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this is why you don't surf all the way into the beach

Phil Allen

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Yes, don't surf all of the way into the beach like I did.

Once I rented a waveski (similar to a surfski) in Florida. I caught a wave and soon realized I was heading into a partially submerged rock reef near shore. I jumped off at the last second and probably broke the femoral neck of my left leg. To make matters worse, about a minute later, the boat surfed itself into my left hip and completed the fracture.

Curiously, the day before I broke my decade record for a 1-mile run (just under 6 minutes, at age 63); ironically, that turned out to be the last time that I could really run.

-Leon (who’s more careful now)

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