Moving a bulkhead

[Gcosloy]

I'm thinking of buying someones boat that has C/K layup with C/K bulkheads, presumably glassed in. I may need to move the front further aft for my longer legs. Is this a tough job? What tool is recommended to cut the bulkhead out and what material should you use to re-secure the bulkhead in the new position?

[bob budd]

A dremel is suitable for removal but a multimaster is the coolest tool to remove the bulkhead with. You can get fiberglass tape (or cut strips from a mat) and soak in epoxy, then add a bit. I forget how many layers are needed and I'm surprised I couldn't find instructions at Bryan Nystrom's website. You also need to get the shape of the bulkhead, we (that's Dee) laminated glass to make a panel that was cut to fit, then glassed it in. If you've done glass work, it isn't a big deal skill wise but does involve a few steps.

[jeffcasey]

The hardest part is getting up the nerve to cut the old one out. After that, it is just a lot of work. Brian Nystrom has a cool tool for cutting out the old one (perhaps that is the one Bob referred to).

Spend some time prepping the surface where the old one was glassed in -- you want this clean and smooth, since there won't be a bulkhead here anymore. You also want to prep where the new one is going...roughen the old surface so you can get good adhesion.

I wouldn't try to re-use the old smorngnozzled bulkhead remains, either....make a new one from scratch. Buy a thin sheet of G-10 (try McMaster Carr...great website), and cut it to fit nicely, then prop it in place with some lightly epoxied blocks on one side, and glass it in place firmly from the other...then remove the blocks and glass the flipside.

You'll be delighted when you do. I moved my front bulkhead back, so that I could pull out the footpeg rail and just line the new bulkhead with a few inches of foam for bracing...ultra comfortable (but glass it in VERY WELL...you don't want to push it out when you brace hard). I also got rid of that useless space behind the seat...I moved the rear bulkhead **back** about six inches, and added a new bulkhead right behind the seat, sloping, with a hard cushion attachment. Then I cut a dayhatch into the new trapped space (the omission of which was an oversight I never forgave the designers of the Diamante for).

Presto - new boat. I never did figure out how much weight I added, though...it is very hard to have a light hand with the fiberglass epoxy....'specially after a few beers.

[PeterB]

The hardest part is getting up the nerve to cut the old one out. After that, it is just a lot of work. Brian Nystrom has a cool tool for cutting out the old one (perhaps that is the one Bob referred to).

Spend some time prepping the surface where the old one was glassed in -- you want this clean and smooth, since there won't be a bulkhead here anymore. You also want to prep where the new one is going...roughen the old surface so you can get good adhesion.

I wouldn't try to re-use the old smorngnozzled bulkhead remains, either....make a new one from scratch. Buy a thin sheet of G-10 (try McMaster Carr...great website), and cut it to fit nicely, then prop it in place with some lightly epoxied blocks on one side, and glass it in place firmly from the other...then remove the blocks and glass the flipside.

You'll be delighted when you do. I moved my front bulkhead back, so that I could pull out the footpeg rail and just line the new bulkhead with a few inches of foam for bracing...ultra comfortable (but glass it in VERY WELL...you don't want to push it out when you brace hard). I also got rid of that useless space behind the seat...I moved the rear bulkhead **back** about six inches, and added a new bulkhead right behind the seat, sloping, with a hard cushion attachment. Then I cut a dayhatch into the new trapped space (the omission of which was an oversight I never forgave the designers of the Diamante for).

Presto - new boat. I never did figure out how much weight I added, though...it is very hard to have a light hand with the fiberglass epoxy....'specially after a few beers.

Gene,

I agree with Mr. Casey that the end result is wonderful and makes a huge difference in paddling comfort , use of compartment space etc. But I would not advise moving a bulkhead yourself unless you have the aptitude, the workspace , the safety equipment, the ventilation and the patience to do it. It's a difficult job that requires using resins & solvents in enclosed spaces. Removing the old bulkhead creates dust and particles that look like razor blades when seen under a microscope. You'll need skin, lung, and eye protection, and a dry workspace with ventilation, or work outside only when it's dry and the temps. are above @ 65 degrees. Installing the new one involves fumes in enclosed spaces. If all of that doesn't phase you, or you've done this kind of work before and like it , then you might consider it. Otherwise, I would consider having the job done by others.

Oval hatches make the job much easier.

Carbon kevlar , I'm told, is trickier to work with than fiberglass.

[Paul Sylvester]

I'm thinking of buying someones boat that has C/K layup with C/K bulkheads, presumably glassed in. I may need to move the front further aft for my longer legs. Is this a tough job? What tool is recommended to cut the bulkhead out and what material should you use to re-secure the bulkhead in the new position?

Assume you are moving it forward not aft as stated?

I would use epoxy since it is stronger and you can thicken it easy. You would need a small quart size with dispensers and thickeners. About $60 +/-

I did this once and it is easy. Where the old one is glassed in there will be a minor ridge left behind that can be worked down with a rasp. Be careful that you don't get into the hull glass by chipping. The bulkhead glass is stronger/ thicker than the hull glass.....

Tools needed, dust mask, drill with bits, vac, rasp....dremmel or anything you are comfy with.

Try a 12" sawsall blade with about 14 -18 tpi with a pair of small vise grips for a handle.

You might start your pattern with the old bulkhead, or use cardboard and get it close.

I suggest that you buy a 1/4 luan handi panel at Home Cheapo (about 6.00$ ) Shape it and fit it to the hull. Little gaps are expected.

