KariTec skeg box leaks

[jdkilroy]

The KariTec skeg system has been the best I have used and abused so far, bar none. With only basic care and common sense I have never had it jam on those rare occasions that I actually needed it. Even when I forget to raise it and the skeg gets pushed into the box, the wire has not kinked (as designed).

KariTec uses a universal skeg box that allows installation of any of their three skeg systems; rope, wire or hydraulic.

The main problem with KariTec's universal skeg box is the bond between the plastic box and the fiberglass hull. With impact, (rock gardening, seal landings etc), the joint between the two materials can separate and the leaking begins.

NDK is now building their boats with a fiberglass housing to enclose the Kari box in order to address this.

I have addressed the leaks in my boat by adding a couple pieces of kevlar tape to strengthen the joint and end the leaks

http://i311.photobucket.com/albums/kk467/j...Kariskegbox.jpg

To effect the repair, you will need to release the skeg wire from the control box forward and remove the skeg assembly from the skeg box.

You then apply masking tape to the hull to limit the hull exposure to sanding and adhesive.

If the joint is already leaking you will want to remove the gel coat that overlaps the bottom of the skeg box. Rinse with fresh water and dry with isopropyl alcohol. You will know when you've done enough when you see a clear delineation between hull and skeg box.

You will need to mark the inside of the skeg box with a pencil where the widest piece of your tape will extend into the box and sand down that far (just beyond). I used both 1" and 2" Kevlar tape. (Do NOT use your wife's fine sewing shears to cut this stuff)

Sand everything smooth with 150 grit; the hull and down each side of the skeg box on the inside a little beyond your pencil line.

I used West system epoxy for the adhesive, applied to the masked off hull and the inside of the skeg box. There is a fair amount of room to work in there.

Kevlar is tricky stuff and just a little annoying to work with. You will find that you have to babysit the job after applying the tape (folded over the hull and into the skeg box). As the epoxy sets up the tape will want to unfold itself on one side of the fold or the other. It would be worth going through the exercise on a piece of wood first so you get an idea of what you will have to deal with.

On my boat, I used 1" tape first and then applied the 2" tape over it to reenforce and provide for wear.

Once the repair is complete, you will need to replace the skeg assembly and reconnect the control cable to the slider forward.

This worked quite well and if anyone is having similar problems and contemplating this solution, feel free to email and we can chat prior to your getting into it.

It sounds much more involved than it is but it's probably not a beginner job.

Jon

[Brian Nystrom]

Is there any particular reason you used Kevlar? This repair could be done with fiberglass, which would be simpler, easier and just as effective. BTW, when doing jobs similar to this where the reinforcing fabric tends to lift or curl, simply cover the repair with clear packing tape. It compresses the repair, which not only holds it in place, but also helps to optimize the compaction of the laminate. Once the epoxy cures, you simply peel off the tape and remove the adhesive residue with lacquer thinner, before sanding, painting, etc. Packing tape will NOT work with polyester resin, which will soften the tape. You would need to use cloth tape of some sort or put a sheet of polyethylene between the repair and the tape.

[jdkilroy]

Hi Brian,

To respond to the excellent points you raise:

"Is there any particular reason you used Kevlar? ... could be done with fiberglass, which would be simpler, easier and just as effective."

I used Kevlar primarily because it came as a tape; a fixed width with finished edges and I happened to have some. It was the toughest cloth product I had on hand. As far as simpler and easier; it was fairly simple and fairly easy.

"BTW, when doing jobs similar to this where the reinforcing fabric tends to lift or curl, simply cover the repair with clear packing tape."

Quite true and that would work well on the materials that lay over the hull. Taping over the material inside the skeg box is not an option so you still need to babysit the repair while the epoxy sets up.

Jon

[brambor]

Brian,

I'm not disagreeing with you but just wondering. Kevlar cloth and Fiberglass cloth appear to be just that - cloths. One lays the cloth and then mixes up epoxy resin and then wet the cloth...when the job dries we sand and probably wet again and then do a finish...

That is in my layman's understanding how it goes. I built a wooden boat with fiberglass once...wondering what the difference would be with Kevlar cloth.

And also wondering whether one can lay fiberglass cloth over kevlar layup or vice versa?

Thanks - I'm always appreciative of your expertise. I believe you might have helped me with my wooden boat eons ago at the kayakforum.

P.S. Thanks for you previous tip about surform tool. I got to work with it in the past 3 days and it's a blast.

Hi Brian,

To respond to the excellent points you raise:

"Is there any particular reason you used Kevlar? ... could be done with fiberglass, which would be simpler, easier and just as effective."

I used Kevlar primarily because it came as a tape; a fixed width with finished edges and I happened to have some. It was the toughest cloth product I had on hand. As far as simpler and easier; it was fairly simple and fairly easy.

"BTW, when doing jobs similar to this where the reinforcing fabric tends to lift or curl, simply cover the repair with clear packing tape."

Quite true and that would work well on the materials that lay over the hull. Taping over the material inside the skeg box is not an option so you still need to babysit the repair while the epoxy sets up.

Jon

[Brian Nystrom]

Brian,

I'm not disagreeing with you but just wondering. Kevlar cloth and Fiberglass cloth appear to be just that - cloths. One lays the cloth and then mixes up epoxy resin and then wet the cloth...when the job dries we sand and probably wet again and then do a finish...

That is in my layman's understanding how it goes. I built a wooden boat with fiberglass once...wondering what the difference would be with Kevlar cloth.

The reason I said that fiberglass would be easier is that it tends to conform better to curved surfaces. Other than that, there's not much difference.

And also wondering whether one can lay fiberglass cloth over kevlar layup or vice versa?

It makes no difference. As long as the resins are compatible, either way will work.

Thanks - I'm always appreciative of your expertise. I believe you might have helped me with my wooden boat eons ago at the kayakforum.

P.S. Thanks for you previous tip about surform tool. I got to work with it in the past 3 days and it's a blast.

Glad to help!

[bob budd]

"Kevlar cloth and Fiberglass cloth appear to be just that - cloths."

Having only worked with fiberglass I cannot say with certainty but Nick Schade (boat designer and builder) and others have said that Kevlar "floats" in the epoxy while fiberglass remains in place.

From my point of view the best thing about the packing tape is that you can form a repair and start sanding with something closer to what you end up with.