PeterB Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Two days in the San Juan Islands, Washington May 15, 16I was to be attending a conference in Seattle on May 18-21, so I arranged to fly out several days early to paddle for a couple of days in the Pacific Northwest area. I set my sights on Orcas Island in the San Juan archipelago, about 3 hours northwest of Seattle by car and ferry, an area I had never paddled before.I was traveling with luggage for business, so I packed only my minimal personal paddling gear- (drysuit, water shoes, helmet, towbelt, vhf, charts, compass , and a small bag of personal effects.) For the rest, I contacted old acquaintances Shawna Franklin and Leon Somme of Body Boat Blade – two of the finest paddlers and finest people anywhere- and arranged to get outfitted at their place in Eastsound on Orcas Island. I would have liked to paddle with them for a day or two but they were occupied with preparations for a big BCU coach training event at that time. So, I would be paddling alone, and I was unfamiliar with the area. The San Juans are a maze of islands, inlets, channels, passages, all set about with tidal currents. Water temperatures are about 47 degrees F year round, and weather/winds are variable.Even the experienced paddler would be hard pressed to grasp this area’s tidal patterns only from reviewing charts and standard tide tables, so local knowledge and advanced tidal information are important bordering on indispensable.Both are in ample supply in that area, but even then , I couldn’t research every bit of coastline beforehand to select the best areas for 2 days paddling, so I hired an hour’s time with Body Boat Blade to get a better overview of the area so I could come up with a plan for two days of paddling. It was money well spent. Paddling alone and feeling creaky and rusty after a harsh icebound winter of restricted paddling activity, my agenda was to paddle conservatively, be prepared to paddle through areas of tidal currents and standing waves but not play amidst them, and generally explore and amble at a relaxed pace that would allow me to enjoy and savor the area. My first day’s plan was to explore the north side of Orcas Island , meaning, of course, Matia and Sucia Islands, which could be called Jewels in the Crown of Orcas Island: two uninhabited exotic islands (Patos is a third) a few miles offshore of the north side of Orcas, set amidst a quiltwork of reefs and tidal races.I launched from North Beach, near Eastsound, skirted Parker Reef just offshore, then headed north and east and crossed to Matia Island. I was paddling almost 3 miles across an ebb current of a couple of knots, so I had prepared tidal vectors in advance, (missing the islands would not have been a good thing; beyond them lie the main shipping channels of The Straight of Georgia and Rosario Strait) but I was surprised to find that I didn’t really need my planned ferry angle, and by checking ranges on the BC mainland behind Matia, I saw that I wasn’t being set to the south as I expected to be, which I cannot explain. I could only conclude that the complicated tidal currents in this area don’t always conform to what’s on paper ; currents diverge and then re- join, and can be altered by factors as remote as seasonal variations in rainfall, and even the outflow of the Fraser River.In any event my 3 mile crossing was easy, and arriving at Matia island I was greeted by a remote green netherworld of Douglas fir, western red cedar, and madrone trees, ferns and mosses, all forming an emerald green crown on the island’s otherworldly rock formations.The weird rock formations of Matia and Sucia (extending to Patos and then the Canadian Gulf Islands) are “unmetamorphosed conglomerates, grits , arkosic sandstones and shales.”, dating from the Triassic Age, which were in turn scoured by glaciers in the ice age, resulting in something out of HR Giger-designed fantasy movie set. One embankment on Sucia island is filled with fossils , mostly bivalves, when this area was a shallow Triassic sea. (this diorama is of a Cretaceous Sea, but you get the idea )I then ambled easily down the north side of Matia with the last of the ebb , rounded its southeastern tip , stopped briefly in a classic Pacific NW cove : (gravel beach, with jumbled big driftwood logs )and paddled back up the south side of Matia to where I first arrived, then crossed about one mile over to Sucia Island. I had timed this crossing for slack as the area (it's called Danger Reef on the chart ) might be a bit messy for the lone paddler at other times. Sucia Island is a grander version of Matia, shaped like a lobster claw, with finger like islands and channels amidst a vast bay, and rock formations even weirder and cooler than Matia . The yellow flowers everywhere were Pacific stone crop. I stopped for lunch and a rest, then paddled up the outer (north) side of Sucia, rounded its NW corner and ambled a into a cozy bay harboring a couple of yachts, Stopping to check out the campgrounds there, I immediately thought of my friend Warren licking his chops at the prospect of camping amidst tall trees and ferns on his trip to this area last summer.I remounted, paddled out of the cove, checked out another campground on the island’s south side, and, all set up for my return to Orcas , I crossed back from Sucia to the beach where I had started. All in all it was a grand day, about 15 miles in the saddle. I was paddling a Romany Surf and I liked it very much. I never needed skeg at any time in two days and the boat gave a feel of indifference to beam currents , eddies, wind waves; , also a great keyhole cockpit; easy to get in and of. It felt a bit plodding (“hey, it’s a Romany”, said Shawna) but I timed my crossing back to Orcas ; exactly two miles in 30 minutes or a maybe minute or two more, : that’s 4 knots or close to it , so: maybe not as plodding as it felt. The next day, I drove down to the southwestern corner of Orcas, found Cormorant Cove, and set out from there to explore the Wasp Islands and Crane Passage.I paddled between Orcas and Jones island with the last of the ebb but against a head wind of close to 15 knots, so progress was somewhat arduous , until I got into the lee of the