Trying to Beat the Heat on Casco Bay, July 6-7, 2013

[prudenceb]

Trying to Beat the Heat On Casco Bay, July 6-7, 2013

Long story short: we mostly succeeded in doing so.

It had been such a wretched week in the weather department - as any NSPN member who doesn't live in Alaska or on Mars knows - that I felt positively ebullient getting into my car and pointing it north early on Saturday morning. Warren had proposed a rather last-minute trip, and he, Dave and I met up at South Winslow Park - where we happily discovered that our "maturity" meant that we could park for free - for a 9:30 launch out into the mid Casco Bay region.

Our initial plan had been to camp on Whaleboat, a Maine Coastal Heritage Trust island that has become one of my favorites. Its great beauty is its large and treeless central meadow. But the heat had us reconsidering. Would a couple of tarps provide enough shade so that we wouldn't fry? We considered other options and decided we'd just get out there and then figure out where to pitch our tents for the night, hoping that there would be room somewhere given that it was the midst of the long Fourth of July weekend.

We worked up a sweat just loading up the boats, but discovered that the instant we were on the water, we felt very comfortable. After the long spring season of paddling in a drysuit or wetsuit, it felt nice to be in short sleeves and shorts. The weather forecast was for basically…no weather…other than heat and humidity. The air would be still, the sea flat. But our forward motion created a breeze, and sitting on a vast 60 degree surface made all the difference.

It was easy and quiet paddling. The water looked almost viscous in the way that a quiet ocean interrupted only occasionally by swells of a passing boat wake can. On the surface we could see the sky and clouds reflected in shifting lava lamp blobs, and looking over at the paddler next to us, an upside down image similarly distorted.

Here it was the Fourth of July weekend and there actually wasn't much boat traffic. Still, we stayed close together in a line as we crossed island to island. Launch to Moshier. Moshier to French. French to Little Whaleboat. Although the whole bay spread out, all the islands visible, we practiced navigation, consistent with our plan to make this a weekend of working on skills. John Carmody's lessons had finally stuck for all of us, and there was nary a Navi-Aid in sight. Compasses and charts only. Using our collective brain, we also worked on back bearings and at least talked through triangulation as a way to ascertain where we were.

I was a little apprehensive approaching Little Whaleboat because when we were last there three weeks ago on the New to Kayak Camping trip, Warren and I had concluded that we had entered the Twilight Zone because the area that we remembered was…completely gone! Since there was no wind, I was able to keep the chart on my spray skirt, and as we got closer to Little Whaleboat, and could see the tops of brightly colored umbrellas over a small rise, and a wisp of smoking going straight up into the sky, I looked down at the chart again, and saw…three islands that comprise Little Whaleboat and not two - as we had believed when we were last there. A feeling of relief washed over me - and I think Warren, too - as the realization dawned that we had not been in the Twilight Zone after all. While we recalled that that there had been a passage between two small islands with an even smaller islet in the middle of that passage, and an artful installation of ocean detritus in a grove of small trees on the left hand side, when we returned last month there was no grove of scrubby trees, no art installation, no islet - indeed the pretty area to which we had vowed to return after we first saw it was completely gone!

But of course it wasn't. We had not been in the Twilight Zone at all. We had been in the Zone of Not Looking Carefully at Our Charts! We had been between two other islets, and hadn't noticed the smaller one to the west. It was between the middle and westernmost area that we had found the most wonderful spot before, and approaching from the west this time, instead of the north, we happened upon it first. It was just as we remembered it - the same pretty picture! Warren celebrated our emergence from the Twilight Zone by successfully rolling his fully loaded boat three times in a row - and I have the video to prove it!

We then headed toward the umbrellas, under which were members of a family sitting in a row on a north-facing beach on the middle of the Little Whaleboat islands - five adults and two children and a liver-colored lab that barked fiercely at our approach. I did not feel any more reassured about landing when the dog leapt into the water and began swimming toward me, looking not the least bit welcoming. But one of the men waded in and persuaded him out of the water. Warren, noting the barbeque that was the source of the smoke we had seen, asked if they did takeout. And so we landed to stretch our legs for a few minutes. It was a real Fourth of July tableau - even though it was by now the Sixth. A family, a dog, coolers, umbrellas, a big motor-boat moored just offshore, and a barbeque of - among other things - sausages home-made by one of the men. (Five pounds of finely ground pork, he said, plus some number of tablespoons - or was it teaspoons? - of sea salt, some number of tea/tablespoons of hot pepper flakes, some number of tea/tablespoons of fennel - grind it up into a sausage casing and you have the makings of a fine picnic!)

