Brian Nystrom

If I'm not mistaken, what Jed is doing is directing people to the skills sessions at Glen Lake. There's no reason that the same couldn't be done for other skills sessions, unless the people running them would be overburdened.

Liz, I share your mixed feelings about this proposal. I tend to feel the same way I do about seatbelt and helmet laws, that it should be a matter of personal choice, at least once you reach the age of consent. However, I don't think it would behoove us to oppose this measure, as it would certainly come back to bite us. I do think it would be worthwhile to approach the crafters of the bill with some suggestions that would make it more effective, such as: - In light of the fact that the majority of paddling deaths are of canoeists (on fresh water), it should be ammended to include canoeists in addition to kayakers. See the ACA report from 2003 for the figures. Even more effective would be to include all watercraft under 20' in length, but that would probably be fought hard by the power boating lobby. - The language should be changed from "whistle" to "audible signalling device" (or something similar), so that horns and other more effective means of signaling are included and encouraged. - It NEEDS to be ammended to include Type V PFD's, which includes inflatables.

Jill, I agree with much of what you say, but I have to take issue with the diffentiation between various bodies of water. Capsizes and the resultant fatalities can and do occur on all types of water. Fresh water is often more dangerous than the ocean, since springtime temps of ponds and lakes are typically lower than ocean temps and rivers/streams are often colder all year, depending on their size and source. If you read last year's ACA report of padding fatalities, the majority of deaths are of canoeists on fresh water. One thing is certain, if this law is going to be passed, it should be ammended to include canoeists. I think it is also important that the language be changed from "whistle" to "audible signalling device", so that horns and other more effective means of signaling are included.

...and remove all the text. Not that I'm trying to get rid of you or anything...

>At this time, my only concern is the location for the >discharge fitting. > >Top deck discharge: > Pro - protected from damage. > Con - water discharges up in the air, etc. I've seen people with top discharge pumps (and others assisting them) take a lot of water in the face when emptying a boat. That pretty much turned me off to the idea. > >Side discharge (above water line): > Pro - water does not splash in your face. > Con - fitting is vulnerable to being broken by > a strong blow (rock, boat, etc.) In my experience, this is simply not an issue. The bulkhead fittings you can buy are intended for use on bigger boats and are very rugged. You forgot one other advantage to side discharge; if you cock your hip a bit, you can soak your friends from quite a distance.

...for pumping out one's own boat have been dedicated installations. Typically, these involve the following: - A high capacity bilge, pump (Rule, Atwood, etc.) mounted behind the seat. - A rechargeable 12V battery pack installed in a watertight container like a Pelican box. This is usually mounted either behind the seat or in the day hatch. - A waterproof switch mounted where in can be activated with the spray skirt in place. In some cases, it's been mounted through the deck. In others it's been mounted inside or below the coaming rim and it's activated by pushing in on the skirt to reach the switch. - A thru-hull exhaust for the pump. This type of installation eliminates the problems you experienced with the Water Buster, but obviously it can't be used on someone else's boat.

The sea seemed intent on punishing me that day and I couldn't figure out why, until I discovered the open zipper. Lesson learned. Regarding the dry suit booties, these suits come without anything on the ends of the legs, which would make them much less than dry if booties weren't added. Apparently, the Canadian military customizes these suit for each pilot. Nice, eh?

Sing has one of these, so perhaps he can provide some feedback. The only comments I have on them are that they're a bit heavier and stiffer than most commercial dry suits, and they certainly appear to be very well made. As for installing booties, it's pretty easy. You can get everthing you need from OS Systems at: http://www.ossystems.com The price list for parts is at: http://www.ossystems.com/pricelists/repair.html

I've paddled both the strip built and S&G versions of the Night Heron and have found them to be very well balanced in the wind. They're also very responsive and easy to turn, which makes correcting course quite easy. Unless your experience with test paddling them has been different, I would forego the skeg for now. Although it's a bit more work a skeg can be added after the boat is completed, if necessary. On a Night Heron, I would think a small, fixed skeg would be all that's necessary if you find that you need to trim the handling a bit. There have been several posts on the Kayak Building Bulleting Board at www.kayakforum.com on constructing retractable skeg systems. Consider building your own, since you're building the boat and a wood/glass skeg would be more "in character". The blade and box are easily constructed from the same material as your boat (okoume plywood). If you want a cable skeg, tubing and fittings for such a system are available at Home Depot and most hardware stores. The cable itself can be found at West Marine. Rope skeg systems similar to the VCP rope skeg are even easier to duplicate.

>Brian, can we do this in outfitting workshop? (Only partly >kidding -- sounds like a significant project) It is. If you want to use the time at the workshop to do this, be my guest.

I'd like to get an idea of who is going to attend on which day(s) and at approximately what time(s), so I can make sure space will not be an issue. I'm not limiting anyone at this point and I doubt that will be necessary. I would also like to know how many boats you plan to bring. Where possible, I've filled in some details in advance, based on posts and emails. Please review them and advise me of any changes. Rather than taking up bandwidth here, please email me the information at brian.nystrom@att.net .

There are couple of options. Fiberglass and Kevlar tape is available in several widths, or you can purchase cloth and cut your own strip. With tape, one edge is sewn, which leaves a raised edge that must be trimmed off or scraped/sanded down after application. With cloth, have to piece it together. Neither of these is a significant obstacle. IIRC, there is a good article on keel strip intallation on CLC's web site www.clcboats.com

I shot a few photos of the process while reparing my Anas Acuta and put them in an album at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom I guess I'm ready for more rocks!

You're quite welcome to attend again, Mary. Actually, I'd like to take a look at some of the photos you have from the first session so we can put something together for the web site.

Liz, I spoke with Phil Wong at Kajak Sport. He indicated that they make three versions of their Mini Day Hatch (knee tube) to fit the three boats they sell. If you haven't already done so, make sure you order the one that's specifically designed for the Vivianne. He also indicated that it can be installed with a sealant rather than epoxy and fiberglass, which makes things much simpler. It sounds like all we'll need to do is clean and lightly sand the mating surfaces, then bond it in place with Lexel, GOOP or 3M Fast Cure 4200/5200. It will need to be wedged in place while the sealant cures (a good use for a paddle float), but if we install it on Sat., it should be OK by Sunday. It should be a piece o' cake.

You were already on the list (thanks to Richard), Liz. Do you have a Kajak Sport knee tube for the boat? I'll need some details as to how it needs to be mounted, unless you already have all the supplies you need.

You're on the list, Jill. Do you have a knee tube to install in the boat? I'll need some details as to how it needs to be mounted, unless you already have all the supplies you need.

No problem either way.

No problem Shane, you're in.

>Brian >I can help out one or both days. I can bring 3 sets of >horses, tools, extension cords, cordless drills, etc. Let >me know what's needed. Thanks Gerry, that would be great! All of the above would be useful, as it's beginning to look like we're going to have a packed house.

You're on the list, Paula.

By all means, come to the workshop, Mark. I'll put you on the list.

I'll be making up some pump holders in advance of the workshop. They seemed to be the most popular item at the first one.

There should be a lot to see and there will definitely be an abudance of opinions to consider and the workshop. You can always start out with some basics (hip & thigh pads, deck rigging, etc.), then modify them later as you get a better feel for what works best for you. One of the nice things about most outfitting is that it's not permanent and can be easily modified at any time. If you decide that you just want to observe, that's fine, too. I just need a name so I can add you to the list.