risingsn

I must say I wish I could go back, I lived there for a year.

www.seakayakiceland.com

I met the owners severl years ago, great people.

Leave some time for some 'land' site seeing.

Enjoy!

Chuck

Hi Christropher,

I purchased, in '06, a new Avocet & covered it in 3M film (6 mil I think). My assesment of this stuff is that it is almost bullet proof. I don't remember where I purchased it but I remember finding it online, the company primarily sold protective products for cars.

I did my whole deck.

Thanks,

Chuck

I did a trip up there several years ago with Coastal Spirit Expeditions ( www.coastalspiritexp.com ), the did a great job. The owner is Peter

Enjoy,

Chuck

Hi Cath, My wife Nancy's is the same size as you are. Her first composite kayak was an Impex Mystic. At 14' this a great boat for a smaller paddle, excellent handling, a good turn of speed, good in the surf & in glass it only weighs #40. I'm 5'7 & #155, I loved it in the surf. She said that you would have to pry it from her cold dead hand if you wanted it. Then one day she tried a P&H Vela (which she now owns), 15'8" x 20" wide. This is a sports car of a kayak. The initial stability is lighter than the Mystic, it will turn on a dime & is very fast. These are 2 very different boats. You will find the Mystic to be very solid, where as the Vela will require more of your attention until you get accustomed to it. I would strongly recommend that you find them & paddle them. Though they are shorter than the boat you have or a longer boat you will probably find that it will be easier for you to 'keep up' in a boat that is appropriately sized for you. I think you will be hard pressed to find a 'long boat' (even an LV) that will be easy for you to control. Of course the proof is in the paddling. Well, there is my 2 cents ($2.50 w/ the coming inflation). Thanks, Chuck

I have the Brunson one. It's a nice gadget. The one I have also tracks barometric pressure. For what it's worth, I like to go au natural these days and use the Beaufort scale.

The only minor warning about a handheld anemometer is you will be measuring very local wind, and if you're in the shadow of waves, it might not necessarily be a good indicator of the sea state.

I have had a Kestral 1000. This unit only measures wind speed, in knots, mph ft./sec. It is water proof so you can actually measure speed through the water. Great unit, about $75.

I was stationed there in the early '70s, it is a beautiful place. You might want to read a book called 'Around the Rock', it is by someone who paddled around NF. Their is also an outfitter & touring company out of St. Johns, it was highlighted in one of the 'This is the Sea' videos.

Also if you go to the Back Packer magazine wed site & search you will find several articles they have done about hiking there.

Have a great time!

Chuck

I've had the D10 since last year and have no issues with it. I've had it in pools doing underwater shots and used on the ocean. I also soak it in water after ocean use for a long time. No leaks and it feels sturdy, but some people can ruin any product so the people with leaks in 2" of water probably have no concept of when the covers aren't secure. Video resolution is basic with no HD. Images are nice but the edges are a bit blurry, probably due to the outer glass. I just frame shots expecting to crop that out. Dark night shots for timed exposure for stars and stuff isn't good, at least with the preset mode for that. I wouldn't think the overall image quality is worse than anything else out there unless new models have come out, and the reviews at the time had it in the top few. I've seen a lot of shots posted from other waterproof cams and their images can be so overly noise corrected they look painted (is that the camera firmware or their post editing software?) I've not really had that with the D10.

The LCD can go very bright for sunny day use so you will not have an issue using it on the water. Menus are quick and easy. Battery life is no issue but I also got a generic brand spare battery. I can fit it in my Ronin pocket without a problem and I don't mind having something substantial to hold when taking pictures. Thinner would be nice but it hasn't been an issue. I've not had an issue regarding having no cover. If the outer glass gets dried salt on it I just rinse with drinking water. There is a coating that keeps it pretty bead-free anyway. I've not had water spot issues as I can see if there is water on the glass before taking shots. I do have that problem with my helmet video though.

I can't tell you this is the best one to get but with the exception of the video limitations you won't have a reason to regret having the D10, especially if found for around $200 or less. You likely won't find another camera in its class made in Japan either. That's a huge plus.

So here is my 2 cents. I have a Pentax W60, it is about 2 years old. One of the reasons I choose this camera is that it did not have a closing lens cover. When compared to the Olympus from turn on to first shot it is twice as fast (it doesn't have a cover to open). As to the gasket issue, when I am not using the camera I leave the battery door open to allow the gasket to expand to its normal shape. I do this with all of my water proof boxes, etc. I would also recommend at least a 5x zoom which is the equivalent to about a 120 mm lens in the 35mm world.

