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Fortune Bay, Newfoundland: A Love Letter


kate

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Spectacular! It's clear that you have to be very comfortable being alone. Really alone. Impressive!

I suppose that in terms of human company, that's true. But honestly, I didn't feel alone at all. The whole world was there. Waves held their incoming-splash conversations, wind butted in and tried to snatch stuff away, a whole flock of chickadees gave their opinion of my campsite (didn't like it one bit), rocks felt like old old friends that I could always count on. The sky brought around clouds, stars, the full moon for visits. It seems like the longer I'm out there, the more I feel the good company of all things. Not to be all woo-woo or anything, just telling how it is for me. Try a solo trip, see how it is for you...

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Kate,

What I love about your trip reports is how you focus on your surroundings. Often time’s life can get hectic and we loose sight of aspects in our world that are truly amazing. Sometimes the presence of people (non-paddlers in particular) can be a distraction. They might also make it more difficult to observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Seems your trip locations provide you with a minimum of distractions which adds to your enjoyment.

I might add that paddling along the coast of Maine during the months of November, December, January, February and March can create an experience that is relatively free of the normal summer distractions. Although it might not resemble Newfoundland in its grandeur, there are some very special places nearby that are perfectly wonderful when all the seasonal residents leave and the wildlife returns.

Warren

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Kate,

What I love about your trip reports is how you focus on your surroundings. Often time’s life can get hectic and we loose sight of aspects in our world that are truly amazing. Sometimes the presence of people (non-paddlers in particular) can be a distraction. They might also make it more difficult to observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Seems your trip locations provide you with a minimum of distractions which adds to your enjoyment.

I might add that paddling along the coast of Maine during the months of November, December, January, February and March can create an experience that is relatively free of the normal summer distractions. Although it might not resemble Newfoundland in its grandeur, there are some very special places nearby that are perfectly wonderful when all the seasonal residents leave and the wildlife returns.

Warren

I actually really enjoy the people interactions during these trips, few though they often are (perhaps because they are few). People are part of the world too. And yes, it's pleasantly different to be focusing less on people and more on everything else. (Maine's coast is fabulous, IMO - and, my personal appreciation of Maine in winter runs more to Sunday River, Sugarloaf, Saddleback.... )

Josko, I think Warren's your man for winter camping.

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Josko, I think Warren's your man for winter camping.

There are actually a few of us experimenting with winter kayak camping, but yes, Warren seems to be leading the charge!

Kate, I LOVED your description of the wild world keeping you company, and often find myself enjoying the same aspects, even with others around. I have been trying to plan a solo paddling trip (to prove that I deserve my moniker) and the question of safety has always crept into my consciousness. When planning and executing trips like this, do you have any different considerations for your safety than if you were paddling with others. For example, to you specifically avoid areas that have significant currents or areas with shoals that could present breaking waves?

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There are actually a few of us experimenting with winter kayak camping, but yes, Warren seems to be leading the charge!

Kate, I LOVED your description of the wild world keeping you company, and often find myself enjoying the same aspects, even with others around. I have been trying to plan a solo paddling trip (to prove that I deserve my moniker) and the question of safety has always crept into my consciousness. When planning and executing trips like this, do you have any different considerations for your safety than if you were paddling with others. For example, to you specifically avoid areas that have significant currents or areas with shoals that could present breaking waves?

Yes, it's a huge difference between what I would tackle with a group and what I will do on my own. Much more conservative. I do a lot more early rising to paddle before the wind starts, in areas where wind/waves might create more risk than I am comfortable with. I carry a SPOT device and a radio (that's true for group trips too though). Fortune Bay was a really good solo venue because it was isolated and yet there was the ferry partway across the bay, and aquaculture here and there. I've changed my plans during past trips when shoals were worse than I'd envisioned - so being able to choose a different route due to weather or unexpected difficulty is something I look for. (It would make sense for a first solo trip to go somewhere you know, but I've never been able to say no to the allure of new territory.) Current doesn't worry me so much - there was the Bay of Fundy trip with the strongest currents I've encountered in a sea kayak, but then I come from a whitewater kayaking background and am comfortable in current. I try to find areas where there are multiple routes (clusters of islands, for example) - more exposed for good weather, less exposed for rough weather. I am really really careful when clambering from my boat onto rocks, and when moving around in camp. I practice rolls and braces a lot ahead of time.

I'm doing these trips for fun, not to prove my mettle, and I try to always keep that in mind. Safety is absolutely priority one. That said, there's no such thing as risk-free.

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"I am really really careful when clambering from my boat onto rocks, and when moving around in camp...."

With one exception, all of my close encounters with disaster have been on shore as opposed to while paddling. When going solo the dangers of dealing with boat and gear at the shoreline seem far greater than the dangers once paddling to me. Like Kate, I get very careful ashore as one false move could mean a disabling injury as in fracture or serious muscle injury. While everyone is between swims, going solo without a proven reliable combat roll is a little on the risky side.

Ed Lawson

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great report and the pictures are awesome.

Interesting about the ghost towns and the relocations, I have heard of them but haven't really seen the effects of it up close.

We usually get asked if we carry bear spray when we cross the border, nice to know it's not the end of the world if you have some.

( we carry a small air horn & flare gun but have never had to use them).

I have watched bears hunt the shore line it's always interesting... last year a fellow told me he doesn't worry if there is scat or other sign of bears where we were... he replied..not to worry ..it tells you where the bear has been.. as they are ever wandering they will not be coming back . I don't know if he was right but we took some consolation from it.... and told ourselves much the same this year when camping near a considerable umm "wildlife deposit"

Love the Spot device. It always seems to help any loved ones at home to sleep better...

...no gu for you...anymore.

..and those little packages can cut the corners of your mouth for an unsuspecting "ouch"...(that's just not fair)

great observations about Newfoundland poor soil for crops or even gardens..then again no snakes, turtles and other things if I'm not mistaken....

Solo always puts it all on the line .

Congratulations again.. awesome trip !

Edited by spider
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Great report and the pictures are awesome.

Interesting about the ghost towns and the relocations, I have heard of them but haven't really seen the effects of it up close.

Tony's blog post (linked in the report) has better photos of these areas, but really they are everywhere along the Newfoundland coast.

We usually get asked if we carry bear spray when we cross the border, nice to know it's not the end of the world if you have some.

( we carry a small air horn & flare gun but have never had to use them).

Omigosh, I never thought of using the foghorn! I bet that would work.

I have watched bears hunt the shore line it's always interesting... last year a fellow told me he doesn't worry if there is scat or other sign of bears where we were... he replied..not to worry ..it tells you where the bear has been.. as they are ever wandering they will not be coming back . I don't know if he was right but we took some consolation from it.... and told ourselves much the same this year when camping near a considerable umm "wildlife deposit"

Um... maybe... but if it's very fresh they may not have left yet. I was happier finding a different site.

Love the Spot device. It always seems to help any loved ones at home to sleep better...

I agree. So far it has worked very well.

...no gu for you...anymore.

..and those little packages can cut the corners of your mouth for an unsuspecting "ouch"...(that's just not fair)

great observations about Newfoundland poor soil for crops or even gardens..then again no snakes, turtles and other things if I'm not mistaken....

Right about having no snakes or poisonous spiders. I didn't know about turtles, but can't recall seeing any.

Solo always puts it all on the line .

Congratulations again.. awesome trip !

Thank you!

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