Brian Nystrom

I didn't list the Bahiya because the weight rating for it is 154-253lbs. That might be reasonably low volume for larger paddlers, but it's really pushing the limit for smaller paddlers. It's nearly the same size as an Explorer. IIRC, that's the boat the Bahiya was designed to compete against.

I've added the Idun to the list. For some reason, it's not on the BBK website.

The main purpose for doing this is to make the boat easier to edge. The trade-off is that it reduces initial stability and a 1" change can do so pretty dramatically. It's important to keep in mind that although raising the seat may improve a paddler's ability to control the boat a bit, it does not change the way the boat sits in the water. It's basically a Band-Aid, not a cure for the underlying problem of a lightweight paddler in a too-big boat.

Betsie Bay..............Idun....................16' x 20"

Betsie Bay..............Valkyrie................17' x 20.5"

Current Designs.........Slipstream..............16' x 22"

Dagger..................Meridian SK S*..........16' x 22"

Eddyline................Falcon 16*..............16' x 20.5"

Impex...................Montauk.................16' x 22"

Mariner.................Elan....................16'1" x 21.5"

Necky...................Chatham 16..............16'5" x 22"

Nigel Dennis Kayaks.....Romany LV...............16' x 21.5"

Nigel Foster............Rumour*.................16' x 19"

P & H...................Capella RM 160..........16'2" x 22"

P & H...................Capella 163.............16'5" x 22"

P & H...................Vela....................15'8" x 21.25"

P & H...................Sirius S................17' x 20"

VCP (now VSK)...........Anas Acuta..............17'2" x 20.5"

Wilderness Systems......Sparrow Hawk*...........16'5" x 21.25"

Wilderness Systems......Tempest 165/165 Pro.....16'6" x 21.5"

* - Out of production, but probably available on the used market

I agree with Jed. Unless the boat is lee-cocking (turning downwind), the fact that the bow rides high is not a problem in and of itself, nor is it a design flaw per se. While the bow riding high may be the most noticeable result of having too little weight in the boat, the rest of the boat is riding higher, too. Trying to artifically push the bow down for aesthetic reasons WILL create problems, as it will unbalance the handling and will cause serious weathercocking.

The issue really is that it's too big of a boat for someone Mary's size, unless they're carrying a load of camping gear. As I mentioned above, simply lowering the deck of a boat does not make it perfect for smaller paddlers, especially as a day boat; it simply improves the fit. Ideally, the entire boat would be scaled down to reduce it's buoyancy. Otherwise, the boat rides above the designed waterline of the hull. How much of a problem, if any, this creates varies from one design to the next. Some boats (such as the VCP Pintail and Anas Acuta) handle a broad range of paddler weights without difficulty. Others don't.

A long boat like the Explorer is going to be harder for a smaller paddler to control than a shorter boat would be. If the ends of the boat are out of the water, reducing the waterline, it will make the boat more prone to being twisted and turned about by wind and waves. Is that the kind of control issue Mary is having? The shorter waterline will also lower the top speed of the hull, assuming that the paddler has the strength to push the boat to its limits.

It's frequently postulated that the best boats for smaller paddlers are shorter and narrower. Linda's experience seems to bear this out. Of her four boats (Pintail, Anas Acuta, Rumour, custom skin-on-frame), the ones she rates as the fastest (the Rumour and skin boat) are both 16' boats with 19" beams that are designed to suit her weight. Although they're shorter boats, they are riding at their designed waterlines, providing maximum speed and control. Unfortunately, such boats aren't readily available commercially. The next best thing would be a boat with a more standard beam width (~21") that's designed with smaller paddlers in mind. The Wilderness Systems Tempest 165, Necky Chatham 16, Betsie Bay Valkyrie, NDK Romany LV, VCP Anas Acuta, Mariner Elan and Dagger Meridian SKS (out of production, but available used) are examples of of such boats, but there are others that escape me at the moment. These would all be better choices as a day boat or "all rounder" for someone Mary's size than the Explorer LV. Her current situation is simply a mismatch, although it should perform well as a camping boat.

Is there a specific problem you're experiencing or is this something you read about? What is it that you're trying to correct? Simply having a high bow is not necessarily a problem, as many boats are designed that way, Nigel Foster's boats for example. The Explorer is designed as an expedition boat and the LV uses the same hull, so it's bound to ride high in the water with a paddler of your size and only day gear. The lower deck and smaller cockpit results in a better fit for smaller padders, but it doesn't reduce the buoyancy of the hull.

When it comes to changing trim by adding weight, yes it works, but 12# is a huge amount of weight to add to the end of a boat. My experience has been that adding as little as a pound or two at the extreme ends can dramatically affect handling. Putting 12# of weight in the extreme bow is almost guaranteed to cause the boat to weathercock severely. While you could perhaps correct this by using the skeg, it seems counterproductive to create a problem in order to correct a problem.

Pricewatch.com lists dealers with prices as low a $267 shipped.

They're available through CLC, VCP and presumably other sources, but I haven't found any online.

http://www.clcboats.com/images/products/seatbackband.gif

I don't recall the post you're referring to. Are you sure it was me?

