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Paddling up the coast of Maine


suwin

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Hi all,

Interesting article about inn to inn paddling in Maine. http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/08/24/trave...html?ref=travel

I wonder how many members have done their own tours up the coast and have their own "must see" places and suggestions for the best lobster rolls in the state.

Suwin

You may want to check out the NYTimes today--the escape section--there is an article of paddling from inn-to-inn with places to eat lobster rolls. The article is writing byan author who paddles up to 25 miles in a day along the unpredictable Maine seacoast--not for the leisurely, scenic paddler.

Les aka swearing ferret

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I wonder how many members have done their own tours up the coast and have their own "must see" places and suggestions for the best lobster rolls in the state.

Quite a few. My impression is many members have spent a fair bit of time paddling on the Maine Coast. Maybe not Inn to Inn. I know Lee Bumstead has a nice book if dated that is a good guide for planning such and I guess Ray Wirth will plan, but not guide, such trips if you prefer.

I'm not sure about Waterman's being the best although it is famous, I'm a Tall Barney's and Five Islands sort of guy.

Ed Lawson

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Too many to name - but - Islesford is a great spot, off of Mt. Desert. They have a nice Inn there, and an excellent restaurant on the island. It's home to an artists community, and there is a local gallery. There's also a lobster gang that works out of the local harbor - a very electic mix of eccentric characters.

Read "The Secret Life of Lobsters" if you want to get an idea of what Islesford's all about.

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I wonder how many members have done their own tours up the coast and have their own "must see" places and suggestions for the best lobster rolls in the state.

Can't speak for lobster rolls, except I understand they always taste better in Maine anyway.

But about our least favorite places to paddle in that part of Maine is Muscongus Bay, out of Friendship. Very few kayakers frequent the area because of a shortage of B&B's and launch sites with parking, so you might be among the few paddlers on the water. The harbor is strictly a working harbor with piles of unsightly lobster traps on all the piers, and nary a gift shop in sight to get a postcard or lobster pot keychain for the folks back home.

About the only boat traffic in the bay is lobstermen (nope, no lobsterwomen that I've seen), and they'll try to run you down at every opportunity. The lobster buoys dotting the water everywhere are a real eyesore and you are constantly bumping into them with your bow. The great variety of paddling will only make you cry when you have to leave. The bird sanctuary on Eastern Egg Island is full of smelly, raucous birds, including the recently re-introduced Atlantic Puffin, a disappointing small and ugly bird despite its bright orange beak. Besides, the feds won't let you land there, so you have to stay offshore with your binoculars.

The only decent restaurants are at least 30 minutes drive away, in Rockland, and though many of them are top-notch, you'll need reservations at least a day in advance. For camping there are just a few MITA islands which are either choked with trees or overcrowded with other paddlers passing through or spending the day.

I'd particularly avoid the Outsiders Inn B&B, especially because the proprietor is a Maine Guide and kayak outfitter/guide who is overly friendly and will only confuse you with tons of suggestions for places to launch and paddle. And, the homemade breakfasts at the place are so yummy that you'll stuff yourself before paddling and feel really uncomfortable.

So all in all, Muscongus is a terrible place to paddle. Please stay away and warn all your friends likewise.

--David.

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JohnHuth

"Read "The Secret Life of Lobsters" if you want to get an idea of what Islesford's all about."

I understand that book comes in a plain brown wrapper. Which may in part explain the bumper sticker I saw up there which simply said, "I'd rather be having sex on Islesford."

The general store is a living time capsule. Wonderful place, wonderful paddle to get there.

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Dunno about "must see" but I spend a lot of time paddling in the Boothbay Harbor Area, and it's nice, if you stay away from the touristy town proper. Pretty good water access, and you can pick your conditions - there's something for everyone from flat water to fairly significant tidal currents and chop. The Southport "Rowgatta" is held every August - a 12 nm circumnavigation of Southport Island. It's not really a serious race, but people move along pretty good - the winner this year was in a double and came in at 1:57. The plastic barge and I came in 4th at 2:07.

