gyork Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 Skip report; go straight to slideshow While many of you were likely carping about the oppressive heat last week, our diverse collection of new and established seven friends were, at times, trying to take the chill off during our 5-day adventure in the sub – 70° climate of Jonesport. We gathered in plenty of time for a planned 1 o’clock launch at the Jonesport Shipyard, a spectacular new venue for exploring the fabulous marine surroundings: https://www.jonesportshipyard.com We spent the first afternoon establishing our Base Camp on one of the many islands, leaving time for short hikes and day 2 prep, a circumnav of great Wass Island. Fog was to be our nearly-constant companion for the rest of the week, yet we were determined to be undeterred. Dan took the lead on this day (#2) and most days thereafter, guiding us from island to island with pinpoint accuracy in the alternating patchy and widespread fog. In the passage between Ram and Outer Ram, we encountered 3 sea otters playing (what else do they do?) near the shore, a “first” sighting for me. Stopping at “the Pond,” we enjoyed a well-deserved lunch in the lee of the SSE light winds, with relatively benign conditions on the “outside.” We continued meandering in a CCW direction, encountering hikers on the Great Wass Island Preserve trails, and later, a large commercial fishery producing behemoth “artificial“ salmon (what do they feed them?). We took full advantage of the Moosabec Reach flow (westerly), before finally arriving back at Base Camp, a 16.5M day. Day #3 started off on a sad note, as we would lose one of our companions to unresolved concerns shoreside; and then there were six. The ever-present fog, dense and widespread would challenge our navigation skills the entire day. At Stevens, we met a couple in a rowing/sailing dory/skiff, with two docile Shelties. They had plans to row down the archipelago to the “Sands.” Though not entry-level navigation, the proximity of the islands afforded a fairly easy paddle southerly to the same destination. Note to self: the only sand found at either Inner or Outer Sand Island, was the northern-most LEDGE between the two, which had a lagoon-like setting, already claimed by the Stevens party. We retraced our steps partway up the chain, and veered northwesterly to scout out the SW shore of Wahoa Bay. The most difficult crossing of the trip ensued, an easterly crossing in dense fog to the cluster of islets among ledges. One of us who claims to be a pretty good navigator was not a little uncomfortable staying found, so he consulted his friend GAIA, who erased all concerns. At length, we were back at Base Camp eating a common-theme meal of grain base and soup/sauce, with variations, around a small campfire. ~12.8M Day four paddle was a teaser, with patchy fog alternating with areas of sunshine and improved visability. We used the profile of Head Harbor Island to convey destinations to one another-the mangy dog’s snout to forepaw, forepaw to hindpaw, etc. A fleet of four or five blue, deep, and wide skiffs, flags flying, the seaweed (rockweed) pirates, were harvesting their bounty on the lower half of the this tide cycle. We worked our way along the NW border of Steel Harbor Island, poking into an otherworldly passage around an island protected from the typical SW seas. Upon reaching Mistake, no one was quite sure how we were going to land on the island, and Doug convinced us to paddle CCW to check out possibilities. We soon encountered washing machine conditions at the southern tip, and despite the allure of the photogenic lighthouse, all hands were focused on blades until we turned the corner into the slot, with photo-ops aplenty. We returned to the northern-most tip of the island, where landing opportunities were many, and we enjoyed a late lunch. We expected to find a path to the nearby boathouse, but the scouting party failed, and three brave souls ventured to the 45° boat ramp, jumped out, and wrestled the three vessels into compromising positions. Meanwhile, the two dillydallyers easily found the well-worn path to the boat house and chided the head of the scouting party, appropriately. Kate was content paddling to neighboring Knight island, frolicking about the high, broad, pink granite ledges. A beautiful boardwalk led us to the working Mistake lighthouse, scattered blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries occasionally within reach, and delicious. Fully sated on all accounts, we launched and quickly encountered two kayakers approaching us in the fog, one of whom was acquainted with Cath. We retraced our route under clear skies and calm conditions until within a mile from Base Camp, where a dense fog blanket welcomed us back home, of course! 15.6M Our last day, #5, dawned early and bright, with clear skies that would continue the rest of the day. Four of us launched promptly at 7 AM, with plans to beat the Boston traffic, visit family, etc. Some of us had not paddled together, yet it was a fine collection of like-minded people touring in difficult conditions, enjoying each other’s company, and somehow, making friends with the fog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Foster Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 It truly was a magnificent week of paddling, navigating, and camping. Thanks to Gary for proposing and organizing the trip, Cath for securing our launch and parking at Jonesport Shipyard, Chuck Sutherland (small craft nav aide) and the Earth's molten iron core for giving us the tools to navigate in pea soup fog. Perhaps it was because I've been reading A Secret Life of Lobsters (recommended by several NSPNers) recently, but this trip really opened my eyes to the changing state of Maine's lobstering and related industries. Right off the bat we encountered young men in blue skiffs pulled up at a wharf where a crane with a claw was offloading tons of kelp (it turned out to be rockweed). More on that: Rockweed harvest case is win for landowners - Mount Desert Islander On two of our paddling days, we got a chance to get up close and witness the workings of Maine's salmon aquaculture pens. Photo in Jonesport/Great Wass, 8.21 - Google Photos On our final day of paddling, the fog lifted just long enough to lull us into a sense of security on our paddle home down Moosabec Reach, and then promptly closed in, leaving us uncertain of our exact location. The sound of rushing water nearby turned out to be an important navigational clue, as we were right near the outlet of a quarry-sized historic lobster pound that was draining with the outgoing tide. After three days of nearly-non-stop practice and immersion, paddling in the fog went from "today's going to be a total washout" to "yes! another day of paddling through a moonscape!" We had some incredible otherworldly moments, gliding in silence through jagged intertidal rocks on a glassy, mercurial [in the liquid metal sense] ocean that melted seamlessly into the atmosphere that enveloped us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEL Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 5 hours ago, Dan Foster said: mercurial [in the liquid metal sense] ocean that melted seamlessly into the atmosphere that enveloped us. Dan: Wonderful description of the the visual sense of paddling in in dense fog (is there any other kind Downeast?). It is a beguiling experience to glide along in silence with no horizon and objects emerging, more or less, along the way. The Cow Yard/Head Harbor is a magical place in an area that can redefine paddling. At least for me it did. Ed Lawson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbara Ryan Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 What a FANTASTIC trip!! Wonderful, poetic and visual descriptions in photos and words. Thanks for sharing your adventure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Berkovitz Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Glad you guys had such a great time! I just returned yesterday from a 7-night traipse through the same area with Prudence/DavidM/Janet, visiting some of the same places and some different ones also. We also started and finished at Jonesport Shipyard and heard about these “other kayakers” who had been in the area! Trip report will be delayed somewhat since I’m still traveling elsewhere in ME. We spent 5 nights on Norton and 2 on Halifax much further to the east. Weather very different from yours, beginning with clear skies and NW winds and ending with patchy fog. what an unbelievable and unforgettable region. This may be my new favorite Downeast destination. Next year again for sure! Teaser shot of David in a long, long Steele Harbor Island slot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Cooke Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 Gary and Dan you are masterful trip report writers! Thank you for walking me back through such a wonderful week of paddling and camaraderie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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