Baffin Bay Skin on Frame Build

[Jim Snyder]

After a lot of time spent trolling the internet for ideas I decided to build a Baffin Bay greenland kayak from plans sold by Dave Gentry at http://gentrycustomboats.com/BaffinBay.html. This is a "fuselage" style construction where engineererd plywood frames hold gunwales, chines, and keel in place, eliminating the need for bending, other than a little prebending of the gunwales. My other deviation is strictly for comfort and safety, using a keyhole cockpit and elevating the front deck slightly for more legroom. I will post photos and comments here as construction progresses, and am open to suggestions and questions.

I decided to start with the cockpit first because modifications I made there would affect other parts of the build. All the plywood parts are from a sheet of 12 mm okoume bs 1088 plywood from http://www.boulterplywood.com/MarinePlywood_4.htm. I roughly copied the dimensions of my Zephyr cockpit which is very comfortable for me. I left a lot of wood in the thigh area which I can later trim back if I want to. I set it up on buckets and boxes and climbed in for a test fit:

I continued cutting frames. I used the band saw as much as possible but some cuts could only be done with a jig saw.

When I had the frames immediately in front of and behind the cockpit cut I set them up for another test fit.

I see I'm still having trouble getting pictures to load so I'll try to figure that out.

 

Edited November 26, 2017 by Jim Snyder

[Jim Snyder]

Here are the pictures from the previous post. I found that if I resized them under 1meg they would load.

 

 

I'm continuing to cut the plywood frames. Soon I will shop for wood for the five long pieces, two gunwales, two chines, and a keel. These can be cut from an 18' piece of clear vertical grain cedar. I'm cheap though and that piece of cedar costs almost $200. I know I can find a piece of spruce framing good enough to make these pieces as I am a builder. It will be stronger, cheaper, and only add about 2 pounds overall.

 

[prudenceb]

It will be fun to see your progress, Jim.  I'm awed by anyone who can build a beautiful boat!

Prudence

[Jim Snyder]

Frames all cut. The bandsaw is in an unheated building so glad to have all the bandsaw work done.

I realized that even though the cockpit I had cut out was very close to the Zephyr, it was looking flat without the graceful arch of that cockpit. So I tried to glue some arch into my plywood glue-up. I'll leave it clamped up until tomorrow.

[Jim Snyder]

I'm pretty satisfied with how this turned out although I would do a couple things differently if I did it again.

Not quite as much arch as the Zephyr but I think it's fine. Much more might make it hard to attach the fabric.

[David M]

Jim,

Thanks so much for posting your progress.  As a non-woodworker it's intriguing to watch it take shape.

[Inverseyourself]

Awesome! That cockpit rim alone looks like a piece of art. I don’t watch any series on TV - watching you build your boat over the winter will do it for me!

[Jim Snyder]

I was wrong about finding a piece of spruce good enough so I went to a specialty supplier in Manchester NH. I settled on using old growth Western Hemlock. It's clear, straight grained, and only slightly heavier than cedar, and substantially stronger.

Figuring out how to rip and plane 18' lumber in my basement was a bit of a trick but the long pieces are all made.

[Jim Snyder]

Starting to look like a boat.

[Jim Snyder]

I'm laminating two pieces of 3/4 X 7/8 stock to glue the bend into the gunwales.

I had a momentary panic thinking about the route necessary to get the boat out of the basement but I think I'm okay.

Edited December 10, 2017 by Jim Snyder

[Jim Snyder]

Frame released from it's sawhorses. Right now all joints are screwed but I intend to lash them when my sinew arrives. I need to make some adjustments to the keel but I'm pretty happy with how it's coming along. Weight of frame so far is just over 22 lbs.

[Jim Snyder]

First test fitting. So far so good.

[Jim Snyder]

Started lashing. I thought I was going to hate this part but I find it strangely enjoyable.

 

[Jim Snyder]

Frame is complete and I'm test fitting flotation. The frames make it difficult and I think I will add some solid flotation also. I'm trying to decide whether to install footpegs or try some foam blocks on the frame in front of my feet. Also trying to decide whether to remove most of the stainless steel screws at the lashed joints. Any input on any of these topics is welcome. Total weight at this point is 27 pounds.