The best lobster roll you'll ever have is available from Osier's at the drawbridge in the South Bristol Gut - nothing but a grilled hot dog roll, a tiny bit of mayo and lemon, a decorative portion of lettuce, and a ton of lobster.

Tim

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Muscungus Bay is a favorite spot for many. Paddling options range from trips in more protected waters, (e.g. from Bremen Town dock down to Hokomock channel and Medomak, or circumnavigate Bremen Long Island), up to venturing further out into the bay (Thief Island, or all the way out to Egg Rock, depending on comfort/skill level/preparation) . Be prepared for fog and lobster boats, though. More lobster traps per square meter than anywhere I’ve ever been. If you can paddle on a Sunday all the better.

For lobster rolls, check out roadfood.com: and the section under ‘Maine” and “lobster pounds”

http://www.roadfood.com/Restaurants/Search...;s=ME&rt=42

Check out Haraseeket Lobster Pound (in S. Freeport, but seems far removed from the LLBean atmosphere nearby ) and Red’s Eats in Wiscasett. Both a bit pricey, but Haraseeket has a lot of classic Maine lobster pound atmosphere, and Reds eats is unique (see review); rather than lobster salad (chunks of meat w/ mayonnaise) you get big chunks of fresh cooked lobster meat, (the better part of a whole boiled lobster), dpped in butter annd stuffed in a bun.

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Muscongus Bay

Launch at Broad Cove Marine-but make sure to bungee a big lobster pot on the back of your kayak.

Hit the dock before you launch and buy a few lobsters and steamers,and put them in a mesh bag,in the pot.

Paddle over to Hungry Is.(Crow if you're less ambitious). Leave your "bugs" in the water while you set up camp. Set up your kitchen and prepare your lobster feast.

Optional appetizer(mussels in beer and garlic)depending on the tide.

And everyone who has paddled Muscongus Bay should know what's in Medomak Harbor..can you name it? (no peeking online!)

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Wine as ballast: that fits nicely into the "everything in your kit should serve two purposes"

maxim.

The wine travels nicely in the MSR 10 liter bag,in the bottom of the day hatch.

No cheating! Ya gotta cook em on the island,otherwise you're just a tourist in a boat!

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The wine travels nicely in the MSR 10 liter bag,in the bottom of the day hatch.

No cheating! Ya gotta cook em on the island,otherwise you're just a tourist in a boat!

10 liters of wine, huh? I hear this works great for mosquitos - they won't bother you a bit. (or...rather, you won't be bothered by them a bit)

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Or a bit by them will not bother you?

Seriously, it seems to me a great deal of experimentation and data collection is needed here to ascertain and properly document whether there is a a correlation between the velocity of the wine bunker emptying and the amount of kayak instability.

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Or a bit by them will not bother you?

Seriously, it seems to me a great deal of experimentation and data collection is needed here to ascertain and properly document whether there is a a correlation between the velocity of the wine bunker emptying and the amount of kayak instability.

I believe the 10 litres of wine lying on the hull helps to offset the commotion caused by the lobsters trying to escape the pot on the back!

So...no takers to name the "object of interest " in Medomak Harbor????

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So...no takers to name the "object of interest " in Medomak Harbor????

Obviously those lobsters know what is coming.

Isn't that where the ship's way timbers are from when they were making schooners?

The Cressie (sp) wreck is down from Broad Cove Marine, but I don't think that is Medomak Harbor, but what do I know. I'm from away.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Obviously those lobsters know what is coming.

Isn't that where the ship's way timbers are from when they were making schooners?

The Cressie (sp) wreck is down from Broad Cove Marine, but I don't think that is Medomak Harbor, but what do I know. I'm from away.

EEL gets a gold star! Yes,it's the "Cora Cressy",a five masted coal schooner that was scuttled in the harbor at Medomak(Bremen)

Last Aprils' storm really took a bite out of the old girl,but it's still impressive!

The Cora Cressy

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