konstantin_art

Hello Les, Did you have a chance to see what is under my skirt, the last time we paddled together in Maine? I always encourage people to do so (for the sake of sharing useful information). You never know what you are going to find in/on someone’s kayak! Did you see that wide “Black Textured Tape” under my heels? The one shaped like capital “T”? I found this self-adhesive tape to be the best heel-rubbing-protection solution so far. Much better than the dual-density “Padz” heel pads (mentioned in the post above). Any neoprene pad raises your center of gravity, impedes size 16 foot placement (especially in low-volume kayaks), and wears out fairly fast. You end up with a nice hole right down to the hull –especially under your dominant leg. And then replacement is messy –all this glue on the self-adhesive bottom. So, here is my solution (most likely borrowed from underneath someone else’s skirt) ;-) The “Trimbrite Body Guard” –Black Textured self-adhesive tape (look at the bottom right of this PDF file –looks the same as in the photo, except it is black, textured and thinner (thus easier to apply then the transparent one). http://www.trimbrite.com/PDFs/TB1415.pdf You can find it at “AutoBarn.com”, or “Amazon”, etc. Warning! Even though this is a self-adhesive tape (with pretty strong glue) I found out, from personal experience, that it is much better to glue the tape with “Contact Cement” (the Red Can Gel-type one is easier to work with, and truly waterproof). You apply the contact cement to your repaired hull AND on top of the self-adhesive bottom of the black tape. Sure, the tape will soften a bit and become more stretchy (take care when applying it), but the resulting bond to the hull will withstand a lot of heel rubbing without the tape bunching up or getting holed. The finely textures Plastic tape will also help with heel traction. As opposed to the “No-Skid Steps Tape” that is pure sand-paper that will eat your kayaking shoes (and sharpen your stilettos, to make them even more formidable weapons). Message to the “Cushioned Heel” proponents: “Buy Kayak Booties a size bigger (or not, for the 0.5mm sock) and wear a thin (or winter thick) “Neoprene Sock” under the booties! This provides instant cushioning even if you place your feet outside the “heel-pads”, or change kayaks. Add to this the benefits of warmer feet and less water sloshing around your bare (or bear) feet.” That’s all from me, for now. Good luck with your repair. Dear Les, if you want to return the “favor” you could post a description (preferably with accompanying Photos), of your ingenious “Rear-Deck-Mounted Towing System”. I forgot the particulars of this interesting concept. Other people might find it useful as well. Just a suggestion! You don’t need to “return” anything! Just smiles! :-) Yours, Konstantin

I HAVE to attend! “You don’t have to!” Oh, but I do! Konstantin

Hello Phil, If you really care about your paddle you will carry it with you on the plane. This is the smart (and recommended) approach when you don’t want your important gear to get damaged, lost or delayed in transit to your destination. It applies to all kind of travel, not only kayaking. Let’s take alpine skiing as an example. If you check-in all your skiing equipment (besides your skis) and it gets lost, or delayed what do you do when you get to The Rockies or the Alps? You have to rent stinky ski boots (that will never feel right), rent used clothing, gloves, goggles, etc. “Yuk!” (This was you grimacing). Or, you can spend a few thousand dollars in the local resort ski shop and buy all new, but your choice will be limited and you will be making compromises just to get by for 2 weeks. “Ouch!” (This was your pocket talking). On the other hand, you can rent decent skis (after you request a good sharpening and a wax) and be happy. The pair of skis might be even better than yours (the ones that did not show up on the carousel). The difference here is that you can not easily and promptly replace on the spot your customized and well fitting ski gear. Your ski boots are, in a sense, more important for your skiing then the skis itself. Much in that same way that it’s said that your paddle is more important than your kayak. The one time I checked-in my ski boots and the rest of my ski gear, everything not only arrived 3 days later, but my ski boots showed up with a broken buckle. Phil, apply all this to kayaking and you are golden! Now the question –can you take a 2-piece paddle as a carry-on luggage? Sure you can. Even though I haven’t done it myself, I have carried a carbon fiber photographic tripod (with a metal ball-head attached) all over the world. I carry it in a soft padded tripod bag which I put in the overhead compartments behind the rest of the carry-on suitcases, bags, chicken cages and the like (largely dependent on the destination). The tripod bag is of such a low profile that it barely takes any space. A 210cm two-part “big spoon” (“Ikelos”) paddle is about the same length as my tripod bag. The handle part is much thinner and the blade section is bout 2 inches wider –a barely perceptible difference overall. I don’t see any reason why you shouldn’t be able to take it aboard the plane. I have taken my tripod (in a bag) plus the appropriate size carry-on luggage (with my photo gear inside, of course) using numerous carriers with success. Everything passes through the X-Ray, no questions asked. The tripod does not even count as a carry-on. So, Phil, you can still carry your backpack (with the all important kayaking gear) and your purse. Sorry, you have to check-in the I-pad/laptop briefcase, dude. Part of your pre-trip homework should include answering the following 2 questions: 1. Is this particular piece of gear that I want to bring allowed by this airline carrier(s), or not (think flares, stove fuel, etc)? 2. Is any particular gear that I care about (read crucial) replaceable (easily or at all) once I get to my (hopefully) exotic remote destination? After answering these 2 questions you would know what to do. And remember, why would you need to protect the paddles in a heavy (read extra fee) hard-shell golf bag, when you can protect them naked (no padding) even better (and in person) in the airplane’s overhead bin. Phil, have a great and safe trip and please don’t tell us where you are going (until you came back, in the true NSPN style), so that you don’t jinks it, or we don’t start begging you to come along, or something like that! Greetings, Konstantin

