Owwwww

[Gillian]

Okay everything hurts: neck, arms, hands, fingers, sides, back . . . . I think my ankles are cool though

Another fun surf evening at Nahant (Long Beach) yesterday and much cleaner water! The waves were about as big, 2 footers, but there were longer wave periods so they didn't "feel" as strong as the ones the day before.

There were just three of us out, but we caught some good rides - my night was cut short by some minor whiplash on a wave that knocked me over and my head got snapped backwards . . . I realized it doesn't hurt too much hitting your head on the bottom as long as you're tucked forward but any other way = not so nice. I have an enormous appreciation for those that go out in big waves.

Kevin of course pointed out the obvious: "Well if you stop getting knocked over, you won't hit your head on the bottom!" What's that phrase, "Hell hath no fury . . " or maybe just "Payback's a bit**"

[brwells]

Catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world

Don't be afraid to try the greatest sport around (catch a wave, catch a wave)

Everybody tries it once

Those who don't just have to put it down

You paddle out turn around and raise

And baby that's all there is to the coastline craze

You gotta catch a wave and you're sittin' on top of the world

Not just a fad cause it's been going on so long (catch a wave, catch a wave)

All the kayakers going strong

They said it wouldn't last too long

They'll eat their words with a fork and spoon

And watch 'em they'll hit the road and all be surfin' soon

And when they catch a wave they'll be sittin' on top of the world

Catch a wave and your sittin' on top of the world

So take a lesson from a top-notch kayaker boy (catch a wave, catch a wave)

Get yourself a pintail

But don't you treat it like a toy

Just get away from the shady turf

And baby go catch some rays on the sunny surf

And when you catch a wave you'll be sittin on top of the world

---from the Beach Boys

Amazingly had to change very little.

Let's see more people out there next time! It is a blast, it helps with learning bracing & boat control, and, as Gillian spoke of an I can attest to, you also learn how to protect yourself when all else fails. Helmets are a must.

My high/low moment was blowing a turn on a good size wave and getting window-shaded. The force was so great that after I hit my head on the bottom I was torn from the cockpit (a "forced" wet exit?) So while laying there laughing at the crazy fun this was, a guy wading nearby comes over quite concerned holding my paddle. Whoops. Ego dissapeared almost as fast as my paddle must have.

[EEL]

Helmets are a must.

My high/low moment was blowing a turn on a good size wave and getting window-shaded. The force was so great that after I hit my head on the bottom I was torn from the cockpit (a "forced" wet exit?)

Please take my comments with the following in mind which effect my views:

First, I am a timid woodland creature.

Second, I have seen things go from everyone is having great fun to looking at two inches of someone's tibia sticking out in about a second.

Three, I have had to rappel off with a stokes carrying a buddy who would remain hospitalized for months due to a instant of bad luck.

Four, the odds of having a catastrophic cervical injury is very low, but it happens.

Now I know surfing is fun and on the east coast we are stuck with absurdly poor surfing conditions compared to the west coast which leads to surfing puny breaks onto beaches. And small waves look harmless and you are close to shore and you are near help, etc.

However, I think it is not absurd to say it is one of the more dangerous things you can do in a kayak. What good does a helmet do you if you get you head ground and twisted in the sand? You brain is protected from an impact injury, but that is irrelevant if you spinal cord is severed. That said I agree a helmet is a must, but it does not provide protection against everyything.

I suspect the difference between those who suffer a serious injury surfing and those who don't is often a matter of chance when both get rolled around in shallow water. The odds are in favor of laughing and saying isn't this fun, but it doesn't hurt to consider the inherent risks because the odds catch up every now and then.

Which presents less risk of injury, a 8' ledge break 300M offshore with deep water or 2' dumping surf on to a beach? It just seems so dangerous to be out there is big water, but is it?

