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To tether or not to tether


leong

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When I started using my kayak for fishing almost 20 years ago (prior to my use of a paddle leash) I once lost a paddle while retrieving a fish. (Luckily, I was able to retrieve it by hand-paddling … it wasn’t too windy and there was very little current).

Surely, a paddle leash would have prevented this situation. But there is danger. Clearly, a paddle leash should not be used in whitewater kayaking or surfing due to the significant probability of getting strangled. It’s not only intuitively obvious, but there are documented situations of entanglement, sometimes leading to death. However, I don’t think it’s that clear a choice for sea kayaking.

I realized that a paddle leash while sea kayaking has the potential for two kinds of dangerous situations. 1. entanglement and 2. not being able to get away from a paddle when you must (e.g. a paddle stuck in a rock while you’re surfing through). I believe that a paddle leash tightly connected to your deck leads to both problems. However, I think that a paddle leash weakly connected on one end to your wrist (or sprayskirt) and also weakly connected at the other end to your paddle minimizes the chances that either of the of the dangerous situations would occur.

Accordingly, I leash my paddle to a carabiner attached to my sprayskirt. The carbiner is attached to the sprayskirt with 4 or 5 pound fishing line that is easy to break with one hand and the other end also to fishing line attached to the paddle. I remove the leash for racing or surfing. I never attach the leash to the deck, because, clearly, it increases the probability that the paddle leash can wrap around your neck if you roll over and get into trouble.

I think the added danger of entanglement with my paddle leash is very small. I’ve had dozens of combat wet exits and rolls and never had any entanglement problem. But once, when going under a narrow bridge my boat hit something and I went over and wet exited. My paddle hung up in the debris and I was attached to the paddle by the sprayskirt (this time). I just pulled hard and the connection to the paddle broke and I swam to safety.

I agree with Bob and Gene that a short leash weakly attached to the wrist adds very little danger.

On the other hand, perhaps I’ve been lucky. This could be self-delusion and my use of a paddle leash is an accident waiting to happen.

I wonder if there is any hard evidence to support the opinion that it is dangerous to use a paddle leash attached to the wrist or sprayskirt while sea kayaking (especially with weak connections). If there is then I’ll stop using my paddle leash and rely on just a spare paddle.

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I use a particular style that is made up of a coiled, phone cord type leash which unclips at the paddle shaft. I clip the other end to my deck bungies and put the "slack" under the bungies so it isn't mobile and just have the quick connect piece accessible. I don't use the leash to paddle, only as a retaining device when wanting to use my hands for photos or when having done a wet exit and wanting to have my hands free to get back in rather than having to slide the paddle blade under the bungies and have the paddle in the way. With the majority of the leash under the bungies I don't have cord to get tangled in (or annoyed by) but I can pull out what I need for the task then tuck it back in later. As stated I use it as a temporary holder rather than a full-time leash. I suppose if it were used full-time there's still the danger of entaglement but since it is elastic under no stress it is shorter than a typical line (under 3' relaxed) and the coils help it stay stuck in place under the bungies and has no tendency to work loose. Also you would only need to have the length out you needed for range of motion rather than the full length supplied. It has a Kevlar core so I don't know how easily it could be cut in an emergency. I'm sure shears would have no problem but a knife might not be as quick. It has served me well based on my usage preferences and if having a temporary paddle holder is all you want it might work for you too. An additional plus is that if you buy one for each paddle, you really only need to have one leash part in your kit and each paddle retains it's own small connector part so when switching paddles you don't have to do anything extra. http://www.seattlesportsco.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=147&idcategory=0

Jeff

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This thread reminds me of the debates among climbers about ice ax leashes. Seems that if the issue is temporary parking of the paddle, then an appropriate carabiner on a short contact tow does the job. At least for EPs, GP users are out of luck. OTOH parking a GP on the deck can be relatively easy.

Ed Lawson

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I'm not a fan of leashes and never use them, but if one really feels the need for a paddle leash, a bungee-type wrist leash is probably the safest and most effective, provided that it's the type that can be slipped off the wrist easily. IMO, the paddle should stay with the paddler, not the boat, so it can be used as a swimming and signaling aid if necessary. If Jeff likes his coil leash, more power to him, but I think they're about the worst idea on the market, as they tangle in everything and they bang annoyingly on the deck if you use them while paddling.

There is also a difference between using a leash while paddling and using one simply to "park" the paddle temporarily while engaged in other activities like photography. In the latter case, as long as conditions are benign, a leash will be too. That said, I think it's far preferable to set up the boat with deck rigging that allows one to quickly stow a paddle, since that will also be useful in rescue situations where you don't have time to screw around with attaching a leash to your paddle.