Scott, I will be there. Konstantin

Mister Duke, I have several Werner carbon-fiber paddles with the old and the new ferrule system (including the Ikelos). Before we can help you, you need to answer a few questions. 1. Duke of what? What European court and country? This is in order for us (the mere mortals on this forum) to address you in the proper manner. 2. What kind of play are you talking about? What axis? Is it rotational (twisting) play, or bending at the joint, or pulling the two halves apart (while still locked)? Please feel free to use as many words as possible to describe exactly and vividly the type of paddle play that bothers you. Respectfully, Konstantin

Dear John, Thank you for the sound scientific knowledge that you shared with us coupled with the contagious energy of your presentation, some mooning, some home-made soy sauce and, most importantly, good timing. The timing is always good for learning something new or hearing something familiar but from a different perspective. A sensory overload that I am still sorting out. It was great to see some genuinely friendly faces among the genuinely reserved (but, oh so important) ones. And the food, of course, was of a church festival caliber. Konstantin

I would like to attend. And yes, the topics of weather and celestial bodies’ interaction are complex enough to not want to “contaminate” them with boat and paddle design. In the larger scheme of things everything is related (even a butterfly in China can mess with your roll), but there is enough to talk about weather and tides for 4 hours. It’s far preferable to delve into one topic than skim the surface of several ones. But that’s just my style of teaching and learning. Others may disagree. It’s ultimately up to the lecturer’s discretion, whom I thank in advance for his time, expertise, and most of all willingness to share. Billy-Bob

Hello Peter, First of all, thank you for volunteering to share your experience and giving a heads up without being expressly asked in some already open topic–in the true spirit of selflessly helping the paddling community. One way to make your hatches 100% waterproof is to install compression bungee cord on them. This is what I did with my 3 “NDK Explorer HV” hatch covers (2 big Round rubber “old style” Kajaksport and 1 stiff Valley day-hatch cover) before I even put the boat in the water. A double loop of bungee cord (a folded figure 8) finished with a symmetrical knot). The beauty of using a knot and not metal clamps and shrink tubing is that you can retighten the bungee if it becomes too loose over time. Or, you can untie it and have a length of cord for some emergency uses –the multipurpose approach. For the Day Hatch Cover (hard Valley) I used a ¼” bungee –thicker with more compression to squeeze the hard foam to the hatch rim. For the 2 big rubber round lids I used a single loop of thinner bungee. This solution is only useful if the lid’s sidewalls have channels which would prevent the bungee to slip out. Furthermore I tether every hatch cover on the outside using a cord that attaches to the compression bungee and then to an RDF. The added benefit of such approach is that if, God forbid, I loose a hatch cover (slips somehow from the compression bungee) I can use the remaining tethered bungee loop to create a makeshift hatch cover from a trash bag or something else. It is definitely cheaper then carrying a spear hatch cover or two (of different sizes). So, Peter before you break the bank with new hatch covers maybe you can try this waterproofing system first. On a second thought, I don’t know how well a bungee will compress an oval cover –there will be uneven tension, but it is worth trying nonetheless. Oh, and next time when you guys make fun of the “small” round hatches of the NDK Explorer just remember how easy it is to put them on and off and to make them 100% waterproof. All while you are breaking your fingers struggling with the finicky oval ones. Just a friendly reminder! There you have it -my 2 ½ cents! Konstantin

Pikabike, I am not suggesting using the 303 to stave off the neck rash! 303 Aeroprotectant is used to maintain the Latex of all gaskets (keeping it supple). This is its primary function. The fact that it helps with chafing is its secondary benefit –just a coincidence. About the vicious “Body Glide†again. You DO NOT need to use it at all if you wear a flat-seamed wicking shirt between your skin and the neoprene. Wearing the neoprene next to my skin creates really nasty swollen red rashes under the armpit and shoulder areas where the Farmer John’s straps have rubbed. Wearing a thin shirt underneath prevents this. Pikabike, you say: “Ditto for chafing in the armpit/shoulder area with wetsuits. Body Glide should prevent that from happening again.†Yes, at the expense of ruining your wetsuit (and layers underneath)! It will gunk up the fabric liner of the wetsuit –it will make the fabric stiff and you can NOT wash it with normal laundry detergents (not to mention the mild ones recommended for all technical clothing). So keep promoting the damn “Body Glideâ€. Your gear –your choice. You might just make some followers very unhappy and mad at you! That’s all.