From Little Whaleboat we crossed over to Whaleboat, heading up its eastern shore then turning the corner to head south toward the meadowy area. We hugged the coast, almost up against the rocks. We saw the heads of a small flock of Canada geese poking over the top of some bright green grass. Other than the geese, many cormorants - including a colony sitting cheek by jowl on their grass and stick nests on a rocky island, and an impressive number of osprey, we saw little wildlife over that day and next. Indeed, we saw no wingless wildlife at all.

As we approached the landing area, we saw that three kayaks were already there, and that they had set up camp for the night in the field. Two grown sons and their father, the latter celebrating his birthday. We spoke briefly with them as they pushed off to go to Dolphin Marina across the way for lunch, then we walked up - in the heat! oh my! - to where we had camped before. Island as oven. Unbearably hot. We abandoned plans to lunch in the field, and returned to the beach where it was marginally cooler, and ate. I had never seen Dolphin Marina, so we decided to paddle over to Harpswell Neck to check it out. By now, the Day of No Weather had decided to give us some overcast, which was a relief.

We landed below the restaurant at Dolphin Marina. Dave said that someone had told him about a nice little takeout place next door. We threaded through some yachts up on cradles in a boat yard and saw a tiny white shack with umbrella covered picnic tables in front. Warren started salivating at the prospect of ice cream, and when he saw that there was homemade wild Maine blueberry ice cream, the deal was sealed! Dave had to return to his boat to get money for all of us. Lesson #1 of the trip: always bring your wallet!

The homemade wild Maine blueberry ice cream was, in a word - or two - simply fabulous. Intensely flavored and chock full of tiny Maine blueberries. We also noted the enticing odors of fried seafood coming our way, and were impressed at the reasonable prices. Had we known, we would have foregone lunch and eaten there! If you're in the neighborhood, Erica's Seafood is a really sweet spot!

And off we went again in search of a campsite. As we crossed back over to Whaleboat, the Day of No Weather was clearly morphing to the south. Ominous looking low black clouds filled the sky down toward Portland, and we could see that dark rain was falling from some of them.

Warren and Dave had checked their handy weather apps to ascertain that there was no lightning in the area, but Warren predicted that we would get wet before we hit camp. We rounded the southern end of Whaleboat, and within no time at all, the ominous black clouds were gone; they'd stayed over on the other side we guessed, maybe to rain on Erica's…

We kept an eye out for other campsite we were aware of - on the eastern side - and when we got to it, appreciatively noted the nice landing beach. From an earlier visit, I remembered the site as being rather damp underfoot with a lot of blowdown trees. It was much nicer than that, and for a moment, we all considered whether we should camp there. The several minutes we spent looking for good tent sites was sufficient time for this still-damp island's mosquito population to find us. The combination of the little critters, plus the wet ground drove us off - but not before we noted that Ed Lawson had been there earlier in the season. Ed, is it always wet there??

And so after paddling a bit more we ended up on a sweet little island with a nice beach that seemed perfect. We landed and set up camp. It was hot and still. The beach and water beckoned. We all went for a swim, enjoying floating on the four inch layer of warmish water atop the colder water below. But here is nothing like cold salt water to serve as an astringent medication to ease the itch of a mosquito bite! Or two. Or three…

And then cocktails and dinner on the beach. Warren was in full prep mode for his upcoming San Juan Islands trip, and had several Trader Joe's items to test out for possible meals. To that end, he had brought his stove and a pan to boil the packets of Indian food. He pronounced them delicious. Dave also prepared hot food. I was happy to settle for cold food in that heat.

We were in bed by 8. The next morning, Warren reported that with his earplugs and instant ability to fall asleep, he had heard none of the booming fireworks that kept Dave and me awake til all hours. I lay in my hot tent on top of my sleeping bag and wondered how I would ever manage to sleep. A small wind picked up, the trees rustled and I could hear waves slapping against the shore. This lasted only for a while, then it was still - the quiet punctuated only by the ongoing revelry for the Fourth.

