Brian Nystrom

>Broken bubbles in the gelcoat of my cockpit coaming have >eroded into some sharp and nasty crevices. > >>>>>I have epoxy for this. Epoxy work is OK for the workshop. >I need to replace gel coat and/or fiberglass just posterior >to my skeg opening on the hull from draggin the boat over >sand. > >>>>Whatta ya think? bring gel coat, does anyone have extra white gel coat or should I just buy it in small quantity? Actually, I'd prefer not to do gelcoat repairs at this outfitting workshop, as the fumes would be too much in combination with what we already have to deal with. I would like to do a separate workshop on the subject of fiberglass & gelcoat repair at a later date. If you want to try it on your own (it's not difficult), what you want is called "finish gelcoat". Unlike "laminating gelcoat", finish gelcoat will cure completely in the presence of air. West Marine sells repair kits with finish gelcoat and tints: http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/1934454_f.jpg http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...productId=59276 ...or you can buy just the gelcoat separately in a pint can. http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/wmwaxgelcoat_f.jpg http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=125479 For doing this work, you'll also need an organic vapor respirator, latex or nitrile gloves, 220, 400 and 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper w/sanding block and some polishing compound for restoring the gloss. >I've been meaning to replace the scrawney (sp?) skeg line >since I got the boat (6 years ago). > >>>>>>I'll just pick up some line at REI, anything special to know about this type of line? I've got several hundred feet of black deck line. I also have black bungee cord. My prices for club members are better than the stores. >Do we just do what we need to for our particular boats or is >there a specific curriculum for repairs? This is a workshop, rather than a class. Bring your stuff and fix it or modify it as you like.

You're in!

>Count me in. I'll contribute two sawhourses. Done. >By the way, is it both days, or pick one? Or perhaps it >depends on the demand. Either, or. Unless there is a huge outpouring of participants, there should be no problem for you to do both days if you like. >Will/could there be a gel-coat repair component? My hull is >still fairly banged up from the summer and fall. I wouldn't >mind some cosmetic gel-coat work too, to fix up the worst of >the non-threatening but ugly scratches on the hull and deck. I'd like to do a fiberglass/gelcoat repair workshop, but not in conjunction with this one. Contact cement and lacquer thinner fumes are bad enough, but the styrene fumes from gelcoat and polyester resin are especially noxious. Combining the two seems like a pretty bad idea to me. There's also the issue of curing time, which can be several hours, depending on the temperature and the amount of hardener used. What I may end up doing eventually is preparing a demo, where I have a boat or test panel with damage in various stages of repair. That would allow me to demonstate the steps consecutively. I'll have a lot of time on my hands after the first of the year, so perhaps I can do something before the spring. Anyone have a busted-up boat to donate to the cause?

>Hi Brian, > >I think I would like to come again. The last meeting got my >creative juices up. Glad to hear it! > One question, I would like to replace >the cleat for my drop skeg and am wondering what hardware + >sealant to secure it with. Stainless with silicone? That should be fine. >Thanks for running this again. My pleasure.

A masik won't work in the Romany's keyhole cockpit, unless you're willing to give up the keyhole. It would be possible to make rigid brace (fiberglass, wood, aluminum) that attached to the existing thigh braces, then pad it to suit. An alternative would be to install more aggressive knee/thigh hooks to the existing thigh braces.

Richard Najarian - Sat and Sun, 1 boat Dee Hall* Jim Brayden* Jeff Casey - Sat and Sun, 2 boats Deb Dempesy - Sat and Sun (O), 1 boat (?) David Lewis Sean Noonan - 1 boat Karen Gladstone - 1 boat Leslie Beale - 1 boat, Sunday Kevin O'Malley - 1 boat, Sunday Liz Neumeier - 1 boat Keith Attenborough* - 2 boats Scott Camlin* Sat and Sun Mike Kulick - Sat PM and Sun, 1 boat* Michelle Kulick - Sat PM and Sun, 1 boat Mark Stephens - Sat, 1 boat Paula Riegel Gerry S* - Sat & Sun Shane Smith - Sat, 1 boat Rick Crangle* - Sat and Sun, 1 boat Bethany Erikson (?) Jill Aaron - Sat, 2 boats Mary Bennett (O) Patty Phelan - 1 boat Mike Crouse - Sat and Sun, Kim Flint - Sat and Sun, Suzanne Pritchett - Sat, 1 boat Marjorie Woodwell - Sat* (O)and Sun, 1 boat Sean Noonan - Sun, 1 boat Colin MacLay - Sun, 1 boat NOTES: *will assist (O) observer (?) tentative

