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Drakes Estero / Point Reyes, CA (BASK club trip)


Joseph Berkovitz

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I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area this week to visit family. While out here, I thought it would be fun to take a trip with our older-sister sea kayaking club BASK (Bay Area Sea Kayakers), founded in 1986. So I joined up as an out of state member a couple of weeks ago and signed up for yesterday's Thursday Lunch Paddle, a regular midweek BASK trip that's been going for about 10 years. With the generous help of Danny, the trip initiator, it turned out to be pretty easy to find a club member who could lend me a boat -- all I needed was to bring my gear on the plane.

The locations for these paddles vary. This one was on Drakes Estero, a relatively shallow estuary that reaches deep into the scenic Point Reyes National Seashore. It is very rich in marine life thanks to the fertile eelgrass habitat carpeting the bottom. Birds, seals and fish abound. As part of the Phillip Burton Wilderness, Drakes Estero is one of only two marine wilderness areas in the National Parks system. The other one is in Alaska.

Our 7.5 nm round-trip began near the head of Schooner Bay, one of the several arms of the Estero that reach into Point Reyes.

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Arriving at the put-in, a parking lot by the estuary 1/4 mile down a dirt road, the Greeting Committee was out in force. (Yes, ranching does take place on leased areas within this "wilderness". The put-in itself was formerly the site of a successful commercial oyster farm that was recently removed after NPS declined to renew their permit to operate -- a very contentious affair that divided the community. Opinion aside, the oyster farm apparently did have a substantial footprint in terms of metal racks, plastic waste, motor boats, etc. which have all now been removed)

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Folks gathered in a mood of pleasant anticipation and camaraderie that reminded me of our club back home.  People were greeted. A club waiver was signed. The cool, mild weather reminded me that it had been 5 F on the day of our departure from Boston. The day was bright - temperatures in the low 50s, wind < 5 knots (although it blew against us in both directions), high tide around 1 pm. The tide timing for this trip was important, as at lower tides the estero flats out and becomes hellishly muddy.

After a quick beach briefing and safety reminder we set off down towards the mouth of the estuary. Swells were forecast at 6 feet @ 14 seconds, and the ebb would be beginning around the time of our arrival at the mouth, so people weren't in mind to get out past the breakers into the open ocean. Helmets were left behind. It would be a mellow paddle.

In Home Bay (the finger just to the east of our main route) we stopped to look at a WWII plane propeller lodged in the mud and sticking up from the water, the remnant of a practice bombing run that went awry long ago. The water here was murky with nutrients from the eelgrass and the many critters living in it; bits of eelgrass kept getting churned up on our decks.

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We continued on up the estuary. The water became clearer and long strands of kelp began to replace the eelgrass. Harbor seals swam by, and an osprey launched from the south-facing cliffs above us, which were lit by the brilliant light. We turned the corner just north of the mouth into the adjacent Estero de Limantour:

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I briefly branched off with another club member to explore the area just inside of the surf breaking on the sandbars just outside the estero's mouth. Most of the energy was being dissipated but there were some nice mini-rides to be had. I would have wanted my helmet with me to go further; it seemed quite possible to find one's way out to the ocean on this day with relative safety. However, the ebb current had not set up yet.

A beautiful, inaccessible beach awaited us for lunch, nestled among cliff faces and looking out at the barrier of Limantour Spit:

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Our return to the launch site was relaxed. The wind had shifted 180 degrees during lunch, to the north, so we were paddling back into it, but it was nothing much. More relaxed conversation and time in the beautiful open space of the estero. Then some hanging out and conversing after the boats and gear were put away. A marine layer began to form over the water as the sun grew lower. Time for the long drive back through the hills of Marin.

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So... if you find yourself in the Bay Area, I highly recommend joining up with BASK and going for a trip. You will have a great time on the water with a great bunch of people!

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Nice report!

A family member was considering taking a ranger job at Point Reyes National Seashore a few years back, and so I immediately started scouting kayaking options in case I ever got to visit. It's nice to know there's a friendly kayak club in the area!

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