prudenceb Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 I just spoke with Werner about my two piece Cypress that is hard to out together and REALLY hard to take apart - despite my rinsing thoroughly with fresh water after every paddle. They said rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water with a little Dawn dishwashing liquid added to it. You can even use soft bristle toothbrush and gently clean inside the open end to remove any salt water residue. Anyone ever tried this? I'll give it a try and see if it works! (I just sent another paddle in for repair - this one wouldn't stay together...) and they said it had residue inside. Who knew?) Prudence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Hi Prudence. Hope you're well. You can't really hurt a carbon-fiber epoxy layup much, so ANY solvent or surfactant can be used to clean it up. If still too "sticky" then first clean out the hollow end as best you can, and then polish the "male" end with 400-600grit sandpaper. Repeat inside the hollow with the paper wrapped around your finger. Finish with a surfactant (like Dawn, or any soap) and test. If, on the other hand, it ever seems too LOOSE, thousands of bicyclists have learned to use a special and easy to find "carbon paste" that keeps mating surfaces sticky when assembled. This "dressing" is often used on handlebars, stems, and seatposts, where the stresses can greatly exceed our paddle shafts' forces. Carbon paste is sticky and gooey, so only use as a last resort with loose shaft joints if you've sanded too far. Best, Ern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prudenceb Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 2 hours ago, subaruguru said: Hi Prudence. Hope you're well. You can't really hurt a carbon-fiber epoxy layup much, so ANY solvent or surfactant can be used to clean it up. If still too "sticky" then first clean out the hollow end as best you can, and then polish the "male" end with 400-600grit sandpaper. Repeat inside the hollow with the paper wrapped around your finger. Finish with a surfactant (like Dawn, or any soap) and test. If, on the other hand, it ever seems too LOOSE, thousands of bicyclists have learned to use a special and easy to find "carbon paste" that keeps mating surfaces sticky when assembled. This "dressing" is often used on handlebars, stems, and seatposts, where the stresses can greatly exceed our paddle shafts' forces. Carbon paste is sticky and gooey, so only use as a last resort with loose shaft joints if you've sanded too far. Best, Ern Thanks! Nice to hear from you and hope all is well with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdrayer Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 For loose/wobbly paddle connections I’ve learned that a thin smear of superglue on the male side can increase the purchase required to get a tight fit particularly with “lever lock” style connections — you can apply multiple layers to build up thickness as needed. you just want to make sure the glue is totally dry before you put the paddle back together or you’ll never get it apart again Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nancy Hill Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 My Gearlab Greenland paddle with carbon fiber ferrule came with a little disc of what looks like candle wax for coating the male side. It helps the pieces slide together and come apart much easier than with no wax. It is not quite as hard as parrafin, but more like a soy candle wax (just a little softer). Maybe try something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.