The first workshop was quite sucessful, but several would-be participants couldn't make it, so we've decided to do it again! Thanks once more to Richard Najarian for obtaining the space for us. Date: January 17 & 18, 2004. Location: Waltham, Ma We will probably be in the same building as the first workshop, but possibly in a different unit. The final details will be posted as soon as we know for sure. Time: 9AM - 5PM both days. The location is huge and we can easily accommodate 20 boats or more. Those interested in participating should post here. If anyone is interested in assisting, even for part of a day, please let me know. ------------------------ DETAILS OF THE WORKSHOP: Deck rigging- I've got black deck line and bungee cord in bulk. If you want other colors or reflective lines, you'll need to bring them. Also, please bring scissors and a cigarette lighter or small torch for cutting and melting the ends of the rigging. I've been able to obtain SOME wood beads for deck rigging, but if you're interested in installing beads on your deck lines, you should probably hit your local craft shop (Michaels, AC Moore). The beads I use are from Lara's Crafts and the part numbers are 10006 (3/4"/19mm) and 10007 (1"/25mm). They run $2.99 for bags of 27 and 18, respectively. I'll bring a drill press and bits for drilling out the beads to fit the deck line material. Cockpit outfitting - I will bring minicel foam in 1/8", 1/2", 1", 2" and 3" thicknesses. This will give us materials for hip/thigh/knee padding, seats, backrests, bulkheads/bulkhead pads, masiks, bilge pump holders and anything else that we can dream up. NOTE: I'm low on 3" foam, so if anyone wants to do a bulkhead footrest or carved seat, please let me know ASAP so I can get more foam. I need to know by the end of next week. ALL participcants are strongly encouraged to bring safety glasses (or eyeglasses if you wear them). An organic vapor respirator is MANDATORY for those doing foam work, for protection from glue fumes. We'll do our best to keep the fumes to a minimum, but they're unavoidable when working in the vicinity of contact cement and cleaning solvents. People interested doing "foam art" will also need to bring contact cement (Weldwood Gel is recommended), a Stanley 21-115 Surform tool (the small red or yellow one), a pint or more of lacquer thinner (for cleaning surfaces) and a roll of paper towels. All of these items are available inexpensively at your local home center and have uses beyond working on kayaks, so they're worth owning anyway (a respirator makes cleaning the shower much more pleasant). If you wish to share tools, by all means arrange to do so. I'll bring some tools and supplies, but feel free to bring anything that you think will be useful. If you have questions, please ask. BTW, DO NOT be tempted to buy water-based contact cement. While it may be more environmentally friendly, it doesn't work for our purposes. I plan to bring a band saw again for cutting foam. Deck mounted tow rigs - Last time, thanks to the able assistance of Dee Hall and Rick Crangle, Leslie Beale got a new deck-mounted tow rig. Dee has indicated that she may be available at some point during the weekend if there are others who want to deck tows on their boats. Other - We can also do things like installing back bands, pad eyes for deck rigging and so forth. If there's something specific you want to do that I haven't mentioned, feel free to ask. If anyone has problems sourcing any of the supplies they need, let me know and I'll do my best to find them for you. All materials will be available at whatever they cost me. If you need specific pricing, just ask for a quote. I find that sawhorses or other stands make working on boats much more enjoyable. I have a few that I can bring, but nowhere near enough to go around, so if you got 'em, bring 'em. Carpet scraps for resting a boat on the floor are another alternative. The emphasis of this workshop is on outfitting rather than repairs. If you have a minor repair that needs to be done, by all means ask about it. See you there! Brian PS - for additional ideas, see my Webshots albums at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom

Neoprene is like Lycra and fleece in that you can trim it without needing to finish the edge(s). The nylon is bonded to the rubber, so it won't fray.