Laminate 6 oz cloth on each side of your 1/4"plywood. This is easy and clean if you have flat surfaces that you can press it between. I use two old formica cabinet doors with wax paper.

After the glass sets, trim it up and re fit it. Then do the surface prep on all surfaces. Use an epoxy type fillet with 2" glass tape on both sides.

I like strong bulkheads because if your feet ever break a bulkhead on an endo you could have a bad time.

Beware of any power tool that can catch and kick under there...

[bob budd]

Forgot to mention, move it further than you think, may an inch or two. Foam out the difference, allows for difference footwear, etc. Are you still growing?

[Brian Nystrom]

I guess I should chime in here, since my name has come up a few times. The reason that Bob couldn't find any instructions from me is that I haven't had the opportunity to shoot pics of the process yet. Here are a few pointers.

Removing the old bulkhead

As Bob mentioned, a Fein Multimaster is probably the ultimate tool for doing this and it's extremely handy for household work, too. The downside is that it's expensive, but it's one of those tools like a cordless drill that you'll wonder how you ever lived without.

If you prefer to go low-tech and inexpensive, a hacksaw blade with one end wrapped with duct tape will do the job just as well, albeit more slowly. Set it up to cut on the pull stroke. If you go this route, you'll need to protect the hull on the far side of the bulkhead where you can't see it while you're cutting. Thin sheet metal, like a coffee can, taped to the hull should do the trick. If you have an assistant, they may be able to help you control the blade. To start the cut. you'll either need to use the end of the blade to scratch your way through the bulkhead or drill some holes close together to make a slot.

Cleaning up the hull and deck

Again, the Multimaster works well for this, but a palm or ROS sander will do the job, too. As Paul suggested, a rasp is the best manual way to do this. I've never bothered to try to get all of the old bulkhead material off, just to sand/grind it down until it's smooth and doesn't have any edges that will catch on anything.

Making a new bulkhead

If you're moving the old bulkhead farther forward (not common) and you cut it out carefully, you can probably trim it to size and re-use it. If you're moving the bulkhead aft (most common), you'll need a new panel, since the old one will be too small. Jeff and Paul's suggestions are excellent, but you can also laminate a panel from several layers of glass cloth, if need be. That's what I typically do on my own boats. If you decide to go that route, let me know and I'll send you some instructions.

Making a pattern for the new bulkhead

First, you need to measure and mark the hull where you want the new bulkhead to go. Keep in mind that you have the option of angling it forward ~15 degrees to to make a comfortable footrest.

Once you have the boat marked, you can take a long piece of copper wire or plumber's solder and bend it to fit along your marked lines. Remove it and place it on a large sheet of paper or card stock. Trace around it, cut it out, then fold it in half along the vertical centerline. Trim any spots that are inconsistent left-to-right, then test fit it. Mark any areas that need further trimming or that have gaps. Make another pattern on cardboard and test fit it. It doesn't need to fit tight everywhere, as you're going to glass it in with 3" wide tape. I usually just try to get 3-4 contact points that will allow me to wedge the panel into place temporarily.

With the pattern complete, trace it onto your bulkhead panel and cut it out. Test fit and trim, if necessary.

Installing the new bulkhead

Someone mentioned using glued-in blocks to hold the new panel in place, which is definitely the way to go. If you have a hot glue gun, this is an ideal application for it, as it will hold firmly enough, but the blocks will be easy to remove afterward.

With the panel in place, you can start glassing it in with 3" tape and epoxy. What I usually do is use one piece that follows the full curve of the hull from seam to seam, let that cure until it won't move, then flip the boat over and use a second piece along the deck. If the bulkhead is not being used as a footrest, 2 layers of tape should be sufficient. If you are using it as a footrest, 3-4 layers are necessary. I typically do each layer in a separate step, so that they overlap at the joints. When working on the hull, you may need to cut the tape on the inside curve and overlap it. Keep a pair of scissors handy, then clean them in denatured alcohol to remove the epoxy while it's still wet.

Final cleanup

Once you have the bulkhead glassed in, remove the support blocks. There will be some uneven edges on the tape and probably a few epoxy runs/drips. You could sand them down, but I prefer to use a curved carbide scraper to remove them. I find it easier to control and it doesn't make a lot of dust.

Speaking of dust, as Peter mentioned, it's extremely important to wear proper protection for your eyes, lungs and skin when doing this type of work.

That should cover it. Have fun and good luck!

[Suz]

Over the years I have done two bulkheads - one I paid $150 to have done and the other, master Rick Crangle did with my "assistance". I have to say, I wouldn't have wanted to do this without someone who had done it before. It is messy work and depending on the boat, it can be more difficult (smaller the boat, the harder it is).

Personally, I would factor in the cost of bulkhead moving when I made the offer to buy and then I would just pay to have it moved.

If you need to buy supplies and tools and devote your time, unless you really love this kind of work, then you may be best off just paying to have done. It probably costs more than $150 nowadays but personally, I would rather be spending that free time on the water than with my head in the hatch of my boat sanding down the ridge.

Suz

[Brian Nystrom]

If you need to buy supplies and tools and devote your time, unless you really love this kind of work, then you may be best off just paying to have done.

I think it all comes down to whether you expect to be doing more of this type of work or if it's a one-off job. It also matters whether you can use the tools/supplies required for other jobs. Then again, some of us are just hell-bent on being self-sufficient - or mule-headed.