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whales? parlez vous francais?


Katherine

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Hello all,

Has anyone taken a trip to Canada to paddle the St Lawrence to see all of the whales and other wildlife?

Did you enjoy it? What would you do differently?

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Nyet. A couple used to live up there and maintain an NSPN membership, coming down now and then to paddle with us, I believe at least once for solstice. They were said to be great hosts and took some to "son-gwe-nay". I can't recall their name (nor the proper name of where they went). I believe Mike Crousse visited once. Maybe more will come back to me while I sleep. You might find their names in the archives, or another "old timer" might have more data in brain cells still alive. The trip was considered well worth it. Best of luck.

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I have -- about 10 years ago so things may or may have not changed. I am assuming that you want to paddle around the Sagany, but maybe not. If not, disregard what I write. I can't help you with any other location on the St. Lawrence--

At one point while paddling up the Sagany I had three adolescent beluga whales surround my kayak and start to play around me. Scary but captivating. I was told by locals that if it happens to you -- the lore is it does not happen often but if it does -- they whales bring luck -- who knows--

Anyways, here's some tips for paddling around the Sagany area:

1. It is a LONG ride to the area around the Sagany-- around 13 hours. So you may want to break up the trip going to and coming back--with camping along the way.

2. There are two ways you can go -- both are about the same amount of time -- one is up through Vermont to Canada -- the other way is through Maine and you take a ferry across to Canada.

3. You want to make sure you get the tide and winds right before you go up the Sagany -- otherwise, it puts a new meaning to slog--you need to be aware of both winds and tides because the winds kick up and the current is strong -- its difficult to be against one never mind both. Also, stay out of the channel -- lots of boat traffic and the tourist boats will run you over.

4. At the mouth of the Sagany it can be tricky -- it kicks up with boat traffic and weather -- so pick a day that the weather is in your favor. Also, launch as early as possible, winds pick up in the afternoon--

5. Once in the Sagany there are not many places to take out for a break -- so pace yourself -- a good trip plan is to paddle as far as the outfitter's shop on the Sagany-- have lunch and see where you are and how you feel. If you are looking for an outfitter, I would go with them.

6. The St. Lawrence is mighty wide with lots of marine life -- stay close to the shore when paddling as much as possible -- the big guy whales come right to the surface with little warning -- happened to me a couple of times and I had no problem --but still--

7. Whales smell so that is a clue where they are. Also look to the horizon and you can see them spouting in the distance.

8. The porpoise will surround your boat and travel with you.

9. You can camp at the national park in the area but good spots are taken quickly -- and there is no certainty you can launch from your site.

10. You can rent a condo from the First Nation (Canadian term for Native Americans). There is a condo association owned and operated by the First Nation.

11. The condos are very nice, clean, inexpensive and with some of the condos you can launch from your door. They are in a town that begins with a "T"- a long name. We went with these instead of camping for a couple of reasons. First, it supports the First Nation directly, the ease of launching and the campground's good sites were booked.

12. Go in August -- the winds tend to die down and weather may be better.

13. There is a restaurant near the condos that serves a good pie.

Hope this is helpful--

Les

Edited by Lbeale
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I do not know if they still do it, but SMSKN used to schedule a trip every year. The club is not much for trip reports and online discussion, but you could ask about area they have visited on their website. Here is a link to one trip report:

http://www.smskn.org/smskn-forum/8-trip-reports/88-st-lawrence-aug-12-16-2010

I've heard it is a great trip regardless of whether you see whales or not.

Ed Lawson

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Oui, This past summer. I would not take a guided multi day tour of the Saguenay section.

Next year we will do it on our own. Last year we signed on with a tour/outfitter guide company from that area as a special treat.

It did not go well. We left the tour at a loss of about $1800 out of pocket.

Edited by spider
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Dan and Francine live in Montreal, but I don't know if they're paddling much anymore. Very nice people, extremely friendly and good paddlers too.

We paddled the Saguenay years ago. we were on the upper fjord and you won't see any whales there, hell we only saw a few other boats. If you time your day wrong the currents/wind can be really bad and the bailout points are non existent, it is a Fjord after all. I remember eating lunch in shallow water sitting on the back deck of the kayak.

The mouth is where you'll see all the whales, there are ample hotels and a few campgrounds there.

How long do you have and do you plan on camping out of the kayaks or are you staying at campgrounds and/or B&B's?

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Thanks for all the info.

Les, very good thing to know especially about the pie :-). The condo sounds interesting.

Spider ~ what outfitter did you use? My initial thought was to do a one-day guided trip and then explore on our own the rest of the days with maybe some hiking and pie eating thrown in for good measure.

Ed, yes, I thought SMSKN did a trip, I looked on their calendar, it was empty, I will probably reach out to them.

Michael, have not determined length of stay but with the drive (my map says 9hours 26 minutes, not including breaks) ... I don't know maybe three full days there??

And... I don't think I can make it happen this summer but it will happen the summer of 2015 (wow, that's scary), I think it'll make a great 55th birthday celebration, which is in August, see Les's #12. See, Warren isn't NSPN's only long-term planner. :-)

All of the info is very helpful ~ thanks so much!

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Please read my trip report, starting here: http://www.cathyhartland.com/mingan/mingan_bergeronnes.htm

Paradis Marin is absolutely the best place to stay (camp) to see and kayak with whales, and the word is out about this place, so do make reservations early. You won't get in otherwise. I was lucky, going there slightly off-season. I did a day trip to the Saguenay and kayaked with belugas. You sure don't need an outfitter to do either of these locations. And you will almost certainly see whales. It's an astonishing experience.

It took me 2 easy days to drive there, staying overnight at Sherbrooke, as detailed in the trip report http://www.cathyhartland.com/mingan/mingan_getthere.htm

Hope the info in the report will convince you to go!

Kate

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I'll leave the name of the outfitter unnamed here (though I can be contacted privately if you wish more info).

The gist of the issue... the tides in the Saguenay River run 20'. We always center our paddling in relation to the tide..whereas the outfitter completely ignored them.. Watching a 20' tide disappear before launching at dead low tide was a"deal killer" for us.

Next time (probably this year) we will do it much more as Kate and others have done....more smiles that way I am sure !

Edited by spider
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Thanks, Spider ~ that's plenty enough detail, I'll look forward to hearing about your trip.

Kate, thanks so much the link, great rip report.

The trip is a definite!

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I have gone a couple times now to meet SMSKN folks at Paradis Marin. I have used different routes and ferries. I can share info via email. There are little "good to know" tidbits of info. My daughter and I would like to make it an annual trip, though stuff happens and it has not been as frequent as hoped. I believe I will go up at least once this year.

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  • 2 years later...

I second (third?) the recommendation of Paradis Marin, if you want to camp.  The name means marine paradise, and that's a pretty good description.  It's right on the St. Lawrence just a few miles north of Saguenay; you can sit on the rocks and watch the whales go by, or go out and paddle with them.  I went with a SMSKN trip many years ago; they went July 4th weekend, which turned out to be a bit early for whales (though we saw lots of belugas).  Air temp was very hot but water temp called for a drysuit! That weekend coincided with Canada Day (their national holiday, July 1), so the big campground was chock full of Quebecers enjoying their outdoors — good for people-watching, probably quieter other weekends.

Anyway, my two cents.

Judy

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