FWIW, I find that I use my 3mm hood by far the most. It's warm enough for most purposes (even "tea bag" duty during leader training) and doesn't affect my hearing as much as thicker hoods. I use a 6 or 7mm hood for cold water rolling practice, but it's much too warm and restrictive for plain ol' paddling. As with anything neoprene, fit is critical. A thick, loose hood will be far less protective that a thinner, snug-fitting hood. Also, a hood that's comfortable is more likely to be on your head when you need it, rather than languishing on your deck or in a hatch. With thin hoods, the material probably doesn't matter that much as long as the fit is good, but in thicker hoods, Hyperstretch neoprene will probably make a big difference in comfort. All hood affect your hearing, but if they keep water out of your ears, it makes a big difference. Again, that's a fit issue.

While wandering around Wilderness House, Linda and I stumbled upon a hood that seems ideal for paddling. It's the O'Neill's Coldwater Hood pictured below. It's made of 3mm skin-out neoprene, which reduces evaporative cooling. The short brim is stiff enough to hold its shape well. The long neck will overlap a dry suit neck seal and the adjustable face closure allows a comfortable fit that seals well. http://www.cleanlinesurf.com/shop/images/1986.jpg W.H. has size medium and large in stock. This vendor has them in stock and offers free shipping: http://www.cleanlinesurf.com/ Looks like a nice Xmas gift for the paddler on your list!

...the BCU has a separate Greenland certification, or at least they were working on one (in conjunction with a midwest Greenland paddler who's known for being as dogmatic as the BCU). I haven't heard of anyone who's been through the program, so perhaps it doesn't exist yet. Frankly, that wouldn't bother me as Greenland technique is not something that can easily be codified and crammed into a mold, nor should it be. If you decide to take the BCU training, I'd suggest that you do it with a stick, since that's the paddle you're going to use. My understanding is that you can use whatever paddle you want, but you still have to perform the skills in the prescribed manner. I've heard that there is a lot of variation among instructors and assessors in their attitude toward GP's, so you might want to shop around before plunking down your money. Another option would be to spend some time training with actual Greenland instructors. Our own Keith Attenborough and John Raleigh are trained professional instructors and accomplished twiggers. I hear that their coaching rates are quite reasonable. Dan, Turner, Will, Tony and the boys at Walden Pond (aka, the "Walden Pond Scum") will work with you, gratis. As the response to the recent NSPN clinic with them attests, they know their stuff and communicate it well. If you don't mind travelling to NJ, Ray Killen is an excellent instructor (as is his wife, Margaret) and he wrote the ACA's Greenland coach curriculum. If you're looking for a break from the winter, Greg Stamer and Mark Molina are down in Florida. Both have won championships in Greenland, so I'd say you'd be hard pressed to find better instruction in using a stick. While I'm sure there is much to be learned from the BCU training, it makes more sense to me to invest your time and money with people who will teach you how to be more effective with the paddle you prefer, rather than teaching you techniques that are less than optimal for it.

According to Scott, at one point the seas were running 34 feet every 12 seconds. I don't know if I even want to SEE something like that!

Roger, Glad to hear you're doing well and making new friends. The person that bought my Silhouette is Brian Curtiss. Next time you run into him, tell him I said "Hi".

It's not difficult to change the plumbing. The simplest thing to do is to route the hose staight forward to the bulkhead, then straight down. It won't get all the water out of the boat, but it will get most of it. I routed mine forward slightly, over to the right gunwale, then back and down to the front of the seat. It was more complex and I'm not sure that it really gained me much. Either way requires unscrewing the outlet on the pump and rotating it 180 degrees. That switches it from straight down to straight forward (it's a 45 degree angled outlet mounted on a 45 degree angled surface). It's easy to see how it works when you've got it in front of you.

Foredeck mounted pumps (as opposed to aft deck mounted Chimp pumps) do not use an up and down motion; they are operated by pushing/pulling the handle back and forth.

...and IMO, they're not all they're cracked up to be, at least not as they're typically implemented. They seem great when you jump in a dry boat with one and pump the handle one-handed. No big deal, right? Try it with water in the boat and it's a whole 'nuther story. The pump is much harder to operate and requires two hands if you have to empty any significant amount of water. That puts you right back in the situation of not being able to brace quickly, just as with a hand pump. I also found that the pump handle can be difficult to retrieve from its recess when wearing gloves, though that may vary from boat to boat. There seems to be a simple remedy for all this and I'm surprized that nobody in the kayak business has done it. Make the handle with a U-shaped end, like an oarlock. That would allow the paddler to drop the paddle shaft into it and pump with both hands still firmly on the paddle (though moving the hands closer together would be advisable, in order to minimize stress on the paddle shaft). Bracing would require nothing more than lifting the paddle free from the handle, which would be largely automatic as the boat rocks on waves. One could still use the handle without a paddle in it, if desired. Who knows, maybe the Brit' boat companies will catch onto this by the 22nd century? ;-) Another problem with some deck pump installations is that the pickup hose comes straight down from the pump to the hull. While this is great for pumping efficiency, it's also right where you're likely to kick the !#@$ out of it when wet exiting. It's also right where it can prevent the paddler from twisting around from face down to face up during an assisted re-entry. On my Nordkapp, I re-routed the pickup to a better location. It required more tubing, elbows and clamps, but it was out of the way. In light of all this, foot pumps seem like a better solution.