Suzie, My neck and wrist gaskets are always shiny from frequent “303 Aero Protectant†application. So there is already a barrier between the latex and whatever is on my neck or wrists. This 303 film also helps punching in and out of the gaskets. It acts as a lubricant. I do not put the “Triple Paste†to lubricate the rash prone areas –it is not applied liberally and left there. No, I am using it to waterproof the skin, so I apply and rub until it is absorbed and almost dry. After each paddle I rinse the drysuit and wipe the gaskets. So there is not much time for the adverse agents, if any, to attack the latex (if they can pass through the “303 Aero Protectant†film). Thank you for the heads up, though. Always something new to learn about drysuit maintenance. And you are a great help as usual! Konstantin

Sorry Phil, Someone in NSPN recently had a baby girl –I thought it was you. My bad! Back to the important point. Clue or not, the “Triple Paste†works for me. And does not ruin my clothes. Konstantin

Phil and the rest of the “red necksâ€, The chafing at the neck is inevitable, especially on the ocean, less so in fresh water. The salt is the culprit, leaving swollen red marks. One thing you can do to help heal the rash faster is to use the “Triple Paste†(Medicated Ointment) for baby diaper rash. You can also use it right before you put the dry suit on to “waterproof†the skin. The “Silicone Grease†only lubricates, the “Triple Paste†lubricates and heals. Phil, the rumor is that you have a baby, so there should be no problem for you and your wife to keep stealing from her tube. As for using the “Body Glide†as Johnny The Smoke suggested –this product should be banned by law in all countries where people wear clothes! Body Glide is only suitable for the tribal sportsman in the Amazonian Jungle who doesn’t risk ruining his loincloth that his sweetheart gave him for Christmas, in lieu of socks and a neck tie. For the rest of us it will ruin all clothing it comes in contact with. There is no washing off of the thick paraffin-like and stiff residue under your shirts armpits, for instance. To sum it up, “Triple Paste†–YES; “Body Glide†–HELL NO! And, yes, a “shadow†or a real beard prevents chafing for the lucky ones among us. These are just my experiences. Feel free to treat your own red necks the way you like, although I’ve heard that this condition is incurable! Greetings, Konstantin

Guys, I plan on joining you on Thursday, at 11am, Tucks Point. Konstantin

Hello Kevin, I don’t think you should wary too much about the length of your current paddle. I know the manufacturers should imprint/engrave this measurement somewhere on the paddle, but alas they don’t. At least Werner does not. You can always measure your paddle against someone else’s paddle with a known length –like me. Bent or strait shaft does not matter –the blades of two paddles with identical length should be at the same height. I suggest you try out other peoples’ paddles and determine what works for you. Focus on type of paddle (surface and geometry) and make/materials; not length. Based on your high-angle style (from what I see) you need a short paddle. The trick is that you have to determine the length yourself. Don’t go with recommendations for your height; go with what feels right in your hands. Find it and then ask the person from whom you borrowed it how long it is. Paddle length recommendations should be based NOT on person’s height (or the kayak’s width), but based on how long his torso is and how long his arms are. For example, two paddlers whose height difference is 6 inches might need the same length paddle, IF their torsos are the same length. Which translates in the taller person having freakishly long legs (some call this sexy; I call them Spiderman!). Another consideration for choosing the right length is to monitor how deep your blades are in the water during the pulling/rotation phase of your paddle stroke (at the very same time you are “reading your watch†with your upper hand). If you submerge the blade past its neck (and part of the shaft is underwater) you are wasting energy and thus you need a shorter paddle. Bottom line, don’t go by manufacturers’ recommendation; go by what feels right in your hands and what propels your kayak with the least amount of energy applied! I hope this helps. Greetings, Konstantin

Leslie, Lorrie and Deborah, Finally! Where have you been hiding all this time? I have been looking for practice partners on Walden Pond for ages! I live very close to it. This Friday (today) is my day off of paddling (tomorrow I resume). I hope we can do it sometimes very soon. I am available for weekday as well as weekend any time practice sessions. Please let me know (even with a Private Message) when you plan to go again. Even if it is a last minute decision. This message is for all of you guys and galls who can come to Walden. Greetings, Konstantin

I will be there. Conditions look good this morning. Konstantin

Michael, If you read the above post more carefully you will notice that this is exactly the reasoning and action of the anonymous “first boat†kayaker. You are both in agreement here!