As for lobster boats, I try to give them a pretty wide berth, but sometimes you can't avoid them. I've seen situations where the "captain" of the boat was so fixed on his depth finder that he wasn't watching where he was going, creating probems for kaykers in the vicinity. This could easily be mistaken for aggressive behavior. Were you actually harrassed by them physically or verbally? If that was the case, I'd report them to the Coast Guard and the local authorities. They may be out there working, but the water belongs to everyone. They do not have an exclusive right to be there. On the other hand, there's no point in getting involved in a conflict out on the water.

Defender's service is excellent, plus they're only down in CT, so shipping is always fast. You'll find that Icom is really fast with the rebate, too. IIRC, I got mine within ten days.

Many of us here remove the stock seats from our boats and replace the with custom seats made from Minicel foam. That allows us to to make a seat that suits our anatomy and padding requirements. I've got some pics of one method of making seats in my Webshots albums at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom

If you need any foam, I have it in thicknesses from 1/8" "skins" to 2" at VERY reasonable prices.

Since you understand the risk issues involved, I assume you also understand that we need to draw a very distinct line between NSPN/ACA activities and those that are organized by individuals outside the bounds of the club. As such, we have to be careful not to blur that line by posting information about such trips on the General Message Board, since that defeats the purpose of having a separate conference. I will bring it up to the rest of the Board of Directors, but as a member of the Board and the Risk/Liability Committee, my feeling at this point is that members should not post information about, or pointers to private trips on the General Message Board and any such posts should be removed.

It's a shame that we have to operate in this manner, but once people get used to the new conference, they'll know to check it for trips and everything will be fine. The description under the conference name should be enough to get the point across.

It doesn't help to refer to the Private Trips conference as "ugly". No, it's not the name we would have chosen given the option, but it's descriptive of what the trips are and once people get used to the name, it's irrelevant.

It's a bit disconcerting the first time you try it, as you feel like you're going to trip over your paddle at any second, but it's not bad once you get used to it. It works best with paddles with smooth back side of the blade, like a GP, a Kalliste or Nigel's own paddle design.

This is a technique that Greg Stamer teaches, It's very simple and very solid. When you know you're going over, twist so that your back hits the water first. This does two things:

- When your back hits the water it momentarily stops your momentum. You sort of "splat" on the surface and stay there for a second or two.

- It puts you in the perfect position for a sculling brace or balance brace. This allows you to relax and take your time getting back up.

This technique works surprisingly well in very rough water. It's not as strenuous on you or your paddle as doing a deep high brace/Q.A.S.

All you have to do is sweep the paddle across the hull, which is the first stroke in the sculling motion. A second sweep back toward the bow (back to your setup position) should be all that's necessary to pull you around.

...and switch to a Greenland paddle. There's no special setup required to scull with it, since it works in any orientation. It's also possible to scull with the backside of a Euro paddle blade, which eliminates any need to change the setup.

IIRC, we only had two failures in the flares we tested and one of those was due to the rusted pull chain on one snapping off.

Since you have your paddle in your hands, it's a pretty simple matter to scull your way around.

While I don't condone breaking the law, if you do decide to set off your flares, DO IT OVER WATER! Unlike most fireworks, flares can stay hot long enough that they can cause fires when their remnants hit the ground.

The radio link is in the thread called "Super deal on Icom M88 radios!" here on the General Message Board, but it's not an inexpensive radio, it's a GOOD one at a good price. Remember, you may have to depend on your radio for your safety at some point. IMO, radios are not a wise place to skimp on cost. However, there are other things like those Scott mentioned that should be higher on your priority list.

Flares are available at West Marine and other marine suppliers. Commercial fishing suppliers have them too. There should be several listings in the Yellow pages in your area.

I don't recall it, but I wouldn't be surprised, as your culinary skills are legendary, at least in my mind. Come to think of it, you should join the "Iron Kayak Chef" competition, too!

I'm thinking about making a sign for myself that reads:

"Will Fix Kayaks for Food"

;-)

>Hi Brian -

>

>>Glad to have you aboard, Mike.

>

> thank you for the reply!

>

>>NOAA's website (NOAA.gov) has marine weather info.

>>Maineharbors.com is another good site.

>

> I think I'm missing something - I scoured those sites and

>see weather and tide info, but nothing about rough vs. calm

>seas. Perhaps I just don't know the keyword to look for.

>What is that paramater (the "waviness") called officially?

"Sea state" and "wave height" are commonly used terms. You can get these from the NOAA marine forecast or buoy data. Typically, they're expressed similarly to "seas 2-3 feet" or "seas 3 feet every six seconds". The latter case gives you more information, as the closer the waves are together, the steeper they are. When the height and period numbers are close the same, watch out!

>>A handheld marine VHF radio is the best tool to have for

>>coastal paddling. It can put you in contact with the Coast

>>Guard with a touch of a button. They also have weather radio

>>capability with typically much better reception than

>>inexpensive weather radios. I posted today about a deal on

>>one of the better marine radios. Check it out.

>

> sounds great. I did a search on the Classifieds portion of

>this site but didn't find your ad.

It wasn't an ad. It's a few posts down on this page.

