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Good adhesive for foam lumbar support?(Vaag)


flipe8

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I managed to grab myself a Boreal Design Vaag and I'm pretty pleased so far, overall. That being said, on two different days out, the factory seat popped out, followed by the lumbar pad last night. I'd love to know what any of you might suggest as a good adhesive to use on these foam parts? I've used all sorts of products in the past from Marine Goop to different epoxies, but any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Pete

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As Jason said, contact cement. You might need to sand off any existing dried glues. If the foam is highly porous, multiple coasts (3?) with drying between each coat might be necessary before you adhere it to the contact cement treated surface of the boat.

best

Phil

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Off topic but what's the best way to get the glue/foam off when you're removing someone else's outfitting? I have (ahem, cough, cough) a few boats I really need to outfit better and having old residue that holds sand and dirt is really annoying.

Acetone has been suggested but I know it can soften a gel coat if you're not careful.

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Off topic but what's the best way to get the glue/foam off when you're removing someone else's outfitting? I have (ahem, cough, cough) a few boats I really need to outfit better and having old residue that holds sand and dirt is really annoying.

Acetone has been suggested but I know it can soften a gel coat if you're not careful.

Acetone is too volatile, potentially harmful to the boat and won't dissolve some glues. Lacquer thinner is a better choice. If there is glue residue that is solidly bonded to the surface, there is no need to remove it unless there's too much buildup. Any loosely adhered adhesive residue should be removed.

As for the new adhesive, Weldwood Gel Contact Cement is my favorite, along with Lexel or any of the GOOP products.

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I've used Barge contact cement which has worked well and did not absorb into the foam. I recently used Weldwood and you have to use multiple coats. I found it to absorb rapidly into the foam, is not as thick as Barge and did not hold as well.

NRS sells H2O contact cement with their foam kits and it can be purchased separately.

Dave

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  • 11 months later...

I'm bringing this back to the top to let everyone know I've not had any more issues for the past year and ended up using some contact cement. That being said, I've come to the personal conclusion the foam lumbar pad creates a couple hotspots for me and gets my sciatic nerves firing on multi day touring. I had surgery several years ago and it can flare up from time to time, so it's likely just a personal thing I've got to deal with and not indicative of the setup itself. I think I'm going to try to install a traditional back-band at the end of the season.

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getting in...

weldwood contact cement applied liberally to both surfaces. wait 5 minutes or so for it to get tacky...place the piece. sit in the boat (bring a book) for awhile until that bond is secure and then later use weights, bricks, sand bag, whatever to maintain pressure.

geting out...

i slide a thin, flexible metal ruler beneath and work it around...pull off the piece. then soak the crap out of the remnant with WD-40 and use a nylon brush on the end of a drill...repeat. the wd-40 seems to loosen up the adhesive pretty good and the spinning nylon brush doesn't seem to beat the crap out of the boat too badly.

generally there is some light swearing and a beer but your experience may vary.

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getting in...

weldwood contact cement applied liberally to both surfaces. wait 5 minutes or so for it to get tacky...place the piece. sit in the boat (bring a book) for awhile until that bond is secure and then later use weights, bricks, sand bag, whatever to maintain pressure.

If you follow the instructions with contact cement, which typically recommend allowing it to dry for 15-20 minutes before bringing the parts together (until the surface is no longer tacky), it bonds instantly (that's why it's called "contact" cement) and there is no need for sitting in the boat or applying pressure to the parts for any length of time.

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the way i do allows for a little bit of movement once the sticky pieces are joined and allows you to make sure it's in the right place before it becomes more or less "permanent"....so far it's worked. does the same hold true if i wait till it's past tacky? honestly 5 minutes or so is all the patience i have for this sort of thing and i don't think i've ever tried it that far out.

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