Keel Strip Repair Suggestions?

[Bill Whalen]

Hi folks - Any suggestions for reapplying the keep strip where is coming off? It's mostly intact and good shape, but separating from the hull in several areas.

Can this be saved? Suggestions for adhesive and process hold it in place, while drying?

Thank you!

Bill Whalen

Marblehead

 

[mhabich]

This looks like a stick-on Keel-Eazy strip rather than fiberglass and resin. If so, strip it off and be done with it or get another and start over. If you try to reattach it you’ll get some sand in the stickum, and that’s not good. 

[Bill Whalen]

Thanks, Mike!! Heat gun and pliers to pull it off? Acetone to remove the residue? And sand if necessary?

Thanks again,

Bill

[mhabich]

Yeah, something like that.  As little heat as possible, and do a test spot with acetone first.  3M makes a good adhesive and wax remover too, perhaps less aggressive than acetone.  Patience...

[Bill Whalen]

Very good. Thank you, Mike!

[Pintail]

...and if you intend to replace the existing strip, Bill, why don't you make small V-shaped incisions in the new tape where the curvature is at its greatest, so that you obviate the likelihood of that "lifting" effect, where the strip cannot make good contact with your hull (your <boat's> hull -- not yours!)?  I guess you can visualize exactly what I mean?

Edited May 15, 2023 by Pintail

[Bill Whalen]

Thanks for the suggestions!

Bill

[Bill Whalen]

I was able to peel off the keel strip without much effort. Scraped most of the adhesive of with razor, and then was able to get the reminder of with WD40 and a rag.

I appreciate the advice and suggestions.

 

[alcoons]

I have successfully removed my old KeelEazy strips and replaced them with a new ones as the FAQ suggested at the KeelEazy Site (https://www.keeleazy.com), "Simply apply a little heat with a hairdryer or heat gun and peel it off. Then clean the surface with Alcohol to remove any trace of the adhesive residue."

I have also have followed Pintails suggestion to "make small V-shaped incisions in the new tape where the curvature is at its greatest so that you obviate the likelihood of that "lifting" effect."  I have done this multiple times on my old and new Cetus hulls. It is particular important due to their tight radius curves in the transition to the bow and stern. It does take some practice to make the correct cut.  Make sure that IF it ends up overlapping you put down the stern flap before the bow flap so there is less friction. #7 on the Installation Instructions (same URL) says, "Acute Angles and Corners: To go around a sharp corner, you may need to make a notch or scallop at the apex of the corner to go around the corner. If you make a flap, be sure the leading edge goes over the other so that it won’t catch when moving your boat."

Below is my best none-overlapping notch after some use. Overlaps are hard to make smooth. Maybe there is an expert in the club that can provide better suggestions.

[Dan Foster]

I've never tried this, but I may have to do a similar procedure on a canoe soon.

I'd probably lay down a strip of paper or cardstock to act as a removable template. Fold the overlap, unfold and trim until it's nearly perfect, and then lay that down on your KeelEasy strip to use as a cutting template. Then start applying from there and work your way toward both ends, stern first.