Skeg cable repair

[jwhipple]

This question focuses on the wire skeg cable and slider knob on my NDK Explorer. Thanks probably in part to my coaxing a stuck skeg (Maine mud), it appears that the cable slipped sternward within its metal sheath past the slider knob; as a result the skeg hung down vertically (when slider knob back) and wouldn't retract fully (when slider knob forward). It's as if the cable were 4-5 inches longer, which makes me think the cable slipped past the slider knob which (as I understand it) is supposed to hold it tight.

Using an allen wrench through the hole in the slider knob, I loosened the knob and then used pliers to pull the front end of the cable forward in its metal sheath, to the point where the cable seems to be the right length again -- i.e., when the slider knob is forward, the skeg is retracted. But now I can't get the slider knob to re-tighten against the cable (the allen wrench doesn't seem to be accomplishing anything), so the cable slips back again if I try to use the slider to raise/lower the skeg.

(NB: There is a mild bend, but not really a kink, in the cable about an inch above the skeg, but it doesn't seem bad enough to be the cause of the problem.)

Any experience/thoughts on how to deal with this would be appreciated. Is there a trick to tightening the slider knob? I can paddle the boat with the skeg fully retracted, but obviously it would be best to get full function back.

Thanks in advance ...

Judy

[Gcosloy]

Judy,

The slider knob screw needs to be inserted into an oval shaped hole in the metal sheath. The problem is that the sheath may have rotated a bit while you were trying to move the cable and when you tightened the screw it missed the hole and tightened against the metal sheath and not the cable inside. Here is what I would do: With the skeg fully retracted place a shim so it can't descend (a small stone or twig will do). Now loosen the slider knob set screw and holding the metal sheath in place with a pair of needle nose pliers slide the knob towards the stern so you may observe the location of the oval hole. If the hole has rotated upwards or downwards use the pliers to move the hole to a position that will accept the set screw. Now move the slider knob forward so the screw in right over the hole and tighten it. (This is not speculative-I recently replaced a skeg cable in my Explorer and had exactly the same problem you encountered.)

[jwhipple]

Hi Gene -

Thanks so much for your reply -- it’s clear you know exactly what I’m talking about, and what you said makes perfect sense! So I went to my boat, followed your directions, and learned a lot -- but I didn’t get quite the same results as you. So if you don’t mind, I’d like to ask a few questions ...

First, here's what happened. After retracting and immobilizing the skeg, then turning the allen wrench in the knob more than enough to back the set screw out of the hole in the sheath, I held the sheath with pliers and tried to slide the knob along the sheath to locate the hole. But the slider knob won’t budge laterally on the sheath (it's as if the set screw were still in the hole). Actually, no amount of turning the allen wrench in either direction seems to have much effect (watching through the knob’s side hole, the set screw appears to turn, but doesn't seem to be rising or falling). Finally, after trying to tighten the set screw in the hole (it never gets really tight), I freed the skeg and tried sliding the knob back and forth. It works okay for the first two inches, but if I slide the knob any further, the cable starts slipping inside the sheath.

These results make me think that the set screw may actually be in the hole (at least partially), and that I can't properly tighten/loosen it (stripped threads, maybe?) But I don't trust this conclusion. Based on your own experience, do you think I’m still missing the hole? Or that there's something else at play?

Because I can’t slide the knob to see the hole, could you tell me exactly where the hole is located on your boat? As you can see in the picture, my knob is halfway between two notches in the sheath, and the knob’s top and side holes are aligned directly over those notches. Logically, the hole would be centered halfway between the notches and on the same plane with them -- which means the knob is correctly positioned. But perhaps your sheath's hole wasn’t located there? Also, you said the hole is oval: is the longer side of the oval aligned with the sheath, or does it run across it? (My knob won't budge forward or back on the sheath, but has a limited amount of rotational play around the sheath, so I’m wondering if the oval's long side goes across the sheath.)

And regarding the cable slippage, maybe the set screw isn't grabbing it tightly enough. But I also wonder if there are contributing factors at the front and back ends of the cable. At the front end (forward of the slider box, inside the cockpit), the ends of my cable and sheath are just loose, there's nothing there to prevent the cable moving in the sheath; maybe there's something I can do here to prevent slippage? And at the skeg end, there is a slight bend (not really a kink) in the cable an inch or two above the skeg. It doesn't look like a significant bend, but I have no experience with this -- perhaps it's putting added strain on the cable, contributing to the slippage under the knob?

That's everything I can think of (in more than enough words). I'd be grateful for any and all thoughts you may have ... thanks!

Judy

knob.pdf

Edited September 1, 2014 by jwhipple

[Gcosloy]

Judy,

My speculation at this time is that the set screw may have stripped the plastic in the slider knob. Also my slider knob and sheath are different from yours. NDK has changed these parts over time. It may be that your slider knob is fixed in position over the hole-you could try some wd-40 or even penetrating oil and see if that helps sliding it. At this point if all else fails I'd send your original post and picture to Tom Berg at MIKco and perhaps he can suggest something else or provide you with replacement parts if you need them.

[jwhipple]

Thanks for all your input, Gene! Though I'm sorry to hear you're inclined to agree with the "stripped" hypothesis -- was kinda hoping you'd come up with a miracle cure. But alas, it looks as if some replacement parts are in the boat's future. Meanwhile, I seem to have minimal skeg function, but that's better than nothing.

Judy

[jason]

Thanks for all your input, Gene! Though I'm sorry to hear you're inclined to agree with the "stripped" hypothesis -- was kinda hoping you'd come up with a miracle cure. But alas, it looks as if some replacement parts are in the boat's future. Meanwhile, I seem to have minimal skeg function, but that's better than nothing.

Judy

If it's stripped it should able to be re-drilled and tapped with a new larger thread.

[jwhipple]

Thanks, Jason -- good to know that's an option if a replacement knob isn't available. But more than likely, doing as you suggest (or replacing the knob, for that matter) is beyond my competence. I'll probably limp through the rest of this season with minimal skeg function, while figuring out next steps for dealing with it.

[nancysan]

$70, two days at New England Small Craft got me a new cable in my North Shore Atlantic LV in July. Mine was gone...

[jason]

Thanks, Jason -- good to know that's an option if a replacement knob isn't available. But more than likely, doing as you suggest (or replacing the knob, for that matter) is beyond my competence. I'll probably limp through the rest of this season with minimal skeg function, while figuring out next steps for dealing with it.

You might give a call to Carl ( http://ospreyseakayak.com/ ) and ask him about it. if you time it right you might be able to drop it off tour around RI for a bit and pick it up on the way home.

[jwhipple]

Nancy and Jason, thanks for your input. Once the season is over, I'll contact the folks you (and Gene) suggested and see what results. And maybe I'll remember to post an update with said results, to close out this topic ...

Judy

[nancysan]

Joel has fixed several cables for me over the years at NESC. If he says he can't get to it soon, believe him (and don't leave the boat), but if you catch him during a slow period, he's pretty knowledgeable for basic stuff on a variety of boats. He doesn't overcharge, so that's a big plus.