Wasp Islands. I elected to save the outer side of Jones island for my return trip, at which time I'd have benefit of the flood. I dawdled through Cranes Passage at close to slack , rounded the island and headed back out, wound my way through the Wasp Islands and stopped on Yellow island, which was definitely the highlight of my day, Yellow Island is a reserve and a haven to wildflowers, which were mostly in bloom on this fine spring day; harsh paintbrush , yellow stonecrop , yarrow, western buttercups, buttercup, cama lilies.In my wanderings around the island I happened upon the caretaker's cabin. The caretaker wasn’t there, which was too bad: I could tell from his dwelling that he would be a very… interesting person. Shawna told me he lives on the island year round and is sort of a legendary figure in these parts.I reluctantly bade adieu to this enchanted island and set off for my return trip which this time took me around the outside of Jones island, now paddling with the flood. At the south end of Jones island I set my sights on Cormorant Cove and crossed back to it, ending my most excellent adventure. The San Juans are highly recommended as a paddling destination. The islands are scenic, pastoral and would make a great spot for a paddling vacation. One could easily come up with a week's worth of paddling: day or camping trips: With Body Boat Blade as a local resource, I think a reasonably prepared and aware L3-ish paddler armed with a bit of local knowledge could find all sorts of paddles here and the more advanced paddler would be satisfied as well. I hope to return and would council others to do so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brambor Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Great report Peter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BethS Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Fabulous, i've always wanted to go to this area, thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prudenceb Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Peter,Glad to see that you've channeled a little Proust in your trip report! Nice text and pix. Thanks for sharing!pru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyork Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Great report and eye-popping pix of wildflowers. Since you have to travel so far to get there, seems like a 5-day minimum ought to satisfy, given availability of campsites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcotton Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Great report and incredible pictures. ThanksJanice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin-HG Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Peter,Thank you for sharing your experience.in the San Juan islands. Wish I will paddle there sometime.Robin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
... Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Peter,Wow! Thank you for a great trip report and pictures that brought back great memories. I would hope every paddler could tour and camp in the San Juan Islands. They are really special. And the camp sites are unbelievable!!You are correct, Body Boat Blade is a super outfitter and they have expert knowledge. I love the motto on the door to their shop, “Be Safe, Have Fun, Learn”. That is what it is all about! As you say, it is all about tidal currents, learning how to maintain a range and staying out of the shipping channels. If you time your journey to the phases of the moon, you can go from an L3 to an L4+ level trip. It is, however, best to have knowledge of the tidal flows and go with the flow. I like the “Captn. Jacks Tide and Current Almanac, 2014 Puget Sound Edition” as the best reference source to plan your journey. (See link below)http://www.amazon.com/Captn-Jacks-Current-Almanac-Edition/dp/187825877X/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402404213&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=captain+jack+puget+soundWarren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Peter,Wow! Thank you for a great trip report and pictures that brought back great memories. I would hope every paddler could tour and camp in the San Juan Islands. They are really special. And the camp sites are unbelievable!!You are correct, Body Boat Blade is a super outfitter and they have expert knowledge. I love the motto on the door to their shop, “Be Safe, Have Fun, Learn”. That is what it is all about! As you say, it is all about tidal currents, learning how to maintain a range and staying out of the shipping channels. If you time your journey to the phases of the moon, you can go from an L3 to an L4+ level trip. It is, however, best to have knowledge of the tidal flows and go with the flow. I like the “Captn. Jacks Tide and Current Almanac, 2014 Puget Sound Edition” as the best reference source to plan your journey. (See link below)http://www.amazon.com/Captn-Jacks-Current-Almanac-Edition/dp/187825877X/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402404213&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=captain+jack+puget+soundWarrenAs for the currents you can go to the source, it's free as we have already paid for it. http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/currents14/cpred2.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kate Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I am envious, Peter! A most excellent adventure in a beautiful place. I think you were bold to take on that 3-mile crossing alone, although obviously you did your homework.Kate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katherine Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Beautiful report, Peter, sounds like a fantastic trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEL Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Peter:Greatly enjoyed pics and description. Few things are as rewarding a paddling solo in a new area with beautiful surroundings. It must have been a wonderful time on the water. Strange how journeys in "slow" boats, even those that feel "slow", end up being not slow when the day is done. Ed Lawson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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