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I leash on open water and thats about it....but my leash attaches to my pfd...that way the paddle stays with me where ever i go.....

I use the older NDK leashes that have the quick release 1/2" cam buckle to got o my lashtab....plus there is a knife present too....

-r

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I no longer use a paddle leash but did for awhile. Lots of issues with a leash and I finally decided that the cons outweighed the pros.

- bungee style leashes - are very dangerous. Just think that happens if they break - the coiled part snaps back with force. During a training on Skye with Gordon Brown, he told a story where he was hit in the head by his coiled paddle leash, not once but twice during a rescue. I guess one paddle blade was stuck and the coiled leash pulled the other end around to hit him in the head. Before he realized what was happening, he was hit twice.

- if one must leash, then make sure that there are quick releases available on both the paddle end and whatever you affix it to - boat, wrist, pfd.

- leash to the wrist - I would never leash to the wrist as the downside of being pulled by your wrist is too high. Think of the potential damage.

There are many ways to secure a paddle when you are not using it. It might be best to figure out what they are rather than use a leash.

Ideas for stowing a Euro Blade -

- use the first bungee closest to you. Just slide one blade under the bungee. Drop the paddle and it is now secured.

- Tuck the paddle across your boat and pin it under your life jacket as you bend slightly at the waist.

- use a short tow/paddle biner to attach your paddle to a line (never bungee)

I would suggest that the wrong place to stow a paddle is in your forward decklines. Many people take the blade and shove it under the forward deck line. All it takes is a bit of water movement for that paddle to move away from you and twist nicely into the line. That will secure the paddle BUT unfortunately it is far away from your hands and therefore not accessible to you.

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I use a leash about 100% when paddling by myself and less frequently when paddling with someone. (also use a leash on ice axe)

Figure on any given day something can go wrong and a leash can work against you.

but

...then again on any given day things can go perfectly fine and it is a benefit for me.

If I take the number of days of no problem and put it as a fraction over days when it worked against me and decided from there.

I think it would be 99.9% of the time it is fine for me. If I wasn't secure with that number I would debate becoming an insurance salesman because you never know, something might fall from the sky and land on top of me ruining a perfectly fine day...Murphy's law.

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- leash to the wrist - I would never leash to the wrist as the downside of being pulled by your wrist is too high. Think of the potential damage.

After leashing to my wrist, dropping my paddle (hey it's on a leash!) and trying to do a T rescue in conditions I will never leash again! The paddle was sucked under the boats because of the current and that short bungie on my wrist kept pulling my hand down so I couldn't pull/roll the other kayak onto my deck.

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The paddle was sucked under the boats because of the current and that short bungie on my wrist kept pulling my hand down so I couldn't pull/roll the other kayak onto my deck.

And if the safety feature of being able to break the tether worked where would you be? Not a good place because getting paddles on the creek is really hard now.

http://www.sosnews.org/shitcreek/

http://www.angelfire.com/hero/poop/ordering_info_.htm

Ed Lawson

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Whether it's during rescues, self recoveries (re-enter- and - roll etc ) or general paddling, paddle management falls into roughly 3 categories: 1) tether the paddle 2) stow the paddle ( usually using decklines or bungees), and 3) just hold on to your paddle.

All I know is i've seen various paddlers, at all levels, use each of these three methods, so theres good evidence that all three are viable and its up to the individual paddler to judge which is best for them.

Personally i go for the hold-on-to-your-paddle method. It's worked for me well. Evidently I'm good at holding onto my paddle under some duress. If not I'd definitely be considering the other two options more seriously. I'm inclined to think that any force (e..e. big wave) big and strong enough to separate you from your paddle or you from your boat, is probably strong enough that its probably not a good idea to resist it.

And if the safety feature of being able to break the tether worked where would you be? Not a good place because getting paddles on the creek is really hard now.

http://www.sosnews.org/shitcreek/

http://www.angelfire.com/hero/poop/ordering_info_.htm

Ed Lawson

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In the DVD "Sea Kayak Safety" produced by two L5 BCU Coaches in the UK, they noted that in doing the filming of various rescues for the DVD they came to appreciate the value of tethering paddles to the boat. It seemed it was something of a revelation for them after many years of doing it another way.

I suspect most would agree losing contact with a paddle or boat in wind, wave and current is not a good thing and something to assiduously avoid by developing some technique or skill or kit to reduce the risk.

