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Posted

Well, I think I'm sold. Time to get a twig and see what I can do with it outside a pool.

Thank you to our Greenland Spotters:

Tony Biscotti

Kristen Woodberry

Linda Shelburne

Brian Nystrom

and the omni-present Rick Crangle

Liz N.

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Posted

Thanks for the aid and also thanks to Tony and Brian for trying their boats.

Posted

Liz sez:

>Well, I think I'm sold. Time to get a twig and see what I

>can do with it outside a pool.

Hmmm... maybe me too. ;-)) Next... a paddle.

For those of us lacking the time, tools and maybe even skill to carve one for ourselves, what do GPers recommend for store bought twigs? There are so darn many variables for even the basic paddle -- length, shape, loom length and thickness, shoulder shape, etc. What brands are good... or do brands carry less cachet in the GP world, where so many paddles are home-made.

I must say, however, that all the paddles that folks have so generously loaned me in pool sessions and elsewhere have felt fine. But that may just be my undeveloped discrimination.

Thanks. --David.

PS: Also, many thanks to all the instructors and spotters.

Posted

>Hmmm... maybe me too. ;-)) Next... a paddle.

>

>For those of us lacking the time, tools and maybe even skill

>to carve one for ourselves, what do GPers recommend for

>store bought twigs? There are so darn many variables for

>even the basic paddle -- length, shape, loom length and

>thickness, shoulder shape, etc. What brands are good... or

>do brands carry less cachet in the GP world, where so many

>paddles are home-made.

>

For store bought I've liked Cricket in the past, but admittedly it's been a while. Feathercraft makes a nice two part Greenland stick, but its a bit pricey. A lot of folks seem to like Superior as well.

Twiggers tend to end up making their own for a bunch of reasons -- it's easy, fun, theraputic (sp) and incredible cheap ($24-$28 for a great light custom fit paddle). In terms of tools, you can use anything that removes wood, the only difference tools make is how long it takes to finish the job. Remember the original developers used rocks and bones. Of course, modern Greenlanders also use power planers.

All you really need is a 2x4 (western red cedar used for decks is really good), a set of instructions (go to www.qajaqusa.org) and some patience.

Good luck.

Keith

Posted

Posted by Brian on Linda's computer (Drat!, I forgot to log in again!)

The Qajaq USA site has a list of paddle manufacturers at:

http://www.qajaqusa.org/Equipment/commercial_paddles.htm

I'm somewhat familiar with Cricket and Superior paddles, both of which are fine products. Mitchell has always made high quality products and their GP (the Horizon) is no exception, but it's rather long for most people. I've heard great things about Don Beale's paddles, which are custom made to any dimensions.

For the "DIY wannabe, but not quite sure about it" crowd, Shaw and Tenney sell a semi-finished paddle blank that looks good, but will likely need a fair amount of slimming in the loom area. Newfound Woodworks (www.newfound.com) is offering a rough cut spruce blank for half the price of the S&T blank.

As Keith mentioned, making one's own GP is pretty easy and doesn't require a boatload of tools or any significant woodworking experience. A hand saw, a sharp block plane and some sandpaper are all that's required, along with ~8 hours of time. Cedar 2x4's are available at most lumber dealers. The best instructions I've seen on the net are Chuck Holst's, which are available to download at:

http://www.qajaqusa.org/Equipment/equipment.htm

If anyone would like to duplicate the shape of my paddles, I have some notes written up on the modifications I made to Chuck's instructions. The process I use is actually slightly simpler and results in a paddle that's a bit beefier in the blades and, IMO, smoother in the water. I also have some notes on paddle lengths, loom lengths, finishing, etc. I'll glady email the notes to anyone who's interested.

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