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9 days paddling Quebec's Cote-Nord


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Posted

I was fortunate to be able to take a trip to the Cote-Nord in Quebec - including the Mingan islands, the Saguenay, and the Le Bergeronnes area of the St. Lawrence - and have posted the trip report here. There's a lot of detail, but it's pretty easy to just skim the pictures too. I created it in part to supply more info online about the area, as I had a hard time finding information for my trip. I'll probably be adding more to the site, some tips for paddling in these areas, some gear reviews - or maybe not.

I would just add that I think both the Saguenay and Le Bergeronnes are wonderful not only for dedicated seakayakers but also as a family trip. They are not nearly as far away as Mingan, and can be approached by people who have no desire to be skilled paddlers. Mingan is a paddler's destination and requires (in my opinion) solid skills and experience. Given that, it's an amazing place to visit.

Please read and enjoy!

Kate

bergeronfog4400.jpg

Posted

Looks like an excellent excellent trip. Haven't made it through the whole report yet..but very envious of your trip.

We have been to the Mingans and Saguenay...but... not by kayak, which is what we are working up to for next year (Mingans).

I have to do my homework about the Bergeronnes...it's the 1st time I've seen reference to it...and I thought I knew my way around up there....

I've hit a bit of a dead end trying to find out info for the "Route bleue"... for the Gaspe Peninsular(other shore) using google translation is a great idea...I'll have to learn more about it.

your trip on the Cote nord being the much wilder of the two shores.

thoughts of Anticosti circumference cross your mind ?

There is one fellow from Chicoutimi who I believe linked together much of the area a year or two ago.)

Well congratulations on a great trip...I'll get back to reading more of it !

spdr

Posted
Looks like an excellent excellent trip. Haven't made it through the whole report yet..but very envious of your trip.

We have been to the Mingans and Saguenay...but... not by kayak, which is what we are working up to for next year (Mingans).

I have to do my homework about the Bergeronnes...it's the 1st time I've seen reference to it...and I thought I knew my way around up there....

I've hit a bit of a dead end trying to find out info for the "Route bleue"... for the Gaspe Peninsular(other shore) using google translation is a great idea...I'll have to learn more about it.

your trip on the Cote nord being the much wilder of the two shores.

thoughts of Anticosti circumference cross your mind ?

There is one fellow from Chicoutimi who I believe linked together much of the area a year or two ago.)

Well congratulations on a great trip...I'll get back to reading more of it !

spdr

Well that is an excellent trip report if ever there was one !! Beautifull photos !!

Rowdy stuff at the Mingans. (I was wondering where all that calm water at the begining of the trip was from)

First time I ever met sea kayakers was at the Mingans 6 or so years ago They had just been storm for 4 days...

congratulations again !!

(ummm... I might be quoting myself on this response...sorry about that I'm not to good with this stufff...)

Posted

Wonderful stuff, great pictures and text. Must have been a grand adventure.

No doubt your belief in your self as a paddler and traveler and your skills as a mariner became far greater as a result.

Another destination for me to dream about this coming winter.

Ed Lawson

Posted

What an AWESOME trip report and photos. Thank you SOOOO much for posting. Of course, now I'm jealous, as I've been wanting to get up that way for years now, but haven't yet managed it. This will be a great incentive as this is now a "must do", not just a "want to do". I wonder if any others from the group are thinking of putting together a trip to the Saguenay for next year?

Roger Turgeon

Night Heron, Cedar-strip

Posted

What a great diversion from the everyday pace here at work, Kate! Thank you! And professional-quality photos (how did you get the gull to pose mid-flight?)!

I echo your general sentiments of solo paddling.

On Day 4, when you were semi-stranded on NW cove of Ile du Havre, did you consider waiting until nightfall to return to basecamp, when the winds might be considerably less (were they?), or did the forecast suggest the winds would continue through the night? Obviously a major decision for a solo paddler with either option containing elements of risk.

Gary

Posted
On Day 4, when you were semi-stranded on NW cove of Ile du Havre, did you consider waiting until nightfall to return to basecamp, when the winds might be considerably less (were they?), or did the forecast suggest the winds would continue through the night? Obviously a major decision for a solo paddler with either option containing elements of risk.

The decision was whether to camp right there (exposed to the wind) or to go around the point. Lack of information about what awaited me around the point was the deciding factor - I thought I'd be able to duck in and out of easy water and be able to get to what I imagined was the best place for me to camp. I made the best decision I could, given the info I had, but it was incomplete info.

As it turned out, the winds did continue until well after dark, but had dropped significantly by morning. This was true on day 5 as well. Now that I know this pattern as well as what happens to those southern coastlines in southwesterlies, I can make better decisions next time!

