Skeg Repair

[Dave M.]

I have a kinked skeg cable on a NDK Pilgrim Expedition. Is there anyone in the Portsmouth NH vicinity that repairs skegs and or sells the cables? Replacement doesn't look that difficult but still not sure I want to attempt on my own

Dave

[northerngirl]

You may have to go to Maine Island Kayak, in Portland on Peaks for the work. Let us know how u make out

[northerngirl]

do you know how it happened? Just curious as i have the PX also

[Dave M.]

I don't know how. There were 5 of us paddling last week in Muscongus Bay and 3 out of 5 had skeg problems. I had a rock jammed skeg and had another paddler pull it down. My guess is that when I landed the skeg was forced back into the box and that's when the cable was bent

[Pintail]

<...5 of us paddling last week in Muscongus Bay and 3 out of 5 had skeg problems...>

Doesn't this just prove, then, that skegs are more trouble than they are worth, David? If you are a keen camper, then cutting out the skegbox will certainly give you more useful load volume! ;^)

[EEL]

Dave:

Perhaps the cable system on the newer NDK boats is more complicated than the traditional cable system used on many boats, but it should be a simple task to replace the cable or to mess with the kink till it works OK which the approach I would take first. If for no other reason than it would give you confidence if a field repair were needed someday. I suspect hardest part is getting cable cut properly as in cleanly without mashing/deforming the cable if you cannot find a pre-made part. Seriously, just play around with it. After all boats are supposed to be messed with. That many skeg failures is a bit disconcerting and could have made for long days in the right (or is it wrong) circumstances.

Ed Lawson

[leong]

<...5 of us paddling last week in Muscongus Bay and 3 out of 5 had skeg problems...>

Doesn't this just prove, then, that skegs are more trouble than they are worth, David? If you are a keen camper, then cutting out the skegbox will certainly give you more useful load volume! ;^)

As documented here and in many other NSPN posts, skeg cables are susceptible to kinking and jamming and the skegs often get jammed with sand or pebbles. Let’s start an argument. What about rudders?

Now that I only use ruddered boats, I haven’t had any such malfunction problems. In addition to compensating for the force of the wind like a skeg does (passive steering), I use my rudder for active steering too. That is, when padding forward I use my rudder for small steering corrections so there’s no need to use my paddle for corrective steering strokes (they say you shouldn’t use a rudder for steering but “they” might not know what they’re talking about). The added efficiency of using a rudder for small steering corrections more than compensates for the slight drag of a rudder. Of course, I’m assuming a modern rudder system that doesn’t require sliding foot braces to control the rudder (think Epic, SmartTrack, Onno).

Yeah, yeah, I know that rudders may get in the way during rescues, they’re ugly and a paddler should have the skills to not be dependent on the rudder. Nevertheless, in addition to the extra efficiency, it’s sure nice to have a rudder when things get ugly.

Pintail, you’re gonna hate me!

Let the fighting begin.

[northerngirl]

I can't remember what type of skeg system that i have in my PX, but i remember that there was 2 different types. I wonder if it is a problem with just one of those or it is happening to both. I would be curious to know. So far i have not had a skeg issue at all, i got my boat last September. I try not to paddle with any skeg if i can help it, that boat is quite responsive. I was in a P+H Scorpio before and had to always use some skeg, it is nice to paddle a boat w/out having to now, I get worried that i will forget to put it up if i put it down now that i have been for going it. The cables are a lot more complicated than they use to be on the NDK's

[Dave M.]

Thank you everyone for your comments. I stopped at West Marine today and bought a length of cable. Pulled out the old one, measured the correct length and cut off the excess. I had an easier time cutting the cable than the guys at WM. Ed you are right that the trickiest task is to cut without fraying it. I used a tip from a Wilderness System video and ground down the ends which certainly facilitated insertion. I was off by about 1/4 inch and trimmed it after insertion at the skeg end. A couple of fine adjusments and I was up and running again.

It really was easy. BTW, the 8 feet of cable cost me $9.

Another skill added to my kayaker belt.

[northerngirl]

That is great that you were able to fix so easily, too bad you didn't get it on video for the rest of us. )

Paddle on!

[scamlin]

David:

Might be interesting for the crowd reading this thread to know what type of cable you got at West Marine. Were there differnet grades or diameters?

Last time I replaced a cable on a Valley Avocet, I got lots of opinions and some good advice on the different grades of cable, specifically stiffness. Seems all cable is not created equal and there are stiff grades that are less prone to kinking. Kayak skeg cables are vulnerable since there are areas where they may be in the open (in the skeg box and at the knob on the deck), not in a tube which normally prevents kinking when the cable is pushed (rather than pulled). Of course, it might make no difference if you don't land with your rudder down.

It was so long ago I don't remember the specifics, but am sure someone can weigh in here.

As for cutting, I seem to remember buying a special pair of cable clippers, with opposing right angle notches. Not the heavy duty telco ones, more like diagonal cutters. The idea is it minimizes the mashing of the cable end.

Another thing I learned was to by two so I'd have a spare next time someone kinked my cable.

Scott

[Brian Nystrom]

Scott, what you need is 1x19 cable as opposed to 7x19 cable, which is much more flexible. As for the diameter, the stock cable may be a metric size and the choices at West Marine may not match exactly. If that's the case, choose the slightly smaller diameter cable (3/32"?). It won't be as stiff at the larger size, but it creates less friction and is much less likely to bind in the housing and cause problems. That makes it less prone to kinking if the skeg gets whacked while it's down.

If you don't have cable cutters, a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool works well. You can also use the Dremel to taper the ends of the cable, which make it easier to install.