> Can you give me a URL? Is

>something like this

>

>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...ronics&n=507846

>

>"Midland NTVP1 Nautico 5 Watt 88 Channel VHF Marine Handheld

>Radio with NOAA Weather, Rechargeable Battery, Charger, AC

>Adaptor and Watertight Case" the kind of thing I'm looking

>for? Do I need a GPS also, to tell them where I am if I get

>in trouble or is it close enough to know where I am relative

>to the coast?

That's the general idea, but I'd be VERY leery of any marine VHF that cheap. I strongly recommend submersible radios, as you don't need to keep them in a bag (that makes the radio more difficult to use) and they won't die if they get wet. Figure that it will cost you a minimum of $120 for one.

>>>4) are there ocean currents out here to be aware of? That

>>>is, what are the odds of being dragged out too far? Does it

>>>matter if I'm going when the tide is incoming or outgoing?

>

>>It's not much of a problem unless you're trying to paddle

>>into a narrow harbor inlet or a river mouth against an

>>ebbing tide. There are some areas where current cause rough

>>water. Your best bet is to ask about specific areas so

>>someone with local knowledge can fill you in.

>

> ok. I plan to be in harbors in Swampscott, Marblehead, and

>Salem. Perhaps someone can clue me in; people keep telling

>me I'll be swept out to sea and I need to know if that's

>nonsense or can really happen (provided I don't go out in

>storms and stay reasonably close to the coast).

Well, I can't say that it's absolute nonsense because it is possible, but let's look at the facts. There are literally thousands of kayakers on the New England Coast every year and the number that get into serious trouble can typically be counted on one hand. Many of them have little or no more experience than you do. Given that, the odds are pretty slim that you'll get swept out to sea, especially since you have the good sense to at least ask about the risks and seek the right information. The single most important safety "tool" you can have on the water is good judgement and you've definitely started on the right track to developing it.

>>>5) and finally, what is the most appropriate next NSPN

>>>outing or class I should attend to gain basic experience

>>>with others in the waters around Swampscott/Marblehead?

>

>>You should plan on attending some of the skills sessions

>>that are going on all summer. You'll learn the basics there

>>and then some. Try some lower level (1-2) trips to get an

>>idea of what they're about.

>

> Great - thanks! What is the best way of finding a basic

>trip close to my location suitable for sit-on-top kayak

>skills on the local harbr? I see a bunch of lakes trips in

>the Upcoming Events calendar - is that it or should I be

>looking for an ocean one?

Scott posted some excellent advise on this and other topics, so I won't rehash it. Get involved and have fun!

You've got a "thing" for Mish (or is it "Mich"?)! Does the missus know? ;-)

Glad to have you aboard, Mike.

>1) is there any sort of website or other resource which I

>can check on a daily basis (before going out) to ascertain

>the condition of the water (rough seas vs. placid)?

NOAA's website (NOAA.gov) has marine weather info. Maineharbors.com is another good site. Perhaps others will chime in with additional sites. There are weather radio channels that you can tune into with the right equipment.

> Do conditions change rapidly (what are the odds of being out in

> calm water and getting overturned by sudden waves)?

It can happen, due to thunderstorms, boat wakes, rogue waves, bottom topography, etc. While I wouldn't worry excessively about it, you should be prepared with good bracing, rolling and self rescue skills. The ocean around here is nothing to trifle with, but since you're asking these questions, it appears you know that.

>2) is there any sort of radio/beacon/other device I should

>have with me in case of an emergency? Is there anything

>that's useful and practical?

A handheld marine VHF radio is the best tool to have for coastal paddling. It can put you in contact with the Coast Guard with a touch of a button. They also have weather radio capability with typically much better reception than inexpensive weather radios. I posted today about a deal on one of the better marine radios. Check it out.

>3) I've got a wetsuit which is sleeveless and stops right

>around my knee. I've got gloves and rubber booties. Is this

>enough for the waters around here or do I need something

>elsed? And should I be wearing anything in addition (under

>or over it) to avoid hyperthermia?

Perhaps a shorty Farmer John is OK in mid-late summer when the water is warmest and for use on lakes, but it's essentially useless most of the year. New England is dry suit country, as the water here is dangerously cold most of the year. I typically wear my dry suit 7-8 months of the year. IIRC, your kayak is a sit-on-top (aka "SOT"), right? That makes a difference, too, as it leaves you more exposed to the elements than in a sit-in kayak (aka "SINK").

>4) are there ocean currents out here to be aware of? That

>is, what are the odds of being dragged out too far? Does it

>matter if I'm going when the tide is incoming or outgoing?

It's not much of a problem unless you're trying to paddle into a narrow harbor inlet or a river mouth against an ebbing tide. There are some areas where current cause rough water. Your best bet is to ask about specific areas so someone with local knowledge can fill you in.

>5) and finally, what is the most appropriate next NSPN

>outing or class I should attend to gain basic experience

>with others in the waters around Swampscott/Marblehead?

You should plan on attending some of the skills sessions that are going on all summer. You'll learn the basics there and then some. Try some lower level (1-2) trips to get an idea of what they're about.