Handheld pumps are quite useful, but mainly when you've got assistance to steady the boat, so your full attention and effort can be directed toward pumping. For solo paddling, I can imagine many situations where you simply wouldn't be able to use one effectively. In such situations, bailing wouldn't be much of an improvement. Being able to seal the cockpit and maintain two hands on the paddle would be a real boon. Well, I've be toying with the idea of modifying the Chimp pump I removed from my Pintail for foot use, then re-installing it. Perhaps it's time to give it a shot.

Bob, I have a few pictures of mods I made to my Northwater rig at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom So far, I'm quite happy with the way it performs since I modified it.

I would never think of a reliable roll as a substitute for a bilge pump. While the former can reduce the need for the latter, it can never eliminate it. There are plenty of ways to get water in your cockpit other than a wet exit (rough water launching comes to mind). When you need a pump, you NEED a pump. Unless, that is, you can figure out a way to empty your cockpit by rolling. The advantage of a foot and electric pumps is that you have both hands free to use the paddle for locomotion or bracing while pumping out the cockpit. It strikes me that although skilled paddlers may not need a pump often, they're probably more likely to be in serious conditions when they do need one, making a hands-free pump even more desirable. If I paddled solo, I would consider it a necessity.

I took a close look at the rig you've got and I don't see why you couldn't just remove the card and daisy chain the rope.

They make several suitable systems that you can see at: http://www.northwater.com/Paddling_Equipme...a_kayaking.html I use a modified version of the Quick Release Rescue Tow. The Sea Kayak Tow line (waist model) is also popular. The 25' Quick Tow is another reasonable option. Northwater gear is well constructed and reasonably priced. They're available at coastal EMS stores and probably at some of the local specialty dealers.

...this looks interesting: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/ba.../qx/product.htm It'll probably run $75-$100 to have a relief zipper installed, which I would recommend highly, but it's definitely a good suit to start with. If you like, you can install latex booties easily. The high, fleece-lined collar sounds like an interesting feature. I can certainly think of many occasions where I would have liked one.

