Outfitting & deck rigging....

[jeffcasey]

...On the eve of Brian's outfitting workshop, let's hear some opinions on how to rig the deck. I thought it was slam-dunk-simple: nylon cord all around the deck and bungees criss-crossing across.

Last outfitting workshop, Rick Crangle showed me a couple tricks that hadn't occurred to me:

-- rig one cross-line hard (non-bungee) right in front of the cockpit, so that your short tow can slide to either side.

-- don't bother rigging any deck lines next to the cockpit, as they aren't useful...just rig separate fore and aft sections.

I'm also starting to comprehend the uses of balls on the deck lines, to hold them off the deck. So far, this has appeared useful to:

-- keep the deck lines off the deck, so they won't freeze in place (timely)...it seems I want to use small balls for this

-- space the frontmost and rearmost sections of deckline up high for an easy tow-clip-on...seems I want to use big balls for this

-- space cross-deck bungees up near the bow off the deck to make it easy to slide a paddle under for quick stowing.

These tricks may seem obvious to those who know them well, but some of them were new to this bozo. Any other brilliance out there?

[Shane]

Hey Jeff,

I will be at the session tomorrow morning.

In lieu of a installing an underdeck pump holder, on the aft deck and if you have a dry hatch, I managed a unique Shane bungie tie such using two rounds around the circumference of the day hatch section and by using a cross bungie on the half opposite of the day hatch I can effectively hold down a paddle float (on the lower) as well a bilge pump over the held down float. It's battle tested and works really well for Brenda and I.

You can make it out somewhat with the picture of Bren in front of the kayak on our page at http://www.2paddles.com

I hate having crud on the front bungies that get in the way of my already crappy stroke, so an effective rigging system in the back was a real dilemia. I'm sure if there are any good knot tyers coming, it could be even better done.

I'd be happy to show it to you and to learn what others may have done tomorrow!

_Shane

"Would a knife help protect you against a ‘curious’ shark? I don’t know but I would like the option." - Trevor Gardner

[Brian Nystrom]

In addition to what you've spoken of, my philosophy regarding bungee cord is "less is more". Specifically, I use hard lines in lieu of bungee for most of the deck rigging. I've found that bungees is pretty lousy at holding anything on a kayak in rough conditions. Greenland style deck rigging with parallel hard lines and sliding tensioners is far more effective at keeping things in place. There are some examples of this and other deck rigging in my Webshots albums at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom

If anyone wants to try this setup, just bring some wood (almost any type will work) to the workshop and we'll make some. I usually make my sliders out of 3/4" square stock.

[eneumeier]

I've seen a number of people rig a painter on their bow, clipped somewhere near the cockpit. While a painter is a handy thing to have, I still need to be convinced that this is a good idea, since it seems like another line to get snagged.

Jill had a line rigged in case she needed to be towed, one that she could reach to release herself from the tow. I like that idea. Perhaps someone can show me how to do that. See you soon.

Liz N.

[Guest guest]

I think you've got my boat confused with someone else's Liz.

Jill

[Richard N]

Liz:

Exiting or entering a kayak from a dock or pier can be a very dangerous exercise.

A long painter (line) attached to the bow functions as a spring line to enable a much more stable condition.

The procedure is very simple.

Pull along side the dock or pier.

Attach the spring line to any fixed item on the dock (cleat, ring, etc.).

Use your hands or arms to move your boat forward.

As the spring line tightens your boat becomes jammed against the dock and is prevented from moving forward.

Your boat is now a fixed platform as long as you continue to apply forward pressure. And, because it's attached to the dock with the line, it won't float away.

Tip: The pivot point is the bow of your boat.

Forward pressure must be applied on the side of your boat closest to the dock. If you apply forward pressure on the opposite side, your boat will swing away from the dock.

For me.....it's a must have.

Richard

Living to learn.

Romany White, Blue trim

[eneumeier]

I've used my contact tow for this (getting out at a high dock) purpose and it has always worked fine. Since I keep it daisy-chained and under the deck bungy, I think there is less likelihood of it snagging, as contrasted with a long painter running loose from the bow all the way to a deck line near me.

Just my opinion. Others will undoubtedly have other viewpoints.

Liz N.