Great Wass Archipelago: August 3-5

[PeterB]

On Friday , six intrepid (and punctual) souls converged on the southern tip of the Addison peninsula, (Downeast, between Mt. Desert Island and Machias) ready for a three day exploration of the area around the Great Wass Archipelago.

We set off just as fog was lifting. It was very hot and humid, and we looked forward to such relief as the open water would provide. We crossed Tibbett Narrows and, with another crossing, arrived at our temporary island home. Our preferred campsite on the island’s eastern end was occupied by a snoozing paddler, so we rounded to the northern shore , found a place to land, luckily with a gravelly channel that wound through the seaweed.

For the rest of the weekend, we were destined to be launching and landing close to low tide (the price to pay to ride the tides the next day, but we'll get to that in a minute) ; Fortunately, our happy crew naturally worked well together, ferrying boats and gear across a seemingly endless expanse of ledges, boulders, gravel and seaweed to our campsite. We had made a rule at the put-in; loaded boats to be carried by four people, and I think it was a wise one.

We pitched our tents in a row looking out towards Moosebec Reach and, beyond, the lights of Jonesport, and we settled in for appetizers, wine, and a dinner of veggie chili and cornbread laced with pineapple juice (!!) We soon beheld an unusual sunset; the sun was obscured by fog but its refection on the water glowed red orange, like molten lava. Not long after, the full moon rose through the trees.

On Saturday morning we set off at 8:30 to tour Great Wass, and were soon in the tidal stream for a fast ride through Moosebec Reach, past Jonesport. We slid into Pig Gut and thence to Eastern Bay, dotted with islands and ledges, sandwiched between between Great Wass Island and Steele & Head Harbor Islands. Our destination was Head Harbor and the Cows Yard, to the southeast, but we made a detour to the west side of Eastern Bay to visit Mud Hole, a long narrow cove which almost bisects Great Wass island. Curiosity fullfilled, we made a quick stop , then crossed Eastern Bay and into Head Harbor

and stopped for lunch on a sun-baked island on the edge of the Cows Yard, an enchanted place if there ever was one.

We agreed to head out of Head Harbor into the ocean, and, after passing along the cliffs of Steele Harbor Island,

we entered the otherworldly landscape around Mistake island, presided over by Moose Peak Lighthouse,

with grand smooth faces of bleached granite, capped with lime green heather, and green black evergreens.

We slithered through a long notch between Mistake and Knight islands,

made a quick stop on a dome-like island, and began our journey back, and, once again riding the Moosebec Express, sailing now on the ebb tide, back to our island home.

We’d done 21 miles, and, after ferrying the boats again, we settled in for more appetizers, Bota Boxes , and a mess of vegetable , potato and quinoa masala for dinner. After dinner, various goodies magically appeared; banana bread, cookies, key lime pie.

On Sunday morning we woke to dense fog , and, after one last epic boat carry, launched around 9:30 for our journey back to civilization.

and elected to putter about in the fog, so we made our way partway up the chain of the Drisko islands.

My imagination get can get the better of me, but this gloomy fogbound island seascape seemed Arthurian to me: it would seem fitting for an arm to emerge from the waters, Excalabur in hand.

Our red and green buoys guarding Tibbet Narrows emerged from the fog after our last crossing, welcoming us back to our launch site. We were spared one last long boat carry, as this was near mid-tide, and , once again, with the teamwork for which this group was so distinguished , saddled up our boats and were on our way.

I enjoyed this weekend, and especially with this group of game paddlers. We had a 21 mile paddle through my favorite area of the entire Maine coast , did some nav. work amongst the islands in the dense fog , and were.... not underfed. Let's go back.

[Katherine]

Wonderful report, Peter. Wonderful trip, all.

I agree, let's go back!

[jwhipple]

Thanks for the evocative trip report and photos, complete with Excalibur! Our weekend home, on Stevens Island, proved to be a great staging point for Great Wass, and we were indeed (classic Peter-ism) very "not underfed". I think the greatest beneficiaries of trip reports are those who participated, as it allows us to relive the weekend ... sigh.

[...]

Peter,

Thank you for a wonderful trip report and an amazing adventure. And thank you to Judy, Katherine, Glenn and Robert for beng a most enjoyable group. Seems to me the environment provides 30% of the fun and the paddling group provides 70%. Boy, did we have a great time with hopefully many more trips in our future.

Warren

[prudenceb]

Wonderful report and pictures, Peter, and as you well know, I REALLY wanted to be on this trip as well. Next year?

I am very impressed that you got a photo of the legendary figure from the past standing in his impressive boat. Only a very skilled observer, paddler, and photographer could have captured such an image!

pru

[glenster]

Great report Peter. I'm back.at work but not really, still in Great Wads. Thanks to our band of brothers and sisters it truely was a great adventure and hope to have many more.

[gyork]

......once again riding the Moosebec Express,

Peter, others: What is the max current, flow and ebb, for Moosebec Reach? Important to consider when touring here?

Wondering why you chose NOT to CW Great Wass on your return trip-looks like about the same distance to get back to Home Base?

[...]

Gary,

There are two current prediction stations in the Jonesport area. One at each end of Moosebec Reach. The max current typically runs between 1.0 to 1.2 knots. It was just enough to give us a nice ride.

Yes, we did consider continuing around Great Wass, but we also wanted to see a MITA island in the Mud Hole Channel vacinity. It was worth the stop since the views were spectacular. We also very much enjoyed the ride thru Moosebec Reach and I for one looked forward to the return ride which did not disappoint.

There is so much to see in that area, I like that I still have more to see and will be eager to return.

Warren

[EEL]

What is the max current, flow and ebb, for Moosebec Reach? Important to consider when touring here?

Gary:

Keep in mind current stations are located on basis of need by commercial vessels which is likely why the only ones in area are at ends of Moosebec Reach. Not always a good idea to rely upon current predictions for even that area to estimate what current you are likley to find when paddling. Also, with the tide range in downeast area there are some healthy currents in many places for which there are no predictions although might be noted in the Coastal Pilot if significant.

It is an area where it is best to arrange for "downhill paddling" as much as possible.

Ed Lawson