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A Swell Day


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Herded out into the 4-6 foot swells off Gunrock Beach in Hull by my paddling partner/evil trainer I managed to back paddle, surf and even handle breaking waves on the beam with high braces-just like in the book photos! An obligatory swim to the beach "you shouldn't surf in waves that you can't swim in from" wrapped up my day.

Another glorious fall day-Thank you Kokotat and Gortex!

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