Leaky skeg

[djlewis]

So, the rear hatch on my Aquanaut was taking on water, maybe a pint a paddle. With some douse testing at home, I isolated it to the spot where the skeg cable enters the skeg box. As you can see, there is a gap between the sheathing on the cable and the opening on the skeg box. I stuffed the sheathing down into the opening and it seems to fit quite snugly, giving me hope that it will hold and be waterproof. But is there something more I need to do, like tape it? If so, with what?

I did find a small fragment of black, plasticy, cylindrical sheathing in there that looks like it could have been the remnant of something to protect that joint, perhaps an extension of the black covering on the skeg box that somehow broke off. But as of now, the white sheathing is just stuffed tightly inside the black covering, with no further protection.

I guess this is the first time I've looked closely at this part of a boat.

Thanks. --David.

[spuglisi]

So, the rear hatch on my Aquanaut was taking on water, maybe a pint a paddle. With some douse testing at home, I isolated it to the spot where the skeg cable enters the skeg box. As you can see, there is a gap between the sheathing on the cable and the opening on the skeg box. I stuffed the sheathing down into the opening and it seems to fit quite snugly, giving me hope that it will hold and be waterproof. But is there something more I need to do, like tape it? If so, with what?

I did find a small fragment of black, plasticy, cylindrical sheathing in there that looks like it could have been the remnant of something to protect that joint, perhaps an extension of the black covering on the skeg box that somehow broke off. But as of now, the white sheathing is just stuffed tightly inside the black covering, with no further protection.

I guess this is the first time I've looked closely at this part of a boat.

Thanks. --David.

David,

I had a similar problem with my WS Tempest. Steve Scherrer recommended gooping up the joint with 3M 5200 or Marine Goop. I used the 3M 5200, about a year ago, and have not had any subsequent problems with leakage at the cable.

[Michael_Crouse]

Same thing happened to my Gulfstream many years ago. 5200 fixed the problem, I also put a bit of fiberglass to hold the cable in place (under the deck).

Any chance you pulled the cable out when you packed for a camping trip? I'm 99% sure that's how I pulled the cable loose on my Gulfstream.

[JohnHuth]

I also had that problem with my WS Tempest. I used plumbers putty to seal it up. That works pretty well, but when I stuff in gear for camping, it sometimes pushes the putty loose and I have to regoop it up. Not elegant, but it works.

[jason]

So, the rear hatch on my Aquanaut was taking on water, maybe a pint a paddle. With some douse testing at home, I isolated it to the spot where the skeg cable enters the skeg box. As you can see, there is a gap between the sheathing on the cable and the opening on the skeg box. I stuffed the sheathing down into the opening and it seems to fit quite snugly, giving me hope that it will hold and be waterproof. But is there something more I need to do, like tape it? If so, with what?

I did find a small fragment of black, plasticy, cylindrical sheathing in there that looks like it could have been the remnant of something to protect that joint, perhaps an extension of the black covering on the skeg box that somehow broke off. But as of now, the white sheathing is just stuffed tightly inside the black covering, with no further protection.

I guess this is the first time I've looked closely at this part of a boat.

Thanks. --David.

I have been told that Carl Ladd is good at fixing the issue that you have.

-Jason

[subaruguru]

I have various diameters of black heat-shrink tubing that'll work well IF you can thread it around the cable end into position.

Ern

[Gcosloy]

One word: Lexel

[Brian Nystrom]

The way those fitting are supposed to work is that you insert the tubing, then pull back on it slightly and the black plastic collar wedges tightly between the tubing and the fitting forming a seal. It probably works great on systems that are under internal pressure (it's a plumbing fitting), but it seems that the push-pull environment of a skeg cable is not ideal for keeping these fittings together. It seems to me that the best bet for long-term durability would be to seat the tubing properly when the boat is new, then goop the joint to keep the parts in place. The piece of black plastic you found is sure to be part of the sleeve. Whether it's a critical part is hard to say without seeing it.

This is another case, much like the skeg cable itself, where parts designed for one purpose are used for something entirely different, with predictable limitations. It would probably be better to use standard compression fittings, as once the brass ring has compressed on the tubing, it can't come loose. However, that would require that the fitting be anchored to very solidly to the skeg box, which is seems most aren't. It also reduces the inner diameter of the tubing slightly, which might cause the cable to bind. But that's what you get when you use plumbing fittings in a cable system.

[Pintail]

David, I have said this before, elsewhere -- why on earth do you not simply cut out the damned skegbox? That way -- no more leaks! I reckon I'm about to do it to my boat after finding that my own skeg cable has just jammed up solid (I have no idea when <that> happened, because I never use the thing)

[djlewis]

The way those fitting are supposed to work...

Hi, Brian:

Thanks for the great analysis. So that's what the fragment of black plastic tubing was.

What do you recommend for fixing it, now that the original, somewhat misconceived apparatus has failed? It seems pretty tight just stuffing the sheathing down into the skeg box opening. But I guess there will still be small leakage, and always the possibility that it will pull out. Perhaps a combination of some kind of goop (what do you recommend?) for the leakage, and solid taping (what kind of tape?) to keep it in place?

Thanks. --David.

[Brian Nystrom]

Hi, Brian:

Thanks for the great analysis. So that's what the fragment of black plastic tubing was.

What do you recommend for fixing it, now that the original, somewhat misconceived apparatus has failed? It seems pretty tight just stuffing the sheathing down into the skeg box opening. But I guess there will still be small leakage, and always the possibility that it will pull out. Perhaps a combination of some kind of goop (what do you recommend?) for the leakage, and solid taping (what kind of tape?) to keep it in place?

Thanks. --David.

You might be able to find a replacement fitting at a hardware store or home center; check the plumbing department. All you really need is a new black sleeve, but then again, you might not. It's possible that the fragment that broke off was just the top flange, which really doesn't affect the sealing. If you push the tubing into the fitting and it won't pull out easily, you're probably OK to just leave it as-is. I would suggest coating the fitting and the tubing with 3M 5200, Lexel or GOOP, to help hold everything in place and seal any small leaks.

It might be possible to replace the current fitting with one that uses a brass compression ring, but without seeing the boat, I couldn't say for certain. I'd also want to test the setup with a piece of scrap tubing and cable, to make sure it wouldn't cause binding.

[risingsn]

That is a very interesting looking factory install with all of that goope piled on there. I don't have any experience w/ 5200 though I here it is great stuff (you can get small tubes @ Home Depot). In my boat repair kit I carry a 2 part epoxy fiberglass / plastic repair putty. I have found this stuff to be basically bullet proof, it sticks to every thing & dries rock hard. I found it in the glue section @ Home Depot for about $5.

Just out of curiosity, who is the manufacturer of the boat?

Hope that helps,

Chuck

[djlewis]

In my boat repair kit I carry a 2 part epoxy fiberglass / plastic repair putty. I have found this stuff to be basically bullet proof, it sticks to every thing & dries rock hard.

Just out of curiosity, who is the manufacturer of the boat?

I carry that putty too, marine grade. But I'm not sure rock-hard filler is what I want -- seems like it might crack and/or wear, and will not necessarily stop leakage. I think something goopier might be the thing, as Brian and others suggest.

It's a 2006 Aquanaut, one of the first of the new generation off the line after Valley's change of ownership.

--David.