Kayak epoxy?

[jason]

I took the hose to my kayak to day to figure where the water was leaking into the boat.

My boat has two very large leaks in the combing. When I put the hose on the the water went into the boat.

I think that the combing is leaking as someone has been carrying my boat loaded by the combing. What is the correct epoxy/filler to use? Should I reinforce this with some glass too prevent this from happing again or just fix it when it happens again?

Thanks -Jason

[Suz]

I took the hose to my kayak to day to figure where the water was leaking into the boat.

My boat has two very large leaks in the combing. When I put the hose on the the water went into the boat.

I think that the combing is leaking as someone has been carrying my boat loaded by the combing. What is the correct epoxy/filler to use? Should I reinforce this with some glass too prevent this from happing again or just fix it when it happens again?

Thanks -Jason

Look no farther than yourself for that one!!! You are the only person I know to carry a loaded boat yourself!

Better ask Brad about that fix.

Suz

[subaruguru]

I took the hose to my kayak to day to figure where the water was leaking into the boat.

My boat has two very large leaks in the combing. When I put the hose on the the water went into the boat.

I think that the combing is leaking as someone has been carrying my boat loaded by the combing. What is the correct epoxy/filler to use? Should I reinforce this with some glass too prevent this from happing again or just fix it when it happens again?

Thanks -Jason

Jason,

If the layup isn't torn or cracked why not just smear some 2-part epoxy along the cleaned-up crack? If the entire layup is torn maybe you need to use a non-crackable repair using a substrate like fb, etc. I'm not a pro at this.

If you read my Cetus saga I used a 2-part epoxy with steel filler (J-B Weld); tubes look normal, but material is white and black, mixing to steel-gray, with a slow (therefore stronger) 4-6 hr cure rate. If you could het some of this INTO the crack you'd probably be ok, and then touch up for cosmetics. I just don't know how coaming substrates are made, so this may be tricky.

We'll see how my prone keel end holds up.

Good Luck.

[jason]

Jason,

If the layup isn't torn or cracked why not just smear some 2-part epoxy along the cleaned-up crack? If the entire layup is torn maybe you need to use a non-crackable repair using a substrate like fb, etc. I'm not a pro at this.

If you read my Cetus saga I used a 2-part epoxy with steel filler (J-B Weld); tubes look normal, but material is white and black, mixing to steel-gray, with a slow (therefore stronger) 4-6 hr cure rate. If you could het some of this INTO the crack you'd probably be ok, and then touch up for cosmetics. I just don't know how coaming substrates are made, so this may be tricky.

We'll see how my prone keel end holds up.

Good Luck.

Thanks,

I am sorry to hear about the issue with the Cetus. I hope that you are able to make it look/act just like new.

I will look for the J-B Weld Monday. It's not at all cosmetic asl I can't see it when looking for the leak. I thought that issue was the spray deck, this winter I replaced the spray deck without any luck. (The old one had a few holes)

Brad told me to look at the deck fittings and coaming. I couldn't see it but he suggested using a hose, once I turned the water on I could see the water running and and then feel the gap on one side, the other side it's leaking from under the knee foam (1/8"), I will have to peal it back to find the opening. This will be nice to fix as when I go out the cockpit is flooded in ~30 minutes depending on the conditions.

Thanks -Jason

[subaruguru]

Hi Jason,

Sounds like you may be able to squeeze some epoxy into the gap on one side and smear a little over the thinner crack on the inside and then reglue the pads and be done with it...until someone just a little too big sits ON the coaming?!

I remember that epoxies cured strength is inversely correllated with cure time, but frankly I don't think strength is that important here, as brittleness might be bad. Even a more flexible GOOP (I use to fill bulkhead seams) or simple silicone may work if this is about leakage rather than compromised strength.

I guess I'd start with the long-cure epoxy and if it recracks then just cover it with a pliable glue that'll have enough resilience to flex and not recrack.

Ern

[jason]

Hi Jason,

Sounds like you may be able to squeeze some epoxy into the gap on one side and smear a little over the thinner crack on the inside and then reglue the pads and be done with it...until someone just a little too big sits ON the coaming?!

I remember that epoxies cured strength is inversely correllated with cure time, but frankly I don't think strength is that important here, as brittleness might be bad. Even a more flexible GOOP (I use to fill bulkhead seams) or simple silicone may work if this is about leakage rather than compromised strength.

I guess I'd start with the long-cure epoxy and if it recracks then just cover it with a pliable glue that'll have enough resilience to flex and not recrack.

Ern

Thanks I am going to go with the long cure epoxy as we have a lot going on at work I won't be able to get out after work and paddle this week. I think that Brian has told us a few times that silicone is bad for boats thus we should use lexal (sp) if we need something such as silicone.

Thanks -Jason

[jason]

Thanks I am going to go with the long cure epoxy as we have a lot going on at work I won't be able to get out after work and paddle this week. I think that Brian has told us a few times that silicone is bad for boats thus we should use lexal (sp) if we need something such as silicone.

Thanks -Jason

Any hints on where one can find J-B Weld? I didn't have any luck at the Natick Home depot tonight.

