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Repairing a torn sprayskirt


Gcosloy

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I have gone through my second Snapdragon medium sprayskirt in four years. The leading edge of the keyhole tends to wear thru, even though it is reinforced. This began initial when I started using my Explorer which has a marginally larger cockpit than medium, however the snapdragon large is too loose at the sides. My first tear was repaired by snapdragon with what looks like some glued on tape. I'd like to do this myself. What advise can you give me. I have some spare neoprene that comes with wet suits. Can I just contact cement this into the breach?

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I have gone through my second Snapdragon medium sprayskirt in four years. The leading edge of the keyhole tends to wear thru, even though it is reinforced. This began initial when I started using my Explorer which has a marginally larger cockpit than medium, however the snapdragon large is too loose at the sides. My first tear was repaired by snapdragon with what looks like some glued on tape. I'd like to do this myself. What advise can you give me. I have some spare neoprene that comes with wet suits. Can I just contact cement this into the breach?

Hi Gene,

Have you checked the front of your cockpit rim for sharp edges? Though I have not made this particular repair, I don't see why glueing some neo on the inside of the spray deck would not work. I'd also glue the cut in the deck.

Well, theirs my 2 cents ($3.50 with the coming inflation),

Chuck

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Gene:

I've repaired my spray skirts many times for cuts, both on the nose where you've experienced them as well as on the sides (at the sharp edge of the rim) from other boats during rescue practice. Neither of my skirts originally had a rand or any reinforcing material. The skirts are used on an Explorer and a Romany 16.

My standard repair is to glue the cuts back together with AquaSeal, a very strong and flexible glue. Just make sure the edges are more or less touching each other and reasonably aligned. They don't need to be perfect (unless cosmetics are a critical concern). For small cuts, the tension in the material is enough to hold the edges together. If the split is an inch or more, I've either loosely sewn the edges together or temporary stapled them together. Just be sure to force some glue into the crack so the edges are saturated. Don't worry about the strength of the thread: AquaSeal is stronger than the neoprene, so the thread or staples are merely used to keep the edges aligned until the glue sets. The glue itself can span a 1/16-1/8" crack with ease once set, but it will sag and drip until then.

It's more difficult on the nose where the skirt has to bend around the rim. Don't expect a flat AquaSeal section to flex around and under the rim: you will have to fiddle to shape the skirt as if it is already conforming under the rim: AquaSeal will take on and maintain any shape you devise. I've used straight pins to tack the material in place and sticks, boxes and other stuff to position the skirt. Be relatively sparing with the glue: while flexible after setting, if it gets thick it doesn't flex much. Also, try to avoid a solid block of AquaSeal for more than 2-3 linear inches if you can help it, so the skirt still stretches where it needs to.

After several repairs, I started preventive measures: running a thin layer of AquaSeal about 1/4-1/2" wide on the inside where the shape rim hits and also on the outside where rescued boats cut through the skirt. Sort of a homemade rand. Works great: the AquaSeal adheres tenaciously to the nylon fabric on the neoprene and is much tougher than neoprene.

I'm still repairing a skirt I got over 10 years ago: looks ugly but is still functional.

Personally, I'd avoid adding neoprene as the bulk could be, well, bulky and make a good seal difficult. Besides, neoprene tears pretty easily so it won't do much better than the skirt material that got cut up in the first place. AquaSeal ends up being a custom applied rand that really resists cuts.

In fact, Glacier 2 mm neoprene gloves fit me perfectly, but the seam at the base of the wrist splits after a season or two. So I've taken to applying a preventive bead of AquaSeal along the seam on the outside when I first get a new pair and they last several times a long.

Good luck.

Scott

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Hi Gene,

I'll second Chuck's advice re the edge of the coaming or flange. Taking a piece of 220 sand paper, round the edge of the rim all the way around the flange. Carefully feel the underside for any sharp edges of fiberglass as well and sand this as well. I've yet to feel a factory cockpit flange that did NOT need to be smoothed out.

You need to use a small piece to be in control of it so as not to be scratching the top face of the flange or the deck surface below. You are looking to nicely radius the edge and smooth out the underside only.

As an added benefit, the skirt goes on and off easier and with less wear.

Jon

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some paddlers put car edging strip on the edge of their coamings to help prevent this...it also would make a bulbous lip at the edge and get your skirt to have more of a positive locked on seal.....

you cant get it a pep boys etc...... make sure you get the "U" shaped channeled one....might have preloaded adhesive in the channel too....kinda of like hot melt glue....

had that on my MEGA surf boat and it worked well...

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