Brian Nystrom

...between a 6'-8' long seal and a 15'-18' sea kayak. GWSs may not be the brightest creatures on the planet, but I doubt they'll confuse any of us for seals. OTOH, surf kayaks are just the right size and shape...

...so there will probably be another one within a month.

>A more permanent solution -- once I get the

>pad sizing all set -- is a hole through the pad and a line

>through the hole connecting a thin wooden disk behind the

>pad and a small "handle" in front.

That's what I've done, though I use a simple loop in the cord rather than a handle on the cockpit side. On the bulkhead side, a piece of wood or a large stainless fender washer does the trick. I inlet it into the backside of the foam so it fits flush against the bulkhead.

The M88 has a somewhat larger feature set than the M72 (land channels, etc.), hence the higher price. None of the extra features are specifically useful to kayakers. One cannot assume that the M72 is lower quality based strictly on the price, especially in view of its higher submersibility rating (JIS-8 vs. JIS-7 for the M88). It also has the speaker clearing feature that IS specifically useful to kayakers, which the M88 lacks.

Size is certainly an issue, especially for shoulder mounting, but the M72 does come with a mounting clip that can be used for shoulder mounting.

The green floral foam is available at craft stores. The blue and pink insulation are available at lumber yards and home centers.

...is if you remove the backband from your boat. Otherwise, it's largely an illusion. That's why racing boats typically have no backband.

As for the foam that Michael used, it's the stuff used for making floral arrangements. If you're going to use it, I'd suggest putting a layer of Minicel over it, as it's not very abrasion resistant. You could also use pink or blue insulation board, which is similar in stiffness.

...you're wasting a lot of energy for no gain, as all you're doing is shoving your back harder into the backband. The pressure on the feet only needs to be enough to resist the thrust on the paddle, which for most paddlers is in the neighborhood of 8-10 pounds, maximum (it sounds low, but it's true according to what I've read).

Bring a Zip-Lock bag to put it in and maybe some WD-40, too. Salt water will wreak havoc on the carbon-steel blade in a hurry. Don't ask how I know this... ;-)

...as it could make getting the screws out very difficult, if you ever find the need to remove the compass. This is one of the few places on a kayak where I would recommend a dab of silicone sealer. Other sealers would work just as well.

If you want to use epoxy putty, I suggest using it to build up the area where the screws protude BEFORE installing the screws. Allow the epoxy to harden, then drill and install the screws. If you don't drill all the way through the epoxy, it will prevent leaks as well.

...which was in turn bought by Brunton, the current manufacturer of these compasses. The design of the dial has changed a bit over the years, but they all mount and fit the same. I found out that Brunton will honor the warranty on Silva and Nexus compasses, so if you have one that springs a leak or becomes discolored, contact them. They replaced a pair of compasses for me a couple of years ago.

...then turn the compass until the lubber line is properly oriented. The compass is designed to allow such adjustments.

IMO, using bolts and nuts is unnecessary. The stock screws hold just fine in any material. Drilling the holes undersize as Jed suggests for plastic boats is a good idea as the holes will be self-sealing. With composite boats, a dab of sealer (any type under each screw location will do the trick. If the screws protrude to a degree that concerns you, simply snip off the ends and/or put a blob of sealant on them.

There was a thread about this on Paddling.net recently. There were at least a couple of people who own the M72 that commented on it. You might want to look up the thread.

For cutting, I use a band saw and a variety of "dollar store" knives. A flexible blade (fillet knife) is useful for curved cuts and rigid blades are best for straight cuts. For shaping, I primarily use this Stanley Surform tool which is available for under $5 at hardware stores and home centers:

http://stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGO...23174%3B+Shaver

http://stanleytools.com/catalog_images/mid...115_mid_res.jpg

Pulling it straight across the surface hogs off material pretty quickly, but using angled strokes creates smoother, finer cuts. If you want a suede-like surface on the foam, I find that 150 grit drywall sanding screens work better than sandpaper for fine surfacing of Minicel foam.

...which is why you see people theorizing about them but rarely hear of one. The most common type of failure is a seal tear, but they never occur when you're wearing the suit and paddling. Seals typically fail when you're putting the suit on or taking it off. While that can be a real inconvenience, at least it happens onshore, not on the water.

Yes, it's possible to rip a drysuit on rocks or other aquatic objects, but the fabrics used in them are very durable and the likelihood of that happening is extremely low, especially if one is not into rock garden play. I've scraped my suit pretty hard on rocks and barnacles several times and it's none the worse for wear.

IMO, the risk of experiencing a catastrophic dry suit failure is seriously overblown.