I paddle almost everyday, 12 months a year. That gives me a little time to think about some of the lore of paddling.

Among all the various aspects of sea kayaking, my favorite is extreme long distance paddling and sea kayak racing. Accordingly, I’m very interested in the efficiency of my forward stroke. By efficiency, I mean, that for a given speed, the total work done per mile (for instance Calories or horsepower seconds) should be minimized. That is, the less work the higher the efficiency of the stroke cycle. Of course, for a given forward stroke cycle, the efficiency at one speed is generally different than it is at another speed. Since there is not enough accuracy in a standard GPS to measure instantaneous speed and there is no simple way to measure power (or work) there is no way for me to scientifically measure the efficiency of my stroke. I’ve had to estimate my “relative” efficiency by “feeling”, sometimes augmented by a heart rate monitor and also paddling close to other paddlers.

As you all know, a standard technique for the forward stroke is to add a bit of a pause before you spear the water for the next catch. I think that there are two reasons for this pause: 1. To make sure you get a good clean catch and 2. To rest while your kayak glides. The second reason is based on the fact that your boat will glide forward on it’s own with only a slight change in momentum (loss of speed) during the pause phase. So, in effect, you get some rest at the cost of a very slight reduction of speed.

In my experience, I’ve found that the pause should decrease as your speed increases (especially for a race where efficiency is constrained by the need to finish the course as fast as possible). But I haven’t been able to accurately quantify how long the pause should be as a function of speed. I couldn’t find any help researching the Internet. However, I found this interesting video http://kayak-skills.kayaklakemead.com/forward-stroke-cadence.html from KayakLakeMead.

In the video the paddler demonstrates a forward stroke composed of three strokes followed by a pause (glide) and catch instead of the usual pause before each catch. I tried this three-step and it seems to lower my efficiency, not raise it. Logically the three strokes before the pause doesn’t make sense to me because you’re not taking advantage of a potential free glide in three out of the four strokes. However, the accompanying article only discusses the standard pause before each catch. Perhaps the video is just meant to demonstrate an exercise, but I think actually paddling with a pause before each catch would be a better exercise.

Here http://www.kayakquixotica.com/2005/10/30/glide/ they say,“I’ve seen others do 2 strokes on both sides and then pause. You sort of have to find your own rhythm. But the point is the pause is your rest time.” I think this is screwy too if the point is to maximize your efficiency.

Anyway, what do you dudes and dudettes think about this pause to glide topic. How long do you pause? Do you have any opinions about the video? Do you pause before every stroke?

Respectfully

Leon (who will be back to paddle in NE next month)

If I wanted to know I would ask Ben Lawry, he is at kayakcamp.net

Chuck

Hi Kevin, Here is the link to the Palm UK site http://www.palmequipmenteurope.com/gear/surface_immersion_suits.php it will give you all of the specs. for their latest kit. I have a Palm Aleutian dry suit & an Aleutian semi dry top. I am very happy w/ both plus other misc. Palm kit I have. As Suz says the warranty if needed may be an issue. Thanks, Chuck

So many choices for gear, camping methods, etc... just remember that that what everyone is going to tell you is what works for them, it's sort of like "what's the best boat for me?

Here's my 2 cent list of opinions

Tent - so many options, get something big enough that if you're pinned down in a thunder storm you wont be miserable, but small enough that you wont be searching for a place to pitch it. Free standing is nice, but for me it's not a necessity, even with a free standing tent you're staking out the vestibule and guy lines.

Tarp - get a sil tarp, they're small, light, and perfect to cook under on those rainy mornings. You can also pitch the tarp in the rain, then pitch your tent under it.

Sleeping bags - I usually use down, I just keep it in a dry bag, in a dry hatch, and pitch my tent where it will stay dry. Look at the Big Agnes bags with the sleeve for a sleeping pad.

Sleeping pad - I love my Exped down air mattress, yes it's bigger than a thin thermarest but it's thick, warm, and oh so comfortable. IMHO it's worth the extra weight

Cook set - I use a GSI aluminum non stick set and an outback oven. Stainless steel is heavy and it will mess with your compass, titanium isn't worth the cost/weight savings. Oh yea even if it's Ti or aluminum keep it away from your compass.

Stove - for ease of use the canister stoves are hard to beat, for cost/weight savings as far as fuel white gas is hard to beat.

Water - water bags and one bottle, who wants drink from a bag?

Food - make it yourself and eat the same thing you eat at home, camping on an island miles from shore is not the place to experiment with a new diet!