Thanks -Jason

[spuglisi]

Any hints on where one can find J-B Weld? I didn't have any luck at the Natick Home depot tonight.

Thanks -Jason

Jason,

I've seen it in NAPA auto parts stores.

[subaruguru]

Any hints on where one can find J-B Weld? I didn't have any luck at the Natick Home depot tonight.

Thanks -Jason

Most hardware stores stock either the JB Weld or Loctite versions of "steel-filled" epoxy.

It's pretty generic stuff. I simply bought what was cheapest...about $4 for the 2-tube set in bubblepack.

[Brian Nystrom]

I would avoid JB Weld, as it's really not the best product for the job. It's designed for metal repairs and IMO it's too rigid to use on a kayak. The coaming and deck flex considerably and having a stiff material bonding them together is not a good idea. I would suggest using standard epoxy, perhaps thickened with silica, to fill any cracks and create a small fillet. If need be, a layer of 6-9 ounce fiberglass tape over the joint should reinforce and seal it without becoming too rigid.

[Deb Millar]

Hi Brian,

Since you're reading this and we're on the topic of coamings, I'm going to hitch on to this post with a question.

I've got some cracks -- nothing deep but clearly noticible -- on the coaming of my RomanyLV. Additionally, there's a chip or two. Do I repair this with epoxy if possible? Not worry about it?

There aren't any other leaks, just these dings and cracks. They've been there for awhile too, but I haven't noticed anything adverse.

Help will be greatly appreciated.

Deb M

[subaruguru]

I would avoid JB Weld, as it's really not the best product for the job. It's designed for metal repairs and IMO it's too rigid to use on a kayak.

...even on a keel edge? Seems like its strength and stiffness at a corner would be beneficial, as you don't want ANY flex there. Isn't that the point of reinforced keels? I can understand that it would pop out or cause an adjacent fracture because of excess rigidity along a flexy wall or deck face, but I surmised that ultimate strength is useful at joints and edges...hope it works for my keel.

[Brian Nystrom]

Hi Brian,

Since you're reading this and we're on the topic of coamings, I'm going to hitch on to this post with a question.

I've got some cracks -- nothing deep but clearly noticible -- on the coaming of my RomanyLV. Additionally, there's a chip or two. Do I repair this with epoxy if possible? Not worry about it?

There aren't any other leaks, just these dings and cracks. They've been there for awhile too, but I haven't noticed anything adverse.

Help will be greatly appreciated.

Deb M

Cracks on coaming rims are pretty common and typically just cosmetic, but if it flexes excessively or creaks at the crack site, it would indicate a structural problem. Personally, if it's just cosmetic, I don't bother with it as it's likely to crack again after being repaired. For minor chips, I just sand the area smooth so it won't damage my skirt or other gear. If you want to repair chips, thickened epoxy or gelcoat will work.

[Brian Nystrom]

...even on a keel edge? Seems like its strength and stiffness at a corner would be beneficial, as you don't want ANY flex there. Isn't that the point of reinforced keels? I can understand that it would pop out or cause an adjacent fracture because of excess rigidity along a flexy wall or deck face, but I surmised that ultimate strength is useful at joints and edges...hope it works for my keel.

I can't see any harm in using it on a keel edge, particularly at the bow or stern where the hull is very rigid. It would probably be much more durable than gelcoat, since it's much harder.

[risingsn]

Hi Jason,

Sounds like you may be able to squeeze some epoxy into the gap on one side and smear a little over the thinner crack on the inside and then reglue the pads and be done with it...until someone just a little too big sits ON the coaming?!

I remember that epoxies cured strength is inversely correllated with cure time, but frankly I don't think strength is that important here, as brittleness might be bad. Even a more flexible GOOP (I use to fill bulkhead seams) or simple silicone may work if this is about leakage rather than compromised strength.

I guess I'd start with the long-cure epoxy and if it recracks then just cover it with a pliable glue that'll have enough resilience to flex and not recrack.

Ern

Hi Jason, I had a leaky coaming in a Falcon 18. The coaming was glassed to the deck, but not under the seat hangers. I solved the problem with fingers full of silicone . I would like to hear why silicone is bad for the boat. J-B Weld, I get it @ Home Depot in the paint section. Thanks, Chuck

[jason]

Hi Jason, I had a leaky coaming in a Falcon 18. The coaming was glassed to the deck, but not under the seat hangers. I solved the problem with fingers full of silicone . I would like to hear why silicone is bad for the boat. J-B Weld, I get it @ Home Depot in the paint section. Thanks, Chuck

As Brian has told us you can't glass over silicone or fully remove it. Nothing will stick to it and it won't stick to it's self.

-Jason

[Brian Nystrom]

As Brian has told us you can't glass over silicone or fully remove it. Nothing will stick to it and it won't stick to it's self.

-Jason

That's close, but not exactly correct. Silicone leaves a residue that is difficult to remove. Unless it's completely removed, nothing will bond to the affected area other than more silicone. The residue can be removed with solvents such as Hexane, but that's not something that's commonly available. Additionally, silicone bonds poorly and has little strength compared to more suitable products like Lexel or GOOP. Bottom line, save silicone for caulking your bathtub and keep it away from your kayak.