I've seen them on the surface, too. It seems to be something that they do at times. They're basically harmless and interesting to check out. Here's the salient paragraph from the link above:

"In general, the spiny dogfish poses little if any threat to humans. As the English common name "spiny dogfish" alludes to, this species has spines on the dorsal fins that can result in nasty wounds if not handled carefully. The dogfish uses these spines to defend itself, curling in a bow and striking at any threatening predator."

>Brian,

>

>Thanks for the help. The cable is definitely not JUST

>epoxied into place, it has a doo-dad bonded to the end like

>a bicycle brake cable, and like the brake cable where the

>doo-dad slips into a hole in the brake handle the doo-dad in

>this case slips into a key hole in the skeg plate where as

>you suggest, it is epoxied in place - if only I could draw a

>picture.

I understand what you mean. Thanks for the clarification.

>So it seems to me if I am to simply swap out the old cable

>for a new one I would need to find a cable with one of those

>doo-dads bonded to the end. Where would I find such a

>cable?

A dagger dealer should be able to get you one. You might even be able to get them directly from Dagger's customer support.

>The second option I suppose would be to drill a

>slip-fit hole in the edge of the skeg plate and bond the

>cable into place or drill and tap for a set screw to hold

>it.

I'm not a fan of bonding cables to skegs, as it complicates repairs and makes them nearly impossible in the field.

> But again, where would I go about getting stainless

>steel cable, West Marine?

Yes. They have 1x19 cable in several sizes, including 3/32" and 1/8". Make sure that you don't buy 7x19 cable, which is much more flexible and is not suitable for skeg cables.

>I like your suggestion of

>stainless steel wire, like a heavy duty version of a lawn

>mower throttle cable. Any suggestions where I might stumble

>upon that?

The only place I recall seeing it available is through McMaster-Carr. I don't know of any local sources. You might check with former Walden Kayaks dealers (such as New England Small Craft), as they used a wire on the Passage and possibly one or two other models.

IIRC, the dagger skeg cable is epoxied into the skeg blade. It will take a bit of work to get it out, but it can be done. Replacing it presents some options:

A) You can epoxy a new cable in place.

You can modify the skeg so you don't need to use epoxy.

Many skeg systems have cables held in place with a set screw. If you can drill and tap a hole in the edge of the skeg blade, you can install a set screw that will bind the cable in the existing hole. I would probably be worthwhile to study the skegs on a few other boats before modifying yours.

As for the cable material, most use a 1x19 stainless cable, either 3/32" or 1/8". I've found that using the thinner cable in place of the thicker often improves skeg function by reducing friction. It can actually reduce the likelihood of kinking if you happen to leave it down when landing, as the skeg blade can push the cable easily if it hits the bottom.

It's possible use a solid wire rather than a cable, but it must be smaller in diameter (~1/16") in order to be flexible enough. Walden used that method and IIRC, one or two other companies have as well. Finding stainless wire in the correct size can be difficult, however.

With any cable skeg, it's VERY important not to try to force the skeg blade down if it's jammed. That's the way that most skeg cables get bent.

If the battery contacts are sticky, carefully clean them with water on a Q-Tip to dissolve any salt, allow them to dry, then apply some silicone grease to them prevent future problems. They should move freely when you're done. Also, grease the O-ring seal around the contacts. Check the contacts on the top of the battery for salt and/or corrosion, too. I've seen one other similar failure and this procedure was recommended by the factory tech to correct/prevent it.

If the contacts are operating properly, a tiny amount of play between the battery and the radio body shouldn't matter.

We can add them to the litany of problems with this legislation.

You can definitely try it out before finishing it. Just rinse it well with fresh water to remove any salt, then let it dry overnight before applying the finish.

...that were sent to these legislators, courteously offering to work with them the last time they proposed this crap, it's obvious that they don't want our help. This legislation is nothing but pandering, "feel good" nonsense. It's designed to make them look concerned and give them something to add to their resumes, not to promote public safety. It's all about appearances.

The combined bill is a real mess and will create a lot of problems, particularly for outfitters, as discussed in previous threads. As for us, most of us are not "professional instructors", so we needn't worry. However, I see a potential gray area for those with instructor certifications who are conducting free classes for the NSPN. What status do they fall under?

This bill strikes me as a typical case of legislators lumping together a bunch of provisions that are hard to argue against individually, but whose combined effects are problematic. It's also classic "nanny government" trying to protect every idiot from themselves. There is no way they can enforce the regulations on paddlers as the state agencies have almost no resources to do so. It makes a lot more sense to use those limited resources for tasks like arresting drunks who are a danger to all water users than for checking to see if kayakers are carrying whistles. STOOPID!

That paddle looks suspiciously familiar. I seem to recall falling out of that boat once, too...

...here's something about cows with guns:

http://www.cowswithguns.com/cowmovie.html

Just click on the link that says: "To watch his movie... click here".

It's well worth watching. The only downside is that you can't get the "Cows with guns" refrain out of your head afterward.