Skeg cable leak -- how to fix?

[jwhipple]

With my Explorer's warranty soon to expire, I finally got serious about tracking down why my day hatch regularly collects so much water, mainly when I've been upside down (intentionally or otherwise).

Having tested and ruled out hatch ring problems or a misfitting hatch lid (both proved watertight), I discovered that the cable skeg sheath (which seems to be coated with something waterproof for most of its length) is exposed where it passes from the cockpit to the dayhatch, and sure enough that's the exact source of the leak.

Seems like a relatively simple thing to fix without bothering about warranty (which involves a roundtrip to Burlington VT) ... my guess is that just gooping it up with something (but what?) to make it watertight where it passes through the bulkhead would solve the problem. Or is there something I'm missing here?

Any advice? Beyond suggesting that if I had a bombproof roll I wouldn't need the repair ...

Thanks in advance,

Judy

[Gcosloy]

Judy, I have suffered exactly the same problem with my Explorer. Get a tube of Lexel and apply a generous amount around the skeg tube where it passes through the bulkhead on both sides of the bulkhead. Put it on your finger and reach in and feel the area. Have a small dish of some paint thinner which will help spread it smoothly. Also good to remove same from fingers when your done. If you're squeamish about exposing VOC's to your flesh, wear latex or rubber gloves. I needed to do two applications before I sealed it up properly.

[Kevin B (RPS Coach)]

With my Explorer's warranty soon to expire, I finally got serious about tracking down why my day hatch regularly collects so much water, mainly when I've been upside down (intentionally or otherwise).

Having tested and ruled out hatch ring problems or a misfitting hatch lid (both proved watertight), I discovered that the cable skeg sheath (which seems to be coated with something waterproof for most of its length) is exposed where it passes from the cockpit to the dayhatch, and sure enough that's the exact source of the leak.

Seems like a relatively simple thing to fix without bothering about warranty (which involves a roundtrip to Burlington VT) ... my guess is that just gooping it up with something (but what?) to make it watertight where it passes through the bulkhead would solve the problem. Or is there something I'm missing here?

Any advice? Beyond suggesting that if I had a bombproof roll I wouldn't need the repair ...

Thanks in advance,

Judy

Judy,

Not sure how to fix it, but Bob at canoeimports might be able to meet you around here if he happens to be traveling in the area. It's worth giving him a call if you end up having him repair it.

[jason]

Judy, I have suffered exactly the same problem with my Explorer. Get a tube of Lexel and apply a generous amount around the skeg tube where it passes through the bulkhead on both sides of the bulkhead. Put it on your finger and reach in and feel the area. Have a small dish of some paint thinner which will help spread it smoothly. Also good to remove same from fingers when your done. If you're squeamish about exposing VOC's to your flesh, wear latex or rubber gloves. I needed to do two applications before I sealed it up properly.

What makes the Lexel worth having a list price of $79.04 (Amazon $11+ Shipping). Instead of using a 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant WestMarine.com

My skeg is leaking again and I am debating bringing it to Brad, who will do a great job of fixing (Much better than I will do) or attempting it myself. The only downside with brad is I need to make two trips North and not paddle then.

-Jason

[Brian Nystrom]

That price is BS. Lexel is actually pretty inexpensive and you can find it at many hardware stores. Here's what you should be paying: http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0072640.html

I strongly recommend AGAINST using any silicone products, as they don't bond strongly and they leave a residue that makes it difficult to get anything else to bond to the surface.

[PeterB]

Judy,

Do you mean that where the skeg cable tube passes through the bulkhead, theres some void there, so water can leak though the bulkhead right next to the tube? If so, you could use plumbers epoxy. (Home Depot, a couple of bucks) you knead part A and B together and it handles like modeling clay. You can keep your fingers lubricated with a small amount of water or denatured alcohol.

[jason]

That price is BS. Lexel is actually pretty inexpensive and you can find it at many hardware stores. Here's what you should be paying: http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-0072640.html

I strongly recommend AGAINST using any silicone products, as they don't bond strongly and they leave a residue that makes it difficult to get anything else to bond to the surface.

Brian,

Since the skeg was installed with silicone would you recommend still using it or attempting to remove it and then using Lexel from now on?

Thanks -Jason

[Brian Nystrom]

Brian,

Since the skeg was installed with silicone would you recommend still using it or attempting to remove it and then using Lexel from now on?

Thanks -Jason

Is this the factory installation? If so, how to you know it's silicone?

Regardless, if it's not leaking, leave it alone. If it IS leaking, you have two choices:

1- Add more silicone, which may not seal for long, but it may do the job. That would be the easiest way out if it works.

2- Remove the silicone, clean the area carefully, then use Lexel. Dow (or GE) recommends cleaning with hexane, but I've heard of people using mineral spirits and denatured alcohol successfully.

Since you'll be doing the work, it's your call.

[jason]

Is this the factory installation? If so, how to you know it's silicone?

Regardless, if it's not leaking, leave it alone. If it IS leaking, you have two choices:

1- Add more silicone, which may not seal for long, but it may do the job. That would be the easiest way out if it works.

2- Remove the silicone, clean the area carefully, then use Lexel. Dow (or GE) recommends cleaning with hexane, but I've heard of people using mineral spirits and denatured alcohol successfully.

Since you'll be doing the work, it's your call.

Brian,

Thanks for the advice. I think that I will go with option #1 then I can always go with option #2 later.

"Is this the factory installation? If so, how to you know it's silicone?" The skeg tube came unhooked from the skeg box once and was repaired, It looks to me like silicone and has the feel/texture of silicone.

Thanks -Jason

[JohnHuth]

Misery loves company. The fitting of my skeg - when it penetrates the glass to the skeg itself, sheared off in May. I've been limping along with plumber's putty all season. It's a major enough fix that I think it will require some glass-work and general mucking around, I'll leave it to whenever I get off the water for a month (February?).

Till then, I do a plumber's putty check before heading out each time.

(Tempest 170)

[jwhipple]

Thanks all for your input ... once again the amazing NSPN community comes through!

Just by way of update: I did get in touch with Bob at Canoe Imports (he does all their kayak repair), and he confirmed many of the things you all said. First, it's not rocket science, just put a bead of your chosen goop all the way around the tube where it passes through the bulkhead, so I'll do it myself rather than hassle the warranty (which expires, um, Friday ...)

As to chosen goop, he considered fiberglass a definite no and he wasn't keen on plumber's putty/epoxy, in both cases because of the poly-plastic (can't remember which chemical he said after "poly") nature of the cable tube. Its flexibility seemed to be one of the things he was concerned about.

He felt Lexel, silicone sealants, AquaSeal would all work fine. He didn't have concerns about silicone in this particular application because (as I understood it) there's no load involved. So, I'll probably either get a little tube of Lexel or use the AquaSeal I have lying around.

Again, thanks!