Maybe we should be thinking about another camping workshop?

Hmmm, I always thought that SS was non-ferrous. Now I'll have to find a magnet & satisfy my curiosity.

Though I'm not a big camper, I have a few ideas

-When Nancy & I kayak camp we always use a 3 man tent. It is nice to have the extra room in case you get weathered in

-As to stoves, I use a compact butane stove, easy to use & no mess. Alcohol can actually be very dangerous since you can't see the flame. As for carrying alcohol in a thin water bottle, that could make quite a mess if it leaks.

-I carry a SS multi-pot cook set, a titanium tea pot & cup.

-Also a folding camp table.

This along w/ everything else that you need. I feel the beauty of kayak camping is you can 'even bring the kitchen sink'.

All of our 'luxuries', including group gear & food, fits in my Avocet (16') & Nancy's Vela (15'8")for 2-4 days of camping.

Just my 2 cents ($2.50 w/ the coming inflation)

Chuck

I just received a flyer from West Marine. They are offering a 15% discount & free shipping if you order on line on Thanks Giving Day.

Naturally I have no relationship w/ WM but hope that some in the club can save some $.

Thanks,

Chuck

My husband and I both have Garmins (I think my husband had used different models of garmin as well) and the PN-60. I truthfully am not up to speed with the gps yet so cannot talk intelligently about its features. For me the PN-60 is preferable because it is smaller and in color so I can see it better. He uses gps all the time for work, so he is more familiar with them. He much prefers the PN-60 as well but would be better able to discuss its pros and cons. I can give you his cell number if you want to call him some evening for more details. We have the delorme map subscription as well. My cell is 712-9319 if you want me to pass along his phone number. He would not mind. I work most evenings but try to have my phone with me mid to late mornings and early afternoons.

Cath Kimball

Cath, That sounds great, what is your area code.

Thanks, Chuck

Any experience with the PN 60 GPS?

Thanks,

Chuck

Yesterday in the heavy chop, I noticed a lot of water in the cockpit during my rest stops after every hour or so, probably 2 qts. No obvious defects in the neoprene portion. I suspect that water is sieving through the top nylon fabric. Any advice as to how to seal the nylon portion of the skirt? I'm thinking something like seam-sealer for a tent or tarp. Thanks-gary

Hi Gary, This sounds like a lot of water to suddenly start to leak through the tunnel of you spray skirt. I have seen some boats start to leak @ the seam between the cockpit coaming and the deck. This assumes it is a composite boat. Hope this helps. Chuck

Thanks everyone for the info.

Anyone else?

Is anyone paddling an Atlantic or Polar. I'd be interested to see a review. I've read the reviews @ paddling.net & know I need to paddle it...but I'm just curios.

Thanks,

Chuck

There may just be crystallized salt in the cable housing. The first thing I would do would be to run warm water through the skeg system to see if that frees the cable.

The end of the outer cable housing may have come loose @ the skeg box. As I remember for that boat Impex simply glassed the outer housing to the skeg box.

If you find that the hatches leak their could be 2 reasons (maybe more). The inside of the hatches were not smooth so did not seal well to the gasket. Sand them until they are smooth where the gasket touches the hatch. Another problem maybe that the gasket ends have separated from each other. They can be glued back together.

Great boat by the way...enjoy!

I think the M72 might be on sale @ West Marine.

All of the above are great suggestions.

We use the Neutrogena Spray-on sunscreen: 15-30SPF for me (I've had a squamous cell bump removed from my face) and 50SPF for the husband, who's the second whitest white boy in Gloucester.

The advantage to Neutrogena is that it dries very quickly and doesn't run. We also apply as often as needed and buy new at the start of every season.

Neutrogena has a new product called "Wet Skin" which can be applied to both dry and wet skin and, according to the blurb on the back, is water, sweat and humidity resistant. I've yet to use it but I'm hoping it lives up to the hype when I do.

Neutrogena is expensive although it does go on sale at both Target and CVS. Given the cost of skin cancer and the general discomfort of a sunburn, it's worth it.

We also wear hats and I usually will wear a long sleeved rash guard under my semi-dry short-sleeved top at the start of the season as an extra precaution as I've had a case or two of severe, itching sunburns .

If I use sun screen while still in my dry suit, I'm very careful to keep if off the gaskets as it can cause, or so I've been told, deterioration of the latex. Suz can no doubt back me up on this or give out more info.

It's also a good idea to use some sort of sunblock stick on your lips and the tops of your ears. I've gotten some very uncomfortable burns there that have lasted a few days and it's not fun.

