Rope skeg rope

[Jim Snyder]

Any suggestions for best rope on a 98 vintage NDK rope skeg? I replaced the braided 2 or 3mm cord that was on it because it seemed almost too thin to catch in the cleat. The thicker braid I replaced it with generates too much friction in the pass through to the skeg box and it is reluctant to deploy. I may just put the skinny one back...

[Paul Sylvester]

Hardware stores sell small engine pull start rope in a couple sizes. It has always been fine for me.

[josko]

You can splice thin line into one the right size for the cleat. West Marine can do it for you if you don't do splices.

[Jim Snyder]

27 minutes ago, josko said:

You can splice thin line into one the right size for the cleat.

I did think of that but trying to keep it simple. I also thought of getting a new cleat because the thin line works so well otherwise.

2 hours ago, Paul Sylvester said:

Hardware stores sell small engine pull start rope

I've replaced my share of starter ropes but I'm thinking that is more of a cotton product.

[Paul Sylvester]

23 hours ago, Jim Snyder said:

 

I've replaced my share of starter ropes but I'm thinking that is more of a cotton product.

Nylon poly weave I believe and they have lasted well for me.

[Jim Snyder]

I threaded in some paracord until I get to a store and it's working surprisingly well.

[Jim Snyder]

I'm getting this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QK17C0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JHUUPV3ODEZ3&psc=1

In a pinch it will also work in my speargun?

[Jim Snyder]

My 3.5 mm kevlar arrived and it looks perfect. Interestingly but not surprising you can't heat seal the ends. I mixed up a drop of epoxy to seal one end and will do it again after fitting the cord. I should have enough to do three skegs if anyone needs some.

[josko]

Kevlar is notoriously slippery in cleats. Is this stuff any different?

[Jim Snyder]

3 hours ago, josko said:

Kevlar is notoriously slippery in cleats.

Now he tells me. I'll report tomorrow, the boat's been out in the rain all day and I didn't want to get damp...

[Jim Snyder]

I tied it in and it seems to be working well. It doesn't have the slight stretch that other cords I have used do which seems to keep tension on the cleat and help keep it in place. I got curious in general about Kevlar and did some reading. Apparently it degrades somewhat in direct sunlight. SKUK has this to say:

Replace old rear rope skeg

Category: Replacements

The rope can be replaced with any rope that works in the cleat. We use 4 mm nylon. Kevlar strengthened produces the best results.

 

We'll see what happens. Heading out to paddle.

[Jim Snyder]

Still having problems with this skeg so I took it all apart. There seemed to be too much friction for the bungee to pull the blade down. There's a 1 3/6 plastic axle that is a friction fit in the slot in the skeg box. The blade has a 1 3/16 hole in it. The question is, is the axle supposed to turn in the slot, or is the blade supposed to rotate on the axle. I decided that if I were designing this thing, I would want the blade to rotate on the axle. It may have done so 22 years ago but now was just too tight. With Tom Bergh's encouragement, I drilled the blade out to 1 1/4. It seems to be working fine in the basement, we'll see what happens.

[Paul Sylvester]

Since the plastic used is soft is there any chance you could find a harder plastic flat washer to act as a bearing surface? Would there be room side to side for something added? The surfaces appear rough and something to reduce the resistance? 

  Don't think I have used my explorer skeg years.. Boat edges great. 

[Jim Snyder]

49 minutes ago, Paul Sylvester said:

Since the plastic used is soft is there any chance you could find a harder plastic flat washer to act as a bearing surface? Would there be room side to side for something added? The surfaces appear rough and something to reduce the resistance? 

Drilling out the blade made all the difference. I did try a smaller diameter bungee because I wanted to replace it and that's all I had. It might get caught between the big washer or the blade and the housing and gum things up, we'll see. I don't use it that much either but I might now that I know it's working.

