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Surf, skirts and soloing -- a cautionary tale


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Some rolls are just more "bombproof" than others...

Surfing 6-7' waves on a beach break with a long boat is not a great idea. (Speaking from the school of hard knocks.) Not many folks can pull that off. Pitchpoling is much more likely than with a short boat going diagonal across a waveface.

When your gut and fear factor overcome the stoke, then it's time to get back on the beach. Of course, it's hard to have a good "gut" for these things until one takes a trashin' or two.

Some folks shouldn't even surf 3-4' waves. It's all relative.


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This is posted by Bad Billy, a longtime waveskier in OZ, of his session on a break yesterday. Gut kicking in based on years of experience and riding different breaks and different waveskis:


If its me and I'm out the back and I know it's not to shallow Id try my luck with breaking thru the lip... Sometimes you get lucky.. Sometimes not.

6-8 ft is what I took on this morning and all I can say is I wasn't keen to try any damn fangled stern rolls. It's go for it or die trying at that size. You hestitate or dont commit you'll pay. Mind you I'm talking piha which is a closeout frieght train beach break... If it's a point or river bar and theres a shoulder.... go hard....

What also was going thru my mind other than 50,000 litres of water was what the hell am I doing out here.

Even the boardy's weren't venturing out.. I took 3 waves.... got that out of my system and then retired into the reform for a workout...

Mother nature wasn't taking any prisoners and I wasn't keen to be the mornings entertainment.

New Board.... No leg rope... Hideous rip... lone wolf...and it felt evil.....


Regards Billy.


It's better to burn out than fade away.

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