Deb M

Ok, here is my 10 cents ($2.50 with the coming inflation). I'm a fair haired boy...so I burn easily. I have tried the expensive stuff & the cheap Walmart brands. No matter what the SPF, when I got back from paddling my wife would always say "you got burned today". I found some would run in my eyes & just about blind me (I taught a beginners class once with my eyes closed most of the time). I tried Coppertone Kids Pure & Simple SPF 50 ($8.95 @ Walmart). After a few paddles I realized I wasn't getting the old refrain. It has 14.5% Zinc Oxide, one of the 3 magic ingredients. It also does not bother my eyes. A lot of sunscreens have zinc or titanium, but a much small percentage. As for clothing I usually were a Columbia cap with a big bill & a drape and an NRS Hydrosilk L/S (SPF 30). For sunglasses I wear Natives which are polarized. Well there you have it.

We have 4 Valley boats -- 2 Pintails, an AvocetLV and an Avocet -- and have discovered the joys of the VCP hatchcover.

There is hope. I found liberally 303'ng the covers helps (something that we should have been doing at the get-go rather than waiting until the covers have dried out somewhat), but Suz's suggestion is a definite +.

I found nylon scrapers at Bed, Bath and Beyond but they don't appear to be quite as narrow as what Suz linked to. However, they do work, and cost about a buck a piece. Someone also suggested that we file down the edges of these scrapers as they are fairly sharp and could cut the rim of the cover.

As for the alternatives: I've heard pros and cons, the con being that the oval Sea Dog leak. VCP's, pain in the butt that they are, don't. The only thing that leaks when you use VCP covers are the naughty words coming out of your mouth as you try and pry the buggers off.

BTW, the day hatch on NDK boat is a VCP cover. I never had a problem with it nor did it leak. It's the big oval and rounds on Valley boats that seem to be giving people headaches.

Hope this helps.

Deb

I found the valley ovals relatively easy to get off if you start pulling at the bow or stern end of the hatch, not in the middle. I have a sea dog oval & it doesn't seem to leak.

This symposium is put on by Barrier Islands Kayaks in Swansboro, NC. It is always extremely well done, typically with small groups and is always a great time.

Here is the link Southern Outer Banks Sea Kayak Symposium

I have no financial interests in this, I'm just trying to get the word out.

Enjoy,

Chuck

UMIB's (urgent marine information broadcasts) get sent over ch. 16 all the time as securite ("say-cure-ee-tay") calls. Both warn of safety hazards.

Often they have to do with weather. We hear them locally all the time here in summer, usually as warnings of fast-moving thunderstorms spilling into Massachusetts and Ipswich Bays and Salem Sound when dry northwesterlies hit the humid shorelines to the west and southwest. We hear the warnings on the radio before we see the ugly sky.

Here's an impressive UMIB securite call. Listen all the way to the end and you'll hear a boater call the CG plane on 16 to ask for permission to use a waterway to duck in out of the weather:

http://www.associatedcontent.com/audio/24333/us_east_coast_hurricanes_coast_guard.html?cat=16

Keeping the VHF tuned to 16 during the summer in Massachusetts, especially the North and South Shores, is a good idea. You'll hear thunderstorm warnings all the time.

Hey, Adam, I can't seem to find your blog w/ all of the great info. As I remember you had a article on how to attach a vhf to a pfd shoulder strap, still available? Thanks,

Chuck

REI was great when some Thule J cradles rusted on us. The running joke is REI = return equipment indefinitely.

HI Liz,

If you want to get you boat a little lower & have an easier time of installing & removing your rack you might want to try Tules track system. You permanently attach the track to your roof. The corresponding feet (don't know the #s off the top of my head)with your existing bars simply snap onto the track. Push a button & they come off. Installing the tracks is not rocket science, but does take some mechanical skill (your drilling holes in your roof). So the only consideration is will this set up be tall enough so that the bottom of the Thule bar will be higher than you Saab bars. I have had this on my Odyssey for years, it is a great system.

For long portages, I use a portable yoke. Old Town makes some decent ones. I like the portable yokes because they're much more compact for stowage. I've gone on 2 miles portages with these yokes and they work pretty well. It also gives you a lot more options on terrain - you can't always guarantee a nice easy portage trail that will allow for tires.

As far as dolly - I don't know, however.

Hmm, seems my concern would be bearings as as apposed to sleeves or bushings on the hubs for a portage that long. My longest 'portage' is usually (100 yards)from the parking lot to the beach.