Ed Lawson

[brwells]

I suspect the difference between those who suffer a serious injury surfing and those who don't is often a matter of chance when both get rolled around in shallow water. The odds are in favor of laughing and saying isn't this fun, but it doesn't hurt to consider the inherent risks because the odds catch up every now and then.

Which presents less risk of injury, a 8' ledge break 300M offshore with deep water or 2' dumping surf on to a beach? It just seems so dangerous to be out there is big water, but is it?

Ed Lawson

Ed, you are absolutely right in regards to assessing risk and that one should never get "fooled" into thinking something is safer simply because it appears so. I was possibly a bit capricious in my description of the event. Just as one learns to deal with rock play safely, one should certainly take the time to learn to surf safely. Starting with small 1' or less waves gives one an introduction to sudden movements of the kayak, how important a forceful and steady brace is, and that when all else fails, to tuck forward. As one gets more experience with larger waves, the learning continues.

Risk is inherent with most of what we do in kayaking. One prepares for it as best as possible with proper instruction, practice, experience, etc. This is true for those of us going surfing as it is the lone paddler, or the paddler stuck in fog, or those crossing channels, or, well, you get the point. If one avoids risk, then there is little to do but become an armchair adventurer.

Your question regarding relative risks is a good one; obviously the answer is dependent on many variables such as the person, weather, equipment, etc. And the answer will be different for different people. I know that for me I am still a bit wary of rock play, especially after seeing and hearing some of the "interesting" things that have occurred over the years (ask about the Explorer that had its bow almost taken completely off.)

There are certain risks that are quantified such as the risk of flying, driving, smoking, and the like. I do not know of any statistics for the specific activities we do in kayaking or of kayaking in general (there is only the "x people lost their lives this year", but that does not tell much at all.) I always find it ironic when someone talks of the risk of flying, but drives without much thought, or watching an interview on the news with a parent talking about the latest incident at a school all the while it is obvious they are not wearing a seat belt. Am I guilty of the same with regards to kayaking or my other hobbies? Quite possibly; but I know that I will only do something after doing as much as possible to learn about an activity and then take small steps. Mighty small steps with some of these!

So, while I "hit my head", I was also in a good tuck, wearing my helmet, and was in conditions that were exciting yet not so far above my skills that I was unable to react. These were also rolling waves, not hard dumping waves. Are these statements subjective? Yes! But if we decided that surfing is too dangerous to ever try, then how about white water kayaking, or trying to do a seal launch or landing between rocks, or rolling, or ??

Maybe a too long response; but I do appreciate what you are saying Ed, but as in any risky activity, one can manage many aspects of it. That and possibly reduce the hyperbolic statements afterward. "The beast was 6 inches if it was 10 feet."

[EEL]

but I do appreciate what you are saying Ed, but as in any risky activity, one can manage many aspects of it.

And I appreciate what you have said and I think we agree.

Ed Lawson

[bob budd]

I agree that risk is a personal choice, with appropriate consideration to those who would be effected by ones choices as mentioned in another thread.

I would remind all that the risk of an accident enroute to a paddle exceeds that of being injured during a paddle. I doubt that surfing substantially alters this relationship.

[Gcosloy]

I suspect that accidents that result in serious injury or death among the seakayaking community are lower in frequency than other risk entailed sports. One of the reasons other than this being a relatively safe endeavor is that the afore mentioned community seems to be comprised of more thoughtful, educated and trained participants than the general population. Notice that whenever the worst does happen, the obligatory post mortems usually reveal palpable poor judgment witnessed by lack of proper safety equipment, training, float plans, etc. Look at the recent statements by some members of NSPN regarding the wisdom of cold weather solo trips or surfing in shallows and you get the feeling that when it comes to safety, this is a serious priority.

[RogerPollock]

I surf more than anything else now . . . alone . . . at one of the most miserable, battering beach breaks in the area, just because it's close and convenient.

And every time I enter the surf, I'm afraid to one degree or another . . . I don't know if that will ever change, or if it would be a good thing if it did.