[Brian Nystrom]

On my traditional-construction SOFs, I install a simple pulley system at each end that allows me to pull float bags in and out of the boat. It consists of:

• Dowels at the front and rear stems that serve as pulleys
• A loop of cord at each end that runs down the center of the boat, over the dowel and returns under the ribs
• Clips attached to the cord that clip to loops on each end of the float bags, so they can be pulled in both directions

With the relatively small holes in some of your frames, it will be challenging to do this. If it was my boat, I'd use a jigsaw to increase the size of the openings, leaving ~1" thickness around the periphery of the frames. That shouldn't compromise the strength of the boat.

I would also strongly advise that you seal the frames with epoxy and/or varnish, especially edges. They may be marine plywood, but only means that the glue is water-resistant. The wood will still soak up water and swell, compromising it's integrity. If used in fresh water, it will mildew and eventually rot (salt water, OTOH, tends to preserve wood).

As for the screws, the damage is already done (the screw holes) and removing them will probably only save a few ounces, so I don't see a significant advantage to doing so. Leaving them in place should also help to reduce water intrusion into the end-grain wood in the holes.

[Jim Snyder]

Thanks for your input Brian. I have installed stainless steel clevises at each stem but I'm not sure yet they will work as well as I hoped. I might try the dowel. Seems like you have to think everything through and be committed before you sew it up. The frames are already at about 1 1/2" and I have been wondering if they're strong enough as it is. I don't think it would be practical to alter them without removing them one at a time. I think the best thing is to keep from flooding the boat in the first place, hopefully it will be an easy roll!

[Jim Snyder]

I'm anticipating my fabric arriving soon and am trying to make sure I've done everything that will be impossible to do later. I intend to install perimeter deck lines as a compromise to safety over tradition and am trying to source fittings that will install securely in the gunwales after sewing. I also want to make sure I have a way to secure either a euro paddle or a greenland as a spare and can't figure out a way to do the greenland. It would be easier if I made a storm paddle but if things went badly enough to need the spare I might be happier with a full paddle. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[Brian Nystrom]

Go to www.qajaqusa.org and check out the galleries, videos and forums.

[Jim Snyder]

Thanks Brian, Looks like storm paddle on the foredeck is the most common solution there. It'll give me a project while I'm snowed in.

[Brian Nystrom]

That's definitely the case and I always carry one. I've only needed it a couple of times, but I really needed it and things would have gotten ugly if I hadn't had it handy.

[Inverseyourself]

Elaborate, please, Brian. Great day for good stories, even short ones!

[Jim Snyder]

Hey this is my thread! Just kidding, I'd enjoy the story too. I found a cedar 2 X 4 that had been leaning against the barn for 10 years at least. Still sound. I'm drying it out to start a storm paddle.

[Inverseyourself]

Oops! Sorry Jim! Sorry about my little hijack!

[Brian Nystrom]

The more interesting of the two incidents - and the one I remember most vividly - occurred while playing in a rock garden. I rode a large swell into a hole that was just long enough for the boat and ~6' wide. I found myself trapped  there with the boat broached to the incoming waves, while I waited for a large enough swell to allow me paddle out again. The bow of the boat kept sliding under a ledge and when the water level dropped, the boat cantilevered over a rock that was ~5' from the bow. At one point I hear a loud crunch and figured I had just broken the bow and was likely taking on water. I was getting hit repeatedly by waves that were smacking me around pretty hard, but weren't lifting me high enough to allow me to paddle out of the hole. At one point, a wave tore my paddle from my grasp and capsized me. I pulled the storm paddle off the foredeck and rolled up (something I had practiced, BTW). A wave or two later, I was able to retrieve my regular paddle and stow the storm back on the deck. Shortly thereafter, the swell I needed finally arrived and I managed to extricate myself. There was a crushed spot along the keel line, but the boat was otherwise intact and only leaking slowly fortunately. I had a float bag in the bow compartment, so I wasn't too concerned about the leakage and it didn't cause any problems on the way home.

The bottom line is that if I hadn't had the storm paddle handy, I would have had to wet exit while in a narrow hole with a flooded kayak bouncing around in it, with no good options for getting out. It could have gotten really ugly, both for me and anyone trying to help.

[Inverseyourself]

Nasty spot you were in, Brian. That’s also why I practice my 1/2 (Euro) paddle rolls during pool sessions. Don’t you just hate it when you hear the crunchies!?