On Sunday, Warren arose at his usual 4:30, and later reported that he had seen the most spectacular sunrise of his life - the sky was as red as the (bright red) shirt Dave was wearing, deepening as time went on.

We were all up early. A lone fisherman standing up in his boat offshore the only non-avian life out on the water.

We were back on the water before 7:30, enjoying the flat calm and the (relative) coolness of the morning, although clearly another hot day was in store. There was some overcast, and that helped as well.

Eastward to the south end of French Island and up the western shore, with a pause for more loaded-boat rolls for Warren and Dave, then passing by Little French and over to Bustins, where we wanted to look once again at the pretty octagonal house that is so distinctive in every way that it is actually noted on the chart: "house." And what a house! Cream colored with red trim and railings on its 360" porch, and every window open to catch the all-sides breezes. We went counterclockwise around Bustins, glanced over at the passage into Freeport Harbor and noted that there was essentially no boat traffic on a beautiful calm Sunday morning at 9 am. Everyone at brunch or in church? A quick hop over to Crab Island, and then the final small crossing back to South Winslow.

Where when we landed it was just about instantly obvious that what had (mostly) kept us cool was being surrounded by water.

Hearing about the Fourth of July traffic backed up from Biddeford through New Hampshire and into Massachusetts later in the day, I was glad to have gotten off the water and on the road early.

Lessons learned: 1) Don't forget to bring your wallet; you never know when ice cream may beckon. 2) If you think you're in the Twilight Zone, take a good look at yer damn chart before you conclude that are; chances are that you aren't. 3) If you are going to paddle in July in the middle of a heat wave, even in Maine, be prepared to end up being a sticky 11 layer cake of sun block, sweat, more sun block, salt water, yet more sun block and lots more sweat, salt water, sun block, bug spray, a last dose of sun block, and a final rinse with salt water. There is nothing like the happy combination of all these ingredients to help make yet another completely wonderful trip.

pru

[EEL]

Pru:

"Ed, is it always wet there??"

It seems a natural drainage and expect it is often wet. I assume you are talking about the area where the fire ring, sign and log book are located. I camped about 30 meters or so south of that location where it was dry and few winged critters.

Neat to see folks rolling loaded boats on trips and getting back to basics for navigation.

There is (or was) a great little lobster shack associated with the fishermen's dock on Lookout Point a few miles to the north you might want to try. Makes for a good stopping point if you are doing a loop of the islands north of Whaleboat as there is a public landing area. Name is Allen's and definitely worth the visit.

BTW, would you email me at elawson@grizzy.com as I have lost your email address and have a question or two.

Ed Lawson

Who has been away from ocean and Maine for too long

[rick stoehrer]

i had a group out saturday as well...newbies. we launched from an undisclosed southern casco bay location and went up to ft gorges and little chebeague on saturday. it was very much like paddling in a furnace.

had a kelty wing tarp and it was a blessed piece of kit to have on the beach when we landed. they all abut passed out under it. they thought keeping the water in a mesh bag and in the ocean was a nifty trick...explained we had a refrigerator so long as we didn't need anything colder than about 64 degrees or so. fireworks from the locals next to us went on for awhile that night...they had kids with them and didn't get overly rowdy. the sunrise was indeed, spectacular. the paddle back was thankfully under that same cloud cover you enjoyed and we got only a few drops for about 5 minutes or so on the last crossing to the take out.

only did about 6 miles each day and it was more than enough for them and their first taste of camping out of kayaks. most folks think 6 miles isn't very much but if it's all new to you...sure seems like it's plenty.

introduced them all to the joy of camp pizza and a delicious spam sammie breakfast.

glad you had a nice time...ice cream woulda been good.

[...]

Pru,

As always, another great trip report! I did make an attempt at posting a photo of the outstanding sunrise on Sunday morning.

It is amazing how enjoyable our adventures have become. I know it is primarily due to how the three of us are like-minded paddlers who obtain great joy from our kayak camping. It seems I no sooner get back home and all I can think about is when and where do we go on our next adventure. Actually, I do know! This coming Saturday we will paddle on Muscongus Bay for another great adventure!