My conversation with Tom Bergh was interesting. He says he loves these old rope skegs for their reliability, especially because they rarely get stuck down. Imagine getting caught in a hard west wind and being unable to turn your boat back into it. Nothing to stop you before Portugal. I suppose if your pull up rope failed the only way to get the skeg up would be to rig some kind of belt or get your friend to try to break it off...

[Inverseyourself]

On 10/14/2020 at 9:42 AM, Jim Snyder said:

I got curious in general about Kevlar and did some reading. Apparently it degrades somewhat in direct sunlight.

Downside of Carbon-Kevlar boats. But then, I assume that most who spend the $$$$ on it store it inside and don’t paddle on sunny days ?

[Pintail]

<Imagine getting caught in a hard west wind and being unable to turn your boat back into it. Nothing to stop you before Portugal>

In that case, Jim, may I suggest the sculling-for-support manoevre?  One stroke is invariably stronger than the other (direction-wise, I mean) and whilst you are lying down on your side, deep in the water, sculling over your head, your boat will then gradually turn <away> from Portugal (or France) and thereafter you may continue on your pleasant way...!!  Oh, and may I also suggest cutting out the entire skeg-box and throwing it all away -- result: no more problem with jamming rope or stones catching in the slot after you have glassed the resulting open hole over...perhaps you will even gain an extra 1/4 knot to your average speed due to your now-improved drag coefficient!  ;^))

Yours, eternally in jest (or am I?), CG (who also doesn't need no stinking skeg, in any case!)

Edited November 29, 2020 by Pintail

[SeaKayakNE]

Steady Andy! I just bought a clear Carbon Kevlar Volan which lives outside and will be paddled in just about everything.  Most boats these days have gelcoat mixed with duratech which has a UV protectant in it, as long as properly cared for no UV damage should occur.  Additionally the occasional wipe down with 303 will protect from UV.

UPDATE:  P&H is not using one of these gelcoat additives listed above, however P&H has assured that polyester gelcoat offers more then enough UV protection. 
I do know a few surfski manufactures, stellar and epic are using these additives, however most of those are a epoxy based system.  Regardless I would be all that concerned with carbon Kevlar being stored in direct sunlight just try to keep it shaded and use 303 every few months.

 

Edited December 4, 2020 by jonathanoltz

[Paul Sylvester]

17 hours ago, jonathanoltz said:

Steady Andy! I just bought a clear Karbon Kevlar Volan which lives outside and will be paddled in just about everything.  Most boats these days have gelcoat mixed with duratech which has a UV protectant in it, as long as properly cared for no UV damage should occur.

Earlier skis and racing kayaks did not have uv protection and it was/is common to see people bag their boats once they get OTW.  edited to be OTW= OFF the water

Edited November 30, 2020 by Paul Sylvester

[Jim Snyder]

This is disturbing because I LIKE PADDLING IN THE SUN! Not to mention this thread has been hijacked but that's ok. Maybe someone ten years from now will find some tips on fixing up their skeg.

[Ralf]

Hi, I realize this is an old thread, but here goes anyways... I just bought an old Explorer with the rope skeg. My problem is there was no bungee cord attached so I'm a bit blind as to how it operates. I see there are two holes in the skeg close together. One has the rope to the deck and the other I assume is for the bungee cord. Is that correct?

Thanks and appreciation.

[Jim Snyder]

The rear two holes are for the pull up rope. You go through one then the other, which has a countersink recess to accommodate the knot. The bungee is looped through the forward hole and both ends are trapped under the center deck fitting. 

[Ralf]

Thanks Jim, I can only see the two rear holes. How do you access the front hole? Dismantle the blade?

Thanks.

[Jim Snyder]

The whole assembly slides down and out if there's enough slack in the rope. It may take some force if it hasn't been removed in a while. If you can pull it down about 1 1/2" you will see the forward hole. If it doesn't pivot freely on its axle you'll need to pull the whole thing out to work on it. 

[Ralf]

Jim Snyder you are a superstar.

[Jim Snyder]

Aw shucks.

Let me invite you to become a member, it's cheap! Also show us a picture of your new explorer.