This is too funny!!! ----------------------- Reprint from Sheet&YardArm.Com chat board, July 1487: Topic: Magnetic needles Posted by: The Galloping Genoan Jul-10-87 2:57 P.M. (GMT) Hi guys! Thinking 'bout sailing west for 6 weeks to reach china, wonder if I should buy one of those magnetic needle things. What do you guys think about 'em? Thanks, Cristobal Posted by: Old Salt Jul-10-87 4:13 P.M. (GMT) You damn fool! Sail west, huh? You'll fall off the friggin' earth that way, idgit! Fernando Posted by: Southron Jul-10-87 5:31 P.M. (GMT) Hey, Cristobal, what's up. Prince Henry was asking about you the other day. Yeah, those needles can come in handy, as long as you don't sail too near any iron motherlodes, and as long as you don't lose all your heavy parchment patches, and as long as some clumsy tar doesn't trip over the box and smash it all to smithereens. Better not neglect your star charting, odds are you'll need before it's all over. SYOTO, Bartolomeu Posted by: Whale Belly Jul-10-87 6:37 P.M. (GMT) Cristobal, your obviosly a reel smart guy who can apprecate this so let me share a secret with you. Dont tell nobody becuz I dont have enough of these for everbody. When you get out there on ye waves whats ye biggest thing you got to fear? Falling over, right? Capsizing, they call it. Well I've got ye invention that will make that worry a thing of ye past – its two specilly treated whale bellys that you attach to ye sides of your ship and fill full of air. That way you cant tump over! Ye inflated bellys keep you uprite in any see! I call them "sponsons" and if you'll just stop by Plymouth on ye way out I'll get you all fixed up for a very resonabil price. Sir John Posted by: Coaster Jul-10-87 9:14 P.M. (GMT) Hey, Gallop, how long you been sailing anyway? I'm guessing you're a rank beginner by the way you talk. You sound like a moron. It's pretty clear you know nothing of the sea. WTF do you want to go out in the middle of the ocean for anyway? It's guys like you that give this sport a bad name. I bet you don't even wear a PFD! I ought to let you go on and get killed but my conscious won't let me. So let me give you a piece of advice – don't go out of sight of land! You can have plenty of fun right along the coast there without endangering everybody and making people afraid of the sea by going out there and getting killed. Alfonso Posted by: The Galloping Genoan Jul-11-87 5:48 A.M. (GMT) Thanks for the advice, Bart – sounds like I'd better get some spares. And what's the deal with passing iron mountains? What happens there, and how close do you have to be? What did Prince Henry say? He wasn't very nice last time I saw him. And to you other jerks – I'm asking about needles, could you please stay on topic? Thanks, Cristobal Posted by: Old Salt Jul-11-87 6:24 A.M. (GMT) Friggin' dago, you still here? GO AWAY NEWBIE! Portugal rules the seas. Fernando Posted by: Whale Belly Jul-11-87 6:36 A.M. (GMT) If all I cared about was mysef I wudnt say anoter word after that insult but I'm just trying to save a few lives here. Your not ye only one reading this tread ya no. So when your drowning there besides your capsized ship and thinking, "I wish I had sponsons now" maybe somebody else will lern from your errors. Sir John Posted by: Weevilly Biscuits Jul-11-87 7:45 A.M. (GMT) Ye needle can be an invaluable aide, but don't let it take ye place of common sense. Ye sun riseth in ye west, sailing west is easy. But it does get dark and ye sky gets covered with cloud, so I always carry a needle too. On ye question about ye iron, I don't know a lot but I can share my experience. In ye north sea there's an iron island. When I pass within 3 leagues of it ye needle points to ye island, turning toward it and following it as I pass so you would think I was sailing in a circle. At 6 leagues ye needle moves in ye island's general direction but only a quarter or so. At 12 leagues ye effect is very small. So, in my experience, you have to be pretty close for it to matter. Francis Posted by: Private Land Owner Jul-11-87 8:37 A.M. (GMT) Cristobal, let me ask you, when you're sailing off in the lonely seas and you come up on a beautiful island, are you planning to land and traipse about the place? Stealing water and wood and tracking your muddy boots everywhere? Is that what you have in mind? Because if it is, I just want to point out that you'll be TRESPASSING and you'll deserve to be hung from the highest ... (CONTINUED 926 more lines) Posted by: Southron Jul-11-87 10:15 A.M. (GMT) Prince Henry just asked where you were, said he hadn't seen you in a while. What's up? You two have a spat? On the motherlodes, Biscuits is right, you have to be pretty close. How close depends on the size of the lode. You remember the Saint Teresa Mountain on the coast of Africa? That one must have a lot of iron, that one bends my needle from 30 leagues off. The main thing is don't rely on the needle alone – check the stars and sun and moon and make sure they agree. SYOTO, Bartolomeu Posted by: Pequatcha Jul-11-87 10:24 A.M. (GMT) Any iron nearby will bend the needle. I heard from my father that the way Eannes discovered Madeira was that a sailor set a bucket of nails beside the box where Eannes set up his float and needle. He thought he was sailing to Morocco. Posted by: Coaster Jul-11-87 10:34 A.M. (GMT) Moron, this is on topic – are we not talking about the sea? Safety first – think how your irresponsible actions can affect others. Alfonso Posted by: Neptune Jul-11-87 10:36 A.M. (GMT) Cristobal, what kind of ship are you sailing? I hope it's not a Coleman. Pedro Posted by: Whale Belly Jul-11-87 11:31 A.M. (GMT) It's not too lait to save your life, Cristobal. Remember: sponsons = safty. Sir John Posted by: The Galloping Genoan Jul-11-87 2:57 P.M. (GMT) Thanks for the help, guys. Bought two needles today, with four float boxes and four big parcels of parchment. Ready to set out as soon as I can find some backing. Bart, Prince Henry turned me down flat on this westward crossing. Do you know anybody up in Spain I could talk to? Thanks, Cristobal