Warren

Edited July 9, 2013 by Warren

[Doug]

Pru, once again I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report. I'm left feeling I was along for the ride. Thanks for that. Good therapy in the middle of my work week. I envy your ability to simply pick up and go camping every other weekend.

Doug

[prudenceb]

I envy your ability to simply pick up and go camping every other weekend.

Doug

I feel very fortunate indeed to be able to do so!

pru

[kate]

Enjoyable read, as always, Pru, with the added pleasure of the intercalated photos. I too was kayaking on Casco Bay on Saturday, inspired by your trip reports to check out the mid-section of the bay. My resulting trip report, apparently non-PC due to inclusion of the names of MITA islands (I simply took names from the chart, not knowing which are MITA and which are not), was disappeared from this site. Either that or I never actually hit the "submit" button - never been very good at submitting. Ah well, I posted the report on a less-scrupulous site here: http://www.wtpaddlers.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3228

I did see kayakers here and there, and was always sure they were you and Warren, even if there was only one kayaker. Somehow I assumed the second was back at camp awaiting the other's return. Reading your report, I realize that it was never the two of you, but even so I cling to my delusions. It was nice to see you!

p.s. Warren, I'd enjoy hearing what TJ cuisine you demo'd, for my own future edification.

[prudenceb]

My resulting trip report was disappeared from this site. Either that or I never actually hit the "submit" button - never been very good at submitting.

Thanks for your nice words, Kate -- we didn't see any solo paddlers off in the distance, so we didn't see you!

As for your disappeared report... I have found that this site can be temperamental. I generally write trip reports as a word document, then copy and paste it onto this site. I learned my lesson after mid-way through some reports, they...disappeared... That way I don't lose it.

...I just read your report on the link. You were clearly farther south than we were. I enjoyed the part about the Cousins Island launch. Many times during our two days I repeated how happy I was that we hadn't launched from Cousins. The thought of hauling boat and gear up that hill...in the heat... Ugh! It had almost killed me three weeks before when although it was not as hot, it was still toasty, and we were wearing dry suits! Save Cousins launches for the shoulder seasons, or for when you have brought along your bevvy of porters and other servants...

pru

[...]

Kate,

Regarding the Trader Joe's food, I like their Indian Fare - Punjab Choley (very spicy), as well as the Indian Fare - Jaipur Vegetables. Both heat up in a pot of boiling salt water in less than 5 minutes. I also had a couple pieces of Joseph's Flatbread, garlic and herb. I also like their box soups, Chicken Noodle Soup and their Beef Barley Soup both with Veggies. I heat up the soup in the morning and fill my thermos to take on the water for lunch. I will add all these to my San Juan trip menu.

I enjoyed reading your trip report regarding your paddle on Casco Bay. Although I have completed 8 camping trips on Casco Bay, I keep discovering new places to see. I have not yet paddled in some of the sections you described, so I look forward to further explorations in that section. Some day you need to consider paddling in the east end of Casco Bay. Rob Folster and I were paddling in that section at the beginning of April and it had a magical feel.

I do hope Pru and I will have an opportunity to paddle with you soon. My Explorer (Charlie) would enjoy paddling with Dora.

Warren

[EEL]

There are all kinds of interesting packages at the average supermarket that makes camping easy. I can find everything for a five day trip at any Hanniford's in 20 nminutes. Well, maybe I have just become mired in a rut, but it is is comforting to know if I can find a Hanniford's I can provision myself for a trip or resupply. Actually that is now true of almost any decent store a kayaker might run across such as the Port Clyde General Store of the supermarket in Stoningtonm.

I have used the packages that you just need to boil in the pouch. No fresh water needed for cooking which is great. Too much for one person, but one of my favorites is the Uncle Ben's rice packages which come in many flavors and just need to be heated with a few tablespoons of water. Add some veggies, spices and some cheese or meat and a nice meal in minutes. Based on trip reports some are much more into eating well on trips, but for me its just fuel. I like fast and simple. To each his/her own.

When it comes to the potentially spicy packages, I have found it prudent to test at home first.

Ed Lawson

[...]

Ed,

I followed your lead and went to the supermarket last night. The Uncle Ben's rice section was full of great options. You are correct, the prep effort is minimal. This weekend I will be testing several choices while paddling on Muscongus Bay. Thank you!

Warren

Edited July 12, 2013 by Warren