Dear Fellow Paddlers, In case you want to hear the anonymous “original rescue boat†or “first boat†kayaker’s own take on this incident. I talked to him and here are his thoughts. Here it goes: • “The situation wasn’t recognized immediately as a rescue because there was a discrepancy between what we glanced at while underway and the “Help!†cries. The mother and child were just floating and not trashing in the water, so the help cries came a little disconnected from the actual visual scene. It took us just a moment before we realized that they were indeed serious and not playing around. At that point, I believe three boats headed directly toward the family. • I knew very well (from training and numerous accounts) that one should warn the swimmer NOT to attempt climbing on the rescuer’s kayak and make them AGREE with this BEFORE the kayak makes contact with them. One also warns them ahead of time that they will be whacked with the paddle if they do not cooperate with this. There were several facts, though, that made me forego this crucial point in every “proper†swimmer rescue: 1. There was a little, frightened and panicked girl in the water who wouldn’t listen to any instructions and agreements but act on survival instinct only (and I was proved right). Therefore, there was no point in trying to make a deal with her and her mother. If the mother would have agreed to cooperate the girl would have still acted the way she ultimately did. And, of course, paddle whacking was out of question. 2. “Don’t make yourself a victim!†-the adage goes. Given the fact that we were so close to the shore AND surrounded by a large group of paddlers, it was a no-brainer for me to choose to act swiftly even if I was risking of being capsized. In such a case the 3 of us would have hold onto the kayak. I would have tried to swim the “combo†to the shore, or even better -recruit someone to tow us ashore. It was more important to give the girl (especially) IMMEDIATE relief from her situation. Holding onto something stable would have prevented more water swallowing. I did not know her exact condition (or the exact nature of the emergency). All I saw were the BIG scared eyes of one little girl who needed help NOW. What would I have done if this did not happen a few meters off the shore? If there is a child involved the answer would have been the same –go give the swimmer something to hold onto. It is reassuring and potentially life saving! Whether I will remain in the boat or not is a secondary question. If I am well prepared (VHF, Cell Phone, paddling buddy or 2 or 3) I will have options for collective rescue. If the water is too cold I can put the child in the dry cockpit to save us time. Enough said. The point is to be prepared! • For those of you that did not have “the best seats in the house†and the best vantage point to see all the details –here is something that you must have missed, apparently. The poor child AND the woman (her mother) BOTH tried to climb on my front deck all from the SAME starboard side. I don’t dare to judge the reasoning of a distressed person –the mother for not using common sense to realize that this is not a catamaran but a tippy kayak. This one-sided “assault†made me work hard to stay upright. A few deep low braces did the trick miraculously. I guess I still have to work on my “sculling braces under pressureâ€. I couldn’t believe my eyes when the mother attempted climbing on the front deck. At that time I was already fighting an induced starboard edge (by the girl climbing). That is why I didn’t even attempt to counterbalance with an edge and a sculling brace on the opposite side. My paddle was already on the right side so I worked what was the fastest solution for the moment. Changing sides might have capsized me. • You do NOT talk to uncooperative, panicked “victims†with the sweet mellow voice of Morgan Freeman (that can put you to sleep). At least not in the beginning. In order to cut through the haze and tunnel vision (and mind) of a “victim†one has to speak in an assertive, authoritarian manner which includes yelling. Yes yelling. Let’s leave the “gentle manners†for gentle situations. Only after you get their attention you can adopt the “Morgan Freeman†voice. When they start acknowledging your instructions you can tone down and start comforting them while giving instructions to follow. And this is exactly what I did with the poor little girl lying like a frog on my front deck. And I saw her eyes starting to relax. It warmed my heart. I talked to her the whole short time we were being moved towards the shore. In retrospect, would I do it differently? The answer is –I would change only one thing. I would recruit the help of a fellow nearby kayaker to raft up and approach the swimmers as a stable platform. That’s it. In conclusion I would like to thank everyone who got involved (physically and emotionally) with this successful rescue. Thank you! Everything is well when it ends well!†There you have it folks! 60 seconds with the anonymous “original rescue boat†kayaker! He wishes to remain anonymous.

Hello Al, I would like to join you on Thursday (Tomorrow) at 11am. I just “Google-Mapped†the Tuck’s Point, Manchester put-in. If you change the put-in please provide directions –Street Address/GPS Coordinates work the best in 21 century Greetings, Konstantin

I plan on attending. Konstantin