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Post Storm Surfing 11/4


RogerPollock

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Sunday 11/4. We arrived at Nahant at noon to find Bill Gwynn outfitted for both touring and surfing. Watching the action together for a while, the surf wasn’t as clean as one would expect, and there was very stiff offshore wind. The were some very nice, large peelers with defined shoulders rolling in, but the price to pay was the bigger sets, mother boomers with overhead foam piles, that shook the sand we stood on.

Though the forecast was for diminishing conditions, they hadn’t diminished all that much yet.

After discussion and reflection, we made the call to check out Kings Beach, which appeared smaller and much mellower.

A good call – in the lee of the wind, a very easy paddle out, easy to time and easy to handle if it broke on you, unlike head-breaking GHB, which I’m accustomed to. Nice long, long, long rides with lots of green, and, often enough, defined shoulders to chase you down the line. Really, a very pleasant, very mellow kayak surfing day, such wasy sufing, with 3 + foot waves, no beatings, and, really very few capsizes for anybody.

Maybe an hour and a half to two hours and things rapidly began to die out. We should have packed up quick, and bang, boom rushed over to Nahant to catch the last of it, but, it was already so late with sunset almost on top of us, so we made the best of the last few swells, until they were gone:(.

Well, a good thing I guess, to opt for the smaller venue. Fortunately, it wasn’t a dynamic with too much testosterone and not enough brains. We’ll all have an opportunity to do something stupid another weekend, perhaps as soon as the coming one, ‘cause it sounds as if there’s more surf on the way (!!!!!).

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Rick S and I went to Jenness Beach to play. There were a lot of boarders but you could catch some nice 8 footers past the furthest surfers. If you could drop in to one of these you would scream, the fastest I've been on a wave. I did a nice endo to finish off the day, maytag and roll. post-100129-1194273912_thumb.jpg

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Rick S and I went to Jenness Beach to play. There were a lot of boarders but you could catch some nice 8 footers past the furthest surfers. If you could drop in to one of these you would scream, the fastest I've been on a wave. I did a nice endo to finish off the day, maytag and roll. post-100129-1194273912_thumb.jpg

Glad to see that people got out on what was clearly a big surf day.

We were paddling at Cape Small, and with swell rolling in from the south, unimpeded, there was giant surf on the south- facing beach between Bald Head and Small Point. Presumably Popham Beach , a few miles to the east , was a sight to behold as well. As the surf in this area looked positively life- threatening, we gave it a wide berth...

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There was up to 10 of us down in Little Compton surfing sunday afternoon.......

Sam carl and hugh were all out intheir new Murky Waters surf boats.....

and the rest of us in white water boats having a blast......

beaut day!!!!!!!!!!!!!

r

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I tried a surf boat for the first time this weekend, too. Very interesting not a massively different experience than a planing-hulled ww boat, but the finned experience was cool. Seems lots of interesting possibilities, there. I haven't bought a new boat in a while, now, and that plastic Mega Maverick sure looks cool . . . hmmm . . . and many colros to chose from . . . hmmm . .

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...surf in this area looked positively life- threatening...

caught a little ride and then looked back to see that it had moved me along into some bad place....wave was moving/steepening too fast (and boy, wasn't that just blotting out everything else....i suppose from anyone who saw it's pov, it was entertaining) to outrun it and i surely wasn't going back over it....and so it crashed down upon me, announcing it malicious intent with a roar and a boom...somewhere in there managed to tweak my neck and so shortly after my day began, it had ended.

figured somedays it's better to say, "enough" before you do some real damage.

spent most of the remainder of yesterday on the couch with repeated consults with representatives from that most esteemed medical practice, flexeril and boddington...brilliant healers.

today, i just feel sore and old.

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"Is this the end of Rico?"

And does this mean the end of the by-line too?

Ed Lawson

i'll take obscure movie quotes for $1000 alex...

"mother of god...", no. i shall no doubt be fine and back to rock chewing glory shortly....just not today and sure as hell not yesterday.

and i think i sorted out the by-line thing....how's that one?

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That was the thing . . . some of those 8 footers out there looked like a blast, but others . . . you'd have tales to tell, that's for sure. Tough, tough call . . .

"somewhere in there managed to tweak my neck . . ." Not an experience I'm ever looking for, but I guess them's the risks . . .

Heal well . . .

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