Replacing a skeg cable on an NDK Explorer

[Gcosloy]

I wanted a bit more down skeg for big conditions and managed to let the cable slide back thru the slider tube. I pulled the cable out from the skeg box and since both ends were frayed could not thread it back thru again. I obtained a new cable 1/8" D which is what I had and thought briefly of getting a 3/32" to make installation easier but fearing kinking under compression I reserved that idea for "when all else fails". Tom Berg said that threading a new cable from the front slider was easier than going the stern route. My new cable was cut neatly on both ends thru some tape so the ends were compact and shouldn't prove much of a problem. I removed the tape on one side carefully and candle waxed the end to help against fraying. While I did succeed I ran into three snags: An inch from the front of the slider tube is a side hole where the set screw from the slider knob goes to secure the cable inside the tube. Moving the slider knob away the cable when meeting this sideways exit tried desperately to climb into the hole ceasing forward progress. The end of a needle nose pliers inserted into the side hole prodded the cable on its way for about a foot where it now hung up inside the slider mechanism inside the boat. Gentle twisting and backing and forward eventually moved forward again. After satisfying progress of seven feet of cable I encountered the last obstacle- rising upwards over the tight curve in the rear skeg box. It just wouldn't move and I felt defeated but continued onward coaxing with twists and gentle pushing and voila the naked cable emerged on the outside! Most tasks can be easily accomplished with the right tools and step wise patience. Replacing a skeg cable however is one of those more daunting tasks that requires in addition a leap of faith-keep trying and it will all come out in the end! I avoided a trip back to Peak's Island which I'm sure would have been more fun!

Edited July 26, 2014 by GCosloy

[Brian Nystrom]

There are two things you could have done differently that would have made the installation much easier. The one that would have had the most impact is to taper the end that you're threading into the housing. I typically use a Dremel tool with a stone or sanding drum to round the end so it can slide through the housing smoothly. Once that's done, an application of Super Glue will keep the strands together during the installation process.

As for the cable size, it's possible that the original is 3mm in diameter, which is slightly smaller than 1/8". Although the size difference seems minor, it can have a substantial impact on the amount of friction in the system. I've found that in some cases, 3/32" cable is actually less likely to kink that the stiffer 1/8" cable, simply because it slides through the housing with much less friction and effort, whether it's when you're adjusting it with the slider or when the skeg hits something and gets pushed upward.

[jason]

Should we make a kayak repair sub forum to store items of information such as this. I don't most people know that they should use 3mm or 3/32" skeg cable.

[Gcosloy]

Brian,

Thanks for the tips. The most significant is probably how to keep the lead end from fraying. !/8" and 3/32" cable are available at many Marine supply houses. I'm wondering if 3mm is more difficult to obtain. !/8" = 3.1750mm. That's about 7 thousands of an inch larger or 0.0068898" I can't imagine how that could make a difference in this application. But if you have noticed a difference I'll concede to your experience. If I kink in the future I'll try your theory about less friction from 3/32".

[Brian Nystrom]

I haven't seen 3mm cable in stores in the US, so it's probably a case where you'd have to order an OEM replacement cable in order to get it, or perhaps order bulk cable online. However, I've never done that and have had good performance from the bulk 1x19 cable from local marine suppliers, in either 1/8" or 3/32", depending on the boat. Whether the minor diameter difference between 1/8" and 3mm matters depends on the inner diameter of the housing used and the tightness of the bends in the system. The closer the housing fits the cable and the sharper the bends are, the more friction there will be in the system and the greater the effect that diameter and stiffness differences will have. In systems where there is generous clearance between the cable and housing and the bends are minimal, it isn't likely to make a difference. Also keep in mind that there will be salt and grit accumulation in the system over time that effective reduces clearances and increases friction.