Ed Lawson

Who likes to keep it simple

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I use a leash about 100% when paddling by myself and less frequently when paddling with someone. (also use a leash on ice axe)

Figure on any given day something can go wrong and a leash can work against you.

but

...then again on any given day things can go perfectly fine and it is a benefit for me.

If I take the number of days of no problem and put it as a fraction over days when it worked against me and decided from there.

I think it would be 99.9% of the time it is fine for me. If I wasn't secure with that number I would debate becoming an insurance salesman because you never know, something might fall from the sky and land on top of me ruining a perfectly fine day...Murphy's law.

I don’t disagree with your decision to use a paddle leash. But, just to nit pick, I disagree with your numerical reasoning. Depends on the definition of “something” can go wrong. If that “something” being wrong often results in death or serious injury then I doubt that you’d use a paddle leash if the probability of nothing going wrong is only 0.999 (99.9%).
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I don’t disagree with your decision to use a paddle leash. But, just to nit pick, I disagree with your numerical reasoning. Depends on the definition of “something” can go wrong. If that “something” being wrong often results in death or serious injury then I doubt that you’d use a paddle leash if the probability of nothing going wrong is only 0.999 (99.9%).

Life does bring smiles.. actually I just made that number up.. hope folks don't think I did some in depth numerology here.

I drive a car, most times Oh maybe 99%, of the time I don't get in an accident...oh wait maybe it's 98.5 of the time ...or ...

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In the DVD "Sea Kayak Safety" produced by two L5 BCU Coaches in the UK, they noted that in doing the filming of various rescues for the DVD they came to appreciate the value of tethering paddles to the boat. It seemed it was something of a revelation for them after many years of doing it another way.

I suspect most would agree losing contact with a paddle or boat in wind, wave and current is not a good thing and something to assiduously avoid by developing some technique or skill or kit to reduce the risk.

Ed Lawson

Who likes to keep it simple

Did they carry spare paddles that were easily accessible? It seems that even with a leash, you are still going to loose your paddle and thus should be ready to easily deal with a lost paddle.

It might be worth noting that GP's are particularly good at securely stowing on and deploying from the front deck. ...perhaps to recover the paddle you just dropped.

Cheers!

Ty

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Did they carry spare paddles that were easily accessible?

No, most of the time they did not have a spare paddle and if they had a spare,the split was on foredeck. Speaking of splits, I believe it is a good exercise to practice rolling with half a paddle as you are unlikely to want to put a paddle together while bobbing about.

It seems that even with a leash, you are still going to loose your paddle...

The paddles were tethered to the boat and no about to go anywhere easily.

They did make a point of never losing contact with boat and paddle

Ed Lawson

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Hey Leon,

Trust you're having fun in those warmer waters. Pics yet?

The ONE time I forgot to tether my paddle (NEVER to my wrist!) I capsized and YOU had to go fetch it, remember? And I remember you took your sweet time about it as Bob rescued me as we pushed towards the rocks. I've always wondered if you were letting us have the training exercise or whether my brightly-colored Ikelos really did swim that far away...?

Happy Holidays to you and Claire.

Ern

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Hey Leon,

Trust you're having fun in those warmer waters. Pics yet?

The ONE time I forgot to tether my paddle (NEVER to my wrist!) I capsized and YOU had to go fetch it, remember? And I remember you took your sweet time about it as Bob rescued me as we pushed towards the rocks. I've always wondered if you were letting us have the training exercise or whether my brightly-colored Ikelos really did swim that far away...?

Happy Holidays to you and Claire.

Ern

Ern, everyone knows that I'm not a fast paddler! Besides, I spent time looking for your expensive chart which was more important.

Not the kind of pix you're probably thinking about but here's one of me holding a crevalle jack I caught in the Palm Beach inlet (among some 20 others that day).

Happy holidays to you and the family too.

Leonpost-100270-0-50853600-1293123217_thumb.

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In defense of wrist leashes, there is more than one type. While I agree that I would never use a wrist leash with a solid connection to my wrist like a Nylon strap, those with a bungee loop around the wrist are quite safe, as you can slip out of them easily when necessary. This is also important when using one during rescues or for photography, where it's best to take it off your wrist and tuck the ball on the wrist loop under your deck rigging. That way, your hands are completely free for other activities. For those of you who may not be familiar with this type of leash, there are pics of one here: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/63141273BimkGp The one pictured is made from an inexpensive "sail tie" that you can find at any marine supplier.

That said, I haven't used a leash since my second year of paddling and I firmly believe that having one's boat rigged to allow rapid stowing of the paddle in the deck rigging is a FAR superior practice than using leashes of any type.

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