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Glass Boat Winter-care question


Dabend

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I finally purchased my first fiberglass boat last week and am wondering if it is a problem to store it outside in the winter. (I hope not since that's the only choice I have). I have it covered but will freezing temperatures harm the boat?

And, as long as I've got you here...I have a compass that I plan to mount on this boat in the spring. If I do store it outside in freezing temperatures next winter, do I have to remove the compass first or will that endure?

Thanks,

David

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.....do I have to remove the compass first or will that endure?

David

I don't believe any harm will come to the compass proper, but be sure to flip your boat upside-down to drain out all the potential water collected in the kayak recess behind the compass.

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I finally purchased my first fiberglass boat last week and am wondering if it is a problem to store it outside in the winter. (I hope not since that's the only choice I have). I have it covered but will freezing temperatures harm the boat?

And, as long as I've got you here...I have a compass that I plan to mount on this boat in the spring. If I do store it outside in freezing temperatures next winter, do I have to remove the compass first or will that endure?

Thanks,

David

David,

I've stored my boat under the same conditions for several years. It also goes from freezing temps directly to 80 deg pool water ....and then back outside. No problems at all.

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Watch out for water getting into the kayak and freezing/expanding. Watch out for the seams if water gets inside and the boat is on its side, the skeg box if the kayak is upside down and uncovered, etc... Also watch out for critters that might take shelter in the kayak. A squirrel ran off with a foam seat from an Avocet a few years ago and finding a mouse nest in the spring would not be fun.

My kayaks have always been stored in unheated places and I've never had a problem with the compasses.

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...flip your boat upside-down...

Drain any excess water from the boat but DO NOT store it upside down uncovered. If water collects in the skeg box it can damage the hull (when it freezes). Watch for water collection possibilities in general where the space is relatively confined or can seep inbetween two surfaces (and freeze). (Freezing and) expansion of a nominal amount of water in your hatches or cockpit aren't likely to damage anything.

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I store mine upside down and covered. I also tape over my skeg box to keep any water from getting in and expanding. It's a bit of a pain to clean the tape off in the spring, but it's worth doing.

I also pull my hatch covers off, if they seal well you can crack the deck as the boat expands and contracts.

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I store mine upside down and covered. I also tape over my skeg box to keep any water from getting in and expanding. It's a bit of a pain to clean the tape off in the spring, but it's worth doing.

I also pull my hatch covers off, if they seal well you can crack the deck as the boat expands and contracts.

Many boats have a small air hole such ~1/32" drilled in the bulk heads to allow for expanding and contracting due to temp or barometric changes.

I agree with the tape over the skeg. Once you remove most of the tape, I use some acatone to help out. What's left after that is for the beach and rocks to remove, as this is an area that seems to always need more gel coat.

-Jason
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Thanks everyone. This has been very helpful. I am currently storing it on its side hung from two 1 inch wide pieces of webbing on the side of my shed. It is also (loosely) covered by tarps. (and it has a nylon cockpit cover on it) But based on this feedback I will remove the hatch covers and cover those with plastic as well as seal the skeg box.

One more question, besides the expense of one of those built-to-fit kayak covers (kayak condoms?), is there any reason not to get one?

Thanks again.

david

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Thanks everyone. This has been very helpful. I am currently storing it on its side hung from two 1 inch wide pieces of webbing on the side of my shed. It is also (loosely) covered by tarps. (and it has a nylon cockpit cover on it) But based on this feedback I will remove the hatch covers and cover those with plastic as well as seal the skeg box.

One more question, besides the expense of one of those built-to-fit kayak covers (kayak condoms?), is there any reason not to get one?

Thanks again.

david

I know a fair number of paddlers and I don't know anyone who has a kayak cover; presumably the benefit doesn't merit the cost. I imagine they protect a boat during travel and against sunlight, and might be worth the cost for those kayak owners who really prize a cosmetically flawless boat.

However ,for protecting ones kayak and paddlng gear, 303 protectorant is invaluable;virtually ever paddler I know uses it to one degree or the next.

.

Applied to the deck,303 protects against UV rays (some kayak decks fade in sunlight over time ) ;applied to rubber hatches, it keeps them supple and extends their life , and applied to latex bits of paddling gear (most notably ,gaskets on drysuits) it extends their life considerably. 303 is an invaluable product for the serious kayaker.

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I am currently storing it on its side hung from two 1 inch wide pieces of webbing on the side of my shed. It is also (loosely) covered by tarps.

You might consider using wider webbing. 2" tubular would a good choice and a store that sells climbing gear might have it and suspend the boat by the webbing at the locations of the bulkheads. Or use sawhorses and store boat upside down with the hatch rims over the saw horses. Saw the latter on the TideRace site as the suggested way to store a boat. Suspect it is all overkill and anal, but why risk a hogbacked boat or worse. You can get cheap pillowcase style covers FWIW although I'm not sure, as Peter says, what the point is The only time I have seen expensive covers they were on high end racing canoes while transported.

Ed Lawson

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