*****

And I'm so pleased that those who responded here are inspired to go there too. It is well worth the trip, and the drive itself is lovely. (Okay, a book-on-tape helped.)

Spider - Anticosti is far away! No way would I paddle to there nor attempt to circumnavigate! I'll leave that trip for you to do....

Roger - take a look at Jeff Gephart's trip report. He did the trip in a strip-built Night Heron too, if I recall correctly.

Kate

Posted

Kate-

Great TR. Between the photos and the writing felt like I was there. Though I'm beginning to believe that you have a skill for finding interesting conditions! Glad your back safe and sound.

Phil

Posted

Kate,

Have I ever seen a better trip report than yours? I'm sure I haven't.

A perfect balance of photos, text and maps that gives me a real sense of the area you explored.

Thank you.

As an aside, your photo gallery gives one a good sense of the high quality of parks and camping facilities in Canada.

Posted
ok, I am feeling really dumb now but I do not find a way to read the report! Somebody help me!

Where/what do I click??

maryb

Thank you Mary, you are not alone, I could not figure it out either.

Bill

Posted

Thought I would give a try with the bird id's.

My vote for the "evil gull" is a Black Legged Kittiwake...ok it was the black legs that were the big clue. Ussually they are in groups and not all that aggresive but then again there are always exceptions.

(you can usually tell the juveniles cuz they slouch a lot and often have a cigarette ..though secretly)

The group of birds on shore... I could play it safe and just say they were Plovers... but I'll go for Piping Plovers... more of them up there and they always seem to have that slightly worried look like you just caught them doing something they shouldn"t be doing.

You should definitley take credit for seeing the Puffin...Macareaux..."the petit clown" ok I took that right from the Parc series magazine issue L' Archipel -de- Migan .

Wish I was remotley as good with whale Id you had awesome sightings!!

oh the Anticosti Isle...it was the story of the Cannibal that got me out there (by ferry back then) crossing by kayak is way beyond my capabilities....

Posted

Still poring over your "katepedia" account of your trip, Kate, with tons of valuable information. Made the super-cat stove last night, and works like a charm. Something I'll include in my "bivvy" kit. Speaking of which-from your and VT paddler's accounts there were more than a few dicey moments for a solo paddler, and I'm sure you were prepared to include essentials in your bivvy kit, for circumstances that may have left you stranded, perhaps overnight, on an island other than "basecamp". Care to share your list of "don't leave home without.." for these daytrips from basecamp? I suppose this ought to be included on any outing; I haven't been good about assembling my kit. (Aside: Just finished reading Sea Kayak Mag book of Safety and Rescue, and no mention of this!) Others chime in please. Thanks.

Gary

Posted
Care to share your list of "don't leave home without.." for these daytrips from basecamp?

Gary

Good question. I am going to be adding a few more pages to the site addressing this question, as well as giving my suggestions and tips for paddling at the three locations, and a few gear reviews - what worked well, what didn't. So check back in a week or so... but matches and water definitely top the list!

I will just note that my original trip plan had me breaking camp every night and moving to a new location. The weather changed that plan and I didn't have a set-up for day-trips except for my safety bag. So I wasn't really prepared for spending a night away from my basecamp, and if there had not been the emergency shelter building or the emergency young folks in a runabout I might have had a cold and uncomfortable night on the island. This is one of those situations where you learn from experience, thankfully an easy lesson in this case. So I'll be interested to hear what you or others come up with as a "must take" list - I can incorporate these ideas into the list I post on my site.

Also, paddle upwind going out and downwind coming home!

kate

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Kate - what fabulous photos. Thanks for your trip report. What kind of boat did you use? I assume you brought your own?

Karen

Posted
What kind of boat did you use? I assume you brought your own?

Karen

Karen, I realized somewhere along the way while writing the report that I hadn't made any mention of the boat! It is a Valley Avocet RM (that is, a plastic Avocet). I think it is not an ideal boat for an expedition in a windy location, but then again it was ideal for me because it is my boat and I know it through and through! There are boats aplenty that hold more gear in the hatches, but even so, the Avocet held enough. The upswept bow catches the wind like a sail, even when fully loaded with gear (that said, it was never a problem on this trip - the wind difficulties had to do with my own lack of strength to paddle into it). I figure I couldn't have brought more than a 60 lb load. With my body weight that comes to a total load of 180 lbs. And the Avocet was still riding high in the water.

I do think that a plastic boat is a good idea for the Mingan islands. There are many shallow reefs and most of the landings are onto rough rock slabs. I left plenty of plastic behind on those rocks, dragging the boat out of the water.

So let me praise the Avocet, a nimble boat and very seaworthy. It's the first seakayak I bought, 6 years ago, and I have yet to find a kayak I like better.

Kate

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