily and "involuntarily" -- run off several back-and-forth -- etc